billcoe

You've mentioned the Index bolt failures about 3 times now. Are you referring to these bolt hanger failures?

Well, the bros renamed the place Coethedral, it's @ 55 miles from Portland city limits and it's primarily bolted climbing. Route lists and directions are available at Climbmax Mountaineering. Anyone wants to do some new routes, I'd estimate that there are at least 150-200 more routes available.

You're not going to punch yourself in the balls like he says? LOL! Nice call! Me either. Bush handed the man a 700 billion dollar hole and said, have a nice day I'm out of here. How fucked up is that? President Obama needs to get government programs and government spending under control without crashing our economy. There is no larger issue for us and our country IMO. Who the hell wants another borrow and spend Republican in there when we haven't dug out from the last one. In fact, it's appears that it's been a borrow and tax and spend democrat that took over means little to your kids who will be paying the bill for all of this. Hope and change means not having this tired old Bush and Obama drunken borrowing and spending shit continue. I doubt the health care bill which will be coming online soon will help there and I expect it's the reverse, but pulling us out of needless wars in the middle east will. As will tightening up our energy usage to match supply so we don't have to send fine men like you to fight in stupid-assed needless wars Mike. I still believe in hope and change, but I'm thinking along the lines of balancing the budget and taming our trade imbalance. Take that bitchez!! It looks like Ariana Huffington's one year love affair with him is over now. So at least she won't have to hit herself in the balls. Perhaps once she starts seeing her personal tax bill increase, while we all dig a deeper financial burden hole for her kids to suffer under, she'll see the light too. I'm not talking about someone like Bush coming in and spending us into hell and making a new hole either. http://www.huffingtonpost.com/arianna-huffington/memo-to-americas-middle-c_b_686820.html

TRY reading the words immediately above you for a clue Rob LOL! I can loan you my little square purple reading glasses if you need them. I'd be afraid that if I just copied and pasted the words would wouldn't read them. Good luck with that

Larry could you clarify what you mean by this post?

Hey, the back of my head is getting raw! Crap, I simply must have forgot the smiley face that indicated I knew what was on but was making a joke (2 jokes) about it. Also see my current "Obama is a Muslim" comments HAH (it was a joke as well)! However, I got the happy face in there that time! LOL! You forgot I posted this ship while complaining about our invasion of Asscrackistan after the Taliban had rejected our oil pipeline proposal....CR being a board member of Chevron, having taken George Schultzes place on the board? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/George_P._Shultz a couple years back? I remember. Oh yeah, I remember. In fact, all Americans including big mouth hypocrites like jb who participates in and benefits from this, should be happy when driving their big SUV's that the first public work project we were able to get approval on from the new democratic government in Asscrackistan was the new Oil Pipeline! Maybe it cost a few lives but god forbid we try conservation. Woot! Let me toss another one in there Hmm, seriously, I have respect for Dr Rice, even for Hillary who is doing the job these days, and more for Colin Powell. Furthermore, BO did get the CAFE standards raised, and seems to understand the worlds out of control energy needs and the coming crisis which is related to BOTH SUPPLY AND DEMAND Wish the last guy had been aware of both of those....anyway, good man for doing the right thing. I think he even knows that we NEED TO GET OUR OUT OF CONTROL GOVERNMENT AND GOVERNMENT SPENDING UNDER CONTROL OR WE WILL ALL BE LIVING IN JB MOMS BASEMENT WITH JB. Did I say that out loud? Opps. Thats all, and what time is it SOBO? Beringer time! Woot! Glass #2!

OMG! Whats Bush doing with Obamas wife? Is that Arab tongue about to snake in there? WT hell?

DMM Anarchist Ice Tools $142.50 each http://www.climbmaxmountaineering.com/dealoftheday.html woot!!

Map maker, but maybe both:-)

Nope, it's cause he's a Muslim.

Anne Coulter Al Franken

This ? Is this because he's a Muslim? What would we be doing if McCain was in, and he died and left Sarah Palin in charge? Oh, nevermind, she'd have quit by now and you'd have the AG, probably Alberto Gonzoles, as President. Then anyone who voted for McCain/Palin would have done what? Cut off their dicks?

Looks like you're still stalking. I don't believe you are Plaidmans ex though, as showing up here like this would be a total 100 percent crazy stalking bitch move. What ya gonna do next? Kill his rabbit? Plaidman doesn't have any money. He sold me a piece of of his gear so that he could afford to share the gas for a Yosemite trip ...which he didn't end up taking. I am still holding it for when he wishes to redeem it. As you know, he's not a rich man other than being rich in spirit and soul. Still, it's good advice to all of us. Like you, I too am wishing Bill well in court and through what is undoubtedly a stressful time.

http://www.humansexmap.com/ Someone with way too much time on their hands!

