Sol

no reason to let a lower body injury make your upper body weak. get a fingerboard and use it often, short quality sessions. go slow on using your knee and prepare for two steps forward, one step back.

Nice trip!! No doubt that the summit of Goode is the best bivy in the North Cascades!

yep. the traverse is on p4.

Thx for making that link public Lowell and team. Very cool stuff. I climbed 3 new routes with various partners last summer that I havent publicized, I'll try and get on it and post up soon. Thx for the FA Stoke and your great work as lead editor of the NWMJ over the years! I wish I had the freetime to step up to that role but I just don't. Who's psyched?

Nice blog post fellas. Great to meet you. You dudes really reminded me of myself and Jimbo going for it on Backbone years ago. Nice work!

Nice! I have heard of some 5.11 climbers scared off by P1 and P2...

Nice work gentlemen! Blake sent me a shot of this ridge about 5 years ago and it's been sitting in my backburner folder ever since. Nice to see it get sent!

After swearing by gear slings for the first 8 years of my climbing career, I gave them up because I noticed that none of the pro trad climbers, or friends, that inspire me, wear them. Now I will use one on easy ground up to 5.9 if we really have to boogie, if not it goes on my harness. Racking on my harness keeps me more balanced and I don't have to keep adjusting the sling and throwing it around my back when all the cams slide forward everytime I lean forward. Plus, you can't drop the whole rack if one fumble... It's totally your own perogative, but it's gotta mean something that i've never seen anyone lead hard trad with a gear sling.

Right on Mark. I just figured with all the work you put into the superb TR and topo it seems only fitting to add the free-climbing info in. Thx!

Cold beers on me. You are the man Kurt! Pretty shady stuff up there eh.

just move the cams out of the way

really?

Didn't Burdo use some different belays for the FFA? Any chance you can add some free-climbing info to your topo?

gumby bail

Well done team! Great write up Mark, psyched to try and free climb this route some time. FWIW: Passenger route has gotten a consensus rating of 11c (and it's really only 3 hard moves, just throwing this out there so folks dont get intimidated by a 12a rating on this stellar line). Great job!

the agreement with the landowners whom property the approach trail crosses is that nothing is to be posted on the internet about nason... kinda goofy but whatever. it's been fun exploring the routes and gaining a consensus on grades over the years. if i see you up there, i'd be happy to show you around. just follow the bolts to the anchors

the Camp Photon lockers are the lightest and sexiest i've ever used: http://www.camp-usa.com/products/carabiners/photon-screw-192003.asp

yo dan, if you can make it to index blake and i can give you a ride back to ltown. we'll be at index around 8 and heading to ltown around 3. welcome home brother.

Well done gentlemen!

I call it a 10c. Nice job!

i would not recommend the east ledges descent when the west ridge couloir is still a go. loose, dirty, and generally unpleasant IMO.

Sweet! Glad to see this climbed by someone i'm not friends with. One day this route will get the traffic it deserves as a mega-classic. Just wait til you try the direct finish! Still waiting for the one day ascent to the summit....