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billcoe

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Everything posted by billcoe

  1. billcoe

    Hey Republifucks!

    Stop with the bullshit tax cuts, cut the g-damn out of control borrowing and spending. Most rational citizens were hoping that we could get that last borrow and spend Republican out of office and finally get the budget under control. Instead - it's like a rabid runaway weasel that's about to flop over dead from overexertion. Stop with the massive borrowing from the Chinese and needless spending. It's not a "republifuck" or a "demofuck" issue, its an American one that's is taking our country down a toilet in a bi-partisan manner. I blame the last asshole more than this one but it doesn't change a fucking thing does it?
  2. LOL Keny Powers, rough stuff! Igor Igor..... [video:youtube] [video:youtube]
  3. for Danial Harro.
  4. How high did you and Shane get this thing? Just curious, I'm not climbing for shit these days. Just got spanked at Smith and Trout Creek this weekend (thought about Jim Anglin) and definatly have no business trying it, probably don't have any business even reading about it:-), just curious. I think I saw one of the Nates at Trout, maybe you need to grab one or both.... get it while the weather is good.
  5. Bring yer shoes to work tomorrow and lets head up after work and get a burn. Leave the chalk at home, this isn't that difficult and if the object is to get pumped, you'll get it even faster with slippery hands. I'll have cams to fondle.
  6. ...or just take a round rat tail file and make the thing flat again. Lifes already too short:-)
  7. AWESOME! Glad to see you lads getting it done! Hey, that stuff if steeper than you pic shows, you got to line the camera up so the trees are vertical and not at an angle to show how steep it is. Like tip it to the left 20 degrees. Something like this. Nice to see folks on that stuff! Righteous, you need to get in gear to get some routes in there before the weather closes it down and it's too cold to put in new routes and Tim puts it in the guidebook. Edited for the Hound!
  8. Not mine: good guy, honest and honorable etc. email Robert at: rt banes @ yahoo.com (with no spaces) if you're interested. Gonna be winter soon and you'll have wished you have bought this. At least thats what my arthritis is indicating. Ice Tools: $250/pr Grivel Light Wing – Hammer Grivel Light Wing – Adze Ice Screws: $70/both Grivel 360 Ultimate Ice Screw – 22cm Grivel 360 Ultimate Ice Screw – 17cm Ice Pickets: $35/both Yates Expedition Picket w/cable Yates Expedition Picket w/o cable Pack: $30 Grivel Manu 13L Pack and Gear Sling** (**The pack and gear sling can be used together or separately)
  9. It just gets confusing when one ages...sorry for misunderstanding. Enjoy your time alone!
  10. WTH? You climbed a pitch with your daughter, then ditched her and ran laps with Tim? Shame shame shame, but congrats on getting in some mileage too:-)
  11. billcoe

    Follow the Money

    You wouldn't be so damn happy if we sent your ass to say...Somalia....now would ya? HA HA!, beat that irrefutable logic. BOOYAH!
  12. Ditto on the thanks. Those guys had a great time and did a great job....I want to thank them all for the inspiration.
  13. If there's no pictures it didn't happen Dave:-) LOL! Should be good weather bout everywhere this weekend! Enjoy the last of it - Woot! I was going to do some laps on beacon maybe YW and got invited to Smith.....(insert old and out of shape whine here:-) Dude invited me is great company, fun, smart, ..the whole package, but uber sick strong....I'm sure I can belay that level, but don't know what I'm going to be climbing.... should be interesting. Haven't been to Smith for a long while.
  14. billcoe

    Follow the Money

    teenage speak..."WHATevar!" OMG!
  15. This was interesting.....
  16. Nice Dave!! Hey, hold old is that lil one? Wes's lil girl is like 6 or something and is turning into a climbing fanatic:-). I think that I use to be able to outclimb most 3rd graders, not so sure any more. Climbing gyms are making these lil guys sickly strong before they even see real rock. I know that Stan and Rudys kids are climbing circles around me, Rudy posted some pics of his son TR'ing City Park, so whats one more? She'll be able to ropegun those hard cracks out there for us when we get old. It's always nice to be able to hang with your family though, congrats!
  17. Thanks Mikel! I'll print them out and bring them along for folks. I have a couple of Splitter cams on the rack. Their claim to fame is that they say that they are optimized for just 2 cams in placements like in the Totem drawings. Anyone want to join in, the more the merrier, the ground is flat and there's lots of room for everyone. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/982933/GEAR_WHORE_ALERT_PDX_after_wor#Post982933
  18. billcoe

    Follow the Money

    The "government", or what passes for it -the many "governments" or those seeking political power via military means, in Somalia is huge in comparison to their GDP. Furthermore, their system of commerce, which jayb is rallying about, is even less free and open than here in the states. That's what you get with more gov't regulation like you continually espouse. Jayb doesn't want that, you do. So YOU move there. CYA!
  19. billcoe

