Dane

I know this is an old thread but I was looking for some of the Grivel Sliders today in the Internet and came across it. I added a Slider to my Quarks right at the top of the soft plastic handle. Took some effort to grind down the slider on the shaft side and file the bolt hole. Finally got it to bolt up tight, very tight. The slightly higher placement also allows you to use the hammer easily. It also gives more support to the hand or a finger than a trigger, with no worries on glove combinations, all that made it worth the effort of fitting for me.

I obviously missed that one..thanks. http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/lowehannibal/

Already made that comment on Sphinx. When did Geike?

A "lot"? More like a "few" of them, unless you are talking the recently dry tooled routes or did I miss something? All of these routes were originally done between '72 and '88 @ old school 5.9 and A2/3, 20 years ago now, which is my original point of the thread. There are a lot of new hard routes being done in the Rockies, many of them equal or harder than my original list. I would still contend that the original Rockies North faces @ 5.9 A2s are the NA Classics. And those were done between '65 and '78. * new "free" routes with hard M tooling . '82 Assinibone V 5.9 A2 '75 Kitchener V 5.9 A2 or V W5 M6 VS (freed years ago) '74 North Twin VI 5.10+ A1 or all the way to A4 '72 Alberta VI 5.9 A3 (* @ M8x and WI5+ by a new route) '78 *Robson VI 5.9 A2 (* @ M5 or M8 by new routes) '88 Storm V 5.9 A3 '82 Fay V 5.8 W5 and no aid for once! (free) '88 *Temple V 5.9 A2 ( The Sphinx) '87 Chephren VI 5.9 A3 W4 (* M6 via new route) '88 Howse VI 5.9 A3 (*M7 WI6 via new route) '83 *Andromeda V 5.9 A2 W4 (freed years ago) '79 Geike VI 5.10 A3 Not like most worry about pullling on the odd peg or three while on these faces or even doing the same on some of the easier ones also mentioned in this thread. A new picture from John Scurlock this mmorning. Pics below from John Freih's recent trip north to Kitchener and his blog. Or these pics from the ice strip variation on the same climb from Raphael Slawinski's web site.

BINGO...good job Mike! It is the crux of Cascade from '75.

Sorry man, that is not it. Bit further north. I am suprised no one knows this area, with its easy access.

80 degree water ice, 300m long, below tree line and just about everyone that had climbed ice in Canada has done it. While not vertical, the picture is close enough to the actual angle of the crux to be fairly representative. FA done before '73. I use to always finish it on the right side for some reason but lately been getting there from the left. That is sunshine and blue sky so we know it aint awywhere near the coast. But Mt. Ass-shot was a good guess

Good slide show of Diadem N Face - Humble Horse here: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://lh5.ggpht.com/_eokdNyvGL8c/Ru8qqj_TQwI/AAAAAAAAAnQ/Dant_-j8-ss/foto%2B014.jpg&imgrefurl=http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/jGrHlC36q7V7I_qELBqt5A&h=480&w=640&sz=19&hl=en&start=2&um=1&usg=__2QMUm6W-mg6dZmVnfkWg1J3To_8=&tbnid=ew-bWe1upKKoiM:&tbnh=103&tbnw=137&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dhumble%2Bhorse%2Bclimb%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26rlz%3D1T4GWYE_enUS256US263%26sa%3DN

Thanks Chad! I was on SG first week of March in clear but fairly chilly weather. Only ice I actually saw was on the crux (WI3) and it gave great sticks. The rest was lots of snow plodding. In the shade and knee deep snow it was frightenly cold (and a little scary because of avi conditions) compared to waterfall cragging in the area earlier in the week. Did I mention it was cold?!...I was well prepared and been on the Ice fields a lot in winter but this day it was Alaska cold in the gully. Looked pretty much like this but with a blue bird sky. Esugi's picture from later in the month was pretty close to what I had, lots of snow plodding. I had hoped for somemthing more like this And thrilled it really wasn't something like this! (Funny what can be do with a camera isn't it?) Esugi left a good TR and some pic here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=786421 And Andromeda Stain

