Dane
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Everything posted by Dane
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"Oh we’ve all been there—that age-old dilemma—“Should I wear a hard-shell or soft-shell helmet?” Well, the Hemisphere is here to save the day. As a “hybrid” helmet, the Hemisphere spans the gap between foam and hardshell helmets and delivers the benefits of both. You get hardshell protection from rockfall, as well as an incredible ventilation system that’ll keep you cool when the temps skyrocket. The Hemisphere is made of a polycarbonate shell with EPS foam—which means it’s both light and durable. Streamlined, lightweight and totally versatile, the Hemisphere is a four-season helmet that can’t be beat. Size: M/L Colors: Green. Weight: 350 g (12.3 oz). Hybrid helmet that delivers benefits of both soft- and hard-shell helmets EPS foam and co-molded polycarbonate shell are durable and lightweight Rear vent holes and air channels keep you cool" It's new, it's GREEN. Pick up in Seattle or Issaquah. $30 plus shipping. Pay Pal will work send me a PM.
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New winter '08 and spent a few days on ice. Not used since, so not sweated out and skanky RED in color, not yellow as shown and no logos. $50 plus shipping or pick it up in Issaquah or in Seattle. Pay pal will work..send me a PM. Nice, light, helmet that is easy to adjust... "A classically built helmet for alpine, rock, and ice climbing. The ABS shell resists sharp object penetration, and is lined with shock-absorbing polystyrene foam. The standoff created by the foam and the well-vented shell allows good air circulation. The Regular size is adjustable to accommodate head sizes between 54 and 62 (European)."
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Just personal bias but I wouldn't buy the Forrest hammer when they were new and had the chance. It is heavy and the hatchet handle funky. I do have an original Forrest wall hammer which I still use. More durable than the Chouinard wall hammer imo. At least three versions of the Chouinard Alpine hammer were made. They still come up here and on Ebay from time to time. I like the third version, longer handle (hickory as in all the versions) with a full set of teeth and a lightened head. Works great with hammerless ice tools for placing gear and cleaning cracks. A few emails to Black Diamond might get the Alpine hammer reintroduced. $80 to $100 is the going price for the Chouinard apline hammer in good shape on Ebay these days.
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Not me on the shooting... I think at some point he hooked up with Brian Enos for the fine points. But hand (or knife is even better) to gun at less than spitting distance? Good hands will win every time. And I did say "maybe"
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Grivel uses it as a logo but we all know it is true So you wanta be able to fight?! Here is a place to start....100# TKO heavy bag. TKO heavy bags are made with exceptional quality and attention to detail. They are each individually weighed, measured and inspected before being shipped. These bags are held to standards so exacting they allow for a weight variance of less than +/- 5%, the lowest in the industry. The TKO vinyl heavy bag offers an 18 ounce PVC coated vinyl shell for stylish durability. The filler is a patented blend of high-tech fibers that are specially designed to maintain its soft fill and help the bag keep its shape. The Vinyl Heavy Bag comes with heavy gauge welded "D" rings and a steel chain. 18 oz. PVC coated vinyl shell Heavy gauge welded steel "D" rings Anodized "non-twist" steel chain It's double-end tie down design means this bag can be tied down to reduce sway. The floor mount and bungee/tie down cord are not included Patented fiber filling absorbs impacts and keeps the bags shape Made in the USA Retail is $160. This one is new. $75 locals only and you pick it up in Issaquah or I can deliver for $20 extra in the Seattle/East side area. You'll also want some bag gloves if you don't already own a pair to go with this. Couple of months working out with this one and maybe you can kick the shit out of Twight
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ALPINIST issues: #1 #3 #18/19 #21/22/23/24 Eight total, $50 plus shipping.
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Back Issues of CLIMBING from 1975 to 2000. Not ever issue but 104 of them most complete in the late '70s and '80s. $200 plus shipping for the lot.
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The original high quality climbing magazine from Britian. Most Issues from #15 to #130. 102 of the 145 issues printed. 1971/1989 Lacking the first few and the last 15 and a few bits between. It might be possible to obtain another dozen or two of the later issues. For the 102 on hand, $250. plus shipping from WA. PM if interested.
