Dane

"the FA of Sea of Vapours WI7+ (which sounds more like WI6+R/X to me)" Had this conversation recently. Anyone ever repeated SoV in similar thin conditions? Steck maybe..but the climb has soem fixed gear nwo as well. This stuff is so condition dependant. Ratings should be a warning of what you are getting into not chest beating. I'd take this one as a warning YMMV, 'cuz I aint gonna get on it! A lot, as in a lot more ice, between Curtian Call or Nemisis in hard, thin conditons compared to this thing from the pictures of Chucky shared and having been on the others (two of the three).

"giving some props to two great guys" Three. Scott Coldiron was there and climbed it as well.

Dude, I've climbed it, kinda proves it aint M7. I didn't rate it, just quoting the Internet guide book M6+/M7? Now we are cutting some short hairs aren't we John? I thought you might be at Banks lake this morning. Mile marker 11.1? Instead of giving me shit on the Internet.

Had the same question myself of Craig on the WI7 before I published. As well as the M8, Since we are talking 5.11+/5.12 in difficulty here. Line was done free on the second ascent. Aided some the first ascent, when the fixed pro was originally placed. I haven't seen this rig in person. and I am a big believer that it is hard to justify anything harder the WI4 in most places. Vertical is vertical after all. The typical Canadian arguement back to the early '80s by the guys doing the hardest ice in the world at the time. But if you look at Nemisis (WI5/6?) and then the typically harder Curtain Call (WI6) as standards to the grade this looks a wee bit harder Add the fact that "Chucky" is in the WA desert and the temps and ice quality are never shall we say.."perfect"? The first pitch looks like a longer and much nastier version of Hyalites' Home Field Advantage M7 WI5. From discussions no one more excited about seeing a second free ascent than the guys who put this one up. I had suggested sand bagging the technical rating just to avoid this kind of discussion. After more converstaion they decided M8 WI7 was a sand bag! None of these guys are posers. The X grade is real even with the "fixed" pro. You can figure out the rest I'd wait for the 2nd free ascent party to voice their own opinion before questioning the grade. Short drive from Vancouver

Good picture. In the grand scheme of things that aint even a big one for that basin. That size of avi happens a half dozen times in a normal winter and can almost/ or fill in that hole where the lake is next to your people in the picture. And that is just one of the MAJOR slide paths that end up at the lake. Just sayin Bad place to be in the wrong conditions.

A fun one to write up. Congrads guys! More here: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/02/chuck-norris-and-mortal-m8rx-wi7-90m.html

Nice pack. Cool web site!

Did mine, still does and is the one book I recommend to anyone wanting to get into or get better at alpinism. It is *THE* the fast track on the learning curve. That said even though I was climbing hard in the alpine before Twight even picked up an ice axe. My guess is everyone on this thread and a majority of the members here on cc.com own a copy.

Agreed Monty..Gadd certainly should have been listed there as well. Will is hard not to like in person or his writing. Thanks for pointing that out, my mistake. Historically I think it is pretty tough to look at climbers you have known personally and make a good assessment of their contributions. "Alex MacItyre interview in High. Reading the exploits of kurtyka. True these guys aren't NA but they did change climbing. Had that group never existed climbing would be different. Had Twight never existed climbing would be essentially the same." Certainly you got the first half of that right. I would disagree on the 2nd.

"Those that have most influenced alpine/ice climbing in the last 50 years for us in North America?" Just my take on the last 50 years of "influence". Influence not their climbing resumes. Who in the community made a difference to me...and by my own experience and assumptions the bigger community at large. I've known many of the players in NA alpinism in the last 40 years personally. Of those few have directly influenced several generations to any extent...in my opinion of course. Yours may be different for any number of reasons and just as valid to you. Any form of cyber media? Different context. But I might agree with that idea. CC.com? Once you filter through all the bs here (as any forum is prone to) it can be a good resource. If one wants to bother.

Matt my list is the guys who have most influenced alpine and ice climbing in NA not the guys that were the best ice or alpine climbers in the last 40 years. Sure the four I have listed climbed. But much more importantly to the sport IMO they wrote about it. They taught by writing. House no doubt climbs really hard. He has certainly climbed harder or as hard as anyone listed. But as a public figure or a writer he has a very small profile IMO compared to the rest at the moment. I really liked House's first book. Bought early copies for myself and friends. Certainly easier for me to read than most of Mark's stuff. And in conversation I know House has some big plans for upcoming writng projects. I am excited about them! I would expect Steve House to walk into that arena shortly and add a couple of big steps to our knowledlge base. But he has yet to do it. I have no doubt he has the ability and drive to get it done. My bet is we have a lot to look forward to when it happens.

