Dane
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Everything posted by Dane
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Yes, you do have to fill out a customs form and tell what you are shipping. I'm still waiting for those AKs I was promised in trade for my porn and inflatable doll collection ...maybe that is the problem
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If you use a priority mail flat rate box there is one size that will fit normal size climbing mags perfectly. You can get 30 or more in one box. Costs a flat rate of $10 to then mail it to an APO. Priority mail will actually get there this century as well Forgot to add...most of you hosers have other magazines laying about, bike, motorcycle, gun, triathalon, newsweek, lingerie catalogs, your collection of porno...like who is gonna look besides the morals POLICE.... and the typical homes and gardens, Rolling Stone, GQ or Cosmo can brighten a day . Trust me for guys/gals hanging out in a dirt hole one day or a hospital the next, variety can be the spice of life. But you get the idea
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Patagucci Puff Hoody, great alpine climbing jacket for "reasonable" conditions. Tiny pin hole in left forarm (see picture) where I wrapped a rope on a rappel. Outer is ripstop so the pin hole isn't going to interfer with function or over all durability in any way. Other wise new conditon. Actually worn less than 2 hours. Original stuff sack included. Size is XL and in that beautiful blue color! $125 shipped anywhere in the USA. Pay Pal prefered. If you have question make sure you send me a PM so I don't miss it.
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Great ice or alpine boot. Insulated with Thinsulate®. Worn for a total of about 40 hrs. Tops are a little scuffed from a death march through a snowed up boulder field at Odark30. The majority of those 40 hrs the boots were on snow and ice. They just don't fit my feet. My loss your gain. $250.00 shipped anywhere in the USA. Pay Pal prefered. Size is 45 or about an 11.5 US size. Sticky rubber sole and a short attached Schoeller gaiter. If you have question make sure you send me a PM so I don't miss it.
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I'm all over fast, light and climb harder. But just found that for myself aid is none of the above. If I think I'm going to have to really aid something I bring aiders for both members and at least one pair (or 2) of full size ascenders. Things do go faster with the right gear. If it is something we think will be "french free" then just a bit more pro will generally do it. If it is alpine climbing and mixed then tools might eliminate some of what would have been aid just a few years ago.
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For those that have had problems getting the REI sale price and the right Trango..... "No online deal or I couldn't find it awayway. But I know the boot is currently in the REI system. If you know your size just call one of the REI stores. I started with Seattle as I saw the boot there a week or so ago. If they don't have your size on hand have them check the SKEW # and see if there are any in your size in the REI computer system. In my case no more in Seattle but they found 3 pair of 45s for me this morning...2 pr. in Colorado and one pr. in California. I then called the store direct ( Seattle employee give me the phone #s) and 5 minutes later I had a pair coming to my home address via my credit card. When you are talking to the REI sales staff make sure it is the SILVER Trango Extreme Evo and the price is $249.83 and you'll then know you have the right boot." Good luck! Moosejaw? I saw the same thing last night which got me started on the hunt this morning. According to Moosejaw when i had them on the phone at 9AM this morning they no longer have any of the Trango Extreme Evos in stock. Although my computer and their web site still showed 3 pairs in my size in stock @ Moosejaw. I went for a real person on the phone and the silver boot in the right size actually in their hand after going through this same run around last time.
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Ya, that review was so good I went looking for pair of the Trango Extreme evos myself Glad I did, as the sale price dropped from $300 at REI to $250 in a week or so. Hopefully you can find your size in the REI store system!
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FWIW REI currently has the Trango Extreme Evo on sale for $249.83. Boot is goretex lined, insulated, sticky rubber soles, stiff and sweeeeeeeeeeeet. It is the silver boot Colin is using above.
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Bump for a good guy and fast delivery. Thanks!
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Batura? They walk well. The don't walk as well as the Trango Series though because the rocker could be better. The same things that make them a good hiking boot makes them not so great on steep ice. They have an extremely soft ankle. Which makes them a good mixed boot. I'm not a fan of zippers, but the beefy nature of the zipper on the outer gaiter proved durable. I'm on my second season with mine. Bit of a pain to get in and out of. Lacing/gaiter isn't all that easy to deal with but managable. The bigger toe box is noticable. Bigger than the Nepal IMO and bigger overall internally. Totally different fit than the Trangos. I wear the same size boot in all three boots (Nepal/trango/Batura). The Batura is by far the biggest boot size wise. "These aren't the boots I choose for multiple nights out, as drying them would become a problem. However, they are my pick for fast, cold-weather ascents in the mountains and winter ice climbing." I agree with the quote from Alpinist. The boot is hard to dry out and gets wet internally from sweat quickly. The Batura does not breath well which makes them a colder boot than they should be. A VBL or Mitchums will help. Over all it is no dbl boot. Nor is it a good single boot with a decent super gaiter. I did a climb last winter in the icefields where I was really, really happy I could keep moving. -25 and knee deep light powder snow for a good part of the approach and decent. Worst combo you can get for cold feet. I have spent time in similar conditions in the Nepal Evo with no problems. The Batura is warmer than the Trangos and better compared IMO to the Nepal Evo and about the same as the Nepal for warm. The Nepal Evo offers much more support for the ankle in every direction and will out last the Batura. Jack Roberts, who I respect a lot, says the Batura is his favorite boot with well over 100 days a year on ice and mixed. Just an observation but I did notice Colin Haley wore Baturas last season in Patagonia and used Extreme Evos this year on his solo of Fitzroy. Me? I'd go for a Extreme Evo with Goretex and a decent insulated supergaitor next time. And I got rid of my super gaitors 30 years ago! The Extreme will lace easier and fit better because of it and will be warmer in the long run because they breath. They'll climb better on hard mixed because of the tighter fit and with the sticky soles better on pure rock. And finally you can replace the supergaiter instead of the boot. But they do look KOOL All the bs, and opinions aside I suspect most will like the Batura just fine and you'll have warm feet. Finally the previous Trangos (any extreme model) or an Ice EVO modified with the addition of lace eyelets ditching the funky lace system both beat the shit out of the newest Prime.
