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Everything posted by skyclimb

  1. CBR- chimney pitch Backbone ridge-standard O/W pitch, and then the 7" offwidth higher up and off route on the fin... N. Ridge on stuart White satin-first pitch....not to nice of a pitch Anyone done Last Gasp at smith
  2. I was there on Saturday... We did Alpental #2,3,4...#2 was very thin, I took a nice long shower in a few spots, breaking through curtains, pounding pins into ice....it was fun mixed climbing..see pic in gallery. The other two routes were cruiser, and although thin and wet, they had solid pro and fun climbing. We drove all the way to Washington to do Chair North Face, but avy danger even last saturday seemed to high to risk Narada falls at Mt. Rainier was close to being in, and pillars are touching down... but it was still to thin to be safe. So we went and did the castle on sunday, which was a nice, and fun relaxing ski with a stimulating mixed pitch at the top! probably would have been safer if we used a rope... Hope this helps
  3. I agree, that comet falls would be fricken sick, and sure enough, in the WA ice guide, it appears that Comet was climbed in the 70's. Narada falls is touching down now. Multinomah would great as well. And of course, Angel falls will be great when hell freezes over...
  4. Nice! Did you meet a guy sharpening ice axes and poons' tonight in the ORC?
  5. Nice job getting out and doing something a little more obscure.
  6. Nice pics Pax and MisterE, sorry I didn't hook up with you guys, but the trip was freakin' killer. Got on a lot of cool routes, but the best was some random crack in the wonderland area on the way to mental physics and dazed and confused(lenticular dome?).... I think the route was shovel and trough, but it seemed way to good to have no stars? Anyways, what a great trip, glad yours rocked as well!
  7. There is 1' of freshies at mountaineer creek TH- saw a group of 4 on their way up to ski colchuck glacier. Should be skinable very soon. Ice up in the colchuck lake basin was coming in nicely, as was TC's. The lake is frozen over. Hope this helps anyone planning to go get some this weekend Oh, and it was windy, so the rock ridges are clean And the bivies under the boulders are bomber right now just watch out for the face eating snaffles. Have a Merry White Christmas
  8. I have never personally skiied it, but others I know have and they seem to go back every year. You should probably send iain the ski yuppie a PM.
  9. Laterz whirlly bird have a good trip, shoot me a PM with your #, I will be down in J-Tree shortly.
  10. Right on! Thanks for the info. Looks like Snow Creek will be our best bet, I'll post a TR when we return.
  11. Looks like an interesting book you have there. A good article is the story of Kor and gang bangin' out the F.A. on the titan in the November 1962 issue of Geographic. Many of the stories in the AAJ's from over the years are really inspiring as well. South Buttress on Denali-like 1967, with some pretty technical stuff up high The Best Book: Stories: Climb! a history of colorado climbing. Informative: The bible A.K.A. Freedom of the Hillz Scary: touching the void Inspiring: Annapurna
  12. Hey everyone, What are the conditions like right now in the icicle canyon, snow creek trail, enchantments, road to mountaineers creek...etc. Thanks for the info.
  13. Realized what the "new testament" crack was about Friday. and that the friction was bomber good. Right about 40 degrees, nothin better Everyone I climbed with Friday progressed and pushed themselves, which was awesome
  14. skyclimb


    Shit, I pull 5.2 maybe 5.3 when I am lucky... and it is always atleast A0.... Cheers to the A5 send mike, you da man Musta been a real mind-bender
  15. 20 million in a fawking squid...it is an interesting variation to the trojan horse
  16. Yeah, it was some pretty intense shit for sure. Somehow we both pulled through, even without the nose plugs that have become mandatory for climbing UNDER THE BRIDGE.... thanks for the education T, a few more poundings, and you might get the FFA on the Log Jam
  17. Nice pic, dave...thats a ripper for sure Chilled at smith, work on the the "circuit" in the supies friday, west face var. on the monkey and doing the rap in the dark saturday, spiderman in a 70 m enduro pitch-yes it is possible on sunday...but the best part of it all was partying with corvallisclimb, fern, mtnhigh, dru... and all sorts of crazy mofo's Smith
  18. Have a good trip, Climb Hard! If you need a partner who is fun, and experienced Thadsboner on the board is also located in SLC...
  19. Pole Creek is completly snow-free at the TH right now. It should be at least a few miles before snow is encountered.
  20. michael_layton, I will be at the SMith Rock State Park on saturday. I am looking for a climbing partner who drinks, smokes, and curses incessantly. Who doesn't understand the value in STICK CLIPPING, and sports a PBR in the chalk bag. A partner who knows the meaning of "Good Friction", and who doesn't mind climbing rock when it is covered in ice. If you like Pulling tough.... Getting caught in the pain.... then I'm the psycho you wised for... so come with me and go insane
  21. There are many options to "beat" the weather in March. The cascades stretch from northern cali to northern washington....often times there is a weather window somewhere...furthermore, mountains like shasta have cool ridges that often times can have low avy danger. Depending on your skill look into casaval(comparable to southside on hood, but longer and a little steeper), and Sargents ridge which is comparable to sandy headwall..steep ice, knife edged ridges, and rock....but not as much objective danger. To the north you have baker and rainier....gib. ledges can be a great climb, as can the ingrahm direct. Sisters in central oregon can sometimes be a good escape, with callenging routes that usually only form in the right conditions...pretty remote feeling... And then of course if you can't get your alpine fix, bring your BIG WALL rack for smith rock....listen to sounds of the carribean, drink mia-tai's, sit in a lounge chair and soak up the sun in one of America's premier climbing destinations There aren't many times in the Cascades when you can't climb..but be flexible, and renew your sense of adventure
  22. I can see it now..." The titan, one of the highest desert spires has be ascended via ice. Due to snowmelt from the summit, and freezing temperatures at night...the sundevil chimney has filled with ice allowing solid protection, and straight foreword climbing techniques unrepresentative of the fisher towers area..." WAKE UP You wish Maybe in the next dream
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