Bullied? Truth is I got a fair dose of it. And I over react when I see it now becasue of that experience. Sorry Mike Those that have most influenced alpine/ice climbing in the last 50 years for us in North America? Long list but four IMO stand head and shoulders above the rest. The reason...but not the only reason....is they made the effort to write. Chouinard Jeff Lowe John Bouchard Twight

No actually you don't. If you did we would all know who you are. Who are you anyway Lazy? You don't really believe that, because if it was lazy, everyone would do it. Give Twight his due...you either love his shit or hate it and hate him. Likely few inbetween. For fun name the three most influencial contributors to the NA alpine climbing community over the last 40 years. I have a short list. What is yours?

He also admitted to leaving the stove and gear on the Solvak and how shattered they all were just getting back to 14. Not letting the fact that 13 years later no one has come close to accomplishing the same thing on the route mind you. Love the rumors. Facts are little more specific. Typical recommended dose of Diamox is now a "tanked on a bag full of drugs" somehow?

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/01/what-cheaters-have-done-to-us.html Add to that list Diamox for clients, guides and the idoits on Rainier. Did it myself on occasion bitd but agreed with Twight on this and would take the label of cheater even further now obviously.

Springs can degrade over time. But that will become obvious right off skiing them if it is a problem. Ski'um and enjoy!

The skiing in sunshine today was better.

"This is not the gear you are looking for" Move along now Good story on the Goatee above that is more interesting and a shorter drive.

No, even cooler! The DyNA boots are lighter THAN ANY current ice boot on the market buy a good bit. Batura 2.0 is the current record holder just under the Trango Extreme Evo. Newest Scarpa Rebel Ultra will beat everything listed to date for a fabric traditional styled ice/mtn boot. Going to be darn close to the DyNA for weight. May be even better it at 700+gs in a 45. I'll know more on that shortly. It is all very exciting. Weights posted are actual in my size 45s. La Sportiva Batura 2.o. 2#2oz / 970g La Sportiva Trango Evo Extreme GTX 2#3oz (35oz) / 992g Scarpa Phantom Ultra new 2010 model 2#3.5oz (35.5oz) / 1006g Scarpa Phantom Guide new 2010 model 2#7.5oz / 1120g La Sportiva Batura 2nd gen. 2#9oz / 1170g La Sportiva Nepal Evo 2#10.5oz / 1205g The DyNA is 870g per boot or 1.9 POUNDS....1 # 14oz or 30oz! Dropping a full 10oz per pair off my size 45 from the lightest FABRIC ice climbing boot! They have been freakin amazing to climb ice in if you like a stiff boot. I always have. Like climbing in a old Kolfach pretty much. Pluses and minus to that. Fit is and warmth is better on the DyNA. And a true double with a heat moldable and removable liner.

Just pants Jason. There is a once piece but I aint that fast or Euro enough even in my feeble mind Cale, all the TLT/DyNA series will easily climb Grade 5/6 ice. The boots just keep getting lighter.

870g per boot in my size 45/29. Big drop on weight again. The DyNA versions are a lighter ski-mo race boot. I just got a new pair specifically for climbing. Stripped version of the yellow TLT Ps but basically the same boot minus any weight they could shave and still have the boot ski well.

Brian, packing up today. Gotta decide what all to bring! Cale? What no style points for matching sun glasses,helmet and top? New boots are blue and white. They'll match better. Just not here yet. It all makes me laugh! Tough crowd

Come on Gene, ya got more to say I know ya do! Matt this look more familiar? Jan. 1973, Canada. A full 40 years ago now! More the fashion of the late '80s in Bozeman! Things have gone full circle in many ways here.

That is correct! If you haven't used lycra on rock or even better the newest Euro stuff in the alpine or ice you have no clue on what you are missing. Troglodytes that don't yet climb leashless need not apply! Yep, those are Nomics on moderate alpine terrain, soloing in ski boots and risking life and limb with a another BD stainless horizontal failure. Ya gotta dig the matching shirt and glasses though, right Discuss? Or disgusted

Pretty sure this dude was giving me the finger today