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Selling as a set: 1969 1970 (1971 missing) 1972 1973 1974 1975-1976 combined issue 1980 (next issue after 1975-76) $200 for the set. PM if you are interested
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$3 each plus shipping from WA state. Send me a PM if interested. Issues available.. #53 Jan '93 #56 June '93 #62 7/93 #64 11/94 #68 7/95 #70 11/95 #71 1/96 #73 5/96 #75 9/96 #76 11/96 #77 1/97 #78 3/97 #79 5/97
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Omega Pacific 4.0 wire gate biners. Most are like new, others have been climbed on few days. (one summer season on easy rock) Good size D biner with a wire gate. Finish is polished. I have 25 total. $4.00 each plus shipping from Iss. WA. PM if you are interested.
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Nice idea Sobo but the '06 takes up to a 220gr and it aint a HP. You'd need a 180gr HP and something a little better than a Bushnell POS Last time some guys started hanging out at Exit 38 with a couple of M4s, 10x binos, digital cameras and a cell phone this shit stopped for awhile. Funny how quickly the word gets out.
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I wear a 45 Nepal Evo, a 45 Batura ( these fit bigger than the Evos) both with a liner and a med smart wool. Had the same Extreme you have now in a 46 and it was too big. Spantiks generally fit 1/2 or a full size bigger than a Trango in any version. I ended up in a 46 Spantik. 45.5 was obviously too small, 46.5 too big. I ended up ditching the Sportiva liner and had a local guy fit me with a pair of Intuition foam liners. They are lighter, WAY warmer (which is saying a lot with a Spantik) and fit much, much better, with no heel lift. Street shoe and running shoes are 11.5. Typical mtn boot is a 12. This might not help but I ended up using two pairs of really light liners in my Spantiks and would buy the smallest size boot I could wear without bumping a toe on swollen feet. Sounds like you are spot on with the 43 but only way to really tell is try on a 42.5. My guess is you'll bump your toe and need the 43. With narrow feet check for heel lift in the bigger size. Good luck!
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do you still have these?
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Hey Pope, it isn't worth the time. The comparison he made says it all...no clue. My take was the guy was more jealous of what others could do and his rational was "of course, repeat it a gazillion times and anyone could do it." Your point about the comparison of a mistake is well taken. Starting over can be a little tough after grounding out. Not so much when you miss a note. Never found that the "repeats mentality" all that easy myself. I could my own solos into, anytime solos, some time solos, seldom solos and one time solos. Then there is my biggest list, "never to be soloed by me". How many times I have climbed the route has little or nothing to do with it.
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When Mark started describing a climb to me that we'd both done, and got to the part he wasn't climbing the ice but had actually become part of the mtn....part of the ice... I took another swig of beer and just smiled. I think there are times even he actually believes some of that Me? I'd like to see the pictures. Mark has done some rediculiously hard Alpine solos, more than any American I can think of. He has more than paid his share of dues. I got to reread "Confessions of a Serial Climber" while laid out in bed over the last month enjoyed it even more the second time through. So I guess my "antics" comment comes from being inspired by any of the three over the years but not quite awestruck. They have all done some amazing climbs but there are things I draw a line at....drinking my own piss....is one of them
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Hey, I put some thought into this today and came up with a very clean and low profile solution for the Nomic. It does take a sewing machine and a tiny bit of sewing skill to make work though. I'm going to sew small loops to girth hitch into the Nomic handle and a slightly bigger loop (to fit the tool through when intitially hooking up) to then girth hitch either straight to your belay loop or girth hitch or sew to a swivel. Swivel has a sewn loop that girth hitches to your belay loop. Tack the amount of flat elastic or cord elastic into the webbing when you do the girth hitch tacks and you have a lean umbilical system that will be as strong as your sewing....which should be esy enough to match the 1/2" tape strength. I only have my set taped together at the moment but pics to follow when i get mine sew up.
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Joseph, that is a hilarious! Reminds me of other good times. Dating a really fun and dangerious young lady years ago. She tells me she and a girl friend were going to be on a route and I should come over, meet them and of course climb. Next morning I catch up to them on a nice ledge 500' up the route. Her partner takes off and is out of sight on the next long pitch and is taking her time. One thing leads to another on the ledge and we decide that it is close enough for us to join the mile high club. As I mentioned, she was dangerious but fun. I was a true hero that morning. That was only because all I could think about was the morning paper's headline "Friends whitness soloist die in fall"......pants found around ankles. Took a bit to get my head back into soloing the rest of the climb.
