Dane

For that scenario, no question in my mind....10 to 13cm. Tying off screws is pretty much left to the unprepared or desperate these days. Although I thought it a resonable idea twice in one pitch this week Only reason I still own a couple of 22s is to cut V threads. The threads give the holding power not the length of the screw. But you can forget the V threads with a 13cm screw if you weigh more than 100#..btdt as well. Didn't work well. The newest generation of screws also preserve the ice (and its strength) during placement much better than the old days. Small blobs of good ice that will take a 13cm screw might well do the trick. If you disagree read these links and goggle Craig Lubben...not *Chris*. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/info/ice/bd-test.html http://www.grivelnorthamerica.com/headlines.php?id=1&GrivelSess=b5803cb72430edd7ed2423fe3e973fdd http://www.mra.org/services/grants/documents/DynamicShockLoadEvaluationofIceScrews_Final.pdf

PM not working.. but I'll take these... "Black Diamond Sabretooth Crampons. Same as above except these have seen heavier usage and frontpoints are getting short; would be a good pair to use as thrashers at places like Hafner Creek to preserve your good ones for the steep ice and big rigs. $35"

That does not sound pleasant. I have some frostbite injury that still bothers me when it gets cold. But the after effects are nothing like you describe. Everyone's feet are different obviously. Here is my experience. Never had toe injuries or lost a nail from water fall climbing and done it a lot including being out almost daily guiding during the winter seasons. Don't know anyone in our group who has...so your injuries aren't common. Continued reinjury is going to make it much, much worse. You need to stop climbing, get this under control and let it heal. Frostbite...or frostnip or any prolonged cold injury like immersion foot can/will bother you for years to come. Trust me if you slept in your boots on a bivy and your soxs were frozen in the morning coming out of the boot you have some serious cold injury. Let your feet heal up.. Then I'd be the second to say buy bigger boots that fit. I would think your real problem is being unable to correctly fit your new boots with injuried feet. And finally a warmer boot to prevent reinjury. But worth a mention I have been out now in some -30C days on waterfall ice in the newer Nepal Top Evo and haven't had a problem with cold feet. Also the first single boot I have used in years and I'd much prefer to still be in a dbl just tio avoid another cold injury.

What's the drive time from Portland?

WI 4? Mentioned already but for a couple hrs of good ice how about starting at Sniveling, then back up the left side of Weeping wall and finally Whimper wall just down the way a bit. Makes for almost 500 meters of moderate ice. For a better non yoyo version, Left of Weeping Wall and on to the upper wall, Mare in Winter? (which was fat a couple of weeks ago) Again right at 500m of grade 4 or easier ice. Only the connecting pillar is a bit of steep ice. (4+) Best of all even -30C temps can be pleasant on Weeping Wall in the sunshine. The ice is generally good on Weeping Wall as well. Really good if you compare it to some of the nasty stuff on the pillars around Field this time of year. Louise was in Grade 4 shape a couple of weeks ago as well. Its pillar is a classic that you shouldn't miss when it is that easy. Weeping Wall was as fat as it ever gets with the left side pretty mellow for a 4. Borgeau Right-hand when the avi conditions are right should be on everyone's hit list (although the approach is a bit of a bitch). Polar Circus? Although the lower climbing is easy the avi danger can be deadly, even for the very best climbers. With so much good ice around that is a lot safer to get on I'd think hard before "playing" there.

still got'um?

Hey Kurt, if not let me know.

TRy this.. http://www.psychovertical.com/?bootlace

Still skiing? Or have you sold the Friends?

I'm using 7.8mm x 60m twins and a guide ATC. Not that anyone else suggests it but I like it a lot. In the right places it is also worth thinking about using just one as a 30m twin. While the other stays in the pack for raps. Used a 70 meter single last trip which turned "everything" into a two pitch route, which i liked. But seemed silly to pass up good belay ledges and lug along more weight. Even sillier when rapping as we still needed a rap line and the rope was much longer than the chains and much too shot to hit the next station. Fun leaving v threads all over Canada (and we weren't the only ones) but not something I wouldn'd encourage.

Out of almost 4 dozen successful summits by various routes I can easily say the last 2 weeks of June and first 2 weeks of July have been the most successful trips for us.

I have 7 to 10 days off later this month and am going to the Banff/Ice Fields area for some ice. Send me a PM if you are interested.

Couple of further comments on the Batura. Ankle is now very flexible and sole is flexing a bit as well in my size 45s. Enough so I'd wonder about rigid crampons. (suspect I am the last guy actually using a rigid crampon though) Boot has been very comfortable and is beginning to feel like a house slipper after a couple of week's use. Walking is a pleasure. Climbing hard steep ice not so much although there is no lack of ankle flexibility or warmth. I get *zero* heel lift now which is a big deal for me and my really narrow heels and big feet. Going to spend a few nights out in the Ice Fields in the coming month. That should be a good test for just how warm the Batura is and how well they (and my calves) holds up to lots of front pointing. File this under the heading of "this sucks". Tore the eyelets off the third new pair of Spantik inner boots. If I can't tighten the inner boot sitting at my desk, no way are they fun for climbing anything technical in becasue of the heel slop. Sportiva was willing to have Dave Page replace all the innner boot eyelets at their cost of refund me. Decided I could live without dbl boots again this winter and see what kind of feed back comes in on the outer plastic eyes and how they hold up on the Spantik. Did see a guy and gal do a quick ascent of a hard new route on the left of Weeping Pillar in Spantiks with a set of heel spurs on them. So they are obviously working for some. Warmest boot I have ever had on and would love to own a pair that I could actually lace up.

I'll take all the Friends. PM me the amounts of each size please.

please tell it wasn't sunny over there yesterday....

PM sent...I'll take them.

Thanks G-spot tht was the one I was looking for “You must not continue!” yells the French climber. “Go down to your partner now and stay for zee night! If you try for zis in zee night, you will die! DO YOU LISTEN TO ME?!”

Thanks, interesting article. I was thinking more like a recent edition of ROCK and ICE or CLIMBING.

No clue where to ask this so thought this as good a place as any. Saw a recent article in one of the climbing rags about some guys climbing the N Face of the Eiger. Only thing that stuck in my mind was they finished with head lamps and some humor. Anyone have a clue on the magazine and issue? TIA

3# down bag, 700 fill down, taffeta nylon cover and liner in sky blue, used in Alaska (Denali and Deborah) and winter in the icefields by the warm blooded. Just cleaned by Feathered Friends. $150 plus shipping or local pickup fine.

Blue Chouinard tool bag with a set of Gravel pics, half a dozen ice screws and some other chit in it. Left at the base of the 1st pitch rap station on far left side of Lousie....easy to see as you unclipped or grab as you unclipped on the ground. Taken by mistake or stolen intentionally while we were on or waiting for the pillar. Yam had two guided parties on the route that day 1/11/08 one a group of 4 (group from England who did the pillar) the other a group of 3 who walked off the right of the pillar and made the rap. Yam guides didn't know anything about it. No one else around...that we saw. $400+ US in the gear....be nice to get it back. Appreciate the help.

3/8" kit is sold.

5 Snargs left. 3 long, 2 short.

freak'in Pussy.... Doubt they do sell that shit any more. Like I said for the right person, in the right place, it is the shit.

pm me your email