Dane

The Arcteryx Atom SV and Patagonia Micro Puff are 100g jackets. The Atom Lt or the Patagonia Nano Puff series are 60g. I did a review on the SV last spring and the Atom LT previous to that. Nano Puff is in there as well I think.

I am not a huge fan of EB in general. But in the last 3 years I have had many if not most of the better brand name insulated climbing jackets in my hands if not on my back and made detailed comparisons between them, both down versions and the synthetics. I haven't seen the lack of quality in the XV (materials used or workmanship) that you seem to have. You can make any comparison you like...as I have with over a dozen jackets with the same intended use. The EB XV and lighter version, the Guide jacket can hold their own in any comparison of quality, workmanship and materials used. This was my first look. I have not changed my mind on the VX since that was written. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/02/belay-jacketsthe-heavy-weights.html In fact on review and more jackets used since I still am impressed enough to write this. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/11/eddie-bauer-peak-xv-jacket.html I suspect the problem is you don't know what the quality fabrics that are required for lwt climbing gear and are using the XV as a "walk about town" jacket. Any number of jackets of lesser quality would be more appropriate there instead of a high tech, lwt, jacket inteneded for 7K meter peaks. Your other choice, the Marmot 8000m jacket, weights 18oz heavier on an actual scale than the XV. So much for the published weights. Wild Things, Belay Jacket, 34oz pre 2010 / 963g Eddie Bauer XV 38.5oz / 1091g MEC Tango, 31.7oz / 898g Patagonia DAS (new) 36.9oz / 1046g Arcteryx Duelly 28oz / 794g Narrona Lyngen 26oz / 737g Narrona Trollveggen 37.5oz / 1063g Arcteryx Atom Hoody SV 19.0 oz / 538g Mountain Hardwear Compressor Hoody Primaloft 1 19.8oz / 561g Mammut Ambler 47.2oz / 1338g

Daniel is on the right track. But I think even two is too limited. "Rainer this summer...Orizaba, Kili, Aconcagua" I've been working on a project/review over the last year that is a multilayers/multiuse cold weather system based on a 60g and 100g insulation set up. DAS is 170g in comparison. I have used up to 4 layers or 280g plus the resulting eight layers of nylon shell material that comes with it. 3 layers @ 60g and one at 100g. Surprized actually at just how easy/well the system works and can be so easily regulated for mid winter technical climbing at altitude, a cold bivy or a quick ascent of Rainier in summer or Fall/Spring alpine climbing. One garment at a time makes the buy in easier and the mutilayers should give you a lot of use/durability over the long haul. I have a good many choices in the closet and find myself actuallly using this system full time these days. Simply because it is the lightest, breathes the best and is the easiest to pack. Generally 2 layers of 60g. When it is really cold I'll add the 100g as a third layer. A fourth for bivies. More to come shortly on the blog.

"Anyways my guess is that the price of Eddie Bauer Peak XV is low because the fabrics are cheap and of lower quality" Your guess is incorrect. Nothing cheap or low qiua;ity about the Peak XV besides the price if you buy it on sale.

I place gear most winters that I know will get reused. That tat gets a chain link on ice because of it. True Alpine stuff is different. How often will it get followed and reused without inspection? I look for gear to make that easier FOR ME...how much I can carry, how easy is it to tie and cut. V threads with no tat are cool in the mtns if they work for you. V threads on well used water falls with chain links installed are cool as well. V threads lacing up walls of ice might be handy but they are unsightly and take some of the pleasure out of it for me.

"A far more talented pair of climbers than you" "You haven't yet mentioned my TR count..." If TRs are now how you win dick measureing contests they ought to at least be about something worth bragging on and be better than the girl's Least you be unable to look the other boys in the eye. Only an idiot trusts someone else's V threads no matter the tat size. How freakin hard is it to make your own V thread? Answer? Not very. Hell, on occasion I even allow my partners to make them. Looked at a video recently of a mostly US crew bailing on a big alpine route and every v thread (and every rock anchor) had a single biner left to run the rope through. Not like I have any intention of taking or leaving 10/20 or 30 spare biners. But they did. Steve House on K7 btw. Worth thinking about. FWIW I have and have used a Candella and the nasty little wire fooker the Canadians sell. The wire rope and fish hook sliced open a finger digging around in my pack several winters back in -20 temps. Took for ever to get the blood stopped. Haven't... won't use it again. I do carry pre cut tat though. If I use tat at all. Depends on the ice conditions. Water falls get tat. Alpine sometimes. Daniel said it all better with less words. Hard to believe we lived (and haven't written a TR on it) but my partner and I once rapped a dozen or so times of BOLLARDS (both snow and ice) getting off the North butt of Hunter. Saw Jeff Lowe mentioned them in a film as well. Sketchy imo, even compared to 1/2" tape V threads.

I've been using several Neoshell garments for a year now. It is not hype....it works as advertised, may be even better. Several reviews and a comparison to other technologies in the NW rain on my blog.

