Dane

Saw the newest "light" version DAS parka over the weekend at the local Patagonia store. Not the old DAS! More than a few designers have realised a lwt jacket is a better option for most. From Parkin's web site. http://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/ "Hi Andy, I was reading an old article in High where you suggested an optimum outfit for alpine winter was shelled microfleece (e.g. vapour-rise), shelled pile (e.g. buffalo) and a duvet on top (DAS or similar). At the time, the likes of the DAS Parka, Montane Bivvy, Lowe Alpine Heatseeker, etc. all had had 250-300g of their own-brand insulation. The latest version of the DAS though has 170g Primaloft insulation. (Similiar to a Haglofs Barrier Zone Hoody jacket I have with 170g insulation). Ignoring the hype, is Primaloft that good that it is just as warm with half the insulation? Or do we all not feel the cold as much?! 170g doesn’t seem to be very thick to be suitable as your stand-alone piece of insulation. So thought I’d ask how you find the latest jackets, with your experience. Cheers It’s true that the original synthetic belay jackets - like the Patagonia DAS parka - had a much heavier weight of insulation, and most modern designs feature a lighter weight, but I think in all but the most extreme of conditions this weight may be more appropriate, offering a better balance between weight, bulk and warmth. Worn over a standard layering system - especially the softshell system I described - these lighter parkers will still do their job of keeping you warm when static in normal climbing scenarios (belaying, abseling, biving). The heavier weight parkers worked better in more extreme situations, such as super cold (Alaskan winter or high altitude mountaineering), or for super extended belaying. I’ve used the old school DAS parker in the Ruth Gorge in Winter (temps reaching -50), and super long belays in frigid spots, while people like Steve House used his all the way to the top of Nanga Parbat. So what if you want a system that will do both duties, but will still offer the same degree of warmths and protection? If you have a specific need (big walling in Baffin for example), I’d recommend getting a bespoke belay jacket from someone like PHD, who could take their existing Zeta jacket and double up the insulation. A more flexible option would be to have a layered approach to your booster layer, perhaps layering up a hooded midweight synthetic hooded jacket with a micro loft down jacket (or gilet), perhaps even modifying both so they can be linked (velcro, poppers or toggles). With this you’d wear your basic outer belay jacket for rough and dirty action (wet snow, belaying etc), and save the down layer (stowed in a small drybag) for bivying, super long belays or extreme cold action."

Buy new gloves...sewing them up and seam sealer aint going to make them "good enough" is my guess. Gloves are cheap (grand scheme of ice gear) and as you are learning I suspect... you'll want at least two pair of the same model if you fins one you like. I like having 3 pair of the same glove yo go through on a trip or just on one climb. MX Hoody?....wash it and then only wash it ONCE a season. I've put a can of Scotch Guard into mine end of the season and that seems to make it through till the end of next season. Just make sure you do it outside! Dru's comment "wash it with ReviveX", might well be a better solution. Also be worth calling Alteryx up on monday and asking them what they suggest. For a $400 jacket you would think they'd have a quick solution

Aconcagua is a whole other world than Denali. If you were heading to Alaska instead of to Argentina I'd wouldn't hesitate to recommend the Intuition liners. In decent late spring conditions the Intuitions with no over boots will often be enough to summit in. But just barely..for me. They absorb very little moisure and easily dry out in your bag within a few hours. They are wonderful to put on in the morning! I found life on Aconcagua easier at 20K feet than it is on Denali at 11K feet. Denali you are on snow when you step off the plane till you get back on one. Aconcagua, 3 or 4 days at most on snow should do it and the rest all on gravel trails. In those conditons (gravel trails) Intuition liners would be really hard on my feet. I've always used some type of trail shoe or trail runner to at least 17.5K (Condor) on the reg route on Aconcagua. Been to Berlin camp several times carrying loads in just runners and heavy wool soxs (18.900'). You'll really appreciate using a light shoe on the walk in and up to around 16K' on the Polish route where you'll generally hit snow. YMMV with conditions

Great story David!

If your fit is marginal in the Koflach then a well fitted Intuition can be a fun thing. But they are not required on Aconcagua by any means. And with as much walking as is requirded I's stick to the orginal liners if they fit well.

Almost....official start to ice season? John Frieh logging flight time in 'pons. Two and counting Great TRs with everyone climbing in Hylite so early. Thanks!

