Dane

Drunk and disorderly, 4th degree assault, 4th degree criminal mischief (the window) and minor in Possession. I'd be really pissed and find something else to stack on there just for the amount of paperwork required. May be "being stupid" for still being there Oh, and I forgot. There are 1/2 dozen of really fun, easy to learn, very effective, single strike, fight stoppers" that can be used to end this kind of nonsense. They leave no marks generally and draw almost no attention, other than the poor soul on the recieving end. Worth getting that kind of education imo if you like beer pong.

Some good comments. The best is likely "you never know what someone else brings to the party". And I don't weapons but skill. The flip side is having the skill means you can decide when and where to use it. Your choice. And really the real "power" in any situation. Law Enforcement? Something you really need to think about these days. If you think a punch needs to be thrown, be sure to throw the first one. And don't go in light. Things generally go down hill rapidly from that. These days DV calls (which is what you would have been labeled) typically REQUIRE someone or all involved go to jail. Throw the first punch and it gets really hard to articulate to a LEO/Judge/jury how you were innocent in all of this. Which, trust me you will be required to do a number of times. You REALLY want to past the first "smell test" of the arriving LEO's interview. His original notes are what the Prosecutor, Judge and jury will eventually look at. The key is to be able to articulate the incident well and why you are totally innocent. But not making first contact generally will have you coming in second physically if your opponent is even remotely skilled/experienced. Even with a disparity of force between a 200# guy and a 160# guy. Flip side to that is any use of force where LE is involved, will also immediatly look at that same disparity of force/size/age between you and him. Automatically, until proven other wise, BIG guy will be the guilty one. SOP LEO script for a violent confrontation. You did the right thing, no harm no foul. Words aint going to hurt you even if they do sting a bit. And the less you say the less likely you'll provoke the situation further. A window is trival compared to the loss of your civil rights long term and the risk of serious injury. (any physical confrontaion risks SERIOUS physical injury) "Choose your friends and acquaintances carefully, stay out of dangerous situations, and constantly hone and develop your intuition and ability to sense and recognize even the hint of trouble. There are always other alternatives, many possibilities, to one whose heart and mind, as well as eyes and hand, are open." Well said, not always that easy to do between 15 and 35. But really good advice. "I like "drop the burrito and walk away" or my favorite, "the Nike defense", better though I've seen what can be done with a ping pong ball at a really good party....some scary shit! You are lucky itwas just a window

I've worn out a pair of the Minus Ones and one of the Hydra as well. Been using them for a couple of seasons. So not the newest versions. I use a XL in both and found the fit to be acceptable. I use the Hydra almost every where until it gets too cold (very cold?) and then I like the Typhon

Oh, trust me, it is a bad idea.

Big fan of the Nomic myself and use it in places I really shouldn't. The extra security and added speed they allow in the right conditions makes them generally worth it. Generally. But easy to make a case for a more classical axe when (heaven forbid) you want to chop a step (with adze and pick) or do a boot axe belay. Both of which I like to do a lot of on mtns like Rainier. Neither is something a Nomis is worth a shit for. For self arrest most can manage with anything from a 45cm up. But the longer the axe the easier it is. 60s cover most any use, a 65 or 70 sometiems even better. I actually practice every spring with my shorties (45/48 and a 50) just to remind myself if you need the axe you'll want to be quick with it and secure. But I think it is a mistake to assume the tools under discussion aren't "real" ice tools, they are. None of them are a Nomic for sure and in the right conditions and terrian a Nomic is sweeet! But most places a mtneer will be going (short of hard technical ice) the "classic" will easily get you up, off and be more useful in many ways the entire trip. There is little hard technical ice in the mtns most of the year. I've climbed Libery for example with a single 55cm straight shafted axe several times mid summer. I hope to do it again in the future with a single Summit or Airtecch.

Just my thoughts and many will not agree I suspecct. Like Daniel I have done a ton of classical mtneering like Liberty, Ptarmigan and Curtis Ridges with a classic mtneering axe and one type of hammer or another. Climbed a lot fo WI3 and a bit of WI5 with them as well. So I know the classic tools are easily up to the task. Tools like the Sumtec, Grivel offers one as well (Jorasses?) are neither fish not foul to me. If I want a truely technical axe I want more. Like a Quark, Cobra or Nomic. But for most summer stuff in the Cascades and some of it in Canada I really like a short "classic" axe. The Petzl Summit is good, but the slick shaft on the Airtech series makes some sense as well. Classic pick curves seem easier for me to self arrest with. Bigger heads liek what SMC offers are a LOT easier to self arrest with but the tools are heaier as well last I checked. Hard to go wrong with any of those mentioned.

I like the Grivel Air Tech Evo or Carbon...with a hammer to match. I'm 6'1" and use a 48 to 60 depending on what I am doing. 60 is nice on Rainier. But 48cm seems to go every where with me.

