glassgowkiss

check www.live-the-vision.com or www.gravsports.com. i just wrote what i saw personally or had first hand info from good sourse. they pretty much form every year, so my speculation would be they are in. but that's just my speculation. it's supposed to get quite cold there towards this weekend. avi conditions here http://www.avalanche.ca/weather/bulletins/index.html. looks like typical rockies snow suck. terminator should be ok.

nice pictures. looks like you guys enjoyed the same nice conditions we had on the mountain. australian colouir is the way to go to get off this peak. it was kind of cold when we did it and we were on the face quite early in the morning (we were on the top @10:45), so i don't think i took pictures while climbing. i think i have some summit shots. i should have some pictures next week.

more ice updates. terminator is down, looked like sea of vapors was forming. everything on mt dennis is in. guiness, stout, high test are rather thin, so they won't last late in the season. carlsberg is fat, so is kronkenburg. pilsner has 2 pillars touching down. masseys is in, but superbock and cool spring didn't form. a lot of mixed lines in mt stephen are in. silk tassel was formed. now mind snow conditions- when i saw these routes the avi danger was low. now with new snow most of these lines will be out. ghost formed up quite well. fist and a fang is in fat. again, a lot of these routes are early season and tthey won't last past a couple of chinooks.

i drove up to marble last monday and there was a lot of water running. it will take more then a couple of days to freeze all this run off. some mixed alpine might be in though. i think it's raining quite high up and by tomorrow the freezing level is supposed to drop down to 1000 and to 500 on sat. bring your warthogs and get ready to buy new picks.

horn lake, i'd like to go, but i have to be here on sun, so i can't. let me know for the next time. i want to go alpine this sat. btw, it might be pretty wet there after all the rain we had in the past few weeks, the place seeps like hell.

i have only this fri evening and sat free. want to go and do some mix/ alpine. anybody? no newbees pls. ciao- r

It's definetly not Green man- it's on the left side of the canyon, much closer to whiteman. our line is only 60 m up from rap station above approach step (about 300m from whiteman). it's called "Racially Motivated". Talked to a local guy, who knows most of the routes there and he thinks it's a new route. i should have a picture or two next week.

Kananaskis as usual- a lot of ice this year. besides the usual like R&D, Pararel Falls, Kidd falls, there is Sadamme Insane formed for the first time in many years. This route has a lot of character, but if it keeps snowing it will put it out of condition. Amadeus is in with M5 start. Whiteman is gushing water, Redmen soars has no ice (you can do it but it will be harder and scary). Did probably a new route up there. about 60 m upstream from the rapel on the right side of the canyon. take a full set of cams and stoppers + some kb's and spectre. About m5/6, all natural gear, about 55m length. There is an ow/chimney on the right side of the canyon, there is a large tree above on the ledge (rap from this tree)you start this route about 10 upstream from the line of the tree. Terminator touched down, replicant is formed up, so is La Goutte. go and nail it while they last. 10 years after is in, Borgeau right was climbed several times. Cascade is very thin. don't have info what's up north.

i was looking at the temps in lillooet and i think at least some routes should be in by this weekend. judging by the shape the climbs were last weekend they should be ready to climb, since temps drop down to -10C at night.

are they in? if they are go and do it- they are fun. now i don't think i made fa, after talking to jason and steve house. there are 2 gulies on the n/ne face. when i was there 3 years ago only one was formed. jason was asking about details. my memory is kind of hazy, since we were drinking till midnight and left town at5 am totally hung over. most of the route was fairly moderate, with one steep step, protected by stubbies. there are no good anchors on the top, so don't get on the final snowfield or you'll end up having epic like we did. one more note- when we did the route we saw a couple of pins with a red sling to our left. i think they might form a bit to the left or right. and the rock is total choss.

december or early jan. i am taking off on a trip this fri and then i am relocating to a new office space. there is going to be a clinic here in bellingham 1st week of december at "fooworx" store, right now i am working on the date. i will post it as soon as it's all set.

paco said yes it means exactly that. and the pitons were left in place for the following ascents.

thanks john. and thanks for all the slides. it was actually funny to meet you guys in person.

