Dane

From my own experience no one listed so far will be able to really custom fit a pair of boots for you locally. The guy to talk to is Martin at Sturtevants in Bellevue. Best to call and make an appointment with Marin I suspect. If you can, talk to him before you fly in so he'll know what to be be prepared for. I have had him do a couple pairs of boots. Generally takes an hr. or so. http://www.sturtevants.com/Sturtevants in Bellevue I heard he was leaving Sturtevant's this spring to open his own fitting business. North Bend..may be? Which is a few minutes from DT Seattle and a bit east of Bellevue. I don't know if that has happened yet. But he is worth hunting down if you want a really good fit done. The guy is magic with ski and climbing boots imo.

Most every shop in the area is limited on models and sizes. REI in Seattle, FF across the street and Marmot in Bellevue are all good but still limited in models. Likely the best place for a good mtn boot selection in the seattle area is Whittaker's in Ashford on the way to Rainier. http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/cnav/3/footwear Being a simalar size the other best place in Seattle to shop for boots is Zappos, seriously. http://www.zappos.com/climbing-boots?zfcTest=navAndThumbs:0

Chris I did ask just now and you are correct that policy is no longer in effect and hasn't been for a while. First time I heard of that decision was climbing unroped as a party of 3 in the mid '80s. No question we were told it was illegal and we would be fined if we didn't rope up. We were at Cadaver Gap and coming down from a ropeless ascent. We had a rope and did rope from there to Muir. But we were also told, "lucky for us we had a rope with us" or no question we would have been ticketed for climbing above 10K without being roped. I think it goes back to many things NPS related on Rainier, from several locations on the NPS web site: "Required for all who plan to climb above 10,000 feet or onto any glaciers." But thanks for questioning that....you were 100% correct. So much for that data being useful...

Ya, I agree on the tent issue but not so much the other one Matt. Nice idea but falls are more likely to occur on the decent when everyone is tired. Getting off any of the n. side climbs by down climbing isn't the smartest option imo. I've carried over a couple of times from the north and only bivied on the summit once. And that was a bad plan in retrospect. Did it the first time and thought better of it the next. We should have and could have just walked down to Ingraham flats or part way down the Emmons to 12K and spent the night in relative comfort. Over all, either would have been less of an effort than the bivy at 13,800 just under liberty Cap. Have to agree with Ivan. Best trips I have done on Rainier have been n. side climbs going down either the Kautz or DC. Those climbs seemed more like real mtn adventures.

Guess you missed my point Jimbo. I solo stuff all the time including Rainier. I just don't recommend soloing in general or Rainier in particular. Why the crusade? Easily answered. I think the NPS solo permit system as it is now, simply doesn't serve the NPS or the climbing community. And I think that needs to be changed. Nothing new about that. The recent death of a soloist just pointed the issue out to the NPS with some clarity. Your are right Success cleaver is "safer" than most Rainier routes. "Safe" being a relative term. Easy to forget SC as I haven't climbed on that side of the mtn. Thanks for pointing out my mistake. But between DC and SC as a solo route...anytime of year, all things considered? I'd venture to say DC is the more safe option. But everyone gets an option Success Clever is one of the longest climbs on a big mtn and no technical challange which might draw some. Awesome walk from Point Success to the summit though. I am looking for real data so I have links back to this poll on 4 or 5 climbing forums including supertopo.

Depends on why you solo. I suspect most of the Rainier solo climbs are just folks lacking a partner, wanting to do a quick ascent and not so much looking for the wilderness experience or technical challenge. Most will solo DC as it is likely the safest, big holes not withstanding and more people on the route to pack down that cow path. The Emmons imo is much more dangerious because of the holes between Sherman and the upper mtn. But there are no "safe" solo routes on Rainier any time of year. A few will do other more technical routes for the adventure and experience. But it generally takes some skill and experience to get on them or off them or both safely. And that doesn't even take into account the climbing. Much bigger commitment mentally and physically than on DC. Routes I'd recommend? Soloing on Rainier is a crap shoot...and seriously, a good way to die, cold, in a tiny little hole. I don't recommend it by any route. Mt. St. Helens is a good solo as is the N Face of Chair in winter. Rainier not so much. YMMV

I am so surprised that the NPS actually wants climber feed back that I am trying to take advantage of it and get a few of what I think might be improvments to the system. Suggestions are welcome or even better are your letters to the Park Service! I had suspected a big percentage of the solo climbers on Rainier were doing so without a permit. Maybe 60% from the guys I know. But I am really surprised from the small amount of data we have been getting, the non permit solo climbers are dbl that of those with a permit and register with the park. Even more interesting is 65% of the climbers who do solo avoid the NPS staff, doesn't matter if they registered or got a permit.

