billcoe

I've haven't done it yet John, but maybe start by perusing here: http://www.primecell.com/pctools.htm Joseph used these guys for his Hilti battery rebuilds so maybe he'll speak for how they did for him. Sorry, it's in PA. The other option is the guys who are going to a crag that needs lots of holes, they'll build up, from scratch, a sealed external battery which is inside of an elongated piece of PVC with a wire going to the tool. The tool is thus lighter, and they can get a lot more holes out of it. This has been discussed on Supertopo a couple of times with full on instructions given.

Not that one Dane. The "hammer" drills are really only good for a hole or 2 and they are slow. For what we do you want a full on "Rotary" Hammer. The motion of how they drill is radically different. This one: http://www.cpotools.com/bosch-11536c-1-36v-cordless-litheon-compact-sds-plus-rotary-hammer/bshn11536c-1,default,pd.html?start=4&q=hammer%20drill If you pop that extra handle off the 11536C-1 it's under 6 lbs. Be aware that this weight savings is partially achieved via a lighter slimline battery that will get you less holes than the full sized batteries. The larger drill will drill faster but get less holes than the little one. Great for a construction guy, not necessary for a climber. The full sized one, 11536VSR 36V, I was getting 13-14 holes into conglomerate like that in the picture, 1/2" x 7" deep on a full sized battery. It would drill these holes in under 10 seconds, typically 7-8 seconds. The small critter would get 18-19 holes and it was taking more along the lines of 14-19 seconds. To give you an idea, my Panasonic hammer drill which is comparable to the Bosch hammer drill you linked, was taking 15-20 minutes to get a hole in hard andesite. http://www.cpotools.com/bosch-11536vsr-36v-cordless-litheon-1-in-sds-plus-rotary-hammer/bshn11536vsr,default,pd.html?start=6&q=hammer%20drill If you are thinking of Johns drill, that thing is more along the lines of the big one in terms of weight. (9.6 for the Bosch and @ 10 for the Hilti, but the Hilti's are much like driving a Mercedes....soooo sweet. People love the Hiltis because they are much quieter than a Bosch and will get a lot more holes out of a battery charge than any other drill. The only complains you'll see on Hiltis is how much they cost. They are slightly slower than the Bosch (but certainly still fast enough for any construction work or a climber) which is the fastest drilling cordless currently made. There are people who will rebuild batteries for these things, and that would be the way to go. Cool, I've been wondering how I'd look in black pumps fishnets...

Bob? Who the hell is Bob? "There once was a service man who toured the Middle East and married a beautiful little China doll. He brought her back to the States and they were very happy. He always enjoyed looking at her rear end and telling her what a beautiful butt she had. Every day it was, "Darling I love you and what a beautiful butt you have." Every night it was, "Darling I love you and what a beautiful butt you have." Well his birthday was getting close and she wanted to surprise him with a tattoo on her rear end that said, "Beautiful Butt." So she finds a reputable tattoo artist and explains what she wants. Well the artist asks her to turn around and after a brief pause says, "There is no way I can get "Beautiful Butt" on your tiny little beautiful butt." But I can put a nice "B" on each cheek which will stand for "Beautiful Butt." A bit disappointed, she agrees and leaves with her B's. Well the big day arrives and after a candle light dinner, gifts, and a sip of brandy, she appears in the bedroom in her birthday suit, turns around and bends over. Quickly sitting up he exclaims, "Darling I love you, but who the hell is BoB?""

Probably the same kind of woman who would seek out and marry a guy imprisoned for life cause he murdered someone.

You don't specify what you are looking for Dane, but if you can't find that used one here and the Gas one isn't to your liking, there is a site called Bosch CPO or just CPO I suppose that sometimes has Certified Pre-Owned for a great price. http://www.cpotools.com/ I got the tiny Dawg now, lil bro to the big one in the pic below, and it's been rocking the Casaba. The smaller Bosch 36 V is the best in the market for climbers I'm convinced. Unless you need lighter for going to the middle of nowwhere I suppose.

A feature interestingly shared by the base of El Cap, yet still people go there..... ....and they drop lots of pieces their little nuts and granola bars while eating... Which brings more mice..... Which brings more snakes... Speaking of things mice might eat..anyone see the story of new species JUST found in Yos last month? Story says it's the size or your thumbnail. http://www.care2.com/greenliving/new-species-found-in-yosemite-valley.html There are still lost of mystery's and unknown in the world.

