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Dane

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Everything posted by Dane

  1. I use both on a regular basis. And hopefully this will help. Better check the weights yourself. Out of the box the BD is lighter. Grivel published weights are typically without the bott. BD is very careful to publish their actual weights including the bott. What is listed below I weighted and is accurate. Grivel G12 ful bot 35.6oz Stainless Sabertooth full bot 34.2oz Stainless Sabertooth full bot with Petzl bail & heel 30.2oz Stainless Sabertooth no bot with Petzl bail toe and heel 28.4oz Stainess Sabertooth. Neve heel, no bots with Petzl bails 25.4oz More actual weights posted here: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/04/weights.html While at first glance they are similar in design and performace they are not. The BD has an extra set of down points and it makes a noticable difference on varied terrain. That said I really like the Grivel on mixed, likely because I have used them there a lot. And I like to think the Grivel front point design has some advantages. That is only speculation but they certainly stay sharp a long time. More here: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/02/these-freakn-pons.html Fit? I use Petzl front bails on both of these crampons for a better fit. I also like the Grivel for fit on my single boots, especially the heel. It took Petzl bails and the asymetrical bar to get a better fit than that in the BD (BD is in the process of going to a thinner front bales) The BDs will fit anything but are a bit awkward without some work. No question the BDs fit my dbl boots better out of the box. Grivel's fronts don't fit a wide boot (dbls) very well. (boot size is a 45) And Jon's thread from last year. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/966335/Re_New_vs_old_BD_Sabertooth_cr#Post966335 Price? Price being equal, I think the stainless BD Sabertooth offers a better value and better performace between the two. At 1/2 retail price I'd likely take what was on sale. Few will ever wear either pair out.
  2. thanks!
  3. Price drop, so I can get new, bigger, boots
  4. Nothing terribly hard but my partner used a pair of BD hybreds to solo 4 pitches of this last winter. And he has the choice of climbing on any crampon he chooses as his job. House and Anderson on Nanga Parbat. House photo. Hybreds work fine at any level of techncal difficulty. They can have some distinct advanatges and can be more secure and easier to put on and take off in some instances than a bale as long as you take the time to fit your boots correctly. A proper fit in either style binding is the key. It is worth noting that few if any modern crampons fit boots now as well as earlier fully adjustable rigids did. Those old rigids used straps to attach the crampons to the boots and a perfect crampon fit to the boot sole. That system put up many of the first WI6 routes around the world. Rigid soled boots have allowed the manufactures to fudge a bit on crampon fit. Clip-ons are dependant of boot soles for fit. Front and rear bales vary in size and how they fit as do the boot toes and heels. Crampon boot interface can determine the performance of the crampon almost as much as the crampon design. Don't assume a factory set of wires front and back are always the best setup for your specific set of boots. The crampon companies are continually rethinking the crampon bales to better match the boots as the boot sole designs change. Classic example where a hybred might well be a better answer. As long as you have front points and a reasonable fit to your boots I've found that the ice tools you choose will have a much bigger influence on what grade you climb at comfortably than crampons. I also have found that beyond both sets of tools the boots I use on ice can have as big of impact as the tools.
  5. This could well be the trip of a life time. Good luck following an amped Powderhound for the week Over Thanksgiving??...you bastard!
  6. Of course anything I sell is perfect and great deal
  7. I figure we could all toss in at least one used coat...that would make almost 20K people warmer this winter. How hot would that be?!
  8. I don't know.....let me think on that..awhile... But I do like this one..EB down hoody...bought it on a lark the other day at 30% off. Gotta go back and get another for the better half now. In the right conditions...dry and cold....it is a nice piece of gear. Makes a great pillow as well! It it nice enough maybe Narrona made it?...probably not though. And retro cool if you have a long enough memory The I see Whittaker has the XV on sale for $200...down from $299. Which is a lot more coat for the money than the Narrona. And finally in the same weight class as the Narrona ($350 this year down $30.) the EB Mtn Guide Jacket looks pretty good at $200 on sale. It desevses a picture but ED is uncooperative http://www.eddiebauer.com/catalog/product.jsp?ensembleId=37546&&categoryId=27376&categoryName=FIRST-ASCENT-MENS-INSULATION&pCategoryId=27373&pCategoryName=FIRST-ASCENT-MENS&gpCategoryId=27372&gpCategoryName=FIRST-ASCENT&catPath=~~categoryId=27376~~categoryName=FIRST-ASCENT-MENS-INSULATION~~pCategoryId=27373~~pCategoryName=FIRST-ASCENT-MENS~~gpCategoryId=27372~~gpCategoryName=FIRST-ASCENT&viewAll=y
  9. sold
  10. A worthy event. Not a huge savings. But 20% off might help you tag something worth while in the First Ascent gear. http://www.eddiebauer.com/EB/One-Warm-Coat/index.cat Seattle (Nov 19-21)
  11. It's going to be gooooooooooooooooddddddddd
  12. Dane

    Stoke!

