Dane

Ya, I did get in a bit of a hurry earlier today...easy to get excited about the conditions and such great efforts by all. Chephren was exceptional. Walsh has built up quite a tic list over the last few years, with obviously more yet to come! Jon Walsh sez: from Gadd's website

Shit it is still only Nov. and already among many many others, Nemisis, Replicant, Polar Circus, Borgeau Right, Murchinson and Wild Thing freed on Chephren 24 hrs car to car, all have been climbed. Amazing! Bunch of CC.com locals up there for the long weekend now. Be fun for us slackers to read the new trip reports.

We got talking about this kind of stuff last night at a dinner party. Hadn't seen some of the folks in months so the topic came up. Here is an observation. I got hurt because I wasn't really paying attention. Of course I could have put something in to keep my self from grounding out. Why I fell off shouldn't matter. Don't beat yourself up just do it better next time around. Really fast cars and sport bikes require the same sort of attention. You watch and focus (or should to stay safe) while climbing and need to on a sport bike that will hit 180mph. Not really things you can do casually, You need to be alert and hyper aware at all times. I forgot that and paid the price. Although not in great health now i am climbing again but I do pay close attention to every detail now....more that I ever have and I am more secure for it. And climbing just as hard. Best wishes for a full and short recovery! The best thing is you are still alive and can make a recovery. Not everyone gets that chance again

Like almost any alpine ice climb, late fall, if the conditions are right. I would bet this one could be almost dry on the crux pitches on some years during Oct and Nov. Different year and a wet fall, then a good freeze and clear weather might well give more ice and better snow conditions than we got. I'd have never believed the climbing was going to be as good as it was while looking up at the N. face of Dragontail when hiking over to the coulior! There was almost no snow walking in on the trail (less than a inch or just bare) or at the lake (less than 6" of fluff) The lake is just starting to get a tiny bit of ice on the far north end. Good two feet of snow on the top of Asgard out of the wind and more yet higher up on Dragontail. Here is that "money" shot that made we want to be there. This one from our climb taken from the belay on the first pitch of the crux corner system.

Forgot this. If you want the Nomic for pure water ice you'll want to ditch the Astro pic which is intentionally very blunt to last longer on mixed. It works great for the intended purpose. The Cascade pick however was designed for pure ice and works much better going in and coming out than the Astroeh. Good price on the tools right now at EMS www.ems.com

Once we get a couple of good storm cycles you'll want to check the approach times again. Right now there isn't much snow up high. That will change quickly and make some of these climbs a much bigger affair. Which is why most just drive north to Canada

I love mine. But I don't think they are the best pure water ice tool. IMO too light eevn with the head weights for pure, hard, cold, water ice. Awesome on softer alpine ice at lower angles. For hooking, mixed or a climber who can get a "light touch" on hard ice they are fantastic. I prefer a Quark with a bolted on upper handhold on water ice. You get swing weight and a hammer. But either can be used as a "dagger" on lower angle ice. Which I think is a huge advatage on easier slopes. Three big down sides to the Nomic, worth the advatages if on the right route...low swing weight, no spike when used as a cane and no hammer. I like mine on more difficult alpine climbs as well. Takes little to get use to them and easy to begin using them to huge disadvatage.

In May I took my first fall in over 38 years of climbing that resulted in serious injury. Taken hundreds of falls doing trad rock. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/807945/1 Yesterday and 7 months later I did my first serious climb since then. Although I followed the entire climb. Climb turned out harder than expected so I turned down the hard leads. Knowing the chances of me falling off were pretty high at teh moment, I'd never intentionally go on a climb I couldn't lead within my own comfort level. This one caught me by surprize, but isn't that part of why we climb? Luckily for me my partner was up to the task of baby sitting me. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/853622/Re_TR_Dragontail_NE_Couloir_11#Post853622 While not nearly as strong or have the endurance that I use to have, I still have all the desire...on most days. I don't have the confidence I use to, but sometimes the desire is even more important that physical skills. Even confidence cna come back if you push yourself a bit. I am now a lot more cautious. A lot more cautious. Once you realise that a 30' ground fall could easily kill you, it can easily chnage your mind set. I am still dealing with the aftermath of that fall and will be for some time if not forever. I use to solo up to 5.11, WI5 and some big walls roped and unroped alpine and rock on a fairly regular basis right up to the week before I fell off. I doubt any of that will ever happen again...mostly because I doubt I'll ever be strong enough (mentally or physically) again. My point? The mental part you can get back close to where you ended if you want it badly enough. Hang in there, you'll get what ever you want back in time. It just takes time.

