glassgowkiss

yes almost every day. check your pm's and call me.

yes RBW most likely TOS (thoracic Outlet Syndrome).

for pt's Sherryl Betty @ B-ham phys. therapy in seahome village. as for acupuncture Ashley Goddard @ Nine Acupuncture, Michelle Siemion would be a good choice. For chiro Erin Simpson @ Back in Motion or Lyndon Keeler (his ph# is 360.715.9010)

Alex, i did send this to your web page right now. a couple of smaller notes. first of all i think areas like Colonial peak or Pyramid are the best with as little snow as possible- hence they are rather early season routes. I would like to see some of them repeated more often. personally i don't think any of them are that hard and any climber who is proficient with WI4/5 can climb these things without any problems. under right conditions they can be fun, moderate and good training routes for bigger ranges.

aaaa, that was you guys who were knocking shit off from angels crest onto the trail on monday.

the name was published and the point is misprinted. same withe the N. face instead of east.

partner found

have unexpected time off mon- thursday morning. want to go climbing. no newbees please. call 360.319.7311

Climb: WA ice guide misinfo- Date of Climb: 7/21/2004 Trip Report: hey, yes i am slow and just opened up wa state ice guide. i would like to get a couple of things straight, as i think they are quite important facts. Pyramid peak- the name of the route is "It ain't over motherfuckers". second the route is on east face not on north face - see the picture. also before you go and traverse the ramp for two pitches you must climb a nasty little section of WI3. as far as the route on Colflax, i think the rating is off. the route should be more like WI4/4+, not 5/5+. the pro was kind of sucky, but in my opinion technical rating should not reflect seriuosness.

chuck, fun climb. but... i would be a bit more conservative with wording. 5.10 with bomb-proof pro isn't all that intense or bad-ass. note on the crux pitch you can stem between 2 crack (on the wide section) almost all the way to the ledge, hence avoid off-with climbing all together. there is a bolt rigth before this section, so there isn't really any need for #4 or 4.5 camalot. 3.5 will be enough. fun route though. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=2860&password=&sort=1&cat=998&page=1

cams sold, tools not yet

i don't like cats that much, but this cat rules!

i have a few items for sale or trade. 1. two metolius tcu's #1 for trade for metolius cam #5 (or $20 each) 2. DMM fly (with adze) and simond chacal for trade for one black prophet or $100 for both. email me: crazypolishbob at yaho o dot com. i live in b-ham area SOLD (at least looks like that)

snow conditions suck ass. this year the weather is complete shit. good luck

depends what u want to climb. for the nw face rotes cerise is the only way to go. also for the descent australian gully is the ticket

maybe something longer, but easy like grand wall (squamish for sure) if the weather is iffy routes on nightmare rock

looking for a partner for this tuesday.

rudy, to answer your question. go to index and get on some 5.9's. as far as milti- pitch routes get on stuff at wa pass or snow creek wall. so if the route has 11b rating i would expect to get a little workout. did hyperspace 2 weeks ago, guess what? u actually have to climb on 9's and 10's. to finish my answer- if it was rated as 5.7 with short 10b sectioon- yest it would be a good route, if the rating is like it is - a complete let- down.

Because this is Bob and this is what he does. Same hashed over argument, different day. Bob why are you climbing such an easy route? For someone who is clearly such a gifted bad ass climber, who spends so much of his free time telling us how much we all suck you really shouldn't be wasting your time on such a trivial easy route. Can I have your autograph now? as u might notice grades should give u an idea how hard the route is. so thanks for wasting my time. when i go on something like ultimate nothing and the topo says several 5.9 pitches i would expect the route to put up a bit of fight. and don't give me this shitty argument that just because someone puts an effort to bolt some choss heap they have thwe same right to inflate the grade. . like i said- that route is out of control. and if i knew how hard this thing was in reality i would never bother going there last afternoon as at this point the training value of this thing was zilch

i was posting on the topic of easy grades at squamish, but ultimate everything is just out of control. i think fa party had to be completly stoned out of their friggn' minds to rate this thing like that. it's a 5.7 with a 5.9 or 10b finish. the route is nice, i don't dispute the fact. but for crying out loud stop this stupidity. if we use this system godzilla should be 11b, since it's much harder then any pitch on this route. that puts slow children into 12a category pathetic

might be it band, might not. that you have the symptoms in the area doesn't mean you have the cause there. someone should check for your hip mechanics. also collapse arch might cause such thing. ice massage the area, but i bet you'll need some work with your gluts (btw, glut max is where it originates), iliopsoas and deep hip rotators. also you strength relationship between quads and hamstrings as well you adductors might be off. ibo is going to just mask the symptoms and will do nothing for the recovery. if you don't correct the cause of the problem you'll slide back to the injury.

as usual this is deteriorating down to silly shit. i'd like to add that climbing hard has to do more with attitude, motivation and ability to accept failure. in order for a climber to progess one must get on things that will push you and push you hard. let's say your max is 10c. getting on a bunch of 10's will not make you climb 11's. imo you have to get on things above your ability and get spanked. hence sport climbing and bouldering will be a safe alternative to do so. if you think 10's are hard, then you'll make them hard- it's about attitude

i like index. keeps u honest. again and again. the point wasn't that squish ratings are rather on soft side. the point was that a 10c ckack/trad route is not harder then let's say 11 sport. if you get on tr on these things the rating drops. and it's not so much the case with bolted routes, where the lead vs tr is not as noticable. and i know that it is a general statement and you can find many different situations. ok back to work- i am finished bitching.

DFA nailed this thing. of course you'll be talking about the routes that stand out in your memory- which is routes that challange you the most. so if your limmit is 10+ or 11 or 12 or 13 or 14 you'll be talking about them. as the matter of fact the biggest spray-lord i have ever met are wanna-be-climbers-real-life-wankers, who totally lack the discipline to train. i do belive that if you are resonably fit and have proper body fat ratio (which in this country would be only like 30-40%) then with proper training regime could climb 12's (trad or sport) within a year or two. but the topic driffted. the question is- is 10 a moderate grade. yes it is and a lot of people don't want to see it this way. as the matter of fact late 80's and 90's past this area in the alpine too.

don't u fuckers ever work? dru, where in the hell did i say i tr'd 13 in squish? to be specific the routes i was reffering to were daily planet and sentry box, which i would have hard time calling 12a. as the matter of fact both these riggs on tr feel more like mid 11's. there are some routes that go the other way, like astronomy.in any case, the point of my rant was: a 5.11 is 5.11, 12 is 12 13 is 13 sport or trad. basically grades are based on how much effort is used to climb to the anchor without falling/ hanging on gear/ other puff trickery. the difference might be in the type of terrain these routes cover (hence sportos have hard time climbing a crack at first and vice versa tradster crimping nobbins at smith). placing pro is calculated into these climbs, so if they did get bolted they would most likely drop a few letter grades in their rating. the other reason i did write this is because i am getting fed up with horseturd at the crags, it's like a bad weed and spreading. fuckers all over the place and no place to hide from them. ps. hey dru- you are a nice guy and know A LOT about climbing in this area. but on the other hand you talk a lot of shit like you did these routes. i think there is a big differance between knowing them and doing them....that's all.