    GOD willing and we don't have another valcano Photo courtesy of Jon Griffith: More here: http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions/1529242-late-to-say-im-sorry-aiguille-verte
  13. Dishman, everyone else does.
  14. Grivel regular..which fits up to a 7 1/2 american hat size.
  15. One of the few rigid crampons left. They rock vertical ice. $130 shipped con us. "The Grivel Rambo Evolution 4 Crampons use a monopoint design to allow precise footwork on mixed ground and a shorter secondary point to increase stability on pure ice. Combine this point configuration with a rigid frame design, and the Evolution 4 Crampons show their true colors as serious tools for technically demanding ice and mixed climbing. This latest evolution of the always-popular Rambo crampons also includes an integrated active anti-balling system to keep snow from building and destroying your traction. "
  16. Dane

    Gamma MX

    Gamma MX is no feather weight. It is heavy these days for what is available and offering similar protection. Few are more durable. Good winter shell...too warm for me during the summer months. Gamma MX Hoody. Material:Polartec Power Shield, Schoeller Dynamic Waterproof Rating:Water resistant Core Venting:No Pockets:2 Hand, 2 chest, 1 arm Seam Taped:No Powder Skirt:No Hood:Yes Zip-in Compatibility:No Weight:21oz (595g) Recommended Use:Climbing, hiking, backpacking Manufacturer Warranty:Lifetime
  17. Bright yellow, sweet rig, used, never abused. $50 pick up or actualy shipping.
  18. These are made by Scarpa. Fit seems to be between 11 and 12. Seems appropriate as they are marked 11 1/2. New and unworn. They fit most any plastic (Scarpa Inverno, Koflach Degre and Arctis Expe, and Lowa Civetta Extrem) and some of the newer dbl boots. Nice fit and a sure way to up your boot's warmth with little weight. Bargin priced. $65. shipped in CON US.
  19. Dane

    Gamma MX

    And me with not a single peice of Gortex that I use in the mtns? I want either stretch or insulation. All have to be breathable and still cut the wind. Last thing I require is 100% waterproof. The majority of the Gamma MX is made of Polartec Power Shield.
  20. Dane

    Gamma MX

    Exactly what jackets are you comparing it against? Hooded or unhooded version? You can buy a hoody for $25 at Costco that is very similar in look at feel. But I don't want to take that jacket out on the icefields mid winter. Most of the major players now make something similar at a lower price point. For good reason as the materials used and fit aren't as good as Arcteryx. Add the knock offs like Costco and it might be hard to see the difference in the store if you don't care to look past the price tag. I have lots of choices in clothing. I bought my first Hoody MX version in '03 or '04 and the jacket literally went on evey alpine climb i did until early last winter when I passed it on to a buddy in still decent condition and bought a new one.
  21. Last year's model Nomic, like new as they were my spare pair. Pommels cut and a bigger hole drilled for a lower leash attachment. New/unused Astro picks. Wrapped with 2228 slicing tape. $360.00 plus what ever actual shipping is via US priority mail inside the USA. I will only ship out of the country if you take full responsibility after I mail them. ..........sold thanks...
  22. Dane

    Gamma MX

    "they're behind the curve these days and all their gear has ben surpassed" Seems to me Arcteryx, RAB and MTN Hardware have some of the most innovative, lwt and effective outdoor clothing currently available. Pays to shop price on them but also well worth the effort. Not like I care what anyone else wears, 'cuz I don't.
  23. Dane

    Gamma MX

    Yes Mike it is magical..works well in way worse weather than you might expect. I've used mine many times in nasty mid winter icefield conditons as my only shell garment and never been dissapointed. But truth is the Gamma is out dated now. Much lighter and better pieces available although you have to give up a good bit of the stretch to achieve that at the moment. Atom Lt and Atom come to mind as better pieces on the cold end (-15/-20C) of the Gamma usefulness. There was a time I never thought I'd be without a Gamma Hoody for winter climbing..they really are that good. The Gamma is stretchy, very durable, wind resistant, and warm for it's weight and dries easily. Ebay prices can be almost 1/2 for new garments with tags.
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