billcoe

Lots of people. Please. Don't make me start a list. Ever hear of Charlie Porter, Jim Bridwell, Royal Robbins, John Salethe, John Leonard, Bestor Robingson, Yvon Chouinard, Steve Roper just a start all had "more influance" IMO than John. Those are folks just for the Yosemite area alone. Don't start on the rest of the country and guys like Art Gran, Henry Barber etc etc etc. That is not to denigrate JL, he may be one of the best writers of the genre IMO. I absolutley love his stuff. Better bring a new sharpie Muff!! Regards: Bill

Thanks for both the posts smoke: I'll drink to your solid words: Regards" Bill Pretty damn young, I bet that leaves a hole in his families heart. Sad. I better have another to settle me down.

A friend just told me of a climbing death at Broughtons yesterday (3-11-04). He didn't know much, just that it was a young fella who apparently died and was hanging on @30' of rope. Does anybody know anything? I didn't see a thing in the news or on this site, but my searching capabilities are less than stellar. Bill

Sorry to interupt the coming argument, but that must be a big problem for folks, having gumbies fall out of the air onto their heads? Probably time for me to sack up and finally buy a helmet! You're saying that the helmet will keep your neck from being broken ! Wow. I'll try to remember to keep an eye out for that kind of thing (Air Gumby coming at ya) next Smith trip! Lots of interesting things said on this board, and well spoken by you both, well, except perhaps for the Gumby-helmet thing. Regards to all: Bill

Yeah- most of us would consider a great thing to merely be alive at 83, but one thing: that guy looks like hes in his 60's. Could he be lying about his age? Does anybody here personally know him? Just curious: Regards; Bill

Dude, the only thing better than an amazing tale is one so well written. Make sure it gets copied, pasted and turned into creative writing for an easy A+. And thank you from all of us who enjoyed it so much! Regards: Bill

Yup. There but for the grace of God goes I, ot you, or....

Hi Guys That's awesome info, thanks. I'll most likely take you up on the offer to wait a year. Really Really Really: Thank you, that's a mass of great info: Regards: Bill

Thinking I should get up to the enchantments before I get too old. Any current beta on the Flagpole or would be appreciated. Whats the best access now, and didn't that area burn a while ago? Would you recommend other climbs in that area as more worthy or enjoyable? Thank you Bill

Although I've heard good things about the Omega-Pacific device, I've never used it. I am in total agreement with Lummox, love the Bug. Have tried almost every other common device out there.

I've heard what RBW says several times. It has convinced me to stay away. Would you go back Rob?

Huh? Are you saying there are many ways to say nothing. How do you know it was Trask?

Greg: thats kind of rough don't you think. I have never seen a mobile like that and found it humorous and interesting. Perhaps you could have re-worked it and put some lil 45's and 9mils hanging down to show you particular brand of humor. Like you I really don't want to see everybody post baby pics here, but thats not all that pic was. Go lok again: humor, dude, humor. Thanks for sharing Scott. Now how about a lil pullup bar or Bacar ladder for the lil tyke? Regards: Bill

Ummmmm, Warm rime: (..pause's to check between legs) YES, shrinkage for sure, no question, SEVERE shrinkage. Glad you made it down fine and with nothing hitting you on the way down too - even better. Great pics, thanks for sharing Shred: Bill

DUDE! SWEET. Thanks for sharing!! That Smith pic, I can smell it. You know, the early morning, juniper/sagebrush/cold kind of smell. Note to self: GET BROADBAND YUR BURNING DAYLIGHT!!

Roseevelt lying to congress for lend lease appropriations by almost all accounts helped saved Britan and prepare the US militarily for what was coming down the road. It is the reason you are not speaking German today. The short answer is yes.

Is it in? Hurry up my boyfriend is coming over soon. Lets get married.

After 30 years, I still love that place. That story in Outside mag that Talbot did @ 20 years ago about those kids unclipping my gear while I soloed, although true, was over dramatized. That stuff does happen there. I knew a guy had some jackass pull his rope up and STEAL it!! What do you do with somebody elses used toprope? As far as the trash goes, sure it's there, but there is a silver lining too. In 1967 Bruce Litchfield and I found a working slot machine up there( which we attempted to see how it worked and turned into trash). I know some guys who were picking up some of the trash bags some dickhead had thrown off the top of the cliff last year and found some home grown pot in it. The trash I dislike is the glass everywhere. I can't stand getting the glass shards in my hands while climbing. Why do all the idiots toss beer bottles down below to see them break? Some kids from the college were throwing rocks down at my friend Kelly, who ran up to the top and caught up with them. They were unrepentant till he started reading them the riot act. Sure it has some problems but I chose to overlook them. Tex, that loud freeway noise can be imagined to be wind whistling throught he trees. Just have to have mind control.

Sweet: thanks for the invite Pete. If theres a line wrapped around the block twice I might catch the next one, otherwise, like to see you for this one.

I just want to note that I regularly bump into all kinds of people and climb which many of them, some of whom have done the Clackamas CC class. Every one of the CC college folks has been solid and safer than the casual climbers you usually bump into. Based on what I have seen from the students of ccc, 6 or 7 so far (and not even knowing what classes they took) and not even seeing the course syllabis Don is suggesting, I'd highly recommend the course and the college. Those folks are solid safe, while still recognising they still have some learning left. Whoever is running the classes out there should be commended. High regards; My 2 cents: Bill

Probably depends on the dog. I had a dog that used to go everywhere with me. Xcountry sking and climbing. Best route she ever climbed was Wyeast on Hood. The animal was an animal, she could claw up near vertical snow. Next dog I had was a pussy, (big Irish Wolfhound) and it would have been dumb to get her out on the snow other than short hhikes or hanging out in the Mazama lodge kind of thing. Great dog, but alas............... Best thing is to see what your animal can and want to do. Peter GAyeswqua had a dog that climbed Hood more than most people. He always took it out, they'll just trail behind while you break trail. My dogs name was not Butch.