Chad, awesome pics and NICE route, congrads! I glanced up that way last winter while on Shooting Gallery. From what little I could see it looked cold and hard You'll appreciate this. As I told a buddy the other day when asked what my favorite Rockies climb was, "Don't have one. They are all climbs I'd like to have done. It is the actual climbing part that I'd like to avoid " Robert..more of John's pics of Alberta and the Rockies here: http://www.pbase.com/nolock/cdnrockies&page=2 A favorite of John's: Obviously nothing like Scurlock's but one of mine from a little closer in.

Here is a tic list for the aspiring Alpinist Terrain for the committed. The "grand cour" routes of the Rockies. 5.9 and A2 has recently turned into M6 or M7 on many climbs. Typically Grade Vs that can easily run into a Grade VI. And "5.9?", a number that means nothing to anything in comparison to a sunny rock climb on good rock in shoes...any kind of good rock. Fun to also note all but a couple of these were first done between '72 and '84. Assinibone V 5.9 A2 Kitchener V 5.9 A2 or V W5 M6 VS North Twin VI 5.10+ A1 or all the way to A4 Alberta VI 5.9 A3 Robson VI 5.9 A2 Storm V 5.9 A3 Fay V 5.8 W5 and for once no aid for once! Temple V 5.9 A2 ( The Sphinx) Chephren VI 5.9 A3 W4 Howse VI 5.9 A3 Andromeda V 5.9 A2 W4 Geike VI 5.10 A3 What impresses me is all the classic, hard alpine routes (like Cavell and all but one of the N. Face rotes on Temple) that are Grade IVs and nothing harder than 5.8, even if the rock is generally shitty Go get'um lads! Thanks to John Scurlock for the AWESOME photos he allowes us all access to! Assinibone Kitchener North Twin Alberta Robson Andromeda

Cool report, I had not seen it, thanks. Assinibone? Ya, all that "safety margin" on a Rockies V 5.9 A2 He's only done ..what...six of them by these two reports? And both trips in July. Not like anyone would actually want to do those routes in July. Or that those routes get repeated very often let alone soloed. I still admire Jourdan's skill and his head space.

Ya, amazing in two weeks this guy climbed what many would figure to be a good resume' with a partner. Andromeda by four routes: Skyladder.....the down climbed it Shooting Gallery IV 5.9 WI4 Practice Gully as the decent...down climbed Andromedia Strain with a walk off down AA Col V 5.9 A2 WI5 free Walk over Wooley shoulder and back which typically impresses most. Cromwell via the R&A IV 5.7 Alberta 1/2 the N face,(VI) traversed off and down climbed the NE Ridge (V).....not likely done before or since. Mt Alberta via the Japanese route V 5.6 Edith Cavell...up onto the main face and down climbed because of conditions. IV 5.7 Kitchener's Grand Central Coulior V 5.9 A2 WI5.....in midsummer mind you and free. Howse Peak via the B&K VI 5.9 A3 free. All are some pretty good alpine routes a couple have a reputation for actually being very difficult...10 of them and at least another 5 days just walking in and out for normal folk. Throw in a couple of admitted rest days and some .12 sport climbs a you must have a pretty full 2 week vacation After sorting all that out and having been on some of the terrain I gotta bow down to this guy! Simply amazing to me.

I read about it, watch the awesome stuff on youtube and bug you wankers by posting shit all over the bbs

Just don't be confused Marc...it aint me in those pics!

Couple of guys last week on Rundle......ya I am stoked Can't beat that approach http://www.gravsports-ice.com/icethreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/1675/Main/668/#Post1675

Here is a more recent view..

