skyclimb

I WANT SOME ODWALA DRINKS PLEASE SOMEONE>> BING ME ODWALA DRINKS CAN"T GOTO STORE>>> NEED ODWALA DRINKS HEEEELLLLLP< C MONSTER I DON"T SEE>>>> NEED ODWALA DRINKS

"No really, what time is it" Looked like the pillar was a blast, Greg got a sweet shot of you on route, right about the point you made the pendulum I think. I will put it in the gallery shortly. The north ridge IS "HOT"

Climb: Stuart and ingalls-North Ridge(great gendarme) and S. +E. Ingalls Date of Climb: 7/4/2004 Trip Report: Greg and I awoke Saturday morning to find nothing but ominous clouds ripping over our tarp. That coupled with the foul smell from the near by shitter, and we weren't too stoked. So we went back to sleep and awoke at 930 hours at which time we made our way to Ingalls Peak. We proceeded to simul the south ridge, and relished in the amazing movements the route has to offer. We banged out the east ridge in similar fashion, noting the difference in movements and rock texture between the two ridges. We were back at the tarp by 1400 hours just below Ingalls lake. As night fell we fixated on the clearing skies and the possiblity of a shot on the beloved North Ridge of Stuart. We Ate, We Drank, We released for the goats. Moving at 330 hours Sunday morning due to cold winds, and the promise a nearly full moon had to offer. We reached goat pass after some interesting snow traversing, and refilled the camelback at a water drip just under the Stuart glacier. Interesting snow and rock climbing in the couloir kept things spicy. -note to self- tree sticks aren't good ice axes. As we arived at the bivy ledge we were glad to drop our ice axes, and move onto a more comfortable medium-Rock! We began the ridge at 1030 hours simuling on a 27 meter 7.8mm. It was 37 meter until a core shot on the east ridge of Ingalls left that section off limits. We made great time, with the second carrying the pack of boots, crampons water, gu, and down jackets. We arrived at the great gendarme 3 hours after beginning the ridge proper to be amazed at the beauty, and awe inspiring exposure the gendarme afforded. Greg lead the first pitch making quick time of the triple waved crack. I then stepped up to the off width. I made the traverse, slung up a sketchy rock wedged in the crack and began climbing. I grunted for about 10 feet and placed a 3" BD, only to realize it wasn't engaged-too small. at this point I understood there was no other option but to keep moving to the 4" fixed piece 10 feet above. Into the void of nothingness I crept as the world 2,000 feet below was calling . All that existed was blackness. When I clipped the 4" the world rushed back in, and I finished the pitch uneventfully. Greg finished up the gendarme with style making my sweat look silly. We finished the route about 2.5 hours later and enjoyed a marvolous view of the range. A 5 hour decent filled with glissading on snow, rock and nasty whacking lead us back to the tarp, and later the truck. Gear Notes: Sticks aren't good ice axes 3.5 BD IS worth the weight Approach Notes: Snow traversing to 40 degrees to attain Goat pass steep snow traverse to base of couloir.

Good work you two. Mister Layton giving Mister E an education in the Alpine.

survival of the fittest right

Thats my buddy Craig, who is also doing the research. I am the short one

Hey Dave, We were doing the studies on the summerland trail today. i think we stopped and talked with you guys about the lines . We saw some sick shizza up there for sure

Check the gallery for a picture of the south side of the mountain... Taken yesterday

Leave tomorrow afternoon, do a fast and light push. let me know ASAP if you wanna move fast and get out and back quickly

Nice work! So your route went up the face before the decent couloir?? I hear you about the kitty litter fun

Climb: A True Hollywood Story- Part Deux- Date of Climb: 6/16/2004 Trip Report: It began with a phone call from Val Kilmer (thadsboner) my esteemed collegue in pain and suffering. A phone call that would soon see Val and I, Christian Slater, into the heart of the bush. Yes, thats right the nasty dirty bush of Darrington. We went searching for dreamer, what we found was one of the best routes either of us had done to date. Missing the washed out gully to the base of the wall was the first mistake that cost Val his actors appearance, and turned his legs from a girls dream to a dreamers nightmare. Devils club is not your friend Val, no not your friend. We arrived at the base of the wall nice and early, 12:00 p.m., a good actors start. We decideded to go light and fast, with nothing but our rubbers and harnesses. Rope stretcher after rope stretcher lead Val to the Blue Crack- just the shit that Val likes. The lazer cut splitter that is so fabled in Hollywood stories. Val Dispensed of the pitch like the evil goons trying to kill Warwick Davis. This lead to the off route bush pulling, runout, swearing Christian Slater sufferfest that left my pretty little shirt torn to shreads- not good for the career. Soon the route found us on top, with nothing but air. The light and fast ethic is great, but after 6 hours without water or food, and a long walk off ahead into unknown territory we decided to move. Sketchy raps, crazy vertical bush decending, and gully free solos found us back at the packs just as the sun was falling into the mountains. As we gorged on water out of the river, and cans of cheap ass chili we realized another True Hollywood story had been made. Gear Notes: Rubbers and Harnesses Approach Notes: Devils club is not your friend

This has also happened to me. Luckily I kept my temporary pass/reciept as well. Hopefully later in the summer when the park is fully staffed the mail-outs will begin. Until then it sounds like the park is honoring receipts/honor system. Which brings up park revenues. It seems that if the mail-outs were done the park could establish more accuratly who has paid and who hasn't. Because the park must rely on the honor code right now, does not paying to mail out yearly permits outweight people going up the mountain for free. Which is more expensive for the park in the short term??