No, it is not worth the extra $100 if you are on a tight budget. Viper is an exceptional tool at a great price point. Cobra is an exceptional tool if price is not an issue. How good is the Viper? A buddy of mine lead or soloed every pitch of Polar Circus last winter with Vipers. While not a climb I really consider "alpine" (more a long crag climb) it should give you an idea of just how good they are on water ice. Pick angle on the Viper is just a tiny bit less than the Cobra...a design feature that was intentional making it slightly more user friendly on less than vertical terrain. While stronger and more rigid the carbon fiber shaft won't take the day in day out abuse the hydroformed alumminum will. If you want another take on the the Viper/Cobra in the alpine look to Will's comments here. His previous tools were Vipers I believe. Also doesn't take much looking around to see just how many guys have done some really hard mixed stuff with the Viper. http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=2094 http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions

It is closer and better conditions for anyone in Spokane to just head north of the border. Banff/Canmore have a couple of very good ice climbing sites used generally for top roping. Good ice and lots of options for difficulty. Local to you when it freezes up...in the next few weeks... there is Indian Canyon in Spokane, Chilco just north of Cd'A, The Wizard, out of Sandpoint, Copper Creak Falls right at the Border Idaho/BC crossing and Gilbrater Wall at Canal Flats. All closer and most (everything but Indian Canyon) better ice climbing when they are up that the Baker Seracs.

Make that 5 packages out

I know a bunch of guys past 50 all pulling .11s or harder....trad not sport. When it comes to ice all of us are climbing harder on ice and mixed now than we ever did.....simply because the newest gear makes it easier. A lot easier. You may well suck. In the grand scheme of things...don't agree we all do That said everyone should climb more and harder...as often as possible!

Came over the pass yesterday. Water running everywhere off the mountains. If this is any indication up high looks like all we need is a hard freeze

Number of guys have donated. Still sorting through a good size pile of donated gear and trying to match it to the right requests. Good on ya, guys. Cool part is we've already been able to ship 4 PIF packages And more to go out asap. How fun is that!

I lived in Leavenworth for a summer. Never been a place climbing access was so easy and never climbed so little. Summer was way too hot for me to think about rock climbing in the valley.

With absolutely no medical background to make these claims... ADHD is likely more common in our sport than some others if you look around. My theory is the focus has to be so intense while climbing that you get good fast. Again my theory is, ADHD allows for a more intense mental focus in a stressful, adrenaline soaked environment. Quick success generates more interest and off we go. Good thing or bad thing for ADHD peoples?...my jury is still out on my theory ....not sure it helps long term might even make it worse. Awesome short term therapy though

Think I posted this before. Last season I picked up 7 tools...5 of them Nomics....all dropped. Some lost to the original owners forever. And I saw two good whippers. (30+ feet) All things a pair of umbilicals would have prevented. This I forgot to add. The BD Spinner should be available at any BD dealer soon enough and on line now. http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/climb/technical-ice-tools/spinner-leash?gclid=CMXy8f2OoJ4CFSReagod9mcUmQ The current version from Grivel is in stock and available now from Mtn Tools in Carmel CA. "Order up ANY Grivel items - as we (Mtn Tools) are the factories mail order agents in North America. http://www.mtntools.com/index.html

Both boots are warm enough. The Koflachs are likely over kill. But it really depends how much time out you are planning to be out. Couple of days and the Nepals should be fine. Any more than that in cold weather and I prefer a dbl boot simple because you can dry (or at least try) them out every night. Evo is an exceptional cold weather/ moderate winter boot though and doesn't absorb much water in my experience. You might find they work well for your intended needs past a couple of days.