Awesome post Don, thank you! I was looking for some varification to my own experience. I also started with Chouinard rigids and because of the worry on breakage went to SMCs. Only the addition of clip on bindings convinced me to leave the SMCs behind. So I still have a pair of the last Selewa/Chouinard clipons. That is the crampon that brought me to this discussion. I also have size 12 feet so I know a rigid boot is hard to come by. My last pair of leathers were Haderers. Heavy but my goodness they fit and climbed well. I was pretty shocked last winter playing with different crampons on the same climb. Because of that I have a silly amount of scrap iron and different boot styles in the basement at the moment. One of my first goals this winter is to find a set up (or set ups) that I think does work well in comparison. I am thinking it must be in part our large feet that adds to the issue and turns the "semi/rigid" into "the hinged crampon/boot combos have been a bit sloppy, a touch inaccurate, lacking in fine control." Although I know Frieh's feet are close in size as well. For me a dead rigid boot is mandatory for "fun" ice climbing. The battle between weight and boot sole flexability goes on but. I have found nothing that is as solid and as comforting as a rigid soled boot and a rigid crampon on steep ice or long alpine ice routes. On shorter modern M climbing stuff it hasn't seemed to make a difference. My old stand by combo for rock or "mixed" to 5.10 was plastic boots and hinged crampons so I am not too surprised guess. Having the crampon move bit I suspect does keep you on the rock longer. Either way I'll let you know my impressions after I get a chance to climb on the gear I have here. Thanks again to all for the input.

Looks like a bolt of lightening spliting the baby ass smooth granite above the climber. Awesome looking finger crack? Any idea where it is at?

Sadly this one is now only a shadow of it former self. But just a few years ago it was another classic ice gully!

Yep Mariacher. These came from Mtn Gear. Climb is "Weasles side 2", originally a 1985 trad route, still .11c but recently bolts were added at the crux sections. Nice shoe, beautifully made. I used them one some face climbs but the Fire' Cats or Ballets always fit me better. Funny stuff and a long time agao now

Marc! you aren't old enough to remember those

Some may have seen this on Gadd's sight, well worth a read if you haven't..enjoy! David Dornian wrote the following about Frank Jourdan's summer for the Calgary Mountain Club World News' alpine report in 1994. "A stiff little reminder of what can be accomplished when you put a few caffeine pills into your butt bag, hang a couple of ropes and your shoes off your harness, and get out whilst everyone else is still "waiting for things to come into condition" What did YOU do on your summer vacation? In July, visiting German alpinist Frank Jourdan managed a quick two-week trip to the Canmore/Banff/Jasper corridor to finish off a North American tour. Discovered sleeping in his car at the ACC clubhouse parking lot in Canmore, he was taken into town by staff, coffeed up, and the following amazing tale was extracted in halting English. It seems that a few days previously, Frank had driven north to the Columbia Icefields where he soloed a route he referred to as "Skyladder Direct" on Mt. Andromeda. He then descended the line, crossed the glacier to the northeast, and ascended "The Shooting Gallery". From there, he traversed the summit of Andromeda, climbed down one of the "Practice Gullies" and moved across too the base of "The Andromeda Strain". In the dark now, he ascended the "Strain" by headlamp, carried on past the Andromeda/Athabasca col, over the summit of Athabasca in blowing conditions and what he called "...very strong snow" and arrived back at the parking lot 45 hours after he had left. There's more. Moving north a bit, Frank then soloed the Robinson/Arbic on the North Face of Cromwell. And more... Next, he attempted the North Face of Alberta. Going up without a rope, Frank decided he didn't like the inconsistent nature of the rock band above the icefield, and so he traversed off the face and descended the NE ridge. As a consolation, he bagged the peak by the Japanese Route before returning to the highway. And still more... He drove to Jasper and had a look at the North Face of Edith Cavell, coming down because of wet rock and unconsolidated snow. And finally. Returning south past Mt. Kitchener, where he soloed the Grand Central Couloir - "Only to be climbed ven zer's eis..." - apparently spending over an hour tunneling through the summit cornice. Wait... After resting and cragging around Canmore for a few days, Frank decided that he wanted "...perhaps one more peak" before he headed home to Germany. When he showed up at Acephale around noon on Sunday, looking for Todd, we mercilessly insisted that he have a go on Mirror Stage 12b. Heh, heh. After all, we pointed out to this quiet little guy in the pilled fleece, there was already a rope on it; he might as well give it a shot. Protesting that he was "probably quite tired...", he dutifully pulled on a pair of shoes and sent the rig first try. A little while later, he did the same to Bleu du Ciel 12b, loosing his feet during the hideous sloper match at the crux and simply pulling up and locking off while he reached across for the next crimp edge in the sequence. Now willing to let him be our friend, we engaged Frank in conversation. Turns out he had spent the day before climbing the Blanchard/Robinson on the North Face of Howse Peak, avoiding the A3 chimney and block via the ice in the gash out right (which he admitted was slow going and "very technical" [and which Peter Arbic, the only other person to go that way, reportedly characterizes as "Death" - ed.] and had been forced to sleep on the mountain that night, prior to descending and running up to meet us at the crag. Dave Dornian"

