billcoe

1st pitch or 2nd? How many points on 8a do ya get for 10 laps up the SE Corner?

Yes, if we want to get on real rock, we have to go to Washington or California. LOL! Adam and I were kicking steps in dirt to get up the base of the Steeple. Wish we'd had an ice axe. You guys are so blessed with all those long solid granite routes nearby and cracks that soar to the sky. This is a crackless but interesting conglomerate of ash/like welded tuff matrix with solid Andesite/basalt nodules in it. The water has eroded the ash, leaving these solid awesome knobs sticking out crazy every which where. It's off the hook fun and crazy climbing when the knobs stay put. Side note: Ben Priestly, the awesome dude who found and turned me onto the spot: conveyed an idea to me. Nothing would please me more than if Ben's dream could be continued and fulfilled. I'll screw it up, maybe he can rephrase it, but it is something like this: this should be a place where bolts are not argued over. Where people don't run up, do a super-bold FA with the odd tied off knob and after proclaiming their climbing brilliance, say that no one can add any bolts to their awesome FA. Now some of you in the current email loop know that I've been sort of known for having an anti-bolting tirade thing going at The Far Side: which is also in the process of being outed. Please realize that mentality is also in support of the person who discovered and turned me onto that spot, and that these locations are different as night and day. So are my attitudes. Coethedral, this place, will be a place where all of Ben's bros, all climbing bros, can enjoy some bolted knob routes and treat each other with respect, dignity and in a mutually supportive environment. It's everyone's place now, but mostly yours. You guys be sure and thank Benny when you see him for the dream and his vision. regards Bill ps, I'd like to thank my bros for renaming it from Cathedral to Coethedral. I don't have that kind of imagination but it's a fantastic name given that there's already a "Cathedral" in every state of the union probably including Iowa and most likely Puerto Rico too, and maybe like 12 of the damn things in California - 4 in Yosemite alone. When I think "Cathedral", I want to think classic New Hampshire and Whitehorse anyway.

DaaaBulls! DaaaaBears!! DaBeaconnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn!!!

HAHAHAHAH....Wait....he's not a Muslim? Didn't he want to move the White House to the 9/11 location and live there with all of the Ayatollahs........ I mean, that might be the rumor I just started. It's OK, they say 20% of the people in Kentucky can't locate their state on a map. Once the word Kentucky is pointed out to them, 10% of the 20 are still unsure. Another new internet stat I just made up for you. ps, google Chode or Choad for enlightenment on your question.

I figured you'd have signed up before you posted. Sorry!

changed

I'm sure he's kidding. You can't be yoinging around in a gear shop when ya want to be be racking up mileage out on the rock. Plaidman would be a good great tour guide though.

Mito, that's not my pic I just borrowed it off the net. Sorry! Anyone ever recon the significant cliff on Humbug Mt? Looks to be @ 1000 foot high, but the topo lines are more like 400-600 foot range. I think I'll take a bike ride into there at some point. Could maybe use some company if anyone is into it. The rock at Saddle could be done....but...it's very sharp conglomerate, you'd get hurt bad in any non-overhanging fall....even I have standards, as low as they are. LOL! BTW, Jeff Thomas said he thought Bob McGown had done some routes there. I just talked to Bob Thursday but totally forgot to ask him about what he's done down there. Bet he's done something. Take care all!

Congrats on that working out. Imagine being way out in the backwoods. Damn good thing I'm overweight. Got hit @ 200-300 (hard to count as the stings were so close in some areas) while rapping a route we were looking at last year. Unfortunately, my rope got stuck with me 20 feet below the bastards (they didn't follow) and I also had to rig a new rap point and do a 2nd rap to finally get down. We still haven't done the route, but the name is there. The Beekeeper route. They say August/late summer is when they are most aggressive, thanks for the reminder. pfft: BTW, they were Yellowjackets on the Beekeeper route, not bees.

Kind of hoping we could keep it positive and upbeat. I went out and did some laps tonight at the Butte, if you could call it that trying to work my shoulder back into shape, one of the gentleman had gone out there last weekend. Says he likes it better than Smith Rock. I squinted to see if he was bullshitting me, but I think he was straight up. ps: the picture is the great PDX climber and major dude Ben Priestly, who first went out here way back when he was in school and turned me onto the spot, and always upbeat (till that last post LOL) Plaidman. Previously reported and better pics here Scott: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/970763/Searchpage/1/Main/75866/Words/priestly/Search/true/4th_ascent_of_The_Salathe_High#Post970763 Some more info for anyone perusing.... http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/969397/Name_of_the_new_place#Post969397 Anyway, Ben had a vision of a place where people wouldn't be arguing over bolts, where routes would be crafted so that they would be challenging but with enough bolts that it wasn't crazy, and that some trad dude wouldn't just show up and wrap slings on knobs and then tell everyone else to "piss off I did it first" if it really needed to have bolts. Where peace and harmony would be the order of the day and no one ever would be hungry and the flowers were always blooming. I tried to stay true to his vision and with the exception of one route (search on keyword "Corn" in spray for that route description TR) think the place is starting to head there. Like to see that continue. I had hoped we could avoid the acrimony, arguments, anger and hate (And bolting arguments) out here at the new spot that seems too often to follow the tribe around. Interesting that on another thread it's about a spot where Jim didn't want bolts and he wanted natural gear routes to predominate. I tried to stay true to that vision as well. I haven't counted but perhaps @4 protection bolts in 30 some odd routes or so....for me, not speaking for the other routes or other folks. I'm not convinced it's the best idea, but will say that it's in a great location for it. Right off the highway, near town. While this new spot is the opposite of that. No cell service, hike out, bit of a drive to civilization. So it's a good thing not to risk it all. Anyway, thanks for the thanks Cordory Man. We all (those who have been coming out here) hope everyone appreciates, enjoys and helps each other out with no rancor when out here. That's why it's being shared. It's being shared/handed over and is your place now. Take care bros.

