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Everything posted by skyclimb

  1. Hell yeah! Sweet looking photo's and great write up! Keep up the good work
  2. We did the West Ridge of Prussik about 2 weeks-3 weeks ago. Pics are in my gallery, of the snow conditions. The ridge was mostly snow free, and temple ridge was prime at that time.
  3. No way is classic crack harder than 5.8+, and dogleg has maybe one move of 5.8. I am no 5.12 climber, or even close to that, but these are good old school ratings for climbs. That doesn't make them sandbagged. For me a sandbag is when you not only infringe on the old school ratings, but actually down play a routes difficulty to the extent that people could get hurt. Some climbs in the menagerie come to mind...like the 10c pitch on the turkey monster...or rawhide beign 5.8, and originally rated 5.7? I was doing overhanging heel hooking with three pieces of pro in 100 feet? Those to me are sandbags.
  4. Climb: Broken Top-Northwest Ridge Date of Climb: 5/21/2005 Trip Report: Skied in via Falls Creek Trail. It is skiable from about 1/2 mile from the trailhead. Put in a track up to the ridge, and proceeded to simul-solo to the summit ridge. Downclimbed, and made a great ski back to the truck. Give it one more week, and the snice should form up real nice. Gear Notes: Skiies, one tool, poons Approach Notes: Snow
  5. In pretty much new condition, these boots excel at ice, mixed and rock climbing. They have only seen a few trips out, and have always kept my feet warm. They don't fit me, but are great boots. $100
  6. Well he was joking with my girlfriend and friends about it two days ago at the base of new testament... But that is neither here, nor there, was is being discussed in my TR now, is how this site and TR is being infiltrated by dusche bags. Care to comment cobra commander or mike G?
  7. It seems to me that lately when a TR is posted, someone or many people have to shoot it down. Thanks for the negative attitudes that are ruining this site and the purpose it serves. Thanks also to my friends, and fellow CC'ers who are positive and happy for people persuing their own dreams without distroying others dreams. You are the reason I hesitantly still post TR's. Anyone notice a lack of TR's lately???
  8. Hey, I know I look sexy in my new patagonia tank top from the auction, but I am not a fucking bitch yet.
  9. Yeah, there's always gotta be one David Fucking Hasslehoff wanna-be in the crowd.
  10. Yeah, sorry i missed the party in the west face cave there Ty, that bling bling around your neck looks pretty hardcore. As for the route and rockfall, i am the stupid ass boyfriend, luckily the rockfall was all pea sized(kitty litter) from what i hear. Anyways, if you go do the traverse, it may be wise to take a bolt kit to replace anchors, and certainly take new webbing to replace the rap tat. Great seeing everyone and partying harddy
  11. Climb: Christian Brothers traverse- Date of Climb: 5/7/2005 Trip Report: My friend Jason and I began the traverse at the newly bolted ridge(5.7) from asterik pass doing what felt to us a more pure line, and the only safe pitch on the route. Our first attempt on the route was thwarted three weeks ago, when three pitches into the traverse a freak snowstorm hit. Reversing the ridge was interesting, especially the jump across on pitch 2. Yesterday, after the smith rock clean-up, we went back to the christian brothers to do a little more clean-up, up high. We summitted the priest, rappelled, did the squeeze chimney between the twin spires that form the monk, rappelled, chimneyed to the top the pope, rapped and then summitted the friar. It was a fun traverse, with cool moves. I will never forget the 2nd pitch jump across! It was a great clean-up, and really fun to see some CC'ers, like muffy, badvoodoo, erik, whirlwind, camilo, mtnhigh and many others all giving back to a place that gives us soo much! Gear Notes: Gear to 3" Don't take anything but a 3.5" and a .75, everything else is useless Approach Notes: Bypass the first pitch in Watt's guide, and take the 5.7 arete from asterik pass
  12. Talk to corvallisclimb (tyler), he just got back from patagonia, working as a guide. He will have all the insight you need into packing, and all that other shit.
  13. I have heard about cipro from many people, and I will make sure to pick up some of that when I get down there. Thanks for the advise.
  14. skyclimb


    E, you sadistic bastard. For all you who haven't witnessed the fury of Mr. E unleashing on oversized boulders, beware. He's a trundling machine. Scariest trundle ever, was cutting loose a block off CBR with Layton, and not hearing it hit for quite a few seconds. It really then set in where we were, and that we needed to get off that fucker. to trundeling and adding to the exposure
  15. A few years back, I was staying at the hostel in Squamish, climbing and traveling. I was climbing with anyone I could meet, which lead me to all sort of riff raff, and some interesting characters. Pretty much the only invitation I refused, was from these two guys who were slab climbing afficiandos. Standing out in front of the hostel one rainy morning, they proceeded to tell me about their epic 60 footers from the day before. Obviously they had been on some heinous test piece, quite a few pitches off the deck, when the inevitable would happen. The sweat would build, the shoes would turn to goop, and the slide would commence. They explain how at the critical point where the rubber finally gives, they would turn around, 6 pitches off the deck, and start running at the belayer. Right when the rope was about to yank, they would throw themselves out into the air, letting the rope stretch, and catch the fall. Who knows if this was a tall tale or not, but they sure told a good story!
  16. Dreamer is a great route is really fun, take the crimpy variation to the left at the top, 5.9 crimps way off the deck, very memorable pitch. I think MattP put that variation in.
  17. It would be great to do the complete north ridge on Stuart, traverse across the ridge, drop down and hit backbone ridge on dragontail, drop down and hit CBR west face, drop off the backside and hit the south face of prussik, and then finish off the tour with hyperspace on SCW. Obviously, this tour would take a few days and food and gear caches, but it would be EPIC. Probably be done in 4-5 days by a fit team who can solo confidently at 5.9+ 1 day for NR stuart and traverse 1 day for backbone ridge 1 day for CBR west face and prussik south face. After all, two grade III's don't equal a VI 1 day for approach and hyperspace... Thats 4 days...Yikes Of course, you could add an additional day, by doing the complete traverse of temple ridge. Some folks like misery, just not me
  18. Finish off two adventure projects I have been working on for months in Oregon that are eating at me. Hopefully complete them within the next two weeks, so my mental state of mind can return to normal. Liberty Ridge Huantsan- Peru Alpamayo-Ferrari route-Peru NB Fury NEB Slesse These are the routes, in order that I would like to do this season. In addition, if time permits a traverse of the torment forbidden looks nice, as does Alberta via the Japanese Route. All I really care about is having fun, and learning as much as possible. It seems that the adventurous routes seem to give me this more than trade routes. Hopefully my path will show me these opportunities for adventure in the future
  19. Man that sounds heinous. It seems that the most nerve wracking moments can often be when immediate action isn't neccessary, but when your doom slowely sets in. Like being stuck at a bivy on an exposed ridge, and weather starts moving in. Two recent pitches like this for me were pitch 2 on the christian brothers traverse, and pitch 2 on the turkey monster. While not that serious, or nearly as bad as what you mention sufferfest, they did make me think seriously about "what the fuck am I doing here."
  20. I am heading to Peru in 7 weeks to climb routes up to 22,000 feet. I am curious what you veterans of high altitude technical ascents do to train? I have been climbing a lot on all mediums and working out a lot, but what have you done that has been successful for high altitude ice and rock?
  21. Thanks for the information, it is appreciated. Hopefully next year you will have success.
  22. Glad to hear school isn't making you soft Mr. Layton, good work on some fine scratching.
  23. Trying to freeze my nut sack off, with Mr. Thad Boner
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