Had a similar discussion about that just the other day. It is true. Not taking anything away from Mugs or Paul mind you. They, (Mugs) had the stones to actually pull it off. Realising now what they were dealing with and the gear used makes the climb all that more impressive to me. But when they started rapping from the top of the butt all of us (lame asses) sitting @ the air strip on the glacier by that time were thinking a rescue was going to have to be mounted shortly ...and no one was excited about that. Made for a big party when they hit the glacier again under their own power. Mugs may have poached the route and not "finished" the climb but they took the level of committment higher than any of us thought was possible or at least willing to try. I remember a conversation that Mark Twight related to me that he had had with my partner from that trip...when Brad accused Mark of poaching "his" line by climbing Deprivation. Joking or not Mark wasn't all that pleased by the accusation and I could hardly blame him. Big difference between going on a climb with all the parties hopping the 'shrund on the same day and the difference of 13 years! I didn't go back. (it was my second try at what was to become Twight/Backes' route, Deprivation, and it was obvious to me that we weren't up to the crux with lwt gear in '78 or '82) Below is a pic from one of the fun, 70 to 80 degree, lower ice strips that runs on and on. The red slashes near the ice on the climber are the red plastic bot plates on his Footfangs for a referenec as to how steep it is. In '79 Doug Klewin, Pat McNerthney and Todd Bibler gave it a try. Then in '80 WPOD showed up for their second try, which was Doug Klewin, Pat and Dan McNerthney and Rob Newsom. They got to the base of the Shaft before being literally blown off the MTN in a storm. In '81 the foursome was back (as Back in Black) set to do some wall climbing. They had a portledge (they had ditched the Bibler I Tents) problem before the prow, went down to fix it and had to suffer through watching Mugs and Paul finish "their line". I think it was Rob Newsom in his southern drawl who said to me..."sheet that is like having to watch some guy fuck your old lady". But it could have been said by any of us staring up at the butt those couple of days. But Dougie aka Druggie, aka Doug Klewin and Todd Bibler came back the next year with much lighter gear (Bibler I Tents again) and completed the first complete ascent to the summit with the classic start. Newsom and Pat McNerthney came back and finished the line to the summit as well. Making the 1st and 2nd ascents of the entire line. NW hard guys were poached, but they had the ultimate payback, just didn't get the glory Mugs was obviously a great climber and very nice guy but the BIB gang are the heros imo if for nothing else than determination. Others tried the route as well during that time frame, among them, Gary Bocarde, Dale Bard, Charlie Porter, Jim Bridwell, Brad Johnson, Kim Momb. Muggs was the niciest guy and if any of us had asked him to wait I suspect he would have. BIB went up and came down with portaledge problems. Seemed fair...now Mugs got his chance and to almost everyone's surprise kept going to the top of the butt. But the truth is, as good as the climbers involved were, Mugs just was mentally a whole lot stronger that particular month in '81. He was originally planning on soloing the route!