billcoe

I remember a flaring OW in JT that I was able to get a particulary satisfying head (nose/back of the head) jam in the back of so that my legs could move up and I could take a full body rest. My follower gets up and after surrepticiosly staring at me for a few min. finally coughs up: "Uhh, dude, ya got blood all over your face." or something like that. Indeed I did. Of course it was the first time I became aware of it. Got to love those sharp little JT crystals.

It's utterly remarkable how Dru repeatedly does that thread revival thing.

I've hacked ice with tools, but never rock. It seems to me that the potential to permanently trash the rock is very high. I see people top-rope climbing with dry-tools on the very routes I enjoy rock climbing, and it seems to be gathering critical mass and grow in size. I'm wondering what people's opinions are on this? Harmful or not? Should be done, or not? What do you think? Bill

Antiquated? Damn, when did I get old?

What he said. Also: as you are driving to go climbing, massage in both your finger and elbow joints can and will help dramatically and serve as a pre-warmup to help minimize re-injury.

It's a personal thing. He was looking for a short to long multipitch crack and face shoe. I actually like the shoe for gym climbing, and I could see if you were doing the steep short stuff at Smith you might really prefer them. For me, they are painful to stick in a crack sideways and then crank it straight like you need to do on a 2-3 inch crack, especially if you then need to use that foot jam to stand on while you place pro. It seem like a lot of the stuff I'm climbing these days is more moderate, where the crack is @ that fist size and the RC don't have the support to not be painful. But that's me, your results have obviously varied: There is no right or wrong, only a starting point and a bunch of wildly divergent views. Feel free to lay out to scrambled legs your thoughts on the RC. Especially for shoes, we can only talk about our own experiences, everybodys feet are so different that your climbing partner may love the shoe you hate....and maybe for the same reasons! I use to climb barefoot when I was young. I remember peeling barefoot off the higher boulder problems nearby 5-6 times and just going for it again and again until I sent: and this was before crash pads. Walking on gravel was not painful either cause my feet were so tough, but now, well now...it's the opposite for me, tenderfoot is the precise word. My point is that I might have just loved them when I was young, obviously if I could crank my foot in barefoot, the RC would have been a big time upgrade! So not only are different people radically different in opinions, but the very same people will, can and often do change their own opinions over time as well. The best scrambled legs can hope for on this thread is a starting point to start trying on shoes which he/she would like. So let him in on which RC's you like, they make several models, it could be the very ones which floats his/her boat..

