billcoe

Can you direct us to the purchase location for those beauties?

Hi JA: I've never heard of any such thing: ever. That's like one of those "I heard someone say someone else say that the Martians landed in the desert in 1978". Difficult to prove it might not have really happened, even though there is no chance in hell of it being true. The birds look to be real healthy at Beacon. I'd like to train to help monitor the sites. How would I sign up? Bill Reading the observations posted after I posted this seems kind of strange and it makes it real, not like Martians obviously. @13-14 years ago someone did this? Seems like the truth from the way it is written. I suspect, given that the birds look so successful out there (I think there were 2 littler ones flying around when Joeseph and I were there 2 weeks ago), that those people must not be climbing out there anymore, and they sure didn't (wouldn't dare) brag about such an action to others apparently. It also seems bizare that someone would leave a $50 (or so) piece of gear in the rock which apparently wasn't stuck in there.

Hmmmm, was that measure twice cut once? Hmmm, no, must be measure once cut twice..........slice...ouch....Mother F ! WTF?

I'm sure we would agree there Dru, especially so on Karate crack, which is what? 60-65 feet long or something like that?

NO, as I understand it - the late Earl Wiggans, showed up to do the 2nd ascent of Ed Websters variation as a FREE SOLO! Which would have been friggan amazing for the day and age. The Black Canyon still inspires terror. Except Earl gets off route and FREE SOLO, does what is today a 10D variation. Earl didn't have to pass anyone as I understand it. (trying to make it relavant to the thread). And now, back to our regularly scheduled arguement.

For Sale: 500,000 French rifles of WW2 vintage. "Never fired, only dropped once." If that interests you, we have 2 million German - French dictionarys which are a bit dated as well.

Joesph, this could be a new potential partner, I only climbed some TR stuff with Michael but he pulls strong. Kind of young, but looks to have the experiance. Michael, as you're new tot he area, Wayne may be the #1 voice of experience about that POS. If he raises an eyebrow it speaks volumes IMO. I'd highly recommend climbing with Joesph out at Beacon, a better partner can't be found, you guys, from outward apperances would make a great team. (You're looking for a safe-choss like adventure and Joesph has about 3 or 4 of them up his sleeve!) Your schedules may in fact be compatible. So hook up, but remember to drag me along if I'm free.

Thanks Ivan: Should have said something sooner, Joeseph and I were there on the rock Wednesday (9-29-04) and could have "assisted". If you said it's was an Alien offset I might have to take another day off work cause I was amazed where Joesph was plugging that stuff and getting bomber placements. Think I'd better buy some of em. amazing.

Ethics aren't taught in the gym. This is where many of the new climbers are coming from. It's a rear-guard fight. Good luck.

yup

But not many ya drive right by on the way to Smiff.

Cluck: I propose a "load" rating. So a 1/4 load is when you just shit your pants a bit but held it together on the pitch, a 1/2 load is pretty serious: talking some brown stuff out the sides of the underpants, while contrasted to a "full load" wherein you may die if a rogue boulder decides to part company with the parent cliff while you take the big unprotectect ride down. A "full load" would be characterised by at least a shoe full of crap and everything inbetween, and a complaining partner as well. BTW, you partner must, by definition be BELOW, not above safetly tied in above belaying you, for it to be a full load! regards: Bill ps, I think I may be spying a 1/4 load right there on the rappel pic, wherein a single sling is wrapped aound what appears to be a group of loose rocks. Should said rocks show movement when weighted.....well.....we could safetly upgrade the "movement rating" as well right there on the spot. Thanks Chriznitch !!

Rumr: you're stealing my personal mantra!

Jon: in case anyone forgot to say it out loud: just remember they are all thinking the same thing. I speak for everyone here, even those of us who just take it all for granted without thinking: Thank you.

Yes Mike; Obviously you do not want to debate as well. may I direct you to this post which you ignored. Pearls before swine back at you.

I don't mind stepping up and being man enough to admit you are wrong. (About the guides, not necessarily about the money thing) But it really doesn't matter much to me either. I will say you sound like a guy I knew once who was always dissing on prostitutes. Because he was afraid to try their services. When he finally tried it: well, he admitted what he had been expousing was strictly because of ignorance. He admitted he was wrong in his earlier viewpoints. Expect the same may be the case here. But it's ok for you to think that way IMO, even if you are wrong. At least, that is, if I am understanding your points correctly. regards; Bill

Seems to me the time would be better served forcing the FS workers who have nothing productive to do to go get real, productive jobs. Don't need em, Don't want them.

That was a beautiful rant, Bunglehead. If we meet, the first round is on me. Then round 2 would be on me. Total agreement. Worst part, the 2 choices for president are equally piss poor canidates. I expect this to be the first presidential election I haven't voted since I could first vote. I'm boycotting. And don't give me the patriotic crap, I served.... so leave me the F alone.

Dude, I was kidding, put the ice axe down.........