White, I tried to make an honest comparison of the specific packs we had on hand and that I saw over a month or so of climbing almost every day this spring. As I mentioned in the blog I didn't want my effort there to be a love fest for the maker of my personal packs or a roast of any particular pack maker I felt not up to the quality that should be expected. In fact I went out of my way to keep the blog post positive by not adding more pictures. Prices are generally a consideration for most. Even when I was short on a few pennys to rub together I never let cost sway me from buying the best. Hopefully the pack articles will be read as they were intended and smart readers will find the maker that best suits their own needs. And that statement is about as politcally correct and off topic to the original question as I'll ever be in public

Here is a different take on climbing packs: part 1 fitting http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2012/04/fitting-and-detailing-on-climbing-packs.html part 2 quality http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2012/04/climbing-packs-part-2.html Part 3 the basics http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2012/04/climbing-packs-part-3.html

Hey guys, not the perfect fit but certainly useable in the 6" 220# range, Petzl HIRUNDOS and ADJAMA. I did a lot of climbing at that weight or more in those same harnesses. I used both in a Large. 190# or so now thanks to a crash chemo diet. Which I don't recommend. Have to say my HIRUNDOS does fit better today though. Not enough better to buy a med but close

THAT is pretty foooking cool! Congrads guys!

Use your imagination

Some just don't know how to ask politely and don't ask twice

Fook me running it is LIAR not LIER for a start. I am not the best speller in the world but even I got that one. Physical restraint as in a leash is common...unleashed and "restrained" as in voice command is a totally different deal. Obviously Sasha was not under voice command. Either way Sasha's owners were not in compliance with what ever the "law" is in Oly Nat. Forest. They are still irresponsible idiots. May be they should join in this thread as well. If you two want to have a battle of whits ya all should have at least come armed. Rocky would have done control bites on both of you by now. I'd be inclined to let him chew on ya at his descretion after that

I had a pretty heated discussion this week with another climber. I know this is spray and all but the word "Lying" is a pretty strong accusation in any context. I prefer "miscommunication" unless the stronger version is actually required for context. Life is short and thank God we are only talking about something trivial like climbing

I believe I learned something today. And it would appear Daniel is correct. A leash law is in effect on Mt. Ellinor. http://www.nps.gov/olym/planyourvisit/pets.htm "Leashed pets are allowed on trails in Olympic National Forest. Please note that this is a different entity than Olympic National Park." http://www.petfriendlytravel.com/?page=national_parks#Washington Olympic National Forest: "Pets on a leash are allowed on trails in Olympic National Forest."

Likely few canines that have climbed major routes...hence elite dogs (routes).

Cody is my kind of dog. And a sick send by the "dog" route. Now that we have a clear translation it doesn't seem like elitist apinism. Obviously both are better than the average bear. Which would seem almost humbling to most bears.

There is more to the story: http://www.kitsapsun.com/news/2011/jul/10/rescuers-save-dog-who-tumbled-off-mountain/ Leah law or not...and I don't believe there is one here. I believe the owners of Shasha were/are irresponsible twits with a dog and in the mountains. Mt Ellinor's winter route, which I suspect was the July route last summer when this happened: "Use extra caution when climbing the chute, especially when it is cloudy and foggy as the rocks are extremely slick when wet. Check on avalanche conditions before beginning the climb. Ice axe, boots, and the ten essentials are necessary. Conditions can change very rapidly and the chute can be hazardous even in good weather." Not huge fan of leash laws generally. But understand why they are there. But really get annoyed at dumb asses who can't control their dogs. If that takes a leash so be it. Nothing wrong with actual voice control either. Which mine are one way or the other. I get even more annoyed for the bozo...screaming "leash law!" when it doens't apply by law or the dog's actions. Happens in my neiborhood occasionally in fact. I'd like to bite them myself. Last time it happened here I had a chat in person with my lovely neighbor about such antics. That was the first day I figured I'd really live through the chemo Try your local off leash park for a hand full of stupid pet owners.

Ah, the goat chasing dog from last year? Ya, I was thinking the owners of the dog should have been tossed off that cliff myself. I intentionally stayed out of that conversation. OK so you like dogs but only in the right circumstances? Fair enough. In the wrong situation like the dumb asses who lost their bernese mtn dog for a few days it is like letting your children play in the middle of a busy freeway. It is cruel to the animal and irresponsible. Stupid pet owners really piss me off. May be even more than stupid non pet owners.

Ok I just have to ask...what is up with you two and dogs? Daniel why are you mean to dogs? Nastia what constitutes a "dog" route to you? In the old days I'd let Rocky talk to you both. He was a 125# male Doberman that got cut as a 2 year old thank God. Because he was a hand full as a mature male. Loved the brute but I don't think he would have tolerated your nefarious attitudes

Anytime..and congrads. You'll now have a really squared away set up for most any condition on any mountain in the lower 48. Be fun to eventually hear what YOU think of the gear.

I agree with Bill. Lots of jackets out there now that perform better than my EB Frontpoint. But at the time..going on 4 years ago now it was one of the best I had used and I liked it a lot. Which retailed on sale for $125 btw DryQ Elite and some of the other new fabrics were only samples even a few years ago. Most impressive fabric I have used to date, while testing all sorts of current shells both soft and hard is a specific Neoshell. The Neoshell in the soft version is changing the way I dress for climbing.

That was some nice hero ice you got to climb on. By Tuesday things had changed a bit with 50F temps at Rampart for two days. Climax slides to the ground were common. Including down both Guiness and Carlsberg. Then a couple of feet of snow Friday and Sat in Lake Louise sent the avi conditions through the roof again. -17C at Rampart i nthe morning and 12C by mid afternoon. Icefields highway was closed because of the slides crossing the roads. Much of what you had climbed had fallen down or was melted out by mid week. Count yourself very lucky for a Late March trip But good on ya for getting it done!