In need of some anchor replacements.

Walking away isn't bad advice SC. To me, it doesn't seem all that long ago that Blake was showing up here on CC asking stupid clueless questions and getting (some) rough answers. Now he's got the cover story on Rock and Ice...well, don't know if it's the cover for sure - but one of the kick assed ones in there any way. Probably easily outclimbing 90 percent of the rest of us. Times been flying. I was in Red Rocks last week (reading Blakes story about Red Rocks!) and one of my partners, the kid young enough to be my son (my wife keeps laughing about this, otherwise I'd never think of the age thing) has grey hairs now and is doing the heavy lifting. No complaints though, it's all been good. Keep on keeping on SC.

I'm not going to bitch on Summit. He's just all jazzed up and into it I suspect. Thats all. I was thinking complaining about youth was just being a mark of a crotchety old man Dane. Probably if you could tolerate Summitchaser he'd be a good guy to mentor. As you get older and weaker he gets stronger and pretty soon he's leading all the hard stuff:-) But I suppose that it's not the youth that folks are complaining about. Powderhound up there might even be younger than summit up there. I bet the hound must have had a couple of winters of 50-100 plus water ice climbing days that he needs to show more photos on. Probably climbed more days in one of his winters in Montana than most of us have done in our life. No bitching from me. Regards to all!

I'm voting this thread most disappointing of the year....

Smart? HAH! I am nowhere near that smart! Brian, I really have no idea who Jim discussed this with or didn't mention it too (although I'm reading of some right now:-) . He's on the phone all day and I'm at work, and I'm totally clueless who he talks too - when, why or what about. Sometimes I might hear something later, sometimes I don't hear jack or shit, and generally I don't cause it's not my place to dog a buddy around and listen in on his calls. I suspect that he talked it over with a lot more folks than I ever communicate with at anytime. I didn't not "consult" a single person about any name change about this spot - ever, zero, zilch, never, nada - that I know about but I do drink heavily on occasion so it's not definitive of course. It wasn't my trip at all, I was along for the ride and got to hang my head out the car window as we cruised the strip much like Ginger up there in Ivans cartoon. Kind of like the Cathedral/Coethedral thing. People just run off and start doing what they do. I came a bit late to that party too and I still catch myself calling it CAthedral like Ben and I named it, cause it's locked in my brain even though I do like the 2nd version as it's more distinctive and separates it from half a zillion other climbing locations already named CAthedral. So you'll be calling this spot Drop Zone for ever, and it will forever mark you as one who came first, a pioneer. That's the way it is and there ain't nothing wrong with it at all. The only cliff I've ever been guilty of renaming I can't get everyone on board with my new name and I won't even say what that name (old or new) is on here. But it's not been mentioned yet. Be aware that I had zero to do with any name change at The Farside except to nod my head a few times (first side to side and later up and down) when I was asked. Even now, I really don't care except as far as supporting Jim, but like you say - it's just climbing. I was overly cautious in restricting my bolting and drilling as you know, but I accepted it because I was asked nicely. The name and the vision was Jim's. Again, having this discussion online is not productive if you guys all really think the name should be trash pit, garbage zone, Ivan's Bone Zone (my fav), Drop Zone, Far Side or whatever: I ain't the guy and this ain't the venue to get anything done but yowling to the moon. That You, Kevin and JH are all yowling in harmony is probably a first and certainly worth watching in fun and interest. Yet I suspect that there is much more who would yowl the other way as well but are too smart to be posting here about it. As a interesting note: was there last Saturday, and near the base of the wide crack you and Tyler started and Tyler and Arent finished, there is a brand new hella massive boulder smack dab in the middle of the trail. regards to all my brothers:

Well, that pic disappeared...hmmmmmmmmm, while we wait, perhaps the Dawg should reflect on this: Which was full of the larger ones at one point: Which was the evolution of this 1954's Warren Harding hanger that had a 1/4 x 1-1/4" split shank construction bolt on it. In most folks world view, in many ways, things have gotten better.

Thank you! Now I'm stylin!

