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Everything posted by skyclimb

  1. weekend, It was great to see old and new faces and drink maybe one of the finest brews this lands has seen, to the triple. to smith for another great trip, and to CC'ers for keepin' it rockin Thanks
  2. I could use a .5-#4 bd cams, and aliens from blue to red. Let me know what you got whirly-bird. Sorry I missed you at the love fest, what a sweet party. Drop a line, let me know. Nick
  3. I'll be out there tonight, Climbing in the gorge tomorrow, ready to and do some serious partying Whose bringing the TWISTED SISTER
  4. SLC is AMAZING. In my opinion there is NO comparison in climbing between SLC area and boise area. Within 1 hour of SLC you have tons of granite, quartzite, limestone and other types of rock, plus towers, tetons, wind-rivers, rockies close. HOWEVER, after living in Utah for a year and a half, and dealing with the mormon cult bullshit, boise would be my choice for ease of living hands down.
  5. NICE Good to see you've been getting out and getting er done Mark
  6. YEAH! and watch out for the cow poo when you pass out, that SHIT sucks
  7. Thanks for the correction bill, that is one hell of a story. Obviously mister Wiggins thought it was a scenic cruise. The point: everyone has their own threshold and opinion on what is socially tolerable. With the increase in population and our sport, we will continue to face social overcrowding problems such as: NOISE VIOLATIONS, and INVASION OF SPACE. Our biggest concern should be addressing these issues correctly so we don't negatively effect management practices over the resources we love. Both of these recent incidents at Smith seem to show exceptional patients on the part of the afflicted. to handeling the situation for all our benifit to Earl Wiggins going where others had never been before....even if it wasn't training
  8. Great job! That is some serious stamina to pull backbone with a pack and then go and cruise prussik the next day.
  9. Didn't Ed Webster free solo the scenic cruise in 1979 so basically he wan't training, because he didn't place gear or carry a #11 hex Actually, maybe he did carry a #11 hex so he could bludgeon people as he passed just for shits and grins. ahh, good
  10. Isn't the scenic cruise a grade V 5.10 in the black canyon of the gunnison You wanna be off that thing before dark you better be moving fast, kind of ironic however, because the black canyon isn't alpine, it is a canyon. So where does this leave us
  11. For craggin at the supercrack buttress also add gorrillas in the mist, fingers in a light sockett, a reasonable O/W just left of the wave(good and reasonable) and 3 a.m. crack. 3 a.m. crack is the finest hand jamming session I have ever experienced. Flakes of wrath(9+) and bad moki roof are the musts on wall street near moab. For towers, do anything that looks good. Arches is very windy during and after storms, so it dry's very quickly. Fisher towers area, and canyonlands are good to escape the weather depending on the system. 3 A.M. crack will make your hands feel like axes as you slam them into the crack like a machine for 100 feet dr. david bloom has a very comprehensive guide book, also referenced elsewhere in the rock climbing forum I believe. Pray to the weather gods, have a good trip
  12. I was out there this weekend, and I heard no extremely loud noise either night. It was unseasonably bare, but to that. You probably caught the brunt of their mounting frustration when they realized that 5.6 is harder than they thought. I would be pissed too If I traveled all the way to eastern oregon and couldn't do a single climb.
  13. Managed 5 towers in between torrential rainstorms every night. Epic'd twice after dark. Managed roughly 3000 vert. in 5 days.... Cost= siting next to a pedephile for a 26 hour bus ride
  14. stop quoting lines from Alpinist, that is bad form, you stupid retard. I am the smartest coolest person in the world, and only I am allowed to quote shit from magazines and tell people how they should climb, cause I am the king of the fucking world. POSEURS
  15. Pax is just being modest.... He wanted to do the route car to car and shit, but we figured that carrying sleeping bags and a broken stove and shit was good training for our legs bro. So we hiked up to the lake super fast, and tried to break a sweat. The rats eating at our faces all night was also super stokearific cause it was good training to grow back skin on our faces. We would have slept at the base in the rain on our way out, cause we had no food or bivy sacks, and that shit is good training being really cold and hypothermic and shit, but Pax had a hot date with a golden retreiver in Leavenworth, and I had a manicure appointment with my hairdresser. Easiest shit I ever done in my life.... yours truely, bro bra
  16. skyclimb

    My Deal...

    Who the fuck do you think you are Micheal_Layton. You come onto this innocent climbing board, and give these outlandishly lavishly cut little trip reports that are way above my head. You should stop writing TR's because I suck, and am jealous, and i feel inferior because I am unhappy. FUCK THE NAY SAYERS, SERIOUS BULLSHIT. "Fuck this noise I am going climbing" Maybe it is good karma or something, cause now you always have the personal anguish stoke to fall back on when you epic on DarkStar Life is Good, give lots of blood for the team in Cali.
  17. KY usually works for me, as long as the lobes aren't to gunked up. If thats the case, giving them a bath usually works just fine. just my 2 cents
  18. It began on a weekday morning, watching the fall rain melt away my hopes for an indian summer. Something had to be done......
  19. Great pics and TR Pax! This is without question one of the top 5 funnest climbs I have done. The rock was great, the exposure was good, the climbing was varied, routefinding was a bitch, and commitment was high. The off-width was actually quite fun, and very secure for a wide crack, but it was nice to have the 5" to walk up. Like Pax said, the crux was improvising and figuring out a route through the fin with a storm appoaching. Thanks for the climb Pax
  20. Sounds like a messy wet dream... Nice work
  21. Another very worthy alternative would be to fix stations with tat in the gully off the back side, enabling a "walk off". This way two ropes wouldn't be needed, and stuck ropes wouldn't be an issue.
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