catbirdseat

Got to be North Face of Chair.

Ivan, don't be a downer like that. Those are beautiful pictures.

This one has been done before ad nauseum. Sounds like RC.com.

I just belayed another 84 year old fella up a 5.9+ slab climb. He had to aid at a couple of places, but he got up the thing (with a little encouragement from me).

I think it's a bit lame to use this poor chap and his family to heap ridicule on the idea of forcing climbers to wear beacons.

It explains a lot. Cougars are good at making their prey disappear.

If the bolt is fine the hanger can be replaced.

Depends on whether they flattened just the hanger or mangled the bolt too.

It is a good move. The rubber was starting to migrate out of the climbing area. It's not biodegradable. It was getting thin in places and they had to decide whether to put more in or get rid of it.

Of course you are correct. It will have zero effect on the number of people climbing the route, it has zero visual improvement because the bolt wasn't pulled. It only makes the traverse a little less safe. The deed was done by a moron.

Which route was the neighbor on? Dan's Dreadful Direct or MF Overhang?

Look at it this way. When you post looking for a partner, most often it quickly drops out of sight of those using the "Past 24 Hours" search. By spewing on our partner requests, Raindawg serves to bring the thread back up to the top where it can be viewed more prominently.

Impressive, Muffy. I've always gotten more than a fair shake at Les Schwab Tires. I've been ripped off badly at other stores like Big O. Only takes one bad experience and people will badmouth you for the rest of their lives. Did I say Big O sucks? Oh, good.

Gonna be a hot time in the old town tonight.

It's what comes from DRINKING 32 ouncers.

I recall reading an article that explored the use of "semi-static" ropes for glacier travel. According to the article, such rope are made with elongation intermediate between the static ropes used for hauling, caving, etc. and the dynamic ropes used for leading. They made some pursuasive arguments in favor. I sure wish I could just find the article. One of the best points that the article made was that using dynamic rope when there is say 25 meters out, any fall is likely to be as much as 5 meters long because of stretch. If you fall into a crevass that has a ledge below you stand to hit it, even if your partner does a proper arrest.

Welcome to Seattle, Michael. Let's go climbing!

I agree with Tvash. I think many of the people who view this site are very ordinary people with average skills- people who juggle family, work and who knows what else, trying to get out on the weekends and whenever they can. The sorts of climbs they are doing are comensurate with their skills. People are curious about how some other average climber of similar skill fares on a given route, and they want to hear the "warts and all" type report. It's good to know that other people make mistakes too, and maybe reading about other people's mistakes might save one or two of our own. Just as an example, one of the reasons Mike Layton's TRs are so entertaining is because he doesn't try to make us feel like he's some sort of perfect machine. You can feel a little bit like you are there, because he tells you all about the little odd things that happen. It's all very human. Sorry I just discovered this is the "Spray Version" of this thread. Just a suggestion to the mods- add Spray Version to the Subject so that people using "Search Past 24 Hours" can more easily differentiate. Yes, I know the full path is there, but some of us are rather lazy.

It does seem to have gotten a bit off topic.

I knew Mizuki quite well. I was one of her instructors in the Intermediate Course and watched her first leads on rock and ice. I mentored her as a new trip leader on the Emmons Route on Rainier. The last climb we did was an attempt on Johannesburg in awful, smokey conditions from a brush fire. She maintained good spirits throughout despite having skinner her knuckles on ice and getting hit in the arm with a rock. She was a woman of few words, but many great deeds. I'll miss her deeply. I didn't know Brian quite as well, but on our one trip together he proved to be a fine gentleman. The last time I saw him, he was on the Mountaineer Creek road with a huge pack and equally huge grin on his face, headed for Mt. Stuart.

That one's been around for about 20 years in various forms. It keeps on improving with age. Lots and lots of homonyms to use in your ad hominem attacks.

What a stupid comment. No society is immune from this sort of thing.

I saw no threat of violence in Bob's original post.

If a route is created by bolting and cleaning, it can be named when it is created. I think a natural line should get it's name after it has been led. That's just my opinion. Renaming an aid route when it get's freed is just total bullshit by me. I don't care if it's been done, before. There are lots of aid routes that have NOT been renamed after FFAs.

They have a single device at Stone Gardens that I've used and it works great. I can't recall the make, but I can get back to you on that.