You need to be reading timetravelers posts then.....he's having his own lil crisis up there - jus sayin' is all. As Kevin has already discussed this with Jim, I suppose from Kevin's perspective, this must feel much like when, as a young pre-teen, your parents say "no".....so you start running around trying to pitch your case to everyone else. "God, grant me the serenity To accept the things I cannot change; Courage to change the things I can; And wisdom to know the difference. " .............

I've noticed that a lot of the work that gets done...even at those major population areas and major climbing spots, is done via donations of time by volunteers. If anyone is thinking that they don't have the scratch to pony up, an alternative, and often more valuable contribution, is your time. Call them up and go to work. Thanks for anyone and everyone who has done this.

I'll take them! I've been too cold lately. Check your PM's.

So you know Bone, Jim went around and kindly asked every single person who was climbing out there what they thought of the name Farside. Jim. Not anyone else. That a few folks weren't out there at the time and missed this is not unusual, yet it doesn't change the fact that the 10-20 or so folks he did ask were all encouraging and good with it, even if Jim had to convince a few of us with some extra words and debate. As far as your false contention of him being a "second wave developer", that is a double slam. He didn't come second to anyone and he's not a "developer", that some bullshit title that doesn't apply. He's a "climber". That he might have rolled some loose rocks off a route before climbing it still only makes him a "climber". These routes were there a long time before Jim was even born. He climbed it first, sure, but developers build housing tracts and that was not done in this case. As far as I know, Jim has never built a house or a housing tract. Hopefully that clears that stupid bullshit up for you. Since YOU seem so dead set on driving this rickety old bus down this dirt road towards the cliff, perhaps you can lay out how many routes you have put up out there? What is your personal "investment". How many trail days do you have? How many cleaning days do you have? How many routes you have put up, or are planing on putting up? How much time and effort have you personally put in there? Give us the numbers on why you seem to appear so self-entitled and self-important to be able to turn the world upside down and effect this change to make yourself happy - etc etc. Why you feel you get to make this name change decision for the rest of us? I was out there yesterday with Chad in the rain and didn't see you anywhere. If you are speaking for others, I'd suggest that you let them speak for themselves, and as Pink says, keep it off the internet. For myself, I don't really care what it's called. Seriously. But Jim does and in my world view, it's his to decide and choose. I'm honored that he asked my opinion first, but touch base with Jim and everyone else involved - figure it out, then get back and tell us all what you have all decided. I can give you Jims phone number as you appear to need it. Like Andrew says, you are not doing anything by braying about it on the internet. If you truly want to effect change, make the call. Here is a gift for you, I'd suggest you chant this to yourself in your spare time, perhaps a new mantra might be personally helpful for you: "God, grant me the serenity To accept the things I cannot change; Courage to change the things I can; And wisdom to know the difference. " I'm not joking and do not mean to offer that as any kind of a put down. It's a good verse, keep it tucked away in your mind and hopefully it can be of help for you in your day to day life. Let me know if I can help you out any further.

I can split those separately: Cost: near bankruptcy for the country and a huge debt. Justification: made up lies to get in: even more loss of trust in our elected leaders. Outrageous costs and minimal justification. Mostly we alienated the entire international community by our complete disregard for the protocols they believed we should have followed. In doing so, we have made the world a more unsafe place going forward. We got lucky, so far, but it ain't over till it's over and it ain't over yet. We have not completed our objectives. It's not over.

Can't you focus you pictures better JH? I thought you were a war photog or sumpin? Jim as lad in training: Jim now a couple hundred feet up on the Gingerbread Shortcut: I think the quote may have been, "Any chance you assholes can get that rope over to me"? Current gift idea may involve replacement of that old blue daisy chain thing there.

http://www.washingtontimes.com/news/2010/nov/12/pg-county-executive-wife-arrested-fbi-sting/?page=1

Fixed it. Jim (with Mike) Jim Jim Wake me up and let me know if anything changes guys.

Caves...oooohhh. I'll try it after my testicles drop and I become a man:-) Thanks for the invite.

Jim Jim Jim Looks complete. I wasn't going to post, but there you are. I can't add to that post except that maybe you should go ask Jim what he thinks? Hey Chad? You staying dry tomorrow or want to go hang?

Ground breaking Johnny Dawes pro on hard British Gritstone. Mick Ryan put this link on St. Where clean climbing was invented and still 3 times cleaner than the dawg up there could imagine. With a few inventive exceptions. Proving only perhaps that one mans trash is another country's excellent route protection.