Jake_Gano

I went to replace my well used Petzl Adjama harness with a new one, and I was pretty pissed to see that in the last 6 or 7 years Petzl managed to take a really nice harness and redesign it to be a pile of junk. The new harness feels like it's padded with cardboard, and the gear loops feel flimsy, and who wants rock a butt-fuck purple harness. (The old harness before they redesigned it was much nice). I suspect they want to push people towards their high-end high price new models but they shouldn't do it by making there mid-price harnesses deliberately crappier. Lame Also, I know inflation is a raging bitch, but since when did every decent harness cost over $100? It wasn't to long ago that those prices were limited to highly specialized big wall harness or those willing to pay the dead bird premium.

If the Denali vicinity and/or the Ruth are getting too urbane try going to the vast majority of the Alaska Range (located outside of the National Park) or Wrangell Saint Elias/Kluane.

FYI - a carbon version of the Tech Machine is supposed to be available ~ February. Looks hyper sexy.

You nailed it. I have a Polartec Alpha insulated jacket from Rab called the Strata Flex that looks to be a pretty close to the Patagonia's nano-air. It's nice...but nothing earth shattering. For various reasons (beyond the insulation) I find myself sticking to a micro fleece with a conditions-appropriate shell for climbing. The Strata mostly just gets used for bike commuting on cool mornings, hiking, etc. I wouldn't buy it again.

Liberty Mountain?

I got the biggest HMG ice pack and I'm very happy. Seriously comfortable for such as light pack. Those dead bird Alpha FL's look pretty sweet too.

Sorry if this is a little off topic, but how long until we see a something new on the market for people that want to climb hard and ski on the same setup? I understand the latest dynafit-style tech boots and bindings are making improvements, but (I think) most people climbing routes like the Cassin are using Silverettas on the acclimation and climbing in the newest double boots like Spantiks. No country for ski boots. I can only speculate that with Sportiva making climbing boots, bindings, and skis, it's only a matter of time before they put together and offer up some sexy system.

Probably because most mountaineering ice axes have become so light and tinny that they're just toys for peak baggers and ski mountaineers. Something like the BD Raven is not something I'd want to climb even short sections of 50deg ice with. There are mountain axes with the weight and pick to climb alpine ice well enough, but that's not what most people seem to be buying.

You're climbing with a guide service, so they will probably have a "gear list." That also means you probably have a set date so you may be going in less than bluebird weather. Some of the coldest times of my life have been on Cascade volcanoes, even in the summer. Don't underestimate the ability of a cold, damp wind to suck the life out of you, regardless of the ambient temp. Down has it's time and place, but you'll be happier with a mid-weight synthetic insulated parka. Look on Steep and Cheap. A nice hard shell will be much more versatile than a soft shell top. If it's really raining or windy you'll want a hard shell. If it's not, do you really need to wear a shell? Stay away from anything with too many bells and whistles. They just drive the weight and price up. You can beg, borrow, or steal most everything else, but don't skimp on boots. They're the most personalized piece of gear (e.i. you might be able to fit a friend's coat but not so likely for boots) and will have a major affect on how much you enjoy your climbs. Plus a good set of boots will be very versatile and last a long time. On Hood last year, I had a lightweight synthetic long sleeve t shirt, an R1 hoody, and a half-zip hard shell on top. I think I had a synthetic boxer briefs, a light set of stretch-woven pants, and a set of hardshell pants. In the pack I had a mid-weight synthetic parka and some mid-weight long johns. The weather was less than ideal. Actually it was dogshit, and I packed accordingly. OTOH, I climbed Adams ten years ago in a cotton shirt. So the weather will ultimately dictate what you use and pack, but if you own something like what I've listed above you can get through a pretty wide array of weather conditions.

Like asking a bunch of rednecks if Ford or Chevy trucks are better. FWIW I like my Cobras but wouldn't have picked them if I had to pay full retail. Off topic, but I got to play with the newest BD Fuel and Grivel Tech Machines at the store recently and both felt pretty sweet. The Grivel particularly felt well balanced and snappy. Maybe someone who has put some pitches on one of these will chime in?

I have a hard time buying that alpine mountaineering is 1.5X more dangerous that base jumping.

Just got back from the Dolomites myself. Hiked climbed Piz Boe from the La Villa/Stern and Alta Via 2 to Pass Pordoi. What a cool area. The high mountain rifugios are unreal.

No comment on those particular boots but I had a set of Aku hiking/light mountaineering boots that lasted forever.

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Get over it. Make some noise (bells, etc.), carry some spray, be smart, pay attention, don't wear headphones. Not to sound blase, but there are a lot of dangers in the mountains that more likely to kill you and are harder to mitigate than bears.

Cool

Tricouni from the approach, near the 3rd lake. Lee above the steepest part (3rd class) Me near the summit, photo by Lee. Me and a summit beer. BYOB, Canada beers are expensive. Photo by Lee. Notes: The road is in rough shape. We are good Americans and we rented a Dodge 4x4 truck, and still had to walk around .4 miles (~.7k) to get to the trailhead. A little less than 6 hours RT with the extra hike to the trailhead. The trail is muddy. Jump in the first big mud puddle you see and get over it. We wore trail runnerss, which is the way to go. No signs of the reported Tricouni Sasquatch ( )

I'm wearing a Rab Alpine Generator for most of my days above 0F. Super happy with it - light, good hood (important), good cut. If it's colder I'll swap it out for a legit down parka. My old WT Belay Parka doesn't see much use these days. It's a Large/Orange and, like DPS, I'd be willing to let mine go for $100. If you have the $, some people swear by the Arcteryx Dually. My guess is that like most deadbird gear its 10% nicer and 200% the cost of the competition, but if you have the money to spend and want to go that extra distance, more power to you.

I'm going to be in Whistler July 25-27 to watch my wife race the Ironman Canada. I'll have plenty of free time and I'd rather stand on top of something than hang out with in-laws. I hear there are mountains around Whistler, or so the rumors go. What are the good ones? I'll probably have trail running shoes but no technical gear with me.

I have 4 grivel 360 screws (1x22cm and 3x16cm) that I'd let go for $100 plus shipping. All are in pretty good shape.

My partner bailed at the last second and going out on a limb hear and I'm trying for someone to fill in for a Liberty Ridge trip. I fly into Seatac Thurday evening. Friday 7/18 - go to the White River ranger stations and get permits. I've already secured the permits, we just need to pick up the paper copy. White River Campground to the Lower Curtis Ridge. Saturday 7/19 - Lower Curtis Ridge to Thumb Rock Sunday 7/20 - Thumb Rock to Summit and descend. We are permitted to stay a night a the Glacier Basin camp near the base of the mountain if we are pooped and don't want to hike all the way back out to the car. Monday 7/21- Either finish the hike out from Glacier Basin or extra weather day. Tuesday 7/22- Extra weather/acclimatization day Wednesday 7/23 - I need to be dropped off in Seattle in the evening. I have all the gear I need, know crevasse rescue, and can climb steep snow and moderate ice. I'd expect any partner to be able to do the same. PM or call me by 907-602-2060 by the end of the weekend. If I haven't found a partner by then I'll rebook my tickets.

Remember that clove hitching pieces in line is a PITA if you're leading in blocks.

Scarpa Omega. Ditch the pos stock liner though, and replace it with something that laces down.