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$10 a box will get a bunch of them via priority mail to any APO address. If you don't want to let me know and I'll ship them to Jason @ one of our hospitals in Iraq.
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"another comment regards his time off between training days. i think this is highly subjective, depending on the fitness of the climber." It isn't subjective. Getting stronger depends on getting the right amount of rest. You don't get stronger while you are working. You get stronger while you are resting. Your recovery time depends on the level of work and your ability to recover from that particular level.
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"The guide service has been getting people up rainier and has a better understanding of what is needed. If leathers were better than plastics, they would recommend them." I wouldn't go that far. Having guided on Rainier off and on during 3 decades I can make some observations. A major revenue stream for the guide services and REI for that matter is rentals. The plastic boot made boot rentals possible for the most part. You should have seen the odd ball collections of leather boots that use to make up the rental fleets. But a number of other reasons guides love plastic on client's feet and few of them have anything to do directly with the client's comfort level. The way a guide service makes money is by volume and eliminating problems for the guide service. Being able to climb in marginal weather is one of them. Guides on the other hand make money by return business. There is a difference. Bottom line is if you want to buy a good pair of boots and use them on Rainier I would. You have very little to loose and more than likely will enjoy the trip more in your own boots. The Trango line or Scarpa's line are all good boots easily up to the task of Rainier in June and July. The Extreme Evo Lt and the Prime are excellent technical boots with some insulation and a water resistant lining that is fairly effective. Both brands of lwt weight boots have been used to good effect in Patagonia and the Canadian Rockies in winter and all over the Alps in summer and winter. Conditions that make Rainier in mid summer trivial. Many of the modern fabric/technical boots will do just fine in anything Rainier can dish out in June and July and you'll be more comfortable using them over plastic while you are there.
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A June Rainier climb will be on snow the majority of the time. Without plastics you'll have wet feet in almost any other boot. I climbed in plastics for years but haven't climbed in plastics now for years and won't likely ever climb in plastics again. None of the Sportivas are water proof in typical sloppy wet June conditions on Rainier. The Prime, Evo light or Evo Ice are OK but even the Evo Light, which is goretex lined, will be wet by the time you get off the mountain. The Prime is new and yet to be proven but I wouldn't expect it to be any better than the Evo light. On a reasonable June climb no real problem with a wet boot. Especially if you are climbing out of Muir from a hut. On a bad weekend even with a guide service you could end up with some minor damage to your feet and an uncomforable summit morning. Any version of the Sportiva Trangos make a great summer boot for Rainier if you get to pick your weather. Their light weight and comfort slogging up Rainier can almost make up for a few hours of cold feet on summit day for me. If you go to the Trango Series for boots, even with the new Prime, take a good knee high gaiter. That addition has proven to keep my feet drier much longer.
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It is legal. BATF says it needs to have a 16" barrel or longer, any kind of stock including a pistol grip if fine.
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It is a pet peeve of mine but I just love to see reviews that make comparisons or a review at all of a product the reviewer has never used And end up guessing wrong. It should be obvious by this thread that there are a lot of hoody designs out there made from many different materials. Should be easy to find one that matches your needs.
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WANT TO BUY GREGORY DAYPACK OR CHOUINARD !!!!!!
Dane replied to shane schanderl's topic in The Yard Sale
Chouinard? They haven't made a pack in 30 years. -
More here on selecting ice climbs: http://www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/inc/PM-MP/visit/visit7a12_e.pdf
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Thanks for the idea, I finally squared mine away. The heels were ground with a bevel to the outside which was keeping them from fitting any crampon correctly. Took 5 minutes on a grinder once I figured it all out. Now just about any crampon works fine evn in the bigger size. Hopefully that might help someone else if the problem comes up. Spantik and House on Nanga Parbat? Actually they didn't use Spantiks on Nanga Parbat but the Sportiva Nuptse. There was a good picture of House on the summit of the Rupal face on the old Grivel NA website. He was obviously using the Nuptse in the picture. I've seen the video a couple of times and noted he never says he used the Spantik on Nanga Parbat (although it is certainly implied imo) just that he likes a double boot and how to keep them clean. The rest of the gear was specific to his and Anderson's Nanga Parbat climb. Last I checked House was sponsored by Sportiva....always good to promote the newest product pictures from Nanga Parbat Here is the video again : http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6682751795170095622
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Will do Paul. Doing well, few things keep surprizing me but finally back at work full time just this last month. 6000M Peaks? It is a Great Show!
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So the guy solos Willis wall BITD while tagging along with two NW legends and then makes some lame ass comment about local park LE and S&R. Then all you guys want to do is talk about LE and S&R. You miss so much.