Yeah, yeah yeah. I have a barrel of stainless Fixes in the basement. Maybe 2 barrels. I have no problem leaving hangers behind.....other places. I've recently put in and left 358 of them, the big 1/2 diameter ones. Stainless. But that was where they can be expected to be left unmolested for a while and on new routes. Not at this location as these are established routes and there is no need. In fact I did put in a single set of the Stainless Fixe chain anchors out here: the ones which have the hanger integrated into them, and have been waiting to see how long they stay there. CC.com poster Lodestone jumped in and was able to get one of the bolts pulled out with that 4' crowbar and we reused that hole. The other one snapped, but he had it loose and it was close. It was the first time I've heard of a 3/8 being reused. Greg Barnes of the ASPCA says he gave up on being able to reuse a 3/8 hole. We're at about 2 months they've been there I think and they have not been molested .....yet. I Loctited them down, but that's no guarantee they'll be there tomorrow when someone pulls them for their project elsewhere. I go look to see if they are still there everytime I'm in the vicinity and have been amazed that they have lasted this long. The chains are plenty strong, that's a 1/2" diameter bolt, it's bigger and stronger than what was traditionally utilized up there since @ 1980 (3/8 x 3 studs and steel chain)- and chain is used because it tends to be left alone. However, if you would like to donate the hardware or the money to see how long until your shiny new hangers last till some chump yanks them for a project he's working elsewhere, step up. Sad, but from what I've seen they have about a 15 min life expectancy from when you first turn your head and some douche with a wrench shows up I'd say.

We are so blessed with you continually telling us what is proper and how to live our lives. What would we ever do without you? [/sarcasm]

I'm more worried about the damage bozos like Rand Paul inflict if they're elected partially thanks to a "commitment to legalization" they never intend to pursue anyway. I don't know Rand Paul but it seems to me that in this case you are discussing (legislating, decriminalizing or legalizing drugs) it's another example where the public needs to do better research. As the public votes in "lock them up and leave them locked up" laws, and more and more laws gets passed by the legislators (but few rescinded), we are seeing more people locked up for less and less reasons. We need to stop heading down that path, and let the social scientist/experts who study these issues and publish Phds, run the show with some scientifically studied best practices. Recidivism rates (wasted lives and costs) go up when you lock up and toss the key. As far as the public workers thing goes, I'd rather pay a councilor 1/2 the money that a prison guard makes (which would mean an immediate pay raise for them based on what I think their comparison salerys are) and they are still underpaid for what they can potentially do for our country if we would stop meddling and let them work. As far as that goes, I personally know some who are overpaid, but not all public workers are over paid, and in fact some of them work a hell of a lot harder and probably for much less scratch than lots of us posting here. However, the fact that government programs, worker counts, military and just spending in general just keeps increasing as if we are drunken sailors with unlimited funds on shore leave - totally disconnected from reality or the economy, needs to be addressed and addressed real soon or we as a country will be going down the toilet - all of us. Every damn one of us. For myself, I see a connection between loss of freedom and increased government programs and desire for control. It's unhealthy and in my view undesired. This kind of needless bullshit "Fire-breathing bartenders arrested, face 45 years By: Scott McCabe Examiner Staff Writer August 17, 2010 Bartender Tegee Rogers performs a fire-breathing trick, a Friday night tradition at Jimmy’s Old Time Tavern since 1999. (Courtesy photo) Two fire-breathing bartenders face up to 45 years in prison each for performing flaming bar tricks. Jimmy's Old Town Tavern owner Jimmy Cirrito said his bartenders have been entertaining his customers -- by juggling bottles of alcohol and spitting out streams of flames using matchbooks and lighters -- for more than a decade and no one's complained. But shortly after midnight on July 24, two of his longtime employees were hauled out of the Herndon bar in handcuffs and charged with three felonies each plus other misdemeanors "They were being treated as if they were terrorists, charged as if they intentionally tried to burn down the tavern," Cirrito said. Fairfax County fire investigators charged Tegee Rogers, 33, of Herndon, and Justin Fedorchak, 39, of Manassas, with manufacturing an explosive device, setting a fire capable of spreading, and burning or destroying a meeting house. They also were charged with several state fire code misdemeanors. Both men have worked at the tavern nearly since it opened. They both recently became fathers and are very anxious about facing serious criminal charges, Cirrito said. Jimmy's Old Town Tavern bartenders have performed the fire-breathing act for 13 years, at first doing the tricks on special occasions like birthdays or to honor a fallen fireman, police officer or soldier, Cirrito said. By 1999, the fire-breathing bartenders had become a Friday midnight tradition, he said. The bar uses the fire-breathing bartenders on its advertisements. Cirrito said an investigator told him that the marshals received a letter in the mail with a photo taken of a previous performance at the bar. Cirrito said he has never received a warning from the fire marshals, and he would have stopped if marshals had given him a warning. "But I don't think we've done anything wrong," he said. "There's a lot of fire in restaurants. I've been served flaming desserts, I've roasted marshmallows on tables, I've seen 75 candles and sparklers on cakes, and I've seen bartenders perform the tricks coast-to-coast and no one's been arrested." Read more at the Washington Examiner: http://www.washingtonexaminer.com/local/Fire-breathing-bartenders-arrested_-face-45-years-510761-100943524.html#ixzz0x1TCJBrW" Call them up and tell them to stop it or pay the price. Follow up with a nasty letter. Done. They cease and the public is safe. What did that cost? $10? $20? Then get on to something serious -murders, rapes, etc. What does this overreaction do for any of us? It could have been stopped just as fast with a phone call and much less staff time. Crazy stuff. "Manufacturing an explosive device!" Bullshit! The assholes doing this prosecution should all be fired for lack of any common sense, intelligence and decency. They should be forced to pay us the money they have already wasted. Where is the accountability? That's my thoughts. Take care all.