I had a good conversation this morning with the chief ranger at RNP, Chuck Young and a short email exchange with Stefan as well. I was mistaken in attributing all the changes over the last two years to Stefan. He was not the one totally responsible for what I might think was less services in the park for climbers. My apologies to Stefan for the misunderstanding on my part. Chuck Young (and Stefan) truley do care about how the NPS interacts with the climbing public and want to better the communication between the NPS and the climbing community. The poll else where on the forum is info that will help that situation. Hopefully more will get involvd there. I am hopeful from our converstaions today that the blog will become more active again, volenteers will step up to help and we'll see timely road and back country as well as climbing info incorporated from the NPS employees, private climbers and the guide services on the blog. The NPS doesn't want climbers avoiding the NPS employees any more than we want to have to avoid the NPS while on the mountain just to keep from being '86 out of the park. The NPS is at least willing to discuss some options available on solo requirments to bring Rainier National Park more intune with the NPS's typical" solo requirements and permit systems. Write a letter to the emails listed above if you have concerns or opinions you want voiced. They are willing to listen.

Yahoo, sunshine and dry rock! Nirvana!

BD first light. fits 3 very clsoe friends a little snug, 2.5# and will shake off any storm at least a time or two. I got mine on sale over the internet for $129. I never use my Bibler now, saving it for something big...besides just me

You have the right forum and lots of helpful people here. Although you may not like all the answers you get. But Whoaaaa guys.. I was't trying to start anything or be rude. I was just asked a simple question. Although you might not appreciate why I asked it. And you got a free bump on your question since no one had replied yet. Which you might wonder why no one has answered yet. I don't have the way points to share and if I did I'd still ask the same question. My apologies if anyone is offended it certainly wasn't my intention.

I'm a weight fanatic only because I am so freak'in fat and let's face it, old. I'm OK suffering more if I can carry less. Good bivy isn't suffering much. So far I haven't frozen anything drastic or really important. (wind briefs are important) If I have to carry it very far, I don't want to carry much

I'd find/rent a lighter tent for DC. Or better yet talk your buddies into packing it. I already know I'm a pussy. But you can use a lighter bag in a tent. Bivy sac, "if you're doing a carryover, by far the coolest way to do a giant hill" Ivan is, like soooooooo toooo cool

gotcha, thanks. Now if we can only talk you into doing just one more test but with the fuel cans packed in dry ice. Pretty sure that is the same exact temp last time I had to light my stove

I have been told the qickest way is via the email application..FWIW. Same day or next day return and approval is common.

Forgot as OMR didn't ask the 2nd question. Great plan for getting up Rainier...it is just that the weather and conditions are really bad right now. That will of course change. I've had another inch of rain at my place just in the last 24hrs. No plan or anyone's skills is going to make that OK for the moment Time will, obviously.

TMO I had figured on doing the same thing this year after originally not getting a timely response from my email request. (although most everyone else had and now I have as well with a 2 day turn around) Made me wonder what the situation was for the two soloists involved in the avalanche last week. As one for sure did not have a solo permit but by his father's account. "had climbed Rainier many times by all different routes". Although I try not to climb in obviously terrible snow conditions...that sounds way too close to home for me. How about you? I have asked if the soloist skier had a solo permit and will know at some point. The Chief Ranger on Rainier and all the Climbing Ranger staff wants to better the communication and better incorporate our needs as climbers into their system. I think this is a unique opportunity to make some signifigant changes for the better on access to the mountain.

