glassgowkiss

looks like the last pitch of loose lady, exept much easier. i have a pre-requisite for alpine climbing- good memory, but short....fucking old age

aaa loose lady. how much snow is above you do you know?and did you actually climb it?

the only ski are in the us where it is for real. so stfu and don't spray about this place, so it doesn't get overrun by wankers

what's your point? now before you get you panties in a wad stop for a second and THINK. are you leading climber? are you a writer? are your pictures professional quality? if not wtf are you complaining about? just drink a few and chill

you know: their state motto is 'like no place on earth' it should say high boots on full moon.... keep your velcro gloves handy. baaaaaaaaaa.

"unlike wyoming jogurt has culture"

are you insane??? terminator, the classiest and the best ice route in the world. anything on stanley glacier headwall, like nightmare or french.

dear ego, maybe if you put up some sicko alpine line, then they will contact you. just for a record- imagine every sizzle chest beating nibble nut trying to send them unsolicited stuff??!! it would turn into cc.com . this is a very good publication, with fantastic pictures and text to match. noticed minimum add space? tha's why i stopped reading climbing and r&i. if i want to read gear catalog i can get one for free from manufacturer. the quality of pictures and the text in these 2 publications are so lame it makes me want to puke. my advice to you fame seaking friend is to go, climb some sicko routes, make a name for yourself and then i am sure you'll be receiving phone call from the man himself.

so many sheep so little time, get some velcro gloves

mr randon, or should i say mr random fucking complainer- do you need a tissue? or the other question is what is your point? being an educated man you forget about something. while you stand on comfy footholds reaching for the next hold we short people have to lock it off at the waist. and keeping your weight down is just a matter of self discipline, diet and A LOT OF TRAINING. so suck it up you puff

not really danger, just hassle. a joy of power to burn.... anyway buttcracked, i told in my initial post not to get your panties in a wad.me old- i speak, you young- you listen

buttcracked- you missed the point. it doesn't matter how good your intentions are. it's not good enough to yell "ROPE" and drop the thing. guy went up to set tr and in the meantime i was climbing on the route. his partner was standing and was bullshiting with some chick. so the guy above just shouted rope and with 2x60m mess rocks and sticks flew down straight onto my head.

ok, so that's a good question, how much power?. this is the answer. muscles contarct on principle- all or nothing. so your nervous system adjusts the number of fibers used during the contraction (ecentric or concentric, muscle is getting longer or shorter). now- during action of the muscle some fibers get torn. that's why when you train you gain "bulk". it doesn't mean you have more cells, but the walls of the cells get thicker. There are cells called fibroblasts, which repair damaged tissue. this is why you get sore a day after the excercise, it's not lactic acid, but torn tissue. muscle while contracting is recycling through the fibers. more power needed, more fibers contracted all at one. there are 2 main sets of cells: golgy tendon organ and muscle spindle fibers. golgy organ measures a load onto musculo-tendenous junction, so your muscles don't get ripped off bone. muscle spindles measure how fast your muscle contracts/expends. both of these cell types can shut down action of the muscle to prevent injury. so next time you hang onto a crimper and you watch your fingers open up (regardless how hard you try) it's a golgy tendon organ of your forearm flexors preventing injury- ie is turning your flexors off. to answer the question how much power? farther away you are from your limmit, less of a chance of situation described above.

wtf are you talking about? do you even know that you have slow and fast twitch fibers. slow twitch are endurance tissue and fast twitch are power. you need both. so doing high load low volume format is as important as lower resistance and high volume one. and here is a kicker- women have generally more slow twich fibers then men, so it is harder for them to do high power things. and pull up is a perfect weight to strength ratio excercise. just because you weigh 200 lbs doesn't mean you are in good shape. it means in climbing that your fingers will have to hold 200 lbs on the rock. your fingers will be the weakest link, always and regardless how much you weigh.

simple, dogs are not too aware what's above them. people are wering crampons, so what lambone is talking about happens often enough. plus i am agains dogs in climbing areas period. everyone's dog is the coolest animal by itself, get them into a group.... just look at smith on busy weekend. they get into pack for food, shit, beg when you eat....all sort of crap.