I imagine John was thinking about the original crux on Kitchener's GCC with his comment. He took a 40'er, 2500' up, a month ago when a block pulled. I certainly had that climb in mind....a bit longer and not quite like the solid limestone at Hafner I offered a Hafner grade comparison because many here have climbed there. GCC or some of the other Rockies N faces, which are all chossy, don't generally see that kind of traffic Just a bit more info.. Same gully in May. Note the lack of rock pitches at the entrance to the gully? Just shows you how much a route can change in a season. (or even between ascents when you are loosing much of the ice just by climbing on it)) No way in hell anyone is going to ski sections of the lower gully as it was on Tuesday. Take a look at John's photos again in some of the narrow sections. A number of places I could just get two boots side by side. Early spring after a good load of winter snow I suspect much of the gully actually is 40 degrees and fairly wide by comparison. Still not all of it is going to be 40 degrees and it would make an impressive ski from the upper rock band down. You fall here and you'll die bouncing off the sides of the gully but at least there is a good run out over the 'shrund, so you'll be easy to find

M5 Rockies choss and M5 granite are different animals John

The OR hoody looks to be a good thing. A follow up on the REI Ladro. I used mine yesterday on Dragon tail. First over a Patagoneia hoody and a supelight shell. Then later with all those layers (3) and a Puff Parka over the top. Great peice of climbing kit. Easy on and off at the belays and enough wind protection to make a big difference. Layers well with no binding or drag and the strech capabilty makes it a pleasure to climb in.

Ya, just love plunging steps past my belly button.....damn that was getting old and I was just following

Craig aka Alpine Monkey did an awseome job breaking trail up the gully (sadly no steps there from Sunday) and kindly leading every pitch. Gotta give him big atta boys! If you read Becky's guide this climb is rated a II 5.7 and 40 degrees. A 5.7 leader would be well out of his element on this one in similar late fall conditions. M4 or M5? The climbing was pretty sustained and poorly protected in the last, long, two pitches and harder than any M5 I have done at Hafner. Not all that much for pro, which most will want. Bring some thin pins. And a good bit steeper over all than the 40 degrees Becky has listed. It is a great climb however and more like something from Chamonix than what you'd expect to find in the NW. To be fair any mixed alpine route will change almost daily depending on conditions. If this thing had a foot of ice top to bottom it would be more fun than Polar Circus or Slipstream. Either way, short of the approach, it is a classic mixed climb for our area. As John's pictures showed the ambience any where in the gully is second to none. Big thanks to John as well for the great TR. If I hadn't seen the pics I'd never believed it worth the walk in. Looking down from any where on the Upper crux is awe inspring. Lower in the gully, on the best ice to be had on our ascent. Screws in these conditions were worthless. But amazingly you could generally get a good stick or a decent hook and good feet even on Darts when it wasn't snow plodding up to your crotch. Looking up the last steep snow slope at the final crux headwall. Climb finishes just left of the obvious pinnacle on the skyline. And the beginning of the two pitch crux at the end of the climb. Which just gets a whole lot thinner and harder the higher you go.

Leashless on everything, with unbilicals of course once you get 70 meters off the ground. Monos on mixed, duals on ice.

This the deal of the month on some great tools.

On the wool thing....I read some where in one of Steve House's interviews that he'd, "never wear wool" and then I read Andy Kirkpatrick's comments on wool. http://www.psychovertical.com/?wool Anyone care to sort this delima out for me Personally I love wool. I have a smart wool zip T I wear as a first layer most of the time. But I also know when you over heat it takes a long time to dry out again with only body heat. When I do get wet House's comments ring loudly as I shiver to get dry. Around town and at home my favorite piece of clothing for nine months of the year is a full zip very lwt merino wool sweater. I also ride a road bike all winter and get a real feel for what does and what doesn't keep you warm when wet and just how fast stuff drys out. My answer? Never sweat! And if you do better be wearing a sythetic What say you?

MEC makes this one as well. Which is very similar to the Ladro. Both have a nicely taylored hood that fits pefectly under a helmet. Ladro adds thumb holes. MEC is called the Ferrata Hoodie Product Number: 5007-957 $115 CAD on sale normally $155 CAD From the MEC web site: "This soft shell jacket offers a superb balance of light insulation, breathability, and weather resistance. The close fitting hood adds an extra degree of warmth and fits snugly beneath a helmet without restricting vision or mobility. The highly abrasion-resistant fabric is blended with spandex to ensure lots of stretch. This is a low-profile garment with just enough insulation to keep you warm in cold weather as long as you stay on the move. The fit is close but not tight – ample room for layering over light or midweight underwear. Even though soft shell garments are suitable for a broad range of weather conditions, we recommend you carry an additional waterproof-breathable shell if you’re travelling for several days or if really nasty weather is expected." And a similar one from Mammut sold by OMC that costs around $200. The REI Ladro is closer to a Arcteryx Gamma Hoody in weight and protection than it is to a Patagonia hoody. Hence my reaction to the $109 cost. Think base layer for the Patagonia and many of the other hoodies mentioned without zips. Think outer layer for the Arcteryx Gamma or the Ladro.