Gotta disagree with you on the "if it goes free then stop nailing it" bullshit. The Huber's among others who are free climbing the hard aid lines are using pitons to protect the routes. Some or all of the gear is pre placed. Read the article by Alex Huber in the recent AAj. He placed pins on his free climb of something in the Dolomites. Also, I think the Hubers used pins while free climbing Zodiac on El Cap. Just because a route goes free doesn't mean people shouldn't nail it. what's your point donkey? punching your clown too much and going blindd on us? free climbing and protecting a free climb are 2 things. first of all i call a complete bullshit your whole statement. they left all hte gear necesary to free climb in place. second look at el ninio, where they didn't place the bolt to protect 13c climbing, hence you'll take a 60 ft whipper on a knifebalde. can you do that. tell me laddy, how many days did you spend on elcap working on a free route? do you even know what does it mean to free a route. have you ever climbed anything remotely resembling 13a, b c or anything in that range? after spending several days on salathe i can tell you this: i would be really pissed if someone went and pouded pins on that route. as of june of last year it was a public knowledge that zodiak is a free route. you must be a complete moron to be oblivious to this fact. i just hope people will stop pouding pins on this one. there is plenty of stone left for nail-ups there. btw, do your reading carefully. they hand placed pins on bella-vista, hence wicked long falls on 14a pitch protected by A4 gear. so think before dissing someone fuckstick throat callus sloafer and clown puncher.

Yeah, I'm sure I'll meet ya. Never said I was gutsy. My slides will be more of the pretty picture variety, than the "this is the way coolest fucking climb that noone in this room is man enough to do besides me" variety... If nominating you for the aid climbing style police is gutsy then I am guilty. Later, dudes. Off to work. my point was about nailing on free climbs. it's like doctoring holds at the crag.

hey young skywalker....not everyone can be that fast and strong as i am

rudy, out of all people you'd know. in most of my responses i have to hold back not to unleash on fucking stupid bastads. i am showning up with some slides and i want to see as many of you shit talkers there. see if you can handle real spray. luke you can confirm my statement- poliszbob

No need to dredge that up again Dave. I feel Ricardo's pain... As for nominations...it's a toss up between Glassgowkiss and Necro. Or are they the same person? first let me respond to eric: read what's on the front of my helmet-"fuck you you fucking fuck" as for you ehmmic: read what's on the back-"show me your tits". but seriusly, i don't give the rats fuck if people clean aid or nail the routes. but once it goes free stay the fuck away with the hammer and pitons. as i said, i didn't even read dicklands pantsy-ass wine about the climb. but looking back at it he deserves the same bitch- slapping as the other guy. darin, i somewhat agree with your statements, but.... i think it is lame when people go and nail free climbs. in 96 i witnessed 2 texans bashing pins on glowering spot pitch, because they thought hanging on a couple of rp's was too much for their fat asses. their argument was that the nose had only 1 free ascent.... and ehmmic, see you tonight and i'll see if you are so gutsy in person, as it is very easy to pop shit from behind the computer

ricardo, you are not scoring browny points with me with this one. the point is that the route was freed in general as of last spring, that is every move went free as of june of this year. it was a public knowledge. so in general i am against nailing on established routes. will dickland (as i said earlier) is on my shitlist for some of the stupid spray he did last year or so. i say booty is yours. but stay off freed routes with pin and hammer. as for supertopos- things change and in my book chris is not some expert of free climbing walls. if you want to nail, there is plenty of rock left for you out there. as far as hubers and their pins- well they left them in place, so what is your point? usually you need to fix some pro to free climb a route like this. you are comparing apples and sandpaper here. ands as far as your cat fight with dickland- whatever....

why don't you go and do some alpine up in bc? neve is exeptional right now. as far as ice rambles looked climbable so did 1st pitch of loose lady, but it's kind of long ways to drive just for that. other wise rockies son. kananaskis and ghost have a lot of stuff formed up for now. check www.gravsports.com and go to ice pages

yea rudy, you are right. both of these guys are just biatches, dickland left the gear and the booty belongs to the other guy. i still stand by my point about pins on clean pitches (supertopos might have called for pins on different pitches, would have to check) and i've been trying to tell you guys all day yesterday that no one is as strong or fast as i am

now this is the funniest line i have read all day here

rudy, normaly i don't give a flying fuck and will dickland is not on the top of my list of characters. but this guy went and posted this crap on his own, so i even didn't read exactly what dickland was writing about. in 96 i passed a party on the nose and a fucking moron was nailing a pitch to glowering spot. these guys had fitness level of a greyhound bus drivers and looked more like a boat anchor then even an aid climber (how stupid that can sound). anyhow simon and i did give these guys a load of shit and told them we are going to send a welcome party made out of local guys who after a few beers were ready to kick the living shit out the climbrons (climber+moron=climbron). look at smith and white wedding. after joe brooks and dale goddard were done projecting this route a new hold showed up in the middle of the crux. how lame is that? people must realize, that pounding pitons on clean routes or free routes is like taking a hammer and a chisle and bashing out a new hold. there is several routes on elcap, which go with pitons, so if a fuckstick shitbag wants to pound pins he can.

yeah, that should be the fuckwad's ascent of zodiak. i think with so many new and lame ass loosers around these climbs will get chopped out to the point i can climb them too.