Thats the kind of rock shoe I prefer best. Long trad routes, comfortable, you might have to even hike down the backside and want to wear them cause it's so steep kind of thing. like Red Rocks or even Beacon Rock, and you sure as hell don't want to lug up a supurfulous pair of tennis shoes, cause if you're like me, I'm old and fat and have serious limits on carrying crap up a climb anymore. Better to haul a jacket and water, not a pair of shoes just to walk down. The best shoe for you may be the one which you feel fits the best: however, with that caveat, LaSportiva makes what most people consider the most comfortable shoes. Right now the LS Focus are being closed out at various places and you may be able to find a pair for @ $60. The Mythos recommended by several folks are great too and have long been a topnotch shoe. Lasportivas resole nicely to at @ $40 and have a good reputation for quality. I have 2 pairs of Focus's for use for long multipitch and love them. It is real rare for a LaSportiva owner to be heard dissing that product. The stuff is great. http://www.sportiva.com/products/climbing/index.html don't see any anymore for $60 (Sierra trading post had some womens 5 for $39 the other day though) but heres some for $62.48 http://www.mgear.com/pages/product/categ...s+and+Harnesses 5.10 shoes quality ranges from barely acceptable to just real real bad. The stickyness of the rubber was generally considered by most climbers to be the best, Charles Cole has been a leader in rubber formulation, and C4 rubber is awesome, it would be rare to hear otherwise. Now most people say mad rocks are on a par with them for stickyness, but tend to cost less. So all day shoes from those cats may be the 5.10 climbalot, spire or Kaukulator or the MR Phoenix. I don't know how the MR's resole, but I won't buy another 5.10 until I stop hearing the horror stories about how their shit fell apart, which I have also personally experienced. (Not all shoes from 5.10 have that problem, some seem to be fine, so go figure) If you decide to get the 5.10's, plan on buying some Barge cement to help keep them together and you'll still toss them in the trash 5 years before you can wear out a pair of Boreals or LaSportivas. The 5.10 Newtons mentioned above are, IMO, overpriced and uncomfortable. But thats my feet and my wallet speaking, couple that which the 5.10 shit quality and you have a troika of reasons to not only walk away, but acutally run the other direction when you even hear the word "Newton". I looked at them when they first came out and passed. http://www.fiveten.com/product/laceup_shoes.htm Boreal - makes great stuff, argueably perhaps the best quality out there, except folks say it may be the slipperyest soles on the market today. You can, however, get them resoled and resoled and on and on. My most favorite pair of all day shoes is a pair of Boreal Fire classics which may have been resoled @ 10 times in the 15 years I've owned them- who can say, but it's been a real high milage shoe for me. They were comfortable when I bought them and they still are. The leather is almost worn to nothingness, and has patches and holes throughout cause I've just worn the crap out of them. Love those shoes, hell, I can even hike in them if I want too. Although sadly, the Fires are no longer made, I know some folks who love the Aces for similar reasons. I am unfamiliar with the Spiders mentioned. Heres some generic shoe reviews: http://www.climbing.com/equipment/rsboreal/ FYI, I'd stay away from Scarpas, Red Chilis and 5.10s (despite the fact that I own shoes from them all) as I think you'd find better success from Lasportiva, Mad Rock or Boreal ........buy hey, that's strictly IMO: I have the Red Chiili Spirit model: which was the closest of the shoes they make to what you are looking for. They will not lock in a fist crack like a traditional board lasted shoe like the the Kaukulator, Focus or Fire will. I would see where if you wanted to climb strictly limestone pockets or some such horseshit, one of their shoes may be for you. They are comfortable for that kind of shoe, and the soles are a variable thickness so they have great sensitivity. That great sensitivity also makes them weak in cracks. I tried on several of their models and climbed on the store wall before I bought the Spirits, I only bought them cause I was in Paris, they were on sale, and it was before the drop in the dollar so they were relatively cheap at like @ $ 70 dollars after the VAT refund. That and I'm a gear freak too. Anyway: seriously: your results may and will vary. Good luck, I'd better stop now before you think I have more time on my hands than Dru.