I wonder if that might have just been Hanger skinny dippping in the Columbia River which is of course right there. He's got the hair on the back thing goin no? Common mistake. Very understandable.

I thought when I first read it they might be talking about that particular ROUTE (not Mt Hood per see) being done 20 years previously, but they did mention Sylvains route as being being unclimbed before the Sylvaine descent in the artical. "Now Saudan was considering a descent by a challenging couloir on the Northeast side where nobody had yet set foot".

Sunny is not a guy. She is a capable, active and smart woman. If you ever get to climb with her, you'll find that out. -B Thats funny, (even if the offending spray is missing)! Good luck with the partner search Sunny, there are some people as competent to climb as they are competent to spray on this site, hope you hook up with one.

Are you recommending that the bolts get removed and then replaced on lead by hand drill Lamebone? Would it not be better to say "YES, SORRY, IT WAS ORIGANLLY REPORTED INCORRECTLY - THESE SNEAKY BOLTS WERE IN FACT PLACED BY HAND"?

You know, a quick search on the net shows that he acompanied Saudan in 1971. So, I probably already know a hell of a lot less than than I think I do, and signifigantly less than the internet always does. Some days I'm just happy my head stays on from all the spinning it seems to do to accompany my open mouth gaping. Anselme did come in 1982-83 or so, That I am sure of. I thought they climbed the south side and skiied that (probably the very same) route. I see that although he was here in 71, he didn't ski with Sylvaine, perhaps he left his skis at home then? It was not something he mentioned at all to me in 82, ie, that he had been the gear boy for Sylvaine on a previous trip, and I only learned it right now surfing the net. It does explain why he was so low key about it. Real good guy BTW. So the bottom line is I really don't know shit, which is what my wife has been trying to convey to me for some time now. Fuenos will back her up on that if you need corroboration -you can ask him yourself - seems I forgot his friend we had just climbed with together a short while ago. Anyway: Here's the link and story: In the early 1970s the south west face of the Eiger, the south face of the Grandes Jorasses and the couloir of the Tournette on the south west side of Mont-Blanc all fell to Saudan. Then in the winter of 1971 he was invited to The Meadows ski area in North America. The technical director thought he might be interested in a certain Mt Hood. This 3419 meter volcano, flanked by 8 glaciers and situated just 175km from the Pacific coast and its weather systems, had only been climbed 20 years before. Now Saudan was considering a descent by a challenging couloir on the Northeast side where nobody had yet set foot. On the 3rd of March, after two weeks of delay the weather cleared and a helicopter was called. Meadows had already received over 17 meters of snow and a climb was impossible. The small, two seater Bell, finally arrived at three in the afternoon. The pilot had been busy with a film production on the coast. Sylvain climbed aboard. “We’ll try to go up, but there’s not much chance, too much wind”, the pilot screamed over the noise of the rotors. The flight gave Saudan his first good look at the couloir. Four times the pilot tried to land on the small, snow capped dome, finally succeeding on the fifth. The pilot returned to fetch Saudan’s partner, the Avoriaz guide Anselme Baud and his gear. The summit temperature was –35C, it was already late in the afternoon and the sky was growing dark. A cup of hot tea then Sylvain said goodbye to Anselme and entered the 50-degree – 55 in places, slope. “For the first time in my life I felt my legs freezing… for the first turns I couldn’t feel my skis… I was worried about windslab avalanches, meters of snow had been blown by the previous days blizzard”. The first couloir was 300 meters long but the descent was blocked by cliffs, Sylvain had to traverse to a second couloir. But he entered too high. On the diamond hard ice there was no chance to turn or even make a conversion, he would have to back up. Digging the edges of his over 2 meter long skis as hard as he could, his pole tips barely gripping, the operation took the best part of 30 minutes. To reach the second couloir Sylvain once again had to cross this icy trap then below him the slope opened up, 1500 meters of vertiginous descent to Clark Canyon. The start of the couloir was too narrow to turn, rock walls loomed on either side. Could he stop himself if he got up speed at the start? “If the snow was hard I’d be in trouble…this was the key to the whole descent” He threw a rock, the snow was soft, a couple of turns and the couloir began to open. In the solitude cold was forgotten and he began to relax. He made short turns, trying to avoid triggering an avalanche. A further surprise, there were numerous crevasses and a Bergschrund then Saudan was on the gentle slopes of the glacier. At the base a hundred people were waiting, journalists, ski instructors, photographers and fans. A big round of applause, interviews, photos. The Skier’s Gazatte wrote a huge piece about the “Superman on Mount Hood” In 1982 Saudan descended from the top of the 8068 meter Gasherbrum I in the Himalayas. Today he runs Himalaya Heliski based in Srinagar offering heliskiing trips in Kashmir region. http://www.pistehors.com/comments/48_0_1_0_C/ Theres some more if you want it: Regards: Bill

Softball question Sir Paul: I try to do it by tagging along with hardmen such as yourself of course! You'd think I could have come up with a wittier Risposte in the 4 hours since you posted!