skyclimb

YEAH! and watch out for the cow poo when you pass out, that SHIT sucks

Thanks for the correction bill, that is one hell of a story. Obviously mister Wiggins thought it was a scenic cruise. The point: everyone has their own threshold and opinion on what is socially tolerable. With the increase in population and our sport, we will continue to face social overcrowding problems such as: NOISE VIOLATIONS, and INVASION OF SPACE. Our biggest concern should be addressing these issues correctly so we don't negatively effect management practices over the resources we love. Both of these recent incidents at Smith seem to show exceptional patients on the part of the afflicted. to handeling the situation for all our benifit to Earl Wiggins going where others had never been before....even if it wasn't training

Great job! That is some serious stamina to pull backbone with a pack and then go and cruise prussik the next day.

Didn't Ed Webster free solo the scenic cruise in 1979 so basically he wan't training, because he didn't place gear or carry a #11 hex Actually, maybe he did carry a #11 hex so he could bludgeon people as he passed just for shits and grins. ahh, good

Isn't the scenic cruise a grade V 5.10 in the black canyon of the gunnison You wanna be off that thing before dark you better be moving fast, kind of ironic however, because the black canyon isn't alpine, it is a canyon. So where does this leave us

For craggin at the supercrack buttress also add gorrillas in the mist, fingers in a light sockett, a reasonable O/W just left of the wave(good and reasonable) and 3 a.m. crack. 3 a.m. crack is the finest hand jamming session I have ever experienced. Flakes of wrath(9+) and bad moki roof are the musts on wall street near moab. For towers, do anything that looks good. Arches is very windy during and after storms, so it dry's very quickly. Fisher towers area, and canyonlands are good to escape the weather depending on the system. 3 A.M. crack will make your hands feel like axes as you slam them into the crack like a machine for 100 feet dr. david bloom has a very comprehensive guide book, also referenced elsewhere in the rock climbing forum I believe. Pray to the weather gods, have a good trip

I was out there this weekend, and I heard no extremely loud noise either night. It was unseasonably bare, but to that. You probably caught the brunt of their mounting frustration when they realized that 5.6 is harder than they thought. I would be pissed too If I traveled all the way to eastern oregon and couldn't do a single climb.

Managed 5 towers in between torrential rainstorms every night. Epic'd twice after dark. Managed roughly 3000 vert. in 5 days.... Cost= siting next to a pedephile for a 26 hour bus ride

stop quoting lines from Alpinist, that is bad form, you stupid retard. I am the smartest coolest person in the world, and only I am allowed to quote shit from magazines and tell people how they should climb, cause I am the king of the fucking world. POSEURS

web page goodbye

Pax is just being modest.... He wanted to do the route car to car and shit, but we figured that carrying sleeping bags and a broken stove and shit was good training for our legs bro. So we hiked up to the lake super fast, and tried to break a sweat. The rats eating at our faces all night was also super stokearific cause it was good training to grow back skin on our faces. We would have slept at the base in the rain on our way out, cause we had no food or bivy sacks, and that shit is good training being really cold and hypothermic and shit, but Pax had a hot date with a golden retreiver in Leavenworth, and I had a manicure appointment with my hairdresser. Easiest shit I ever done in my life.... yours truely, bro bra

Who the fuck do you think you are Micheal_Layton. You come onto this innocent climbing board, and give these outlandishly lavishly cut little trip reports that are way above my head. You should stop writing TR's because I suck, and am jealous, and i feel inferior because I am unhappy. FUCK THE NAY SAYERS, SERIOUS BULLSHIT. "Fuck this noise I am going climbing" Maybe it is good karma or something, cause now you always have the personal anguish stoke to fall back on when you epic on DarkStar Life is Good, give lots of blood for the team in Cali.

KY usually works for me, as long as the lobes aren't to gunked up. If thats the case, giving them a bath usually works just fine. just my 2 cents

It began on a weekday morning, watching the fall rain melt away my hopes for an indian summer. Something had to be done......

Great pics and TR Pax! This is without question one of the top 5 funnest climbs I have done. The rock was great, the exposure was good, the climbing was varied, routefinding was a bitch, and commitment was high. The off-width was actually quite fun, and very secure for a wide crack, but it was nice to have the 5" to walk up. Like Pax said, the crux was improvising and figuring out a route through the fin with a storm appoaching. Thanks for the climb Pax

Sounds like a messy wet dream... Nice work

Check PM's

Another very worthy alternative would be to fix stations with tat in the gully off the back side, enabling a "walk off". This way two ropes wouldn't be needed, and stuck ropes wouldn't be an issue.

