Jump to content

catbirdseat

Members
  • Posts

    13111
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by catbirdseat

  1. That slab is just huge. It's maybe 25 ft wide, 100 ft tall, and 10 inches thick. When it goes it will significantly alter the fourth pitch.
  2. Lucky and Yoder routinely engrave their hangers as a result of having them stolen in the past.
  3. Here's a cautionary tail. I had my first piece blow last December at Joshua Tree. My partner asked me, "do you want the beta for this?". I said, "sure I want the beta". He said, "there's an orange Alien placement in that pocket there". Indeed there was an orange Alien placement, and I proceeded to stuff the cam in rather carelessly on this basis, rather than carefully examining the quality. The pocket flared on the inside and I had pushed the cam in too far. When I fell on it, it inverted and I decked. So if someone gives you beta, use your own head and don't rely too much on the beta.
  4. That crack on Pitch 4 keeps getting wider. It's only a matter of time before that slab goes.
  5. Feel left out Archie? Me too. The guy trotted out every tired cliche in the book about musical tastes. In my experience you can never tell what people like to listen to. I'm always surprised. In reality many people enjoy multiple kinds of music.
  6. catbirdseat

    Gravity Wave

  7. Wow! A quarter ounce!
  8. catbirdseat

    Gravity Wave

    Did you notice how the wind direction veers by almost 90 degrees in a short time period? That's serious frontal activity.
  9. Ah, then the jokes on me. McKillop lied.
  10. It ought to be called Murkwood. What a gloomy looking place!
  11. bang stick... There are several early guides that all list it as "Broomstick". Culbert (1972) Smail (1976) Barley (1979) Campbell (1986) Harlin (1987) It was McLane who first published it as "Boomstick".
  12. It's not treated successfully with cortisone. I've been told that cortisone works in the short term. The problem almost invariably returns.
  13. Ev'rythin's up to date in Kansas City They've gone about as fur as they c'n go! -Will (Oklahoma)
  14. FDA News FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE P07-84 May 9, 2007 FDA Approves Neupro Patch for Treatment of Early Parkinson's Disease. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) today announced the approval of Neupro (rotigotine transdermal system), a skin patch designed to treat symptoms of early Parkinson's disease. Rotigotine is a drug not previously approved in the United States. Neupro is the first transdermal patch approved for the treatment of symptoms of Parkinson's disease. Parkinson's disease, which belongs to a group of conditions called motor system disorders, results from the loss of dopamine-producing brain cells. Rotigotine, a member of the dopamine agonist class of drugs, is delivered continuously through the skin (transdermal) using a silicone-based patch that is replaced every 24 hours. A dopamine agonist works by activating dopamine receptors in the body, mimicking the effect of the neurotransmitter dopamine. The effectiveness of Neupro was demonstrated in one fixed-dose response study and two flexible-dose studies. The parallel group studies were randomized, double-blinded, and placebo-controlled, and involved 1,154 patients with early Parkinson's disease who were not taking other Parkinson's medications. The most common side effects for Neupro included skin reactions at the patch site, dizziness, nausea, vomiting, drowsiness and insomnia, most of which are typical of this class of drugs. Other potential safety concerns include sudden onset of sleep while engaged in routine activities such as driving or operating machinery (sleep attacks), hallucinations, and decreased blood pressure on standing up (postural hypotension). Neupro Patch is manufactured by Schwarz Bioscience of Research Triangle Park, N.C. According to the Parkinson's Action Network, more than 1 million Americans live with Parkinson's disease and 60,000 new cases are diagnosed each year. The four primary symptoms of Parkinson's are trembling in hands, arms, legs, jaw, and face (tremor); stiffness of the limbs and trunk (rigidity); slowness of movement (bradykinesia,); and impaired balance and coordination (postural instability). As these symptoms become more pronounced, patients may have difficulty walking, talking, or completing other simple tasks. For more information National Institute of Neurological Disorders and Stroke http://www.ninds.nih.gov/disorders/parkinsons_disease/parkinsons_disease.htm
  15. Good job, Tvash. That's a route I'd like to do some time this summer.
  16. I think that things will gradually improve in Mexico. It was subject to one party rule for a long time. There is multiparty rule now, and one hopes that the competition for votes and the watchdog effect will finally cut down on corruption and inefficiency.
  17. If plantar fasciitis is caused by necrosis and not inflammation, why is it that it can be successfully treated by cortisone injection?
  18. What worries me? You don't even want to get me started.
  19. catbirdseat

    Dinner

    Meatballs= fat + protein Beer= carbohydrate You have a balanced diet. Enjoy.
  20. Where do you get that statistic? I don't believe it's true. I'm a liberal democrat who happens to be against illegal immigration.
  21. Smart feet are some sort of commercially available insole? Try them and see if they work. I tried Superfeet insoles and they didn't help. Fallen arches are the cause of plantar fasciitis, or so I believe. The fibers in your arch called the fascia pull on the bone of your heel as you rock up on your toes. This causes inflammation at the attachment point. But supporting the arch of the foot, the fascia pull tangentially on the bone rather than away from the bone, and the inflammation with luck will go away. The other way in which insoles work is by forcing your foot to pronate correctly, that is rocking it outward which effectively raises your arch, and takes force off the fascia and the bone of your heel. The thing that can be done with custom orthotics is that the pronation can be adjusted by building up thickness on the inside as needed. I'm no expert and Layton could probably say it much better than I.
  22. I'm optimistic that a solution can be worked out that preserves fish and provides lots of clean power. Seems like quite a challenge to make a device that can withstand the horrendous corrosion potential of salt water, be serviceable and still economically feasible.
  23. A short sling MIGHT increase rope drag. It depends on the topography of the rock. If the rock projects above the piece in question then certainly you'd want to sling it long. Sherri, don't get wrapped up in rule-based thinking. Do what makes sense given the situation. Rope through carabiner isn't what causes drag, it's rope over rock. If the short sling does not cause the rope to be pulled against the rock you will not get excessive drag.
  24. If the first piece has a shorter sling than the ones above it there will be no outward force on those pieces because their slings will never go tight, but rather hang down on the rope. That first piece can be a cam or it can be nuts set in opposition, or a single nut slotted really well against an outward pull. If a cam, it should be angled out a little more than you would normally set a cam.
  25. You know that I am right.
×
×
  • Create New...