Bill_Simpkins

Ok, Ill post a photo when I get home from work tonight.

Agreed

Soul Mate in Squamish on a very very very cold winter morning by a cold ocean. The climbing was normal for a 5.10 slab, but my fingers and toes were extremely numb. Belaying was just as hard. I don't think my hands and toes have ever been so cold.

I was wrong! Pitch 2 of Zig Zag goes up left from the bolt anchor to a crack that trends right and then up to a ledge then the layback section. Never reaches the snag nor does it actually go all the way up into the overhanging corner (which is fun "Undercover"). I got this info from Dallas's new book. Which ever way you choose to climb, it is fun though. It would be best to consult hiw new book directly. There is also a comment on the Tree Route in The Cirque that you should read.

The guidebook is really good. I've climbed some of the new routes this weekend and they are pretty good. There are A LOT of new routes. Even a bunch of new moderate multipitch sport routes. I'm guessing Mt. Erie will become a major mecca in the next 10-20 years.

"When sulfur is melted, several changes in apperance and viscosity occur. Sulfur melts to form a mobile liquid. Continued heating results in the formation of a viscous red liquid. The viscosity is attributed to a breakdown of the eight-membered rings, followed by linking into long chains. Above temperature of 190 C, the liquid becomes mobile again as the chains break apart. If this liquid is suddely cooled, and amorphous substance known as plastic sulfur."

My goals are all secret. Basically, to complete all my secret goals.

"I just moved and currently don't have a couch. If you're a hot guy or girl that wants to sleep in the same bed as me, or if you just want a tour guide, I'm all for it. I live in the capitol hill neighborhood, walking distance from the bars and clubs the city has to offer. I have one fat cat, but he'll hide in the closet most of the day." NO WAY! LOL! Tell Layton, quick!

The only clients I've heard complain amout RMI are the the disgruntled ones that can't make it to the top and have to be told they can't do it. From what I've heard, RMI does a good job. However, I do agree that hiking up like cattle and sleeping in a stone and metal fort could be imporoved upon. That is where the other guiding companies come in. If you want to get to the top, go with RMI. If you want to do it in more of an Alpine style, to know more of what climbing is really like, and to not be dragged up by the rope, go with someone else. It's good for folks to have that choice now. Hurray!

Some areas can get a little crowded, but it's still nice. There are always places there to rid of the crowds. I would hate to offer this advice though and have it rain that weekend.

I think that time of year our own back yard is about the best place to be. Squamish Marie ....... Squamish. Use your plane money and get a pimped out room in Whistler.

I wonder if someones filling his pocketbook ....

You can go live in a cave for 10 years, come out, and you won't miss a thing.

The double dongs weigh a lot more than the superlights, not the BD's. Sorry for the confusion.

Maybe, let me ask my wife tommorrow.

"I havn't quite learned how to lick my own balls yet, but if you want to lick them, I'm all your's, Bubbles."

I've never carried a knife. I've never needed a knife out climbing. Sharp rocks or pitons with hammer work ok. I've used them hiking for cutting clotheslines and food hangers and cleaning fish, but never climbing. I've been thinking lately about carrying one, because since I just said, "I've never needed a knife out climbing", I probably will next time I go out.

It's for looking around corners.

It sucks. We got broken into at Larrabee. My friend had all his climbing gear stolen out of his truck in his driveway, $5000.00 worth! His renters insurance paid for it but he couldn't get any coverage after that claim.

The CAMP bolo doubles are the same weight or lighter as a SINGLE BD stopper in the small sizes and just slightly heavier in the larger sizes. You could carry as many of these as BD stoppers and have doubles or triples of every size to boot. The only problem is that I think there are a few size gaps in them, that's why I throw in a #5 and #7 BD.

Glad you made it out Bob.

Glad you're ok man.

I also put in a few BD stoppers, as stated in my previous post. I've NEVER ran out of gear(knock on wood). We are talking light alpine here (I think). If REAL rock climbing is involved I just bring a full set of stoppers. If a little 5th class here and there, I bring the double dongs. My usually philosophy is that you can make whatever you have with you work. I can't even remember though the last time I've used more than 5-6 stoppers on a pitch, unless it was aid.

Actually, the double dongs weigh in alot more, but a "set" ie. a full range of sizes weighs in less than a set of standard nuts and 3 of these + 2 BD's take up a lot less room that a set of standard nuts. The superlights look more like RP's.

Do you already have a pair of strap-on crampons? If you do, you can take the front half of them and rig them with light webbing and they serve the same purpose. I do this, works great, plus you get front points. I can take a picture of how I do this if you would like.