You will need diamond blades to cut through the rock. Diamond blades run on average around 78-85$ for a 12" blade. They also sell 8" blades for what you will be doing.I am not a expert in geological formation, but river rocks appear to be very hard. I would imagine you will be burning through blades(wet or dry) very quickly. It seems that either buying holds, or hooking on to Jons idea would be key

I usually do 1-2 reps and 3 or so sets.

Bear hug can be done with a 3.5 BD, and the 5.8 crack is killer. Just watch-out for the inadvertent head jam near the top We took a set of singles to 3.5

My sentiments exactly!

It is amazing that line is still in on middle sister-northeast couloir. Last winter I don't thing the ice pitch came in at all, and it looks rollin right now! Sweet pics.

So if tourism emerges in a culture that is based primarily around subsistence living- lets use amboseli national preserve in kenya for instance, and a boom and bust cycle occurs over two generations around tourism. What happens to the second generation who has lost the methods of subsistence living?? Infrastructure both culturally and physically is necissary to create sustainable tourism both socially and economically for HOSTS . Ecotourism can prove to be sustainable, and can help the enviornment greatly. It has been proven in places such as africa and the galapagos that preserving species instead of killing them is more profitable with the emergence of eco-tourism. In fact a lion in Kenya has a head price of 568,000 dollars(on average) for the amount of tourism dollars it generates. Instead of deforestation people in costa rica have found that if they create a PRIVATE preserve, they will make more money, and can help the enviornment at the same time. Sounds like a pretty cool thing to me. However if eco-tourism isn't controlled and carrying capacities aren't looked at you will create both social and ecological chaos.

If the country that is partaking in eco-tourism has capital investments, and a pre-existing infrastructure before ecotourism occurs the coutnry will be much better off. Look at costa Rica- privatized infrastructures and parks. Good management techniques. Bhutan-200$ fee per day. Infrastructure is the key to preserving carrying capacity both socially and ecologically in developing and developed countries. Theres my rant for the day

We approached Ingalls on sunday. Snow level is still about 1000 feet below longs pass. We found the snow conditions to be rather sketchy on the backside of longs pass. We made the traverse, and started up the gully, but then turned back. Beware of wet slabs. Rock friction felt really good when wet

It time to ride boieeeee cruisin

A great memorial day weekend without a doubt! Respects were paid to the deceased in the peaceful enviorns of leavenworth. Climbed with a bunch of great CC'ers, as CC decended upon the sweet and innocent bavarian village. We climbed many tall pints, and suffered the reprocussion. We climbed so hard we shook(beer shakes of course) and finally we discharge all that climbing love on the world. Gotta love 3 day weekends E-thanks for the grand tour, and the sweet pics dude

Just how we like it

SXUS46 KSEW 261211 RECSEA WAZ018-025-270030- MOUNT RAINIER RECREATIONAL FORECAST NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE SEATTLE WA 530 AM PDT WED MAY 26 2004 .SYNOPSIS...A WEAK FRONT WILL MOVE THROUGH WESTERN WASHINGTON THIS MORNING...WITH RAIN CHANGING TO SHOWERS IN THE AFTERNOON. COOLER SHOWERY WEATHER WILL CONTINUE THROUGH FRIDAY AS AN UPPER LOW SLOWLY MOVES TOWARD THE AREA FROM THE NORTHWEST...WITH SNOW POSSIBLE IN THE HIGHER MOUNTAIN PASSES. AN UPPER RIDGE WILL MOVE ACROSS THE AREA SATURDAY...FOLLOWED WEAK PACIFIC FRONTS SUNDAY AND EARLY NEXT WEEK. && .WEDNESDAY...RAIN AT TIMES. SNOW LEVEL 8000 FEET. .WEDNESDAY NIGHT...SHOWERS. SNOW LEVEL 6000 FEET. .THURSDAY...SHOWERS. SNOW LEVEL 6500 FEET. .THURSDAY NIGHT...SHOWERS. SNOW LEVEL 5000 FEET. .FRIDAY...MOSTLY CLOUDY. SCATTERED SHOWERS. SNOW LEVEL 5000 FEET. .FRIDAY NIGHT...MOSTLY CLOUDY. CHANCE OF SHOWERS. SNOW LEVEL 5000 FEET. && LONGMIRE / PARADISE / CAMP MUIR / SUMMIT ELEV 2700 5420 10188 14411 WEDNESDAY 55 / CALM 50 / W10 32 / W40 18 / W60 WEDNESDAY NIGHT 45 / SW05 40 / SW15 28 / W40 15 / W50 THURSDAY 50 / SW08 40 / SW20 20 / SW35 12 / SW50 THURSDAY NIGHT 40 / SW08 30 / SW15 14 / SW30 07 / SW30 FRIDAY 45 / W05 32 / W10 15 / W15 00 / W20 (TEMPERATURES AND WIND FOR THE SUMMIT AND CAMP MUIR ARE AVERAGE CONDITIONS EXPECTED IN THE FREE AIR AT THOSE ELEVATIONS. TEMPERATURES FOR PARADISE AND LONGMIRE ARE EXPECTED HIGH AND LOW TEMPERATURES. WIND IS THE AVERAGE WIND EXPECTED DURING THAT PERIOD.) .EXTENDED FORECAST... .SATURDAY...PARTLY SUNNY. FREEZING LEVEL 7500 FEET. .SATURDAY NIGHT THROUGH TUESDAY...MOSTLY CLOUDY. RAIN AT TIMES. SNOW LEVEL AROUND 7000 FEET. Be careful, there has been snow accumulating over hard pack for a while.....