billcoe

I'll buy the first 2 if it will help!

Thats funny Matt: I woke up this morning thinking that the reason BGoat was pissed at me, was because I so easily accepted the "your partner is a noob and lied to you" charge the 2nd Num layed down on post 2. It was wrong of me to so readily do so. I also remembered an incident - long forgotten until now, which I experienced in the late 90's. On a Saturday, I had led a route at Smith, left 2 draws on bolts and a backup piece of pro tossed in a crack so my partner Bob McMahan could follow TR'ed from the ground. He did, and he (I thought) then broke it down and rappelled. As the pieces were not visible from directly below due to a ledge, I didn't think twice. Next day we are walking by that route and from a distance I see my stuff all hanging up there. He'd climbed up, clipped in, got off belay, then setup a rappel and just left all my stuff. He forgot to pull my stuff and thread it through the rap rings/anchors which were right there. I ask him: "Hey, Bob, are you climbing up to pull my pieces or buying me new stuff"? (This was of course asked with a smile) Bob had no explanation when I asked him what had happened. Now before anyone say Bob was either a Noob or a Liar. Let me say that at this point, Bob and I had been climbing together for @ 15 years. In the dictionary, if you look up "best climbing partner ever" I think his picture is still in there. No matter if you were on Liberty Ridge or Liberty Bell, Bob was awesome and rock solid. Very experinced in all facets of climbing, Bob was the guy you wanted to be tied into when the whiteout hit that remote peak or somebody ("please Bob lead this pitch as I've peed myself AGAIN thinking of the fall potential and can't climb with wet pants") had a do the full pitch runout in Yosemite or some other heinous rock offwidth. Bob was (still is) a licensed and accredited AMGA guide, and all the times we were together, no matter if guiding or climbing together: I rarely ever say him make a mistake or error in judgement. And- In the @ 25 years I've known him, I have NEVER caught him lying to me. Never. He just forgot, and he was standing on a ledge looking right at the gear. Point is Matt: Stuff happens as you've so capably explained. Please accept my apologies. Of course, you could have let the thread run until somebody accused you of climbing with Jeffery Dahmer or something like that -this being the internet and all. Regards to all: Bill

Funny: But check out how unusual CC.com looks. http://www.netdisaster.com/go.php?mode=dog&url=http://www.cascadeclimber.com/ Why is that?

I haven't done Peyote, Schrooms, Acid and all the rest of it for @25 plus years. Can I still climb after work with ya? PS, Nolse wants to come play too, but I can't be there till @ 5:40 or so. Bill

No sweat Bill L, I apologise if I offended anybody as well. Sometimes words can be read as angry and offensive when they were thought in the mind gently. I love to climb, and if I'm not doing it, and its been wet as hell lately, I want to talk about it or fondle my gear and think about it! Definatly a sickness, and I think it should be a happy thing. I just got a box from Mountain gear (I'm looking at it on my desk- it just came in) full of Leeper cam hooks and gotta go do what I love 2nd best. (I just discovered them when Andrew Trzynka loaned me his pieces to lead the West Face of Monkee crack, WOW! Simple little pieces of metal, amazing stuff. Who knew, gotta go fondle. Warm regards: Bill ______________________________ You're still OK for a goat:-) - and it's an admirable thing you're looking out for your friends.

Some great advice there. I bet you think of yourself as really hardcore, huh Bill. Harcore/Hardman, another dick basically. They're coming out of the woodworks... You don't know me Billygoat, but I can tell you I don't appreciate the personal attack as it's unwarrented. Take a chill pill will ya. I'm hardly hardcore, but after 30 some years of climbing I see begineers making mistakes all the time, this is just another example,I learned this the hard way unfortunatly. Again, I'd return it, but this guy is under no obligation, in fact, it's a cheap lesson. I found a schweet HB quadcam on the crux pitch on Serenity Crack in Yos just last week. Came right out. I kept it, it's in perfect working condition - but would return it if somebody spoke up. Why somebody left it to trash up the route is beyond me though, it was an easy stance right before the crux, and we weren't going to leave it behind, it came right out. No matter is you continue to Sons of Yesterday - like we did, or rappel from the top of that pitch which is where Serenity ends, you can rap right over this piece. Interesting no? Anyway, no need to call me a dick. I'm curious what your real name is. Bill

Did he also suggest you do not try to sell t-shirts that say Nike or Adidas as well? Good luck Michael. Hey, is that a t-shirt of a guy chasing a sheep on your site? I'd buy one, but I click on it and it goes away.

Wow, I swear I didn't put Dru up to pitch that one! Yes Dru, Mao WAS a framer, he helped frame the Chinese consitution, which A) doesn't allow gun ownership among the population. B) doesn't allow political FREEDOM either. Hell, even surfing the wrong web site or posting an opinion to a blog can wind you up in a re-education camp. Obviously your Mao quote shows the linkage Mao knew existed between firearm ownership and political freedom. Thank you for the prima facie evidence. Gracias dude for closing the arguement out in a logical manner: the only posts which follow this one and opposing the gun ownership position will now be like braying Donkee noises: loud, but lacking substance. Bill

Huh? Opening yet to come in 2 weeks and it looks like it changed you already! Probably be voting Republican next!