For those that met Jack last year in Cham I put this together today. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2012/01/jack-roberts-climber-1953-2012.html

We'll miss ya Jack. The ride is never long enough. Best to Pam and his family.

Damn scary to watch for a number of reasons. But not a group I would want to ski with....unless you can hold your breath for 4 full minutes. Lucky indeed.

It is the logical line.

I use a Petzl Hirundos year around as well as a gear sling if required. I simply copied a few others I know who found the Hirundos before me. You can't miss the colors. And yes the Hirundos two clipper slots. As a really simple harness...not my thing though..I like the Blue Ice Choucas harness. Likely the easiest in and out with skis or over crampons.

Chinese dudes that don't climb with a air powered wrench is the problem. But he is right "you are weak' just for asking

dude..you're killing me.

Time is catching up with us Bill. Last ice climb was a day's walk from the truck....me with the mutiple choices in gear and all. I some how didn't bring gloves Left two, yes two, brand new pair in the truck. Made the trip a little short.

I didn't want to say anything 'cuz I felt bad for ya having lost a rack myself once back in ancient times when it meant more Now I am just embarrassed for your sadly senior moment...and not even a retired NFL player (are you?) as an excuse

Big fan of the OR Vert as well. Full retail is $50 and the newest resign is even better this year than last. The ExtroVert is another great option. I use both, climbing and skiing.

Wayne I think your topo for the start of Pineapple and BM is wrong as well by the look of it. Looks to me that you can see the first corner pitch of Pineapple in your photo. Straight up from the "E" in "around the corner" I think. Lower lines of Pineapple and BM need to come right as well. Pleanty of guys have done these now, so may be they will jump in with their own thoughts. Good first effort So I aint bitchin.

Nice guys! That looks so fat and fun right now. I am so jealous!

I've guided dozens of people up Rainier by more than half a dozen routes. The most successful trips were three days or longer and all with a extra camp at 11 or 12K feet. If you want to be successful and actually enjoy the trip take the extra height and time. Just one extra day at altitude will make a huge difference for any of us flat landers on summit day.

Here ia more in depth review on the Lynx and some decent comments as well that are worth reading. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/11/petzl-lynx-crampon-part-duex.html

Thanks everyone for the well wishes. It really means a lot to me. And truly something I never expected from either side, mine or yours. Just the way I had always thought until recently. "How is it going?" This is bleak you may not want to read it. I wouldn't have 5 months ago. Cancer as you may have heard is an ugly disease. It has killed family members and over half the dogs I have had in my life. I hated it then. Now I know it a little better. Hate isn't the right descriptor. I've done what even I condsidered a few things that were hard physically....but nothing even remotely compared to the first two rounds of chemo. I don't say that to play the tough guy because I definaly am not tough. 80 year old women come through this easier than I have. Both Chemo rounds have brought me to my knees, shattered me physically and mentally, turning me into a wimpering puking hull. In the middle of chemo I cry like baby daily. I am now down 20% of my body mass and will likely bottom out at a 25%+ loss in less than 12 weeks. Tough? No one knows how tough they really are until they get this hammered. I am not tough. Far from it. Like the amazing support offered here, neighbors have mowed my lawn, driven me to daily radiation treatments and customers has stopped worring about deliveries. It has helped...a lot. I think each and every one of you. Today I have 8 rounds of daily radiation left and 1 round of Chemo. I am far enough away from the last round of chemo I can talk, write and walk and feel pretty good...thankfully. It goes literally day by day what I can do. No reason that I can see. I will likely be sick a full 21 days this round of chemo (starts Monday) and another full month after that to get a good start on my recovery and literally learn how to swallow and eat again. Up side is I'll be a strong and light weight climbing fool if I ever decide to risk my fragile life again (likely) and my wife lets me out of the house . But this experience and the real ability of how to suffer for days on end isn't something I hope to easily forget. Hopefully I learn something profound from this....other wise it is a huge waste. Thanks again to everyone...make sure to say hi next time we meet in the mtns!

I have a new personal definition of "best", it is the Petzl Lynx. I have yet to publish that specific review as to why. New Ranbo IV is good though no doubt, just too heavy imo. If weight is no concern there is likely nothing better for step technical terrain than the Rambo. Dartwin is still one of my go to crampons for everything/ any terrain or difficulty. But if buying new I would buy the Lynx. Lynx is not the lightest crampon around but likely the best all around crampon for any terrain that we as consumers have seen in a LONG time.

Don't be fooled, they are bigger and warmer than singles but the Baruntse is every bit as good as any of the modern double boots Spantik and 6000 included on any technical ground. I happen to think the inner boot on the Baruntse is better than either of the other two...most that have them agree. Mtn Tools and MEC Wildline Insulated Gore‑Tex Gaiters (Unisex) is all I know of.

Over boots suck for technical climbing. Keeping your crampons on becomes an issue. Super gaiters are a better choice.