Not me dude. I know that he did spend a lot of time and money doing replacements. In my experience, if they're the old steel Rawl 5 pieces, those may be ticking timebombs (although I haven't heard of a failure yet), go for it. But if they are regular old rusty steel wedge anchors, the steel get's rusty and they look like shit, but they only look that way - they don't crank out. I figure that in a horizontal placement where it's been drilled straight down and is in moisture all the time, if you can't pull it straight out and use the same hole, leave it be. I learned this by going up to the Butte at the top of Jack of Hearts. Someone had removed a chain on one of the bolts that went straight down. They'd left this rusty crappy stud. As this thing rusted quickly then sat in water all the time for the next 20 years till I showed up, it looked like total 100% shit. I kept hearing complaints and fear about these old fuckers till finally I saw an otherwise unroped kid pull straight out while trying to wiggle over the edge and establish himself on rappel. I held my breath and was about to say a prayer waiting for them to pull right out in a tensile failure mode and the kid to auger in, and the resulting fatality -unfortunately right in front of my nose. This is something from experience I have learned to dislike more than anything in climbing. That is, watching a person die right in front of you. The wailing, crying and nashing of teeth of the loved ones left behind lingers in your memory. But the kid lucked out and the damn things surprisingly held. So to prevent the next stupid ass who did this from dieing, I figured I'd start by replacing those 3 old wedge anchors as they were some of the worst looking out there. I just assumed from the way they looked that it would be an easy thing. The plan was to simply lever the old ones out and put in the new stainless ones in the same holes. I show up with a 3' crowbar and am unsuccessful of budging a single one. I give up for the day but I come back with a larger 4' crowbar and after about a half hour of working on it and coming close to what I perceive to be blowing the rock out, I give up. I then added a single new chain with a monster 1/2 x 7" Stainless wedge anchor to back up the old bolts, which are still there. Anyone who thinks that the old steel wedge anchors are crap is welcome to go out there and take a whack at pulling them. However, do not blow out the rock, and as they are put in the best location, use the same holes. I figure that there are not any that need replacement at Beacon, and if any are found, then folks can discuss that single bolt here or that other bolt over there, and choose to replace, back it up with a 2nd or as I currently feel for most of them, leave it alone. If they get replaced, hey, whatever, but there's something to be said for the patina of the old ones and learning that they will hold as you will certainly encounter worse most other spots you climb. I've since just added a chain here or a chain there, but have generally learned to leave them be. I think that cranking off the stud, tapping it down and sealing the hole with epoxy is the best you can hope for for appearances, but not always the best thing to do. The best thing for most placements (not all, certainly not all) is probably to just leave it. At some point as it corrodes, someone with a long crowbar will be able to lever it out, and the hole can be reused with a new stainless wedge anchor installed. That's my thoughts on that. Here's the way it plays out in person, and it's certainly not as pretty. Here are some of the better looking, less crappy looking ones where I added a single (painted stainless) chain so that total failure won't happen and kill some kid.

It was the best of times.... It was the worst of times.... no joke at all, perfectly described. Good to see you alive and healthy while checking in rednoze, got to be nicer in Alaska now than anywhere in the middle east.

I had some friends hire mules to carry haul bags into the high sierra - thought that was interesting. Of course, it's deriguer in Peru.

ha ha ! Pretty boyz? What U takin' bout willis? That dude is flat out unattractive!

Why bother asking? For myself, until he becomes a real person, and not a faceless/nameless flamethrower who appears not to read more than the first 3 or 4 words of others posts, I've giving up reading his stuff. I've tied in with many on this site, and it's been good. Jayb and his lovely wife for instance, and would do so again if he ever wanders back over this way. If JB ever stops ranting and becomes a climber, I'd probably start reading his stuff. Until then: I'm done with the person (I say person as I don't know if jb is a guy or a girl actually). I suspect if he used his real name, he'd be a lot nicer. Prole, who shares a lot of similar views as jb, seems to actually read your entire post before he disagrees. LOL! Furthermore, he posts stuff on occasion that cracks us all up, so he'll still be on the reading list for me.

Hola Beacon Pole smokers! Same same, can someone finally put out a new edition? Wait, nevermind as it's the samesame - no need for a new edition. Samesame

http://travel.nationalgeographic.com/travel/national-parks/infinite-photo/

Welcome to the dark side. LOL! The costs of the Iraq war took us down the down the financial toilet, getting military spending under control should be one of those things which would be looked at first. Hope and change. Hope and change. Maybe the out of control can be looked at after the next election or the one after that once all the same un-important things get re-re-evaluated again. Hey, it's only money!