Well, just when you thought you saw everything, heres a fella selling his "left nut" so he can get a tractor. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=1469&item=5551143555&rd=1 Except it is really a nut, not a testical, and the bid is over $150.00 Gotta love the Q and A: "Questions from other buyers for this listing Q: What kind of tractor are you looking for? Answered on Jan-20-05 A: A small utility type 20 hp would be fine. Q: get to go fishing with the man with one nut how will i go fishing with you and one nut when both your nuts are out? Wouldnt you have no nuts? Answered on Jan-20-05 A: No, because I'd still have this one. Q: What if I decided to bid on the nut, but later retracted because I think you're a filthy whore? Answered on Jan-20-05 A: Do whatever floats your boat. Q: Is it clear to say that this item was never a part of your body? Because if it was it's against ebays polocies. Answered on Jan-20-05 A: Pretty much so. Q: If I buy your nut would you be willing to come over and bust it all on my face and make sure I lick up every last little bit of it even if I try to stop in the event your nut may be too salty? Answered on Jan-20-05 A: I wish people would quit coming on to me. Q: Would you be willing to sell the right one instead? Answered on Jan-20-05 A: Please see earlier descriptions. Q: Hi, is your nut greasy? If so is it from lack of washing it or have you applied any sort of greasy slippery substance on it?? Answered on Jan-20-05 A: No, no, And again, No. Q: Since you're from Texas can I pay you to take the nut to George Bush's ranch when he comes there for vacation next? The pretzel didn't seem to be any match for him, maybe the nut is what he needs to do him in.... Answered on Jan-20-05 A: You might want to do that job yourself. Q: is this a joke?!?!or are you just plain crazy??? Answered on Jan-20-05 A: no joke, crazy? See earlier questions. Q: My left one is also higher than my right one. This makes me feel better about myself. Answered on Jan-20-05 A: alrightythen Q: If nobody retract their bid, your left nut will be undescended. Talk about Pandora's Box. Answered on Jan-20-05 A: Crazy huh. Q: OK... why are your nuts outside of your body? And why do you have them? Shouldn't the hospital have kept them? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: I don't really know. I think the question would be why were they in the dang can in the first place? Q: Does your nut have a depiction of Jesus or Mary on it? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: Not the last time I looked... Q: Is Lance Armstrong planning on bidding? I think he lives in Texas, just like you. If he is going to be bidding, and the word gets out, look out, because people might bang up his bidding. (I have heard that people from Texas prefer their nuts shilled.) Can you please post up a better photo of your left nut? I would like to have a real good look at your left nut -- a photo that is so crisp on my monitor it looked like I could reach out and hold it in my hand. I have no interest in eating your left nut, but I do have to ask you: have you ever tasted your left nut? If you took the money from the sale of your nut and instead of buying the tractor, you went to Vegas and put it all on black 17 and won on the first spin, do you think the casino would be willing to cashew out right away? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: Nuts are always better shilled in Texas,that's the best my camera will do,I have never tasted my nut,And I don't know if they would cashew out right away but I'm sure they would do me the honor since it would be my money on black 17. Thanks Q: I guess this shows that I have more nuts than most of the other guys, huh? lunkercity.com Answered on Jan-19-05 A: Too true..Too true. And what's one more? Thanks Q: You say you're a Texan, but this nut is clearly from Georgia. Is this nut a stunt nut? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: No, It's definetely a native texan "p" nut. I'm sure there was a moment in time where we all had a chance to do something better in our lives, and being a stunt nut for him(left nut) would have been a ticket to fame and fortune. Alas, though, he's led (up until now) an ordinary life with no real major suprises or achievements. Well, now since you brought it up, the nut's probably depressed. But that's okay. With a new owner, he'll(left nut) have a chance to move on to bigger and possibly better things. Thanks Q: Being a Texan nut, would it survive a trip to Maine? And, if so, how do you think it would adapt (rest assured, this household voted for George W.) Answered on Jan-19-05 A: It would make the trip safe and sound. As far as adaptation, it will be okay. It will adapt from south to north like a toilet to a septic tank. Q: ARFCOM.... I was wondering if these nuts are gay? Could you tell me the usage of the nuts and where they have been? Any breakdowns, damage, disease?? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: No usage in the last few months, no breakdowns,damage or disease. Thanks Q: Let me guess, it's not your actual testicle, just an actual nut. If it actually is a testicle, go ahead and tell is that it is your actual testicle in no uncertain words. Otherwise... farked and scammer. Answered on Jan-19-05 A: I think the description tells it all Q: Which nut are we talking about here? Isn't the left nut in the picture actually your right nut? We really don't need any ambibuity here - those are two very different nuts. Answered on Jan-19-05 A: The nut on the left in the pic is the one you're bidding on. Q: Hey I just wanted to know whats so special about the right nut that your planning on keeping? Thats gotta be the one thats really worth something,ey? I might add that if you think your hurting NOW..Wait till somebody takes your nut..either one! Are you selling any family jewels? Yourbayman Answered on Jan-19-05 A: I wasn't planning on it. Thanks Q: My parents are both nuts. Could your left nut be my brother? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: Possibly, but I doubt it. Thanks Q: I am reminded of the cartoon where the Planter's guy is wearing a raincoat. He flashes this girl, who then says to him, "What are you, some kind of sex nut?" And also, the old song about "Hitler, he only had one ball, . . ." etc. Perhaps you should go on late night TV with your nut. Any features planned in The Enquirer? If you got rid of both nuts, you could probably get elected to Congress. Answered on Jan-19-05 A: Not a bad idea...Thanks Q: Why not just buy a $50 post hole digger for the holes and burn that brush that you want to shred? You will build some muscle with the post hole digger! Answered on Jan-19-05 A: Well, for one thing I have one hundred acres of this stuff. I don't have enough time to dig that many holes. And for another, it's too dang dry where I'm at to be burning anything even in a hole. They have burn bans here to keep burning brush,trash,etc. from getting out of hand. Thanks Q: the nuts look like beans, hahaha. this auction is a joke, right?!? who is going to actually buy a used old beat up nut. if i were you, would sell things in the house such as electronics, useless tools, etc. Answered on Jan-19-05 A: No, this auction is not a joke. It is very real. You never know who might buy it. People are buying air,water,old food,etc. This is actually something kinda useful. Plus, I use my electronics,and no tools are useless unless you don't know how to use them or have something to use them on. Thanks Q: You mentioned earlier that both the left and right nuts have been off for awhile. How did you get them off? Is there video on the interwebs? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: Read the answer to the last question. Thanks Q: Does it come with a certificate of Authenticity? How long has it been "out of the can"? And does it come with a video of the removal procedure? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: I can make you a certificate of authenticity if you prefer one, and it's been out of the can so long, I've lost track of when it was actually removed. As for a video of the procedure...It was too traumatizing and I opted not to have it taped. Sorry Q: It's no wonder you took out the right nut too.. that's a pointy one. I personally would like to know if these nuts are salted, or not. I prefer salted nuts, but I'm always game for a plain nut. Answered on Jan-19-05 A: Yea, tell me about it. They were salty, but most of the salt has rubbed off. Q: Could I just trade you for one of my Alaskan nuts? They are easily twice as big as a Texan nut and thats with shrinkage included. Answered on Jan-19-05 A: as stated earlier Q: Could I just trade you for one of my Alaskan nuts? They are easily twice as big as a Texan nut and thats with shrinkage included. Answered on Jan-19-05 A: I don't know, ain't most of that insulation? Q: I hate you and find you grossly annoying. If I win the auction, instead of getting the car, nut, etc. can I just slap you in the face instead? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: How bout NOOO Q: Are you selling this nut with the approval of the Bean Wizard? Remember, bean and germs must never mate. Answered on Jan-19-05 A: Crap, I'd better check this out...I'll get back to you. Q: Why don't you just sell the car? You say you have a nice car. Where I come from a nice car will buy few tractors. Answered on Jan-19-05 A: No, I said I have a nice vehicle. I have to get to work to buy diesel if I get a tractor. The car I'm gonna give the winning bidder if they want it is not a nice one. In fact it's been a very, very bad car. Q: Are these 100% "natural", or have they seen any steroid products? Also, could the left be exchanged for the right if found to be inadequate? Thanks! Answered on Jan-19-05 A: Oh they're natural alright, oh yea, they're natural...I really don't want to get into any nut swapping at this point in my life. Thanks, Michael Q: You do realize that peanuts are really beans, not nuts, right? Although peanut farmers do use tractors. And one won a Nobel prize. Answered on Jan-19-05 A: Is that why jelly beans look like peanuts? Tractors...that's the key Q: Being a 'hands on' kinda guy I tend to play with my nuts a lot. Does your left nut play well with others? Would it take well to a threesome or would it likely stand at arms length, refusing to mingle with the other nuts? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: Believe me , it can handle a threesome just fine. But why don't you just ask it if you bid on it and win. He'll be able to tell you his life's story then. Q: Why does the blurry picture resemble two peanuts? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: I don't know, I haven't even give it a second thought. Q: Why are they sitting there like that? HAve they already been taken off? If so, why are both of them there? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: They've been off for a while, Im showing both so that you can get a comparison of the two. Q: What if I just came to your house, hit you over the head with a pipe, and stole the nut rather than bid on it? Would I still get the car? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: Probably, but you wouldn't get the title to it. Q: They say sometimes you feel like a nut and sometimes you don't. I guess in your case you don't. Hey if you get lots of bids let me know cause I know were there are two more Answered on Jan-19-05 A: If I get lots of bids on this nut, I know where there's a whole town full of them real close by. Q: Hi! Does this nut come from a smoke free and pet free home? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: Smoke free, but not pet free. But I can promise you that my dogs have not been near my nut. Q: Is it true that everything is bigger in Texas? Is this nut abnormally large? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: Well, true, things in Texas are bigger, but not abnormally larger. Q: Are you aware that Drew Curtis is a God, and that you should not do anything to anger him lest ye receive his terrible wrath? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: I suppose so...sir Q: Is it possible that between FARK and eBay your nut has crossed threads? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: anythings possible. But unlikely Q: My good sir, this is the greatest pair of nuts I have ever laid my eyes upon. Are you certain you are willing to sacrifice one of these two magnificent specimens to some stranger all for the sake of a new tractor? Surely there must be some other option available to you. Answered on Jan-19-05 A: Definetely. It will make the right one proud and have the force of two everytime I see or drive my new tractor. Q: So lets say I put this nut on my chest... Would that be a chestnut? Lets say I put the nut on my wall... Would it then be a walnut? Finally, lets say I put this nut on my wifes chin? What would it be then? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: I'm not sure, but since I'm such a gentleman, you might have to ask her. Q: have much for your nut sack too? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: Let's not cross the line here folks, leave me somthing to work with... Q: Have you ever seen a Squirrel with Large Nuts? Your answer may affect the outcome of your autction. Answered on Jan-19-05 A: Hell, who hasn't? Q: You're NUTS!!haha Answered on Jan-19-05 A: You know, I've been told that over and over, and I still don't believe it. Q: Has anyone licked this nut yet? Or is it still fresh? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: Licked, no....Worn from years of....yes. Q: OK smarty pants, for the record, peanuts are neither peas, nor nuts. They are members (huh, huh... I said "member" that was cool) of the legume family. Therefore it is, in fact, a BEAN. So, in actuality, up for bid is actually your left bean. By the way Doughnuts are not nuts either. So don't try pulling that one either! Answered on Jan-19-05 A: Bean.....hm that explains alot. Also, don't doughnuts have holes...And if I try pulling anything, I might lose the other nut. Q: Are you aware that peanuts are legumes, not nuts? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: as stated earlier. Q: Are you aware that peanuts are legumes, not nuts? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: Who's talking about peanuts. This is a "p" nut. Q: Ok, I have to ask... is it a salty nut? