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Dane

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Everything posted by Dane

  1. Just a quess but you may have popped a tendon off it's track internally. Finger will get sore and inflamed at the join with any use? No use it seems fine? I knew I tweaked my ring finger pulling on a nub when I did it. It hurt... a lot...which is an obvious sign. But I could still climb. Figured taping it to my middle finger would help and it did...just not enough. With no treatment it took me 6 months and a freak twist of my finger to get it back working right. (driving a car of all things) But I knew things were right the minute it popped back in. Finger was never perfect afterwards but a whole lot better than the other way and I could climb again with no pain to speak of. My suggestion is visit a good orthopod if you want to keep climbing into old age The sooner the better. This from a guy who will seldom go to the Doc.
  2. Pretty simple but the best thing I have seen is no matter how ripped you get, is make sure you wash afterwards with hot water and a good soap. If you have or get a bad flapper, benzoin and tape it to give it the time to heal. Really wanting to do some nasty edges and your fingers are trashed, tape your tips. Wash them a often as is possible climbing, first in the morning and last thing at night. Take any tape or bandages off at night. Tape, benzoin, soap and water will get you through several months of hard climbing in the valley. Taping my tips is the only thing that will get me through a couple of weeks at Smith.
  3. I've been into Ptarmigan from Mowich lake and Ipsut and Liberty from St Elmo pass (the carbon is never all that fun) and Mowich. I prefer Mowich if you get to the lake in a car but I also like to go down thorough Muir which is a PIA logistically. Nice traverse though. I think the better way is come in over St Elmo and Curtis at around pt. 7783 (carbon not with standing) and go down through Sherman. If nothing else you don't have to stress about the ride back. I also believe st elmo is shorter than the other two. But you miss the heather parks and have some big holes you'll want to miss. The other though I have had is wait till Mowich is open and then go down close to Sherman and take a hard left and cross back over Curtis and back to Spray Park...that would be an adventure
  4. I'm no hard man but even when I thought i was this list was seemed a good day's workout on tr. I have spent a day just on one of the slabs listed trying to get all of us up just the routes on one anchor. Scratch and W/F have taken the starch out of my shorts leading them and left me on empty for the day. Potholes direct 10c " " direct 10a washbords 10c primate 10d scratch 10c w.f. direct 10a (climb the west face @ 5.8) slender thread...close enough to 10a fakin' it 10a cajun queen 10b That has to be close to 1000 feet slab all told. Funny part is sand stone has nothing to do with granite imo. I remember how confused I was going from WA sandstone to yosemite granite even after leading Timson's. Whole other world out there But I also go back a couple times a year to do the list I posted above. Fun, fun climbs on a tr and even better on lead if you drop scratch and W/F direct.
  5. Matt had started this list.... With little or no effort to hang the rope (2x150 or better) you can do the following at Peshastin: sperm whale 5.11a (although my last choice) Potholes direct 10c " " direct 10a washbords 10c primate 10d Dr leaky 11b (you'll need to climb P&B @ .10a for leaky) scratch 10c White lightening 11a w.f. direct 10a (climb the west face @ 5.8) slender thread...close enough to 10a fakin' it 10a cajun queen 10b On Givler's Timson's @ 10d is worth the walk. Classic has doing the dishes @ .12b weeping wrenches @ 11b secret dome jy crag Depends on where you learned to climb for this one.. Dan's dreadful direct on Castle .11b Enough to keep ya busy for a weekend I suspect.
  6. I wasn't kidding. Always thought there were moves on Classic crack that were harder technically. If I wanted to learn how to climb and lead 5.8 I would be doing laps on Sex Party.
  7. I thought and still think Sex Party was 5.8.
  8. I've done the Gerber-Sink at least a dozen times in summer. Very fun climb. Lot of ways to finish it. Just wondered what these guys did. I'm thinking the ramp across the base of the Fin would be pretty fun.
  9. Justo how did you finish the climb after leaving the bowl at the base of the Fin?
  10. Pashastin...rehab central
  11. Heard the problem with DNR was all the rocks the boys trundled into the locals backyards...unintentional of course. Makes me think the rock quality should make good training for Hungabee Two beautiful aretes up there though.
  12. Lots of water & goo during and later, water, advil, light workouts and message. If it is hard for you, you will be sore.
  13. OK I can swallow this...very nice guide and very well done. This year is a good time to buy one...I did
  14. No. If the conditios are bad in the basin either approach is going to be as well. Like the man said...check the conditions on site and in person after you have logged on and read the updates at home. If you don't know how to do that get the education to do so.
  15. Dane

