Bill_Simpkins

Eat mice.

Granite Gear Alpine Lite. Click Here, probably find a better price somewhere else. PM me for tips for packing a frameless alpine pack if you want.

The EDK is fast and simple. Just make sure it's neat and pre-tensioned. You can tie that knot half-blind and crazy. I HAVE double rappelled on the EDK 100 times (one guy on each rope) with no problems. If I get wigged out, I tie the backup overhand on one strand when there is little for the rope to catch on.

Olympus Stylus Weatherproof Version : Light, small, durable and slightly weatherproof. Slides in chest pocket nicely. Can use with one hand easily. And I didn't even include any sunset pictures!

Do you hike or climb on a regular basis? Once a month? Once a week? More? Less?

Dan......Dan......Dan.......

Downclimb Winnies Slide. Hard Shells are so 90's .....

Oh, IC! In the Cascades: 30m rope 8.3 mm rope crampons- BD Sabertootsh or GrivelG10's depending on boots. ice axe-BD Raven Pro picket mammut alpine lite harness 3 24" mammut runners (one for waist prussik) 1 48" mammut runner (foot prussik) 1 48" tied runner. 1 petzl attache 2 trango superfly lockers 4 trango superflys

I generally use: 30 m 8.3 mm rope alpine harness 1 picket w/ 24" runner and biner ice axe with long leash crampons waist prussik ( 5mm cord, locking biner) foot prussik (5mm cord, 48" runner , locking biner) 1 belay biner 3 extra biners 1 48" tied runner 1 24" sewn runner

Make SURE you know what you are doing before you go tromping across a glacier. It's worth the effort to take a class, read a book, whatever. Because if your buddy goes in a slot and you can't fish him out because your a newb, you'll kick yourself forever. Plus, it only takes away from the pleasure of the trip knowing that your gear is worthless cause you can't use it well. If you have practiced and are confident, a buddy going in a slot MAY be a five minute delay in the trip and a few laughs. Maybe this will get you started: glacier travel 1 glacier travel 2 glacier travel 3 crevasse rescue 1 crevasse rescue 2 crevasse rescue 3 For glacier gear you generally want if you're a newbie: ice axe around $100 Crampons around $100 30-50 meter 8.3 mm rope (generally for glacier only used singly) around $100 Alpine Harness(light and doesn't absorb water) $40 One picket each (travel in groups >=3 for newbies). $30 1-2 ice screws each if no snow on ice(usually depends on season) $50 webbing for pickets, pack etc... $10 waist prussik and feet prussik $10 pulley $15 1 locking belay biner $20.00 1 ATC $15 (or munter hitch=$0) 2-3 additional locking biners $25 4-6 biners $25 Just general guidelines above. Be safe (please).

Be more careful with your spikes man.

Maybe that was it.

Nope. It locks up and you have to push it up from the biner with your other hand to unlock it. Some people like it for that reason. But I don't need it, so I don't like it. I don't think the design will last.

LOL Layton. You know what I mean. Single runner on two biners draw style. My cordellete doubles as bail slings. I think a lot of folks do that. No need to keep in pack. It's also long enough to wrap around a seqoia. I wish they made the rabbit runners a few inches longer so beefy guys like me could wear them.

As far as X-terra and Subaru's, my experieince is that most approaches around here can be done with a car. If you need a truck, just call up a friend or find someone to climb with that has one. A good climbing partner to have is a guy that has a 4x4 if you have a car, or a guy that has a car if you have a 4x4.

I'm with Dru. I basically program and run them. I can't do much else while they are running. You need mental breaks, you can't think technical and creative all day long. It's hard to multitask cause you're mentally tied up witht the complicated scope of the current project. Sometimes I'm busy as hell , some days, not so much. The point is, I'm here at work when people need me, and I do a very good job. Between projects or while they are running I can either spray, read, go fo a walk or go home. I usually choose to spray so if someone needs my I'm here at work. The people I work with know I spray, they spray too.

I'm not a big fan. I used to use them, but in general there really is no advantage. Sometimes they are easier to get on and off your body, you just unclip them, but in general my runners are tripled in alpine draws anyways. They are cool for trees, but I usually girth hitch trees anyways. plus they are a little too short for my torso. They fit a bit tight when I had a jacket on. However though, I use a Rabbit Runner Style Cordellette for belays and I love it. I made it out of tubular webbing which I can cut up for rap slings if needed.

Well, since you are going down to Chilko (very pretty), there are many better lakes for fishing than Piper. Just bring your pole and throw it in where ever. Rainbows in the lakes and sometimes you'll get a Dolly-Vardin in the creeks. Take some small spinners. Let me know if it's still good up there. In some lakes we caught our limit in less than an hour! Fish Lake used to be good, but I believe they put a mine up there. Have fun!

I'm still into establishing or exploring for a better route to the crest via Boot Lake Pass. Even if no trail work can be done, at least we can find the best "schwack" way or rediscover some old path from Road 12 to Boot Lake Pass. Didn't have a chance to get up there during the nice weather, but still planning on it. I want to wait until the snow is gone to see what we are really facing.

Darn. Actually for an ATC I like the BD even with thin ropes. It's simple. If you need more friction just clip a biner to you leg loop and go through that too. The Reverso is nice though for belaying from above. Many people I know swear by it, but I'm stubborn. The BD is light and simple. I found the B52 annoying.

Bring a fishing pole. Piper Lake sometimes has an easy catch, or used to. I really enjoy the Chilko Lake area if you can get down there. There are some nice trails too. I agree, go the other way to avoid The Hill. Bear spray? hmmmmm, never needed it or felt insecure without in that area. Maybe up by Skagway.

Patagonia Guide Pants, not the Super Guides which have gators and suspenders either. They are perfect and simple and very comfortable. I wear them all year around. However, they stopped making them for a while but they are bring them back this Fall, with a few improvments, which I've seen and they are actually good improvements, not crap. Also the Patagonia Talus Pant I believe is pretty simple and nice, but I don't know if they have a zipper. The Black Diamonds seem to work good for many people. I'd reccomend not getting softshells with a liner and if you get too thin the wind will go right through them, like the REI Minstral. Also watch for extra matierial in the crotch. You want a good close fit down there else you could chafe! (ewwwwwww). The Patagonias are a good thickness and the zipper goes both directions, so its easy to take a piss with a harness on.

I thought about getting some light weights this year, but I'm just going to stick with tennis shoes or my light gortex hiking boots until further notice.

Munter Hitch

The pad strapped to the outside is partly used for effect. So, when people look at the pictures in the magazines, they say to themselves, "They are going to sleep up there?" -Adds to the hardman image. It's kind of like the carabiner key chain on crack.