Blake: I highly recommend the Mazamas. Great people and lots of knowledge there. I helped teach (I forget what they are called? Co-ordintors?) The Mazamas Advanced Program for 2 years about 1983 and 4 or so. Awesome. But, I hear the basic program is slow and boring. Still, learning the basics is real important, belaying may be the most important thing I think. I've been climbing for over 30 years. Seems to me, that people either go slow and have great climbing mentors and partners, or they have a near tradjic accidents, sometimes even fatal. Get a bunch of climbers around a campfire, smoke a dubbie or 2 and drink a brew, and the stories start coming out. It's always amazing how many of us (myself included) have this scary shit happen to us when we first start out. If it was me, and I had to do over again, I'd go through the mazamas, read every book I could find, and still climb with very experienced folks. Thats my opinion. Also, look around and check it out, PSU use to have a great great outdoor program (I ran it for 2 years, last I checked it was still going on, 4th floor of Smith Hall), and Clacakamas CC has a solid climbing class. In fact, the CCC class thing may be the best option for starting out rock Climbing. Ujohn, one of my current climber parners went through that one and he's solid. That would not help the desire to learn about the mountains however. Mazamas. Yup. You are definately starting out the right way by asking the question. Luck to you, hope I helped: Bill

Sorry: I need to type slower as I even confuse myself, and now I can't edit the post. 1st: from the P2 bolts on YW, you go straight up @30-40 feet where can go straight, or swerve to the right. You went straight, should have swerved to the r. in order to stay on route. So you were off route early in the pitch. BUT Lost Variation crosses YW higher up too, so high up on that pitch, when you were looking up the steep slab with the obvious pins in it, standing on a comfortable grassy little ledge, you had gotten back on route. You should have turned hard left and headed west, but you missed the turn. see? You missed it twice. Tim or anybody will tell you this too, P4 on YW is an awesome pitch, challenging all the way, fair protection-enough, but not too much of it. You should definately go back again. If it's wet, I'd pass on it except P1 is still OK, I've done it wet and it's fine, as is Rythem Method/Raindance, the bolted 5.7/8 face @ 30 feet around the corner to the North. You should ask Wayne his personal favs, he's been all over this rock big time. Not to insult anyone, but how is it everyone in Oregon thinks Beacon is in Oregon? I've checked the map several times, it's definatly in Wa. - This is in response to this being posted in "Oregon Cascades" section. Regards: Bill

I know a little aboout Beacon. Guessing here, other than sounding like classic Beacon: it may have been the "Lost variation" on SE Corner (5.8). (You probably just did the 4th or 5th ascent- just kidding, but it's rarely climbed anymore.) See a manky rusty 1/4 Rawl bolt up there somewhere? Just re-read your post, now I'm unsure really. Sketchfest describes the 2nd pitch accuratly on YW. It is very different than your description. The small book just to the r of the 1st pitch RAP ANCHORS (again, the actual end of P1 is a single bolt 15 feet up and l of the 2 bolt rap station) of YW goes up slightly right above the rap anchors(easy5.5) and steps left (@5.10B) @ 40' up to easy climbing up a ramp leading slightly left which ends at the the 2 bolt 2nd pitch anchors. It makes YW the very best climb out at Beacon IMO. It is an awesome F*en route and pitch. I named that the "Old Fart variation" to the Young Warriors route after Bob McMahon, Dave English and I did it (my lead) but someone chopped our bolts. (Bob is 55, I'm 48 and Dave is 41 years old now). If you were at the Rap anchors (again, the correct end of the first pitch is 15 feet left of the rap anchors on a little ledge with the bolt low, then you pro the crack) and went Left then up the dihedral rigth above the single bolt whicfh marks the real end of the 1st pitch thats @5.10C pretty much straight up but still ends at the 2 bolt 2nd pitch anchors. The 10C goes straight up from the anchor, not right as you describe. The "thin open book" is probably one of those, but sounds like the old fart variation. The variation to SE corner crosses young warriors after the 3rd pitch, and is to the Right of Young Warriors from there continuing higher up. Your description makes it sound harder than 5.8 unless it was wet. It goes up the steep slab where YW cuts left to the 3rd anchors, the pins in the shitty little alcove. None of the 2nd pitches you described (Old fart, 10C, or the real YW going hard left to the butthole crack) are 150" though, not even close. If you were where Tim said you were- you were real close to the 3rd pitch anchors, (which looks different than your description), I think that is in fact the SE Corner-Lost variation, goes straight up instead of hard left like Crackman says. Bill hmmmmmm could be-or not Somebody will now show up flaming me for some reason or another. Lets see. Probably better to not talk about climbing at all, but yammer inane triva and meaningless bullshit like many on this site. Sigh... sorry to bring it back to climbing, but sounded like fun anyway, eh Michael? dohhhh: just showed up to flame myself. re-re-read your post. 1st to, you mean 2 TWO. Dohhh. Yeah, Lost Variation, you should go to the diheadral which cuts slightly R @30-40 feet up to be on YW. You missed P2 of YW 2 times. You missed the YW diheadral easing right, then high up should have headed left just like time says. Pretty sure. There are 3 variations off the young warriors 1st belay though. Like Emily Lattila says: nevermind. Jeeeesse.

Best rockclimbing site is this one, hands down: http://www.rockclimbing.com So the answer to your question is Z: none of the above.... since http://www.rockclimbing.com isn't there. See you: Bill