Yes...I agree. And the difference in how the fuel pressure changes in the cans is going to be dramatic. You also would be better served by using the same size cans which you can with all these stoves. Easy to see the obvious winner. Add cold weather to the mix and it is even more dramatic. Always good to have data points though, good work Mike

Duplicate post but I wanted to make sure everyone saw it. If you have or want to solo on Rainier this thread might be important to you. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/963400#Post963400

Worth noting that literally the first sunrise after and actual sun to hit on the Ingraham Direct after the last storm cycle caused the most recent slide on Saturday. Natural release from the sun or human triggered in conjunction with the sun? Doesn't matter. Easy to recognise the sun hitting a loaded slope would have a huge effect on stability. Take a look at the video the skier took. Dark at Ingraham flats when he first starts filming and an incredible sunrise. 15 minutes later it is full light. Slide started 1500' feet above them....just as the sun hit the slope above and the maority of the victims were still in twilight. Pretty common occurance in the mtns on loaded slopes @ that angle and that exposure.

Not terribly uncommon for a group not to rope up on some climbs, NPS no longer considers that "soloing".

Sorry I can't edit it. My mistake. I'll up date the numbers as I check back. 6/25 7am Have you solo'ed Rainier 28 Have you solo'ed with a solo permit 14 Have you solo'ed without a permit 18 Do you avoid NPS staff 23 Have you applied for a solo permit 15 Have you been denied a permit 0 Ideally this poll could lead to some big changes in the solo permit sysytem @ Rainier so I hope those that ever want to solo or have already, will take the time to join the conversation.

Rick, OK...people should know better by now...but long answer Gear does not make you safe. What is between your ears is what makes and keeps you safe. And that is coming from a confirmed gear whore. The gear only helps you survive your bad judgement or acts of an unkind God. My response was more concerned with the currrent conditions. It has been snowing up high here for 3 plus weeks now. Way out of the norm. I started posting that info a couple of weeks ago and was preaching caution because with the holiday weekend coming up everyone, including myself, is chomping at the bit to get back in the mountains. The slide on Rainier was a classic example of what WILL happen. It was lucky more weren't killed Saturday morning. So the thing on Rainier is this....serac avalanches aren't so easily predicted. When they fall a tranciever might be helpful but probes generally are not. Debris is too hard to probe through. Living or dying in a serac collapse is luck. I try not to spend much time under them. Soft snow avalanches, human or naturally triggered, like last weekend can so easily be avoided. You just don't climb in these conditions. It is no secret and easily predicted. The conditions we have now are rare and obviously deadly on Rainier for the moment. The conditions will change. As soon as they do, I'll summit. Until then you couldn't get me out of the parking lot. To answer Rob...Rainier in June isn't winter skiing. If you think the June conditions on Rainier right now require a beacon and probe you shouldn't be climbing IMO. Everyone is welcome to an opinion of course. Look around and you'll see some of the locals here making fun of what we should or should not be climbing right now in the PNW. Some of the same guys who disageed with the snow condition predictions I was making two weeks ago. Fun sport until someone looses an eye right?...as long as it is not your eye. FWIW the first 25 or so times I climbed Rainier all of them were planned from 300 miles away (C'dA actually) and booked months ahead of time. I did indeed summit in some bad weather on those trips and later ones. And I have been turned around on Rainier a few times as well. Two reasons for the failures. Too warm and/or too much snow up high. And all but one were trips with folks coming long distance wanting to climb Rainier as their primary goal of the trip. So we tried anyway. Missed this as well first time around. It may be hard to believe but my "go/no guage" is the same no matter my travel time or distance. And I have traveled a lot to alpine climb over the years. If anything I am way more conservative the farther I get away from home in the short term simply because I don't know the current local conditions, snow pack or weather first hand. And no matter what range I am climbing in they can and do change generally every season. Rainier in June of 2010 is a great example. Hard for even the knowledgable locals to believe it is this bad.

The Park service is looking for more data on soloing climbing in the Park, specifically summit attempts on Rainier. If you have any interest in soloing Rainier or have soloed Rainier in the past please fill out the poll. We as climbers have a rare opportunity here to help make a signifigant change on how the Park manages climbers. Please feel free to add your comments as well. I suspect that many of the ski ascents are done unroped. If you have not roped up on a ski ascent or any ascent for that matter of Rainier please check the "I have soloed Rainier", and the "I soloed without a permit" box. You can check as many boxes as apply to you.

If you have any thought that a becon and probes will be needed on Rainier because of the conditions you should not be on Rainier in those conditions this time of year.