Climb: Colchuck Balanced Rock-West Face Date of Climb: 8/30/2004 Trip Report: The END- In a tight spot I belayed Mike across the floor and under the roof as he made a viscious mantel. It was truely spectacular as he hoisted himself up to the bar for one more round. Although the bartender looked doubtful, and the patrons looked disgusted, Mike was able to regain his composure for 1 more drink, completing the henious lead. This was followed by our filming of a late night irish spring commercial in the waterfall at the local put-putt course in town. The Start- 6:00 a.m. -We departed the car to do colchuck balanced rock -west face. Mike and I made quick time to the lake, and then the base of the route arriving at 10:00. The approach we took is via the assgard pass trail. We cut across to the approach gully approx. 300 feet up assgard pass. From here bushwacking and scrambling ensued as we made our way up the boulder strewn approach gully. At the base of the wall, shown here, we sorted our gear and departed for the climb. By 11:00 I was on lead, doing a 5.8 pitch and a 5.7 pitch. We decided to split the route into blocks with me leading the first half(except the 5.10+), and Mike leading the second half. The 5.8 first pitch had a nice belay as did the 5.7 pitch. Mike then took the lead for a short 5.10+ off-finger sized crack, that was powerful. From here another 5.7 pitch followed with a chimney. The chimney leads to a belay on top of a pillar. There is no place for gear here except a shitty nut, so be prepared to sling the pillar with the excess rope for the belay. This lead was followed by a stellar 5.9 crack system for 130 feet, ending with two roofs of moss. The crack system was very dirty for the first 40 feet or so, forcing me to do some gardening to get finger locks. This led to another 50 feet of double cracks that were very enjoyable. The belay at the top of this pitch was good as well. This took me into the next lead which was a short 5.7 leading to a tree ledge at the start of the steep 5.11 corner. This was the first half of the route, and the easier half. We enjoyed a redbull, and some pizza as we admired the north ridge of stuart. Now begins the business, three pitches of very technical climbing. With Mike on lead things were flowing nicely, as he made steady progress up the crazy hand crack. He jamed out the whole crack, but had to resort to aid for the last 15 feet as it was seeping water. The belay here was spectacular, and very solid. The belay is capped by a 30 foot roof, that is MASSIVE. It is a very unique position, that is second to none for belay stances. Mike then began the next lead moving out left under the roof, with precision foot work(5.11), and quickly had me on belay. This lead was very technical, because the crack would close off and then open back up requiring face climbing. Mike had me on belay, at which point I began the traverse. A short time later I took a 20 foot pendulum fall, that resulted with a hang in space 600 feet off the deck! I set up a prussik, and regained the next piece(probably easier then climbing the damn thing). From here I reached the belay without further adrenaline surges. Mike on the 5.9, beautiful arching corner, capped by the A1 roof. This pitch was stellar and the aid wasn't too intricate due to a fixed nut at the lip of the roof. The aid was probably harder here to follow than to lead. Now for the last HARD pitch. This pitch is something neither Mike or I will forget, because of its difficulty and exposure. It was awe inspiring to watch as Mike laid back until inverted and then threw his right leg into the chimney knee bar fashion. This move resulted in a upside down view of the ground, with nothing but air below. This chimney was followed by another chimney of equal difficulty. From here one more 250 foot 5.7 simul-climb took us to the summit as the sun sank into the mountains and the west. We made one rappel and decended scree to the packs. On our exit we ran into many friends camped at the lake both preparing for and winding down from their own adventures. The hike out, also know as the "assgard death march" was consumed by scary anaconda's and flying white birds under the full moon. Pizza and beer ENDED with me belaying Mike across that bar, and showers at the local put-putt. 19 hours car-to-car Pics-(disregard dates as all were taken on 8/30)

Routes are very meandering right now... yesterday cloud deck was at 8,000 feet... previous 4 days the park saw about 10 inches of rain I would expect upwards of a foot on the upper mountain, with as much as 3 feet due to all the rain and precipe in the last week.

Gonna be Great Pullin tuff

Partner found

I am looking for a partner to do some alpine rock.... Dragontail-backbone ridge....or something else fun and worthwhile Could also be persuaded to hit index or wa pass. Send me a PM.

Interesting about the history of the colorado springs area climbing scene....a great book is Climb! the new edition. It has great stories about the underground atmosphere of climbing around the springs area. For a long time the sole climbing shope in town recorded all the FA's, and basically was the guidebook for the area. not much has changed about that atmosphere through-out the decades.