Nice one potentially too far. Not sure where you are flying into or located. If that's in your driving range, here's one more that's stunning, the Hoh (spelling) river in the Olympics.

Depending on the climbing and skiing you like to do of course but Bend would have you well covered, but if I was picking I'd go Ellensberg or Leavenworth. It's said that Leavenworth has a high cancer rate, especially amongst children, as they spray pesticides etc on the apples (the orchards butt right up against town) pretty heavily and get some drift into town. If I was a pregnant woman I'd want to be elsewhere, but it's real nice town otherwise.

Good choice Arob. Another one is the Eagle creek trail off the freeway near Bonneville dam. Up to the waterfall/tunnelfalls underpass or 7 mile camp. Easy hiking, 14 mi round trip or turn around when ever, spectacular views. http://web.oregon.com/hiking/eaglecreek.cfm

It might be better to pass on it. If you are still raring to go, just park on the freeway, walk straight over towards it and as you approach you will see a shallow groove right in front of you. Make sure it's dry as this in on the N side and gets some moss accumulation. Climb this with minimal pro to the top. It's easier climbing but very little protection. There is a rap anchor up there but you might take some long slings in case they look bad. Don't toss your ropes over the train tracks when you rap. Rock on CM!

JH, if you've ever spent even a few seconds wondering why folks get upset and cranky with you: and incessantly ride you online, you have only to review this thread and our exchange to find the answer. Please spend some time reflecting on this. Regards Bill

Could be he caught Jim going at it with his hens, I can't speak for why JH chooses that path, but IMO it's wrong. Pretty simple here to me, you're either kicking Jim in the nutz and swimming upstream against what most folks are calling it, or you're onboard and not. For myself, like most people I'm on and I'd like to see everyone else all onboard and maybe we can avoid the usual drama.

Free double D sounds sweet, and soft...mmmmmmmmm double d's......mmmmmmm. Wish I been there for that TTS.

You mean you call it the Far Side. There are a lot of folks who did not appreciate you coming in a changing the name. Lets not forget it lay there for 20 years untouched before 2006 when the first crew (in 20 years) started cleaning and route setting. Then you and Jim showed up later and changed the name. Jim will probably state he called the the far side years ago. I suspect his memory is about as good as me climbing 5.12 these days. Screw you Kevin. I didn't change the name, I'm supporting Jim when I call it The Far Side. Why you want to show such disrespect is beyond me. The name is The Far Side, that's what most people call it. That's what Jim calls it. Did he do something bad to you that you would treat him this way? If you caught him banging your mom, dog or chickens I'll change my tone, but your attitude, IMO, is bullshit.

It's called the Far Side. That's what most of us call it. If anyone wants to call it something different, why not just go up and kick Jim in the nutz as I suspect he'd prefer that. Chad, I just heard October. (I'm very embarrassed to admit that I'd totally forgot about the new version/book coming out) I suspect he'll have some real good new stuff in there too. Maybe Tim will get on with an update. You doing laps tonight? I need to gently work my shoulder.

Nate called it right on P 2 of the Flying Dutchman. I think it was Eric and Mark Deffenbaugh FFA it. It might be that Eric TR'ed it first, but am not sure on that. Marks the guy to lay it out for us.

They both will be fucked, just like straights who have been getting reamed in the divorce process. Welcome, gay folks, to divorce court. Que up Mr. Hands post explaining man/horse love in 3...2...1....

Congrats Bouncy on surviving. I'm only posting as one of my signature lines anytime something strange or rude occurs to myself or a friend is very similar to your sign off up there: "Bad dawg, no biscuit", and so I have gotten some calls asking if I'm OK. To my friends, it wasn't me..............well...this time anyway. Now you can get back to washing the brown in your underwear out.....WOW!

Yeah, I believe so TTS. I could certainly see these catching anyone's attention JH. These were Aluminum and the metals were mixed, causing galvanic corrosion. As far as I know, Beacon had no aluminum hangers. You would have noticed it in the conversion to new stainless when you pulled the old stuff off. If they ever were any there, I suspect they are long gone with your new stuff. So not something thing to worry over I believe. Kong has not made aluminum hangers for years as far as I know. Broken Index Hanger link http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/902836/Searchpage/1/Main/69383/Words/index+hangers/Search/true/Re_TR_Index_Broken_Bolt_Hanger#Post902836

Climbmax has the miniguides. You have to go there for the info. A selection of mostly easy bolted routes. I ask only that you don't give out directions, but let folks go get one from them. Trying to repay a favor to those folks. Thanks. Climbmax Mountaineering 928 NE 28TH Ave. Portland, OR 97232 * Have fun, be safe! Bon appetit!

No, this part. He was not fired Rob. He resigned as it says in the post above where you put this one. The reason for the resignation seems clear as well. Here it is reposted. Take care