With the invention and popularity of leashless climbing a once condemmed and decades old climbing tool has come back. While they are not mandatory, they are in vogue. It has been over 35 years since I saw the first pair of umbilicals in use. Umbilicals being used on Polar Circus in the winter of 1979. Back in the late '70s and into the early '80s umbilicals were looked upon as a weak man's crutch. Mostly thought of as something the Canadians used (but never really did much) to aid sections of rotten, cold and really steep ice. We can blame all that on Bugs McKeith inventing the idea of ice aid while putting up some of today's modern classics, like Nemisis and Polar Circus. Just two among his many, many difficult ice climbs. Most visiting American climbers thought they were way ahead of the game by not using umbilicals while running up the first "free" ascents of the Canadian test pieces. Few outside Canada really made the "first free" ascents many claimed. Canadians had already been there on most of them and didn't fight back the cat calls. No Internet back in the day so info was often sketchy and incomplete or just a fubar rumor. It was hard to keep track. Of course not every one used umbilicals even back then. But a few did. 1st and 2nd ascents of Slipstream did. Jim Elzinga photo on the 1st ascent of Slipstream They were not used for aid or for hanging to place screws. Although when required you could do either. The real use was to save your ass if you happen to fall. Hopefully an umbilical would keep you on the ice. BITD leads were long and run out. Ice screws could be hard, difficult or just plain impossible to get in, depending on the ice and out side temps. Weighting your umbilicals are a way to save the 2nd's strength while pulling screws if you can deal with that idea ethically. No one sane thought the idea of falling with tools and crampons OK. Falling on the old gear generally required a hospital stay or worse. Once I switched from Chouinard curved tools to a set of Terrodactyls for technical ice I seldom climbed without at least one umbilical attached to my harness or swami. As the tools changed the old umbilicals generally went straight on the new tools. Big jumps from Terros, Clog, Chacal, Pulsar. Pretty simple change as mine were just a set of tied 9/16" nylon tube webbing. The first manufactured umbilicals I saw..years later... where done up by Grivel. The "Grivel, Double Sping Leash" with a mini wire gate "biner" specifically designed for the task. While leashless tools really hadn't caught up with the possibilities yet, Grivel umbilicals were seen on some pretty amazing climbs often used by climbers sponsored by competing tool companies. The umbilical had finally "arrived". But no one outside a tiny circle of hardcore alpine climbers really knew it yet. South America I worry more about dropping a leashless tool, than I do falling off. But when you can protect yourself from both mistakes it makes sense to ante up and use that protection. More than one really good climber has poked fun at me because of my support of umbilicals. More climbs and climbers I admire used umbilicals and have been suggesting you do as well. http://www.psychovertical.com/?doublespringleash http://cascadeclimbers.com/alpine/colin-haley-alpinism-hardware-part-two Alaska Chamonix Alaska Canadian Rockies Alaska Alaska Candian Rockies Alaska Nepal Thanks to all for unknowingly donating their photos for this post. Easiest way to get yourself a pair of umbilicals is by reading Dave's web site and making your own. Good stuff!! http://www.alpinedave.com/leashless_rig.htm The second way is buy a pair of the commercially made ones. Grivel offers several versions and Black Diamond offers their "Spinner" unit. For what it costs to make a "good" pair of umbilicals both Black Diamond and Grivel offer real value imo. Here is some detail on what I use and my observations. Grivel was my first commercial set. I was lucky enough to get the original Grivel 3KN mini biner version with a girth hitch atatchment. Not a big fan of the mini locking version out now. Or a biner attachment to the harness. Good elastic and webbing that attaches to the harness by a girth hitch (small loop is passed through harness belay loop and tails are feed back through and out the small loop cinching tight on the belay loop) Very simple. Length is shorter than some seem to like but if I sit down on the leashes (6'1 and normal ape index) at full extention for both tools the Grivel leash will allow my tools to be out of reach. Just barely so, but still out of reach. It is durable. Black Diamond had dozens of Spinner Leash prototypes out the last couple of years for real world testing and feedback. Again I was lucky enough to get a pair of those and used them a lot. Better yet for good feedback, I let all my partners use them. Only thing I can see that has changed in the Spinner leash is the over all length has been shortened on the current version. I've seen current reviews commenting that the BD Spinner leash set up is now too short. Trust me? The Spinner IS NOT too short for anyone under 6'8" and a huge ape index that I know! The "too short" comment doesn't make sense unless the reviewer is mistakenly writing about a short early prototype? If you happen to fall on the Spinner you'll have some work cut out for you getting back to your tools. The Grivel set up is managable but only just. The Spinner will make you work for a living it you weight it unprepared. But if you are using the most modern ice climbing techniques you should be stacking your tools on top of each other which should help. You'll need the extra reach to accomplish that and still have only a short fall for your Spinner to catch. It is a tough balancing act to get the right umbilical length and still get it to do everything required of it. If you need to weight your tools intentionally, you had better stack them or you'll not be able to reach a tool using either brand name. While I like simple and wasn't impressed with the swivel of the Spinner originally, everyone else that used mine was. I've come to accept its advantages over time. And no question having a leash set up that avoids all the tangles and twists that will come with umbilicals is an advantage. Grivel no longer offers their 3KN wire gate mini biner version. On the other hand BD took notes and then used them on all the details. BD uses a proprietary hydrophobic webbing, a over built mini swivel and mini wire gate biner that will fit most tools head and spikes. It is a good piece of kit. And would cost a small fortune to duplicate in the same quality. I try to climb smart and if a technical ice tool goes in my pack so does a umbilical system. See ya out there!

