That new nut is on route. Blake and Pete H established a 4 pitch rap route from the top of the knife-edge to the base. I'll agree with Layton that the ropeless scramble to the top is idyllic and finishes up the route nicely for me. Also, it's easy to wander over and summit enchantment pk when you walk off.
I just talked to another party who missed the summit ridge. They claimed to have been led astray by beta in Kramar's new Ltown guide... So, for P6 in the Leavenworth Rock Guide, don't "Start up the corner, " instead "Move up the arete on knobs...".
I dont know your skill level comin from Ohio, but that NW Buttress descent is pretty full value. FWIW.
If you do decide to descend via NW Butt or Sherpa glacier (North Side) then it's of little value and a lot more work to move your bivy up to the Goat Pass area from the lower basin.
Hi all,
Looking for a partner for Deep Creek near Spokane tomorrow Wednesday July 20th. I'm free til about noon so the earlier the better (7ish...). I've got draws and a rope, looking to get on 11's and 12's. Send me a PM and lets go get pumped!!
Sol Wertkin
Leavenworth, WA
Sure they work, but the limited cam range, floppy stem, bullshit alumimum cams (that shear), and slippery/small trigger make them inferior to aliens and tcu's in my not so humble opinion.