    Follow the Money

    Jayb, you really raised some great points. Yet until we achieve that dream of a perfect tax situation you describe, one that I've been hearing of all my life but have never seen yet, I'd want to see who's buying whom and who is paying for what. There should be a dollar limit of who reports what. No one cares if little Jimmy puts .50 cents in Barak Obamas cookie jar for advertising. Sure, this reporting limit will be arbitrary. But congress is there to regulate commerce -that is their job, and they will always have lobbyists coming around to suck the bread off the table. Always. Even if you change the tax situation for corporations. Shine a light on them all like cockroaches in the dark is all most of us ask. Whats wrong with transparency and honesty? It's all most of us really need or want. Regards to all
  20. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/982932#Post982932 Top of the Butte after work Tuesday 10/19. I'm bringing a bunch of minuscule (this means small) cams and my shoes. All are welcome to shoe up, LOL, or SHOW up I mean...hrk hrk hrk.... If anyone needs directions, let me know, but I'll be at the upper easy wall off and just below the front road where it enters the loop on top. There is a stairwell of railroad ties which drops you down out of sight, I'll be there. Daylight is getting to be a premium, so roping up on the cliffs ain't happening for me, but a lap or 2 on the traverse wall is. Just bouldering, no belaying or ropes although you certainly can as I see people rope up there. See you there if you are interested and you can plug and yank on it to your hearts content. We're really interested in seeing which of these small cams work the best in flaring, shallow, irregular and shitassed placements - bring the favs off your own rack to compare and contrast against these. 7/16-1" size range. Blue and Yellow Totem cam size, 13.8-27.7.
  21. True. I think that has been due to a mindset many of us have carried which was that offsets were for Yos pin scars. I've found that is not true around here in basalt. Once I started carrying offsets out at the Farside in the Gorge and other spots, I realized that they really worked better than anything else most of the time. Better even than regular Aliens. Sadly - of the 30 some odd routes I fa'ed out there, I had these damn Alien offsets on my rack many many times, which kind of screws any bros who might not have a set of them. That's why I am of the mind that anyone who follows one of those routes, if they think it needs a bolt, talk it over with those who are active at the area, those who have done the route in question, and if you get agreement -just put the %$#* bolt in. Make sure you don't piss off the regulars or someone who feels that the Metolius offset is a bomber piece and would be offended, and don't screw it up, do a good job and put in a solid stainless steel bolt(s) and hanger(s). In either case, as said above, I want to put the Yellow to the test. I have the blue and yellow Totem, which gets it in the range of the Black Diamond C3's which I'll include the #2 c3 (14.2-22.6 mm, 0.56-0.89 vs 13.8-22.5 for the smallest Blue Totem)- some 16 cams total - on a biner that I cam haul out and folks can try every combo in any placement that they find. 1 caveat, I got old and fat and I really need a high mileage day where I get some laps in and I don't want to be screwing with stuff like this till I am totally yoinked and beat. If not, or better yet, lets plan to all go bouldering up at the top of Rocky Butte Tuesday after work and play around with the stuff in the shallow placements on top, looking at how different cams fit in different placements. Lets plan on that. Anyone want to see all this and stuff them in the cracks yourself, come up to the top of the Butte after work Tuesday. Bring your shoes and do the traverse too. Don't need chalk, it's easy climbing so leave it at home. If anyone I know, especially any 250 lb giants *cough* Kenny* cough* Ivan* cough * Benny* cough, wants to aid any steep shallow Indian Creek or Beacon type of cracks in the 3/8"-1" range, let me know, I have your rack right here:-) I'd really want to hear that feedback as well. Want the cams back by Tuesday is all, we can meet at the Butte after work.
  22. Ammon McNeely on the first one day ascent of Horse Chute. Photo Chris Mac
  23. Steel bolts up there...someone's gonna have to replace them with stainless at some point as it's wet up there on Garfield. Any nominees for the job? LOL!
  24. Thanks Mikel, I just saw your response. The Silver/Red Alien and Totem Purple visually appear to be close in size. The CCH web site shows the range for the Silver/Red cam (I converted they had listed in inches .61-1.3") to be 15.5 - 33.00mm which compares to the purple Totem at 20.9 - 34.2mm. When If I get them back from Bryan I will check the Alien and the Yellow Totem head to head/placement to placement. Actually, Plaidman (Scott Peterson) appears totally enamored with them, and it looks like he's going to pick mine up from Bryan and take them over to the local climbing shop Climbmax, so they can evaluate if they want to carry them. At some point I want it remembered that these are my cams though. Anyone wants to join in this comparison trek to the rock to see for themselves first hand how the Silver/Red stacks up against the Yellow Totem cam (Totems published range of the Yellow 17-27.7mm), let me know and we'll organize something or a time and make a parade out of it. Scott's review can be read here: http://blog.oregonlive.com/climbing/2010/10/climbing_gear_review_totem_cam.html
  25. billcoe

    Follow the Money

    What law ever made it through congress without having 20 more paragraphs tacked on? In fact, litigation, for the sole purpose of interpreting and determining what a lot of these numerous and onerous laws say; is a thriving and massive industry in this country. Of course that benefits the big money people, no matter if they are big unions or big business. Yet despite this and the recent supreme court decisions as it relates to the first amendment: how many of us believe that campaign contributions should be able to be made in a dark back alley with no reporting or visibility to the end user...us, the citizens.
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