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Dane

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Everything posted by Dane

  1. Thanks for the plug :-) Try here...these guys know more about AT boots/gear than most.. http://www.wildsnow.com/2299/ski-boots-cold-feet/ No blisters in 8 trips to the range. I take lwt skis and boots and my climbing boots. And boot it above 11K even if I want skis to play on at 14K.
  2. New paint and zipper on the Batura..same old boot. Old "tweety bird" style is getting dumped. $320 is wholesale. Batura is on sale for 398.88 at Mtn tools. Use Discount Code "ICE 9" for a $126.00 savings. Bentgate.com is also $399. EMS has them at 349.00 Lots of good boots on sale via the Internet, so look around for the best prices. Batura reviews on the blog.....as always caveat emptor.
  3. Agreed..the rest will just end up being spare tools if you are smart.
  4. I would rethink the dbl pastic boots. Lots of better more comfortable options. If you are set on plastics by all means rent. Shopping on-line? Three great places to deal with and easy returns with zero hassles are Zappos, Oregon Mtn Community and BackCountry.com The suggestion has been made before with other climbers here starting with the dbl plastic idea and going lighter...and being happy with the decision. Seriously there are any number of boots that would be a better choice that plastic dbls.
  5. Grivel Evo hammer is 500g in a 48cm.
  6. Lots of different styles of intergal gaiters. The simple ones are intended to keep stuff out of your boots and don't add much past that. The more complicated ones can add signifigant warmth to your boot/system. The more coverage the gaiter offers, generally the less durable the boot. I've found the boots with the least amount of coveage still require a full length gaiter in many conditions. At their worst the weak design efforts just make the boots hard to get in and out of. A typical view inside a integral gaitered boot.
  7. You are welcome, any time. More on the Batura.... http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/04/scarpa-phantom-guide-vs-la-sportiva.html
  8. The entire Trango series are good boots if they fit your feet. Prime was a little wide for me. Prime was hashed out a bit several times when they first came out. Prime is a good lwt all around mtn boot. For that I use the Trango Evo..the red boot. It is cheaper and easier on the feet. Need more? I use the Trango Extreme Evo for that. Here are two links: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/925355/Searchpage/2/Main/63380/Words/trango+Prime/Search/true/Re_La_Sportiva_Trango_Boots_Pr#Post925355 http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/866807/Searchpage/3/Main/65285/Words/trango+Prime/Search/true/Re_New_Ice_Alpine_boot_Batura_#Post866807
  9. Dude! BTDT...for 2 seasons. A new paint job and a new zipper don't make it a new boot Other than that same boot, love 'em or hate 'um. Me? Not one of my favorites and for the record I really liked the older "tweety bird" look. My boots on the crux chimney on Pineapple Express/Blue Moon, winter 08/09. Previous review of the Batura here.. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/04/la-sportivas-batura.html
  10. Super easy and obvious. Top of the G/S you hit the face on the Fin if you stay right. Ledges run up and right. One step around move (two moves) at the very end of the ledges which is pretty exposed (but very easy) and you are on the last bit (short) of easy rubble to the summit. I think it is an awesome line, easy to follow. Easy to do in boots as well but also done it in approach shoes. Crux is low down on the face in a short corner. 'pons and axe can stay home for the G/S this time of year. It will be all rock and very fun.
  11. Three new double boot commentaries on the blog for those that might be interested. Spantik comments and the new Scarpa 6000 review. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/08/more-on-spantik.html
  12. 5th ascent. Slovaks '84, Gilmore/Mahoney 7 days 2000, Twight/Backes/House 60hr single push 2000 (10 years ago now), GiriGiri Boys 4 days as part of a 8 day, S face enchainment 2008, Jesse/Mark 80hrs 2010. Having thought about getting on that face in '92 we might well still be there if we had got started. Only time I can think of a bad crevasse fall as a "good thing". Really puts the 60hr T/H/B effort and Jesse's and Mark's ascent (in what sounds like really terrible and dry conditions and no pre chopped tent ledges) into some kind of perspective. Jesse got some amazing pictures. Hopefully they will post some up soon. All outstanding efforts!
  13. Thinking the same thing myself. Great shots and a new perspective on the Fin. Well done!
  14. http://www.foursistersfilm.com/2010/07/success-in-talkeetna/ Congrads to Jesse and Mark!
  15. Nepal Evo is one of the very best single boots ever manufactured. Good most places 9/10 months of the year. Easily warm enough for water ice and much of the easier alpine stuff in Canada during winter in moderate conditions. And a nice feel of satisfaction and over kill for anything in the Cascades except Rainier in winter. Nepal Evo is the boot of choice for the guides in Chamonix during summer climbs of Mt Blanc and many of the technical routes in the range. They typically have much worse weather and risk of cold injuries during summer than we do. Not a guide these days but I can offer these comments. Many long time guides (or most anyone who has climbed a lot in cold weather on big mtns) have really messed up feet from previous cold injuries and will wear modern dbl boots or lighter weight boots with built in gaiters (on summer snow climbs for durability) like a Batura or Phantom Guide where most clients can easily get by with much lighter weight single boots. So not always a great choice to mimic the most experienced guides working on Rainier
  16. Not exactly true, does anyone "reguire" plastics? ....Kurt had it right the first time. He's also a working guide last I checked. Rental is a good choice. Made the same suggestion to a Rainier group myself a few days ago. http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/index.php?&gigpag=rentals_rainier Last week from what I saw many/most of the RMI clients were wearing Manooks. There are a number of lwt weight fabric and leather boots that are a better choice for a summer ascent of Rainier than plastics. (any plastic)
  17. You're "da" man last week Nice work!
  18. Dane

    Paragliding

    "Doing down hill rides can be fun if you live through the launch. "
  19. Dane

    Paragliding

    Envy? You shouldn't. Sitting in an on shore flow is BORING. Doing down hill rides can be fun if you live through the launch. Catching thermals and going places is very, very cool. Sadly catching thermals does this to me Which would be ok if it didn't last for DAYs! Good luck Sobo and try to enjoy yourself!
  20. Dane

    Paragliding

    I solo'ed back in the day. When I first moved over here I flew a couple of times with Seattle Paragliding. Launch site is just down the road. Safe? Good record by Seattleparagliding and the rest over here. One of the reasons I think is the lauch site and landing area are very well done for the novice. (read I didn't fuck it up yet) They also have Nationals here and major events on a regualr basis. But kinda like soloing, you either live or things go really bad In the grand scheme of things it is a "cheap" sport. Go to a place like Tiger to learn. You'll want to be riding thermals to stay aloft even on your early flights. That will quickly tell you if you want more. I've done it but I'm no pilot and know it. This is right after lauch on my last flight at Tiger. We are holding elevation in a strong onshore flow.
  21. Dane

    Paragliding

    Bill sorry not much help past what I will relate to Sobo. Sobo..try a search under Tiger mtn, Issaquah. A number of companies work out of there. All do tandems. How are you with motion sickness? A lot safer now with the better wings than in the old days. The "old days" ('70s-'80s) pretty much decimated a generation of young climbers. great place to start.. http://www.seattleparagliding.com/ http://www.tigermountainparagliding.com/AboutTiger.html'>http://www.tigermountainparagliding.com/AboutTiger.html http://www.tigermountainparagliding.com/
  22. Dane

    MINX

    Sobo you are up way to late.... go TO BED! If it helps think of Minx
  23. James those are some amazing pictures. Thanks and congrads as well!
  24. Same one..here: http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/index/index.htm and you can print a copy for yourself.
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