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: You know, that's a good,fair question. Yes, at one time it was. Q: Hi, just a few questions about your um, left nut. If I'm the high bidder, is it ok if I suck on your left nut? Are there any visitation rights to the right nut (being that they may get lonely)? Thanks.. Answered on Jan-19-05 A: You can do whatever you want after it gets to your home, and I probably don't wanna know what you do with it, and no, The right one will not be visited be the left after it has touched a stranger's hands. Sorry. Q: How does your wife feel about you selling your nut for a tractor and if you get enough from this sale will you concider selling your other nut? How about a discounted price for the pair of nuts? Wayne S Answered on Jan-19-05 A: My wife thinks it's cool....Keeps me off her back. literally...I really would like to keep one though. So I have to actually ask for more if I sell both, and that's only if this one doesn't sell on ebay. Q: Does it maybe have an image resembling Jesus, Elvis, the virgin Mary, Sam Houston, David Bowie or Slim Pickens on it? Please let me know ASAP because it takes a purdy good while to convert my IRA funds! Answered on Jan-19-05 A: The only images I can see on it are despair and lost hope. But I think I'm the only one who can see those images. Q: If I won your nut, would you be offended if I dressed it up in a top hat and monicle and maybe...gave it a cane? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: Only if you make it sing "it's raining men" Q: Is the nut you are trying to sell actually your left testicle? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: I like to call it the "left nut" Q: What if I recieve it and find that it has already been busted? I love to bust a nut as much as the next guy so I would hate to find someone beat me to it. Answered on Jan-19-05 A: I can assure you that it has not been busted. And believe me, no one's been beating to this in a while. Q: How do we know for sure its the left nut were getting? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: The left one has a small crack in it and the right one doesn't. But don't worry, so far it still watertight. Q: Why don't you just sell fertilizer instead? You're so full of shit, it's obvious that you have more than you need. Answered on Jan-19-05 A: You know, that's not a bad idea. I'm sure pure grade a shit would do good on ebay looking back at what already has sold on here. Q: Hmmm I've very intrested in your auction. However, I would like to have the right nut. Anyway you could substitute it? You see, I lost my right nut in a tragic accident. I still have my left one, and have no need for another. If you could possibly sell the right instead of the left, I would like to make a purchase. Answered on Jan-19-05 A: That's a good question, if you had two lefts, they might cancel each other out and you would have no nuts. I might consider selling the right one after this auction. Q: I was thinkin of bidding but as I have been married....and Divorced 3 times I have no nuts left and was wondering if you would be willing to throw the right one in if the price was right? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: I'll tell you what, you bid on it and win, And i'll throw in a whole can of nuts..Been divorced myself, and was lucky to make it out with these. Q: Have you played with it much? Other than, say, your doctor have other men had their hands on it much? Answered on Jan-19-05 A: other than to take these pics of it .....no Q: Fire, huh. Tell me more about that fire. Was the house a total loss? The garage OK? Gotta have a garage to keep the tractor in. Answered on Jan-19-05 A: The house was not a total loss, but it probably would've been easier on us if it was. The interior and all of our contents were destroyed. It burned the first week of August 2004, and we just got back in on new year's eve. We still haven't even got all our money back yet to replace all our stuff. And, of course, we were notified by our ins. co. that as soon as the policy runs out, we are cancelled and will now have to get some new house ins. by july. We are paid up until then, and of course, they won't give us the balance and then cancel us. The two car garage is now a huge bedroom. We have a house full of foster children and we had t ogive up our master bedroom to the kids. BUT, I have a small shop where I do some mechanic work, small engine work, etc., and that's where the tractor will be kept. Q: Once bought, what can i do with it? What are it's special powers? Answered on Jan-17-05 A: I guess you can do whatever you want with it. Once you bid on it, it's yours to have and hold, or whatever you so desire. It's special powers are yet to be discovered. I'm quite sure it has some sort of special powers, but since I have two, I figured I'd keep on and sell the other so someone else can experience the joy and amazement of finding out what those powers are. I'm sure it will have special powers that are unique to each individual user. Q: would you want to sell the can or bag it came in.. i need a tobaccy humidor.. Answered on Jan-16-05 A: I might if you offered enough....around these parts we call a humidor a glovebox..... Q: are you sure thats a texican nut.. must be all them storys of big things in texas is a myth Answered on Jan-16-05 A: It must be either the camera, or this dang Texas sun. It tends to dry things up pretty guickly. Besides it's been "out of the can" for quite a while, which could explain the shrinkage. Q: wat kinda nut is it? Answered on Jan-15-05 A: It happens to be a "p" nut"