I'll try this again. Take a look. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CwHcS-XoYbc It aint about a job offer or trading your labor for gear. Not about being a mentor. All worthy goals and ideas. Not about giving anything for free or getting something for free. This idea isn't that or those ideas and it isn't really about climbing. BUT the idea can be a really good thing for climbing, short term and long term. It isn't about another hype induced, ego, media sponsored climbing hero. It is about why many of us climb in the first place.

Some missed the point...this wasn't ever supposed to be a trade or a job offer. That is not the concept of "pay it forward". FWIW...I have had two ask for gear and only two sponsored requests. Total! Funny enough when you think about the level of karma involved, both climbers who were "sponsored" didn't want any thing for themselves but only asked if we could get their long time partners some much needed gear. And they didn't ask for much even then.

Layton and Feck make sense. A few of the forum topic titles don't really. Northern Idaho has little to do and is 300/500 miles away from the stuff down south. And that is a little "mistake". BC-Canada? BC coast range? Interior? Canadian Rockies which run between BC and Alberta? The Parkway-Icefields? How about one for Chamonix(specific) or Alps (more general) instead of a blanket "Foriegn" which is way too inclusive when it encompasses the entire rest of the world . Easy enough to make new topics but much harder to take the time and sort through what has been posted and organise it into any new forums. Sure it is "cascade" climbers but also a lot of folks here traveling out of the area. Also make finding the info posted here easier and make adding TRs more specific to an area.

Thanks and have fun!

how much snow on the ground at the falls?

Have to ask yourself..."want to climb with this guy?" Weird how he is talking to a guy directly infront of him in the picture and can't bring his eyes down. Is that "down" syndrome? Or just from too much belaying? Hey Craig how is the walk in...any idea how much snow at Colchuck lake?

I am obviously not very good at this. For those that have not seen it, rent the movie, "Pay it Forward" and you'll get where i am coming from. I saw it once 8 or 9 years ago and the idea stuck with me. Or just take a moment and watch the youtube trailer. Then imagine what we (as climbers) could really do if we tried. Doesn't need to be three...one would do. Doesn't need to be today. Just something we keep in the back of our minds for the right person on the right day when we are able. Might be tomorrow might be 30 years from now. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CwHcS-XoYbc http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0223897/

My version makes the hammer slightly smaller than Ralph's original drawings. Some change in swing weight but not huge. I was working on a drawing last night with the intention of going even smaller. The new Fusion has may be 2/3 that surface area or less of th Quark hammer head! Hammer is noticable on swing weight/balance. Less so on mixed obviously. More so on pure ice. But I use the weights on pure ice with the Cascade pick. Hammer on one tool with mixed pick on mixed climbs. So the comparison is again obvious. First it is 1/2 the thickness of pick and hammer that is removed to mate them together. Where did you get the idea of 2/3s? Same system used on the Quark since that tools inception. No problems with them over a 8 year history of use and abuse. This mod, Nomic hammer, with a milled center is going on its THIRD season and no complaints to date. And ZERO internal wear on hammer heads or picks I have seen and used. The Nomic hammer or Quark for that matter is NOT a Yosemite big wall hammer. Never intended to be. You want to drill and pound out a big wall get a rock hammer. Need to place an occasional pin the Nomic hammer will work fine. Just as the Quark does off the shelf. Also you can pull the hammer off the Nomic and put a spacer in and use the tool just as it came from the factory. Seem at least a dozen Quarks being used in Europe and Canada by hard core climbers with NO back half, hammer or adze, no spacer and no ill effects after some obviously serious abuse to the tools. I use this stuff myself and if there was a problem we would either fix it or go on to something else. I am not into trashing good tools or making my life any scarier than it needs to be by using risky gear.