    MUFFY"S DIARY

    Cat fight on line...great. Even Vantage in Dec is gonna be better than this
  16. Lucky, I owe you an apology. Seems like you have done everthing that the KCSO has requested. Reports, phone ins, and even gone to the effort of signage. Then in September another incident and report. All for nothing! The report and interview turned into he said/she said and the BGs walked. There is nothing of substance being done from my review. But it isn't from lack of interest.
  17. Here is the facts jack... Any crime, including having your car prowled needs to be reported if you actually want to do something about it. I read somewhere, Lucky, that you offer your expert opinion to others on whether or not their cars have been recently. Stealing credit cards #s might be a victimless crime. After all the bank pays it when or if the fake charges are founds weeks or months later. "Victimless crime" is why this has continued. Takes about as long to report this stuff as it does to cruise this web site once a day. Hard to believe but the KCSO has a some what limited coverage over much of King County. No one has been hurt (yet) and very few have been attentive enough to actually file incident reports. But just like climbing you can take some responsibility on yourself if you want to solve the problem. If you haven't filed 6 incident reports....which can all be done over the phone then you aren't willing to do much. With very few victims willing to express their distain you won't be seeing KCSO in a big hurry to get to a car prowl in progress 10 miles from no where. Them is the facts jack............
  18. Thanks to those that responsed on part 1. I just saw all the private messages and will get back to you asap. More importantly we need anyone who has been a victim at any skiing/climbing/ hiking area parking lot in the last 3 years to file a report if you haven't already. That is easily done via the phone @ KCSO Com center 206 296 3311 or by dialing 911 and getting into that program. Just let them know where it happened, when it happened, who was involved and anything else they ask. Without that data there is no crime. Please make an effort to get anyone who has been a victim now or in the past 3 years to file a report. The report that was filed in September, case number, 03-290856 has indeed been investigated. No charges have been forth coming...not enough evidence was my take on it. That may not be entirely correct. But my suggestion is we need to do more to have this followed through on. A flood of victim reports to KCSO would be a great start.
  19. No shots were fired past the electronic one over the bow of the BGs. I had a meeting with local media late last week. A few of us showed up in North Bend. I met with others earlier. Meeting early this week with KCSO. Further progress will not be posted on the BBS for all the obvious reasons. Anyone interested in being involved can contact me directly. At this point we are looking for man/woman power for future leg work but nothing happening till after the Holidays.
  20. "Talking smack is not the way to get people involved, you dipshit. Good luck." Best part about any thread made here is few can follow up on their comments. No different than any other Internet forum. Even fewer have the stones to do something about what has been happening in their own community, any community. I have been out of serious climbing for 10 years or more. I'm out of shape and fat but I have no tolerence for theives and zero for bs. I actually though some of the local climbers, that are involved, would have been pro-active or at the very least be willing to be pro-active and put a stop to the silliness at Exit 38. But what I have seen on this thread is a bunch of sheep or worse yet some wanker that and thinks I have talked smack to him Maybe someone will loan me a Exit 38 guide and I can look you up personally Lucky, so you don't have to loose a day's work. You know where I will be in the morning if you are offended. Still like to pick your brain since you have actually seen this group four different times in action. Pretty much what has been said, is what I thought would be the response here. Dissappointing because I actually thought the climbing community might be willing to take some responsibilty for ourselves. But that hasn't changed even if times have so I shouldn't be so surprized. So if I talked a little smack and dared any of you to get off your ass and do something about other climbers being ripped off, or heaven forbid that it might actually happen to you, too bad. The job will get done either way. My phone and email are listed and I will happily include anyone that wants to be involved. But I'm not a baby sitter or out to win a personality contest
  21. Dudette, I am not hard to check out, try IDAHO ROCK, Vantage, ROCKY MOUNTAINS SOUTH, CLIMBING or MOUNTAIN. But exit 38? It actually has a guide book, some how I have missed buying one, ya Wanker. The final plan would involve both the press and local LE. King County S.O. is responsible for the parking area. I have been in contact with them and will continue those conversations. LE involvement is more important than the press, which BTW has already committed to coverage. Anyone cares to show I'll be at the Starbucks by the Safeway Sat morning 10AM in North Bend just east of the outlet stores.
  22. Bug is in How about 10AM, Saturday in North Bend. Just name a place. Bring your friends and call it a social event.
  23. Sure would be easy enough to be driving a new car every month and never have to buy climbing gear again. Not my style though. I would rather just walk up and bitch slap a few of the wankers here in person, take their gear and then, casually, walk away. The typical reaction? Hell, Lucky has seen them 4 fuc....... times and practically knows them all by name. But now he is too busy to help till spring. But then he was too busy last spring to do anything more than write about it. I posted my email and phone number to tell anyone that wants to be involved I am real. Takes 2 seconds to check me out. I can also guarantee local TV involvement, and relative safety for those who want to be a part of this. BTW do you think these guys go into hibernation all winter? If you ski, showshoe or use the snow park system you are at risk.
  24. Oh, ya realllllly out there Good intel though thanks. Like I said, a phone call would help. Feel free to just use your screen name...since it is so risky.
  25. Lucky, We have the ability and know how to solve the problem with the initial group. We need more info and more bodies to do it right. Your help would be invaluable. Can you meet this weekend locally?
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