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Thanks John, but still looking for something cleaner yet. The BD has a full weight swivel, girth hitches and two "mini biners". My Grivel has mini biners and girth hitches. My home made ones can have any or none of the above. I like simple and clean. The Nomic is no plunging tool so why not just sew up a clean rig with swivel and elastic and no mess or bulk at the grip? Petzel should have added a full weight mini BD spike (would have been so easy with their handle design) that you could easily clip or tie into and still have the umbilical be out of the way. But the Quark is not much better so what was I thinking
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Not a fact at all. And I suspect from doing and knowing others that also make a habit of soloing not anywhere close to being true. And I agree with a previous poster you miss the point.
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Anyone come up with a clean way to attach an umbilical to a Nomic that you really like? I have a couple of home made sets, plus the Grivel and the BDs. Not really pleased with any of them on the Nomic. Best I have done is add a loop to the hole in the shaft and then use that loop to tie in the umbilical (no mini biners) to keep the liter to a minimum. I keep seeing "tape jobs" in the magazine photos of similar setups and all seem way more complicated/messy than they need to be. What are you using that you like?
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This is a fun and though provoking thread with some great responses. "Dirty little secret"? I used to live in an area where I heard a similar chorus from a small group of guys who climbed really hard but never soloed anything. Being one of the guys who did in fact head point stuff and then later solo it, (after a gazillion repeats) and onsighted stuff as well, I never figured out what the "secret" was. I've wired stuff that was really easy and wired stuff that I could just barely lead and soloed both. One climb was so hard for me that while I could do the moves, placing the pro could easily blow me out if I didn't get the pro sequence perfect and fire the stuff in. After leading the climb for the second time, no hang, no falls, with a major effort, I had this thought..."shit, bet I could flash this thing without a rope" and I did. Didn't get pumped because I didn't have to hang out and put in tricky pro. No secret there. That was only a single 100 foot pitch. Also done climbs that were multiple pitches long that I had climbed several times before. And I worked every rest on every pitch to stay calm and focused. Made the climbing much easier. I rested places I typically wouldn't when I lead the same climb. Knowing the rests were there and how to work them made a big difference in the level of power and control on that climb. Something really fun about going from one good hold to another and knowing what is in store for you. At least for me it allowed me to solo closer to what I was physically capable of, in control and safely. No way I would try to onsight, solo, something at that grade. I don't know of many hard climbs that get soloed on sight. Astroman, the Rostrum, the Cookie Wall, Half Dome, El Cap? Most of the solos that get done including many of Bachar's, Croft's and Potter's were done after a few (or many, many) repeats of the route. Astroman is certainly well under Croft's and Potter's technical abilities. Were the climbs any less impressive because of that? Not to me on either count. Potter's ascent of Fitzroy's Super Coulior more or less impressive? The dude drank his own piss to finish Fitzroy. Solo the changing corner's pitch on Astroman or drink your own piss to survive? Interesting choice depending on which is harder for you? No less impressive climbing or control imo. Alpine stuff is a different story and hard to rehearse. Steck's recent sub 3hrs on the Eiger was a good example of a climb that was pretty wired and rehearsed with his 10 previous ascents of that climb, and all but one, in a day or less! Gotta say I was still impressed. Hard climbing and a lot to get wired, even in 10 trips But hard solos in the alpine and on rock do get done. Generally the practioner has done his "home work" on a rope elsewhere at a higher grade and on more demanding routes. But I don't think there is any "secret" to it. No one is hiding anything that I know of. You may assume something and think it is "dirty" but soloing seems pretty transparent to me..it all boils down to, "feet, hands and heart", no matter how many times you have done the route. Generally when I run into a soloist I assume (incorrectly or not) it is his home turf and they are looking for mileage to get into or stay in shape. Only because that is how I generally use this part of the sport. I don't make judgements on why they are there or question their motives. They're soloing. How much simplier can a climber really be? Maybe "simple monkey concentration" is what we all really aspire to anyway. Maybe it is just the desire to have simple, safe movement in the vertical world. Sounds a lot like sport climbing and clipping those bolts doesn't it I don't think soloing is for everyone. Shit, I was roped up and fell off a 5.6 and damn near died a few weeks ago. I know I am mortal! But soloing is and has always been a part of the sport. To put it off as a "death wish" or irresponsible isn't any better than a troll coming here and saying the same about climbing as a whole.