Bill, you need to get out more if you think Becks and Heinaken are 'good' Yeah, I have low standards generally, it probably comes from living in Europe for a while. However in Beer and in Climbing partners my standards are especially low! Despite that, I still won't stop to Budwiser and that ilk. BTW, I just read the "Who needs a Pirate Patch" thread: glad you're still in good enough shape to pull them yourself! . Imagine if you woke up in a wheel chair ala Christopher Reeve and all they served in the rest home was Bud, and since you couldn't move your arms, some old krone had to tip the buds back for you. That would even make me pissed, and I do have those low standards. It would be like life in Hell...........ARRRRRGGGGGHHHHHHH.......................point is, real glad you're still cranking hard. Gotta work, cya.

Bart: where would you that chest store? Arrggg!

They've been putting Guiness, Becks and a bunch of other good beers like Heinikans in cans for a long time. Whats the news here? Sounds like good stuff. Were they supposed to put it in bottles? help me out, I'm ignorant on this.

Speaking as someone who slurped down 2 pints of Haagen Daz last night, best not go there. Smith looks like it would be classic spring weather! Perfect for the south faces, which is plenty of stuff. Both Meadows and Timberline closed to skiing Tuesday, which usually doesn't happen until Spring. So spring is here, it's almost official now.........a little early no, Jan 19th? Only difference would be the shortness of the days.

Whores get a bad rap. You're lucky Muff, in the sense that nobody would ever pay me for sex. I would, and for not much $, alas............ Seriously, I ran the PSU outdoor program for 2 years. Except where one instance where the guy fell off of a cliff while backpacking near Larch Mt. with our stuff and died, it was generally good.

Coming up, better go get your pump on Dan: Feb. 1 - July 15. Joesph, Kellie Rice and I are starting in on looking at helping monitoring Peregrines. It's in prelim right now, but I'll post when it gets a little further. Hey Joseph lives there: right Blake?

Where at Smith is it?

I think the Don William 2 cd anthology, the Tammy Wynette (stand by your man) greatest hits, the Garth Brooks "essential collection" which is like 6 of his cds, and everything Emmylou Harris ever did would hold you in good stead. Toss in some Brooks and Dunn, Colin Rayes greatest, Merle Haggards, Patsy Cline and a few others stuff and you have a start of a solid classic collection. You'll be wearing shit kickers and driving a pickup truck with a dawg in it in no time. YEEEEE HAWWWWW! Let er buck.

Dude, You taking off 11 months off for a pinky? You could almost grow a new one in that time frame no?.

Crap: killer MILF'S with 10,000 rifles, what the hell is the world coming to? It's going to hell in a handbasket......that's what it is. How can you confront that kind of a threat? Sending over the desperate housewifes wouldn't be an adaquate defense. Hmmmmm: OK, I could be wrong - maybe it would be OK for Rumsfeld, he's into the fast and light thing if the Iraq thing is a guide.

Ditz: you have my sympathy: Once when I was young and strong like yourself: I ripped every damn one of the tendons on the fingers of my right hand, OK, it was 3 of 4 but it felt like all of them. It may have been the worst climbing accident I've felt, and I'm including an unhelmeted bouncing 60-80 footer that after I regained conciousness left me with a broken wrist and a tempory knot on my forehead the size of a fist. (course that happened over 31-32 years ago so you tend to forget the pain) Certainly more than the block I pulled off of a new route which slammed down simultaniously with me precious foot contacting a small ledge which broke my foot 2 years ago. The tendon thing was this: I was done climbing plastic for the day and some friends playing challenge on a 20' high problem challenged me to try. After the usual baiting and refusal cycle went by a few times, I bit and took my shot. Wasn't warm and I was very tired, 2 bad things. Last move from the top they blew. JH Christ it hurt. All you can do is sit around for the longest time: which for active folks like us can be doubly painful. Here's to the fact that the weather is currently shitty for outdoor climbing, and a good time for you to either A) take up skiing/snowboarding or B) Get better at said sport. So ya know, I'm being serious, if the weather was good, you'd be knashing your teeth to get out, or be out and in pain and/or re-injuring it. Not a cycle to get into. You have plenty of time for recuperation. I'm sure you can get plenty of advice on that whole trip so I won't beat that dead horse here. Just and then get back on the horse when you can. Good luck: I feel your pain.

Man, wish I oould take pics like that! Thanks for sharing, great story! Bill

Oh Oh: I share Tanya Hardings bithday. Is she still a celeb?

It was the coffee beans talkin" !