Hoody's? Best I have used as a under layer is the Patagonia Hoody which is now easily available again. If you don't mind being a "girl" REI has a new hoody that has a full zip, thumb holes in the sleeves, nice hood and neck. two zippered slash pockets, under arm gussets, hem draw cord and a athletic, taylored fit. (at least for me) What it really is..is a very technical piece of climbing clothing. It is called the Ladro Hoodie and comes in women's sizes only. (don't be discouraged yet) I generally alpine and ice climb in an Arcteryx Gamma Hoody with a Patagonia hoody under it. The Gamma is wayyyyyyyyy too expensive but an exceptional piece of outdoor gear so I have coughed up the coin twice. (Ebay) The Ladro is made from Polartec Wind Pro, which is a four way super stretchy, water repellant polyester pile, also easily layers under anything else because of the outer "hard" finish. Polartec wind pro is very very similar to the Polartec Power Shield Arcteryx uses in the Gamma MX series. The Ladro makes a decent outer layer in some pretty bad conditions if you are moving. I plan on climbing in the Ladro a lot. And at $109. I won't mind having to buy a second one next season At 6'1" and 200# and can actually wear a womans XL comfortably in the Ladro. Best part is the price was $109. @ full retail. If this piece was from Arcteryx it would be $350 easy. Worth checking out for even if it is "just" for girls if I am any example as just about any guy can get one to fit as well. Black, red or green.

Big enough? We did a trip last winter in the Canadian Rockies that envolved a long day hike to get to the base of a good alpine ice climb. So we had some pins, screws, pons and tools of course and 3 days worth of food. Light bags for the temps and wearing most of our clothes even while moving. BD Firstlight tent and a MSR stove. Twin 8 for ropes. Pretty much the same stuff you'd take any time of year other than the amount of layers to keep warm. So 2/3 days in spring/fall on something like Rainier would be easy with this pack. I detest a heavy sack and still I ended up with just over 50#. Pack was full. So full I was ditching stuff last minute in the parking lot as I packed. The details like the hauling sytem, the "inside" crampon pocket and the waist belt you can change out or pull all together are pretty trick as are the new school tool attachments. But I still took a much smaller/lighter pack to actually climb with. I have used a Wild Things Andinista for years and love it but they could carry better. The MH Dir. is smaller but also carries better for me when completely full. Another pack worth looking at is the larger version of the Cilo work sacs. Recently I did a much lighter version of the Directtissima at Marmot that I would consider as a "climbing" pack. I bought the Directtissima more as a load carring pack than a climbing pack. One of the reasons I thought it would be good for my own use is it appears to be pretty bomb proof in the heavier version.

This may or may not help. I've got a MH Directtissma and like it alot. Tried on (owned more over the years) a lot of similar packs before deciding on this one. Fits very well and carries heavy loads easily for me....way more weight than I'd ever climb with. For even short approaches, with a night out, just to get on winter climbs, I wish I had a slightly bigger pack. Makes a fine pack for longer summer trips. Price was also very good.

GNA is no more. No one there to help you As I said Mtn Tools and other retailers are getting parts and gear direct from Europe.

Just got a new set of points for my Rambos from mtn tools in CA....try a google.

Just curious as to why you didn't consider the newest Rambo?

I for one am not too concerned about these faces going free or on aid. Kinda like climbing the Salathe or the Regular route on Half Dome, ya both go free, most are just happy to get up them. And pull on lots of stuff. Chephren? "Slawinski was at it again, this time with Swiss guide Pierre Darbellay, establishing The Dogleg Couloir (V/VI M7 A1, ca. 1300m) on Mt. Chephren (3307m)" http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswire-rockies-house-slawinski Mt Temple Greenwood/Locke Ben Firth at the top of Pitch 7 during the first winter ascent of the Greenwood-Locke (V 5.8 A2, 1200m, Greenwood-Locke, 1966) on the north face of Mount Temple. Firth and Raphael Slawinski eliminated the aid with modern mixed climbing techniques, freeing the route at 5.9 M6. Feb '04 [Photo]

FWIW the plastic shelf on both the slider and the trigger are the same little 2 piece plastic part. You can cut and contour the plastic quite a bit and come up with a fairly usable support for hand and finger instead of the square block you first bolt on. I used a dremel drum sander and emory paper to shape mine. It made a big difference on support and comfort for any grip (finger or full hand) by making the edges round, and the shelf deeper and wider. The metal width of he band limits how thin you can make it overall vertically and still retain the strength of the plastic shelf. You can still cut it down some and make it more comfortable as a one finger "trigger". For anyone interested this is a great video showing details of Quarks and triggers and a few other tricks being used together on alpine terrain. http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=wbQBKR36R2c&feature=related