Sol

Nason is far from a secret crag, and who would want to keep it secret, it's an uber choss pile. Nonetheless it's fun climbing and I never see people up there anymore. I am friends with the landowners, they currently have no problems with people climbing there but have asked that directions not be posted on the internet. Best to PM someone who's responded to this thread.

I seriously doubt that Sleese is in, but there are folks that live in Canada that can see it from their backyards so maybe they'll chime in. These are my 20 favorite alpine/alpinish rock climbs in WA state: Thin Red Line 12+ Liberty Bell The Tempest Wall 12+ Colchuck Balanced Rock Let It Burn 12- Colchuck Balanced Rock Liberty Crack/Freedom of Death 9+A2/12- Dragons of Eden 11+/12- Dragontail Pk West Face 11+ West Gunsight Pk The Passenger 11+ South Early Winter Spire Der Sportsmen 11+ Prusik Peak West Face 11+ Colchuck Balanced Rock Gorillas in the Mist 11- Mt. Stuart Solid Gold 10+/11- Prusik Pk Clean Break 10+ Juno Tower East Face 10+ Main Gunsight Pk SW Buttress 10+ Cathederal Peak Megalodon Ridge 10+ Mt. Goode Rebel Yell 10 Chianti Spire South Face 10- Prusik Pk Complete N. Ridge 9+ Mt. Stuart Torment-Forbidden Traverse 9- Cascade Pass NE Buttress 5.6 Mt. Goode

it's not by leavenworth, its near renton...

I was a bit surprised to see you guys heading down so early in the morning when we were psyched to get an early enough start. Nice job on the Dawn Patrol, to bad you needed some sun to corn that ice up.

you dudes are lucky!

Yeah, we met at the country last year. You must've mistaked us for hardmen this past weekend cuz we where getting worked!

I saw you youngsters lurking at the LTW on sunday.

East Face Attempt

Thanks for the Stuart range stoke!!

you smell like a dirty leaf.

Seconding a very wet Pressure Chamber on Hyperspace a few weeks back. [video:vimeo]24544223 More pics here

Just my .02 here but it seems that many folks get bogged down in carrying way too much bullshit up each pitch while aid climbing. Minimize the cluster. On any pitch A2+ and easier, two yates adj. daisies, one set of ladder style aiders. Each daisy and each aider on their own keylock non-locking carbiner. Get er done. Quit fucking around and move. Place your piece of gear. Clip daisy to highest point of gear (thumb loop on cam). Tighten adj daisy, bounce test with you waist, 1-3 times only (and only if it isn't bomber, otherwise don't bounce test, just move). If your gear holds a bounce test. Hang off your top daisy and move each aider up. Each aider carabiner gets clipped directly into the daisy biner on each side of the daisy (so your daisy doesn't move when you top step). Start moving up your ladders (get er done, second step minimum, top step preferably). When you waist gets near the lever of the gear clip the rope in. Repeat.

As mentioned before Green Dragon and Town Crier are great choices. Also worth aiding on the UTW is the complete Dana's Arch.

It depends on your abilities.

Nice turns dudes!!!

Sickness!

ditto

Now that you did it what would you change about this training approach? If you had just climbed as much as possible (as many people argue is the best way to train for climbing) leading up to it do you think you would have succeeded? Big wall speed climbing is not free climbing.

Badass!!!

Gated seasonally. From what i've heard there are a number of big wash-outs from the march rains. So, even if they open the gate, we won't be driving to punk rock for a while...

were you top-stepping?

wow!

P1 is one of the easier pitches of the route at 11a (sandbag!) The Green Dragon is a freeroute!

Nice job you guys!!

make sure you thread it right. i have only used mine a couple of times and that was years ago but I have heard that you can thread it wrong and it wont feed correctly. is it maybe a reverse clove hitch vs. a standard clove hitch??? just some thoughts... hopefully dberdinka will chime in with the real beta.