Can you believe he's leaving us for Florida til mid Jan...what an ass 'sup Bill LO Robert! Long time no see. Say hi to T fer me: Sounds like Coylec is gonna come back tanned and with a smile on his face. Hell, we don't even have heat in our house right now, it's too cold and wet for climbing and theres not enough snow to ski. Hows that for a whinefest? Fenderfour -you rapped from the mouth? Did ya have to leave some gear>? FYI, It's about 5 min. or less to lead (free) the next pitch and there's a great rap station there. Not critizising, just saying. Heck, I once had to rap from the neck cause it got dark in Feb. after a late start on the West Face Crack route. What a f*ed up mess that was Rapping over the SE route overhanging, barely touching the rock, clawing over to the notch in pitch dark, ropes getting stuck with us standing on the notch and having to come back the next day. My friends/ride had gotten tired of waiting in the parking lot and left with my wallet and sleeping bag. It was 20 degrees farenheit and in my youthful wisdom I had tossed my down jacket down as I didn't want to destroy it (cause it was so valuable to me), and I had neglected to bring a stuff sack and/or a headlamp. We drive into Terrebone, sleep in Bobs VW campervan, next day it woun't start, after we had pulled the distributor and carberator I started walking back to the Monkee, figuring I would free solo up to the notch, pull the ropes in the light and walk back to the VW in Terrebone. I'm picking up cans for money along the way. At one point I hear a Thwack, then silence, followed by another Thwack, which gets louder as I get closer, walking quietly, I come upon a Great Blue Heron trying to ice fish on a frozen pond. He'd steathly take a few steps, cock his head and freeze, then Thwack, right onto the ice, not penetrating. Shake his head, then repeat the process. Make it back to Smith, there's a group in a brand new mobile home and only 1 other car in the parking lot. Place is vacant. I want a partner to climb to the top and rap down to get the ropes. I invite them to climb the Monkee - but no, turns out all the folks in the mobile home with the great looking stuff were just models posing for a Early Winters Catalog and none of them could climb. Course they didn't clue me in until my polite request for a partner had denigrated into begging and groveling. I'm almost pissing myself thinking of free soloing to the notch in that freezing cold with all the shit that had already gone wrong. Just them Bob comes putting up, the VW had inexplicatbly started for no apparent reason.........this story goes on for a 'nother couple of pages, I should stop now. Point is, it's remarkable how dark it gets there with no moon. Better to just get down sometimes. You'll see it next time up.

I'm Nay but it's up to you: I'm 50, and started taking it last year for a knee. Within 2 months, I had pulled a calf muscle. Would the calf had tweaked if I hadn't used it? Who knows. In the absence of studies and long term use evaluations, there does seem to be some verbal static that for athletes, it can lead to a higher propensity of tweaks and pulls.

If you click on the pic of the only climber on the main page of the link Jim -t posted, that is actually Boardwalk, (title "rapping Beacon Rock") not SE Corner, a 5.6-5.7 trad single pitch around the corner to the right from SE Corner. (Note the single line, that has to be a 60meter, mandatory) If you look over that guys head you can see Josephs new route "Lost Warriors" to the left which goes up and over the blocks at the top of the pic. At the top of that pic, the 3rd pitch of se corner would be just to the left out of view by 20 feet or so. Another view of Ujahn on a variation of P2 Lost Warriors in October. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=8240&sort=1&cat=517&page=1 or Joseph at the top http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=8049&sort=1&cat=517&page=3 The pics on the summit post are not clearly marked- most of them are SE corner. I suspect if you nose around in CC.com, you'll find it somewhere in there. All of the advise and comments you have recieved so far is stellar. You might try to suck Joseph to go with you, he almost lives out there, I understand , is a great guy- and has deep and varied experiance. Perfect partner. As far as answering your question, this is a great route, and would be a fine first trad lead. It does wander a bit, and having someone with you who has been up it at least once before would be nice - but not mandatory. I saw a post on Rockclimbing.com recently where people are comparing the best routes they have ever done. Was surprised to see Larry (areyoumydude) who currently climbs out of Zion, and has extensive Yosemite and other places blah blah experiance, in response to the question of the best route you've ever done, simply said "SE corner of Beacon Rock". It's a good route, but not the very best every IMO. You'd enjoy it depending on weather of course. Regards: Bill