i agree with you, but in the recent couple of years i am more afraid on ice climbing weekend in lilloet then on alpine routes. i don't know if the iq of average throat callus soafer went down or what, but that's my take on things. i just think if people used their brains more and worry about their egos less it would be much nicer to go climbing to popular areas. btw with my new stickers on my helmet like fuck you you fucking fuck, porn star and show me your tits i made a lot of friends last sunday at grotto. now if someone can find me another sticker "smoke crack and warship satan" - that would be great

by paying for motel, beer and pizza for more experienced compadre. like old skool....

years ago it used to be different (now i sound like an old fart, which i am). fewer people going climbing, simple. so this topic is dedicated to newbies and half brain morons out there, so read carefully. the point of ice climbing is to get up on climbs not to bring them down. with modern tools you don't need to send a bunch of ice down, just swing gently, on popular climbs use hooks. if you peel a plate, please clean it!! fractured ice is so suck to climb on for the next party. don't throw a rope for tr, unless you are 100% sure nobody is on the climb leading. last year some dolt moron went to set a tr on deeping wall and dropped two 60m ropes on my head, while i was leading , not kool. don't bring dogs to ice climbing area- they just don't belong there. don't start climbing under another party, unless you are willing to take some ice chunks onto your helmet and shoulders. get up earlier, go do something else. but also don't sneak by another party, so you can get ahead.

well put Don. i would like to add a couple of points. don't drop a rope for tr unless you 100% know that there isn't a party LEADING (next time anyone drops a rope on my head again i will kill the fucker in cold blood, drag his body onto galeon pole and leave it as a warning for the next generation ) second point- leave your fucking dog at home. dogs are cool, but not at the ice climbing area. third- if you have a tr up and someone wants to lead your line- sorry- you must yeld. this is standard practice, so don't get you fucking panties bunched up in a wad. just move your rope to the side and watch, maybe you'll learn something

i know a couple of people who went in banf to the film fest. year after year it's getting worst. a friend of my told me this year he was there for 2 days and there wasn't anything worth his time and money he spent. so the review for this year was save your cash, drink

i agree- without guns you are nothing but jack shit and jack just left town. technique doesn't mean fuck all. have to be able to lock off. fucking fat wankers everywhere.

since you are flying into calgary ghost is a good place to go. take a snow shovel with you and chains. when you drive to the north ghost don't follow the road or you'll get stuck in the drifts. instead turn left at the bottom of big hill, go to a dyke and follow the dyke till the little log bridge. a couple of river crossings and you'll be under gbu. also other routes to consider there: fist and a fang candle stick maker (don't know if it is in this year) anorexia nervosa & weathering hights you could solo this house of sky the first day and climb on gbu, go to fist and a fang the next and then try something else if you have any juice left. Valley of the birds has some fantastic climbing. don't underestiamte the eagle- it can be pretty hard for the grade. as far as other routes- don't go under any snow slopes till you figure out snow conditions and avi hazard. one thing i have learned about the rockies. i don't make plans, since they never pan out. i just go there, see what i can get on and climb. going to the ghost for 3 days is kind of miserable right now. you'll have to stay in a tent or your car for 14 hours a day, can't dry out. re polar circus. it's not the big slope above you have to worry about. it's the traverse across, half way up the route (pencill by-pass). that slope gets loeaded with spindrift and can avalanche out. you can also do mixed master. watch out for a snow slope leading to the last pitch, it did slide before. weeping wall is safe so is murchinson falls. also consider getting on some mixed climbs there. grotto falls are has 0 avi hazard. there are 3 or 4 mixed bolted lines there, plus 3 ice lines, so you can spend all day there. and get ready to get spanked, it will be a good test of your real climbing abilities.

even if its't in it must be past it's prime. many routes are getting effected by the sun, so you might end up climbing detached thin shield. plus the avi danger is high for alpine right now and the slope above and on the way in is sooooooooo big...... just thinking about it makes me want to take another dump...

i couldn't find any info on tyax air. anybody knows their number? what about heli ride from lake williams? any info on that? thanks- r