Tex, I never got to turn you on to the Butte! Damn, sigh (see recent link). http://www.rockclimbing.com/topic/90262 You're a solid fella and fun to be around, sorry to see you leave - and I wish you well where ever you land. High regards: Bill _____________________________________________________ Just a reminder: don't mess with Texas

I would want to know. I'd thank num1mc for being honest and telling the rest of the story. He's right in his advice too. That gear is gone and you have no right to get it back. If you want to climb with people that treat your expensive gear like trash, you deserver to lose it IMO. Sorry for your loss, BUT..... The moral of this story is DON'T CLIMB WITH NEWBIES. Especially one that will lie to you. The dude probably claims to be a great belayer too. If it was me, I'd give it back. I have had stuff like that happen and have returned it if I knew who it was. But num1mc is under no obligation to do so. Chalk it up to a learning experince that didn't cost you your life, you owe num1mc a word of thanks for both being honest and giving you good advice IMO. Regards: Bill

mid-day or so, solid belay skills. let me know.

Must agree with Toast. The point is not that everybody agrees that no slur was intended (even if that were true). The point is that the word "jap" in its conventional use is considered by many Japanese Americans (and some white folk too) to be offensive. That should be enough. Shame on you for using the word (your convenience, Toast's expense). Shame on you for having to be corrected by somebody who is offended. Shame on you for excusing your own clumsy writing. Well spoken Pope, and I think we all learned to just shut the f up and sit right back down.

You're OK assmonkee.

Yah Frosty ya lazy bastard. Look what you started. It only strengthens my hypothesis that "no good deed shall go unpunished", you trying to help the little baby birds and all. Toast, been there, done that. Pretty incredible and unbelivable: glad that it's 2005 now. Gladly share the stories with you over a campfire and a beer if you'd stop being so sensistive. There was misery and pain to go all the way around for everybody, not just the AJA - you want a rehash and a discussion of a bunch of other misery during that time period lets save that for the same campfire. 've been to a couple of 442nd reunions, Keichi (father in law) was 442nd company I, and I met a lot of good fellas at his funeral, and have been to the clubhouse in Honolulu. Those fine guys (and gals) don't carry a chip, and they have some serious stories - and neither should you. But thats your choice, not mine. Thats my opinion and I'm done discussing it. Nobody wanted to offend anybody, just save some little birds, and now everybody feels bad. Regards: Bill

JAP doesn't mean Jewish American Princess? -sorry for the rest of you I just offended.- Toast, isn't JAP just a lazy way to shorten the word "Japanese"? How is that a racial slur? Don't mean to be a racist as my kids are 1/2 Jap......anese-American. In fact, I was the victom myself when her parents found out she was denigrating the Japanese race by marrying a white person (horrors). I hadn't really thought about it till then, guess I'm a bit naive. Should the route be renamed "Japanese"? I don't want to make anybody feel inferior as they invariably can outclimb the shit out of me, but what do you recommend? Regards: Bill

You are mistaken, primary function of my firearms, as the Framers intended - is freedom. Political freedom. Of course, you must think that once you have it you can just forget about it because it will always be there? We obviously will disagree on that minor point. Bill

Thats awesome, however, you folks mistakenly scheduled it for when I was in the valley. I'm back, when is the next time I can catch this?

I have the USHBA too (gear freak), and it's amazingly awesome light, futhermore, it has a great end to smack with your palm, but it is flimsy and will bend easily. If it was slightly wider material and a bit stiffer, it might be the ultimate. But it isn't. BTW, the wisdom of Cobra commander is obvious -total agreement here with that statement.

I have one (gear freak) and although I love it - it's not the ultimate tool. The knife is very high quality, the nut tool is strong yet still light, but the bashing end is a little on the small side to be a hitting with a fist. Regards; Bill

Thanks Chris: Also, F anyones info, the Valley store has it for 1/2 price at $16.00 right now if you are interested in buying it.

Tri-nuts suck. Tried them, I'm old and don't get it. Don't really know Dmm wallnuts. Metolious nuts seem to get stuck real easy. I would not buy them. It wasn't just me, last year in the valley, one of the campmates had a set, we all tried them and in the end they were left in camp. I think there are leads where you get gripped and give the normal tug to set a nut, and in that instance, your 2nd gets F*ed trying to get it out - much much more than regular BD or Smiley nuts which work great anyway to start with. But thats me. Regards: Bill

Thanks CBS, It eases the mind to know that some funtionary didn't look at my post and say "what a dickhead" or something like that and just erase it:-)

Wow, yesterday I posted this open question looking for community replys and today it's gone. ?? WTF did I do? . I lost it. So I'll repost. Fuenos and I were out at the Butte and noticed that the only bolt on Jealeous Rage is about gone. Way rusted and the hanger is loose. I'd like to replace it, but knowing how some have attitude about bolts out there, I am asking all, if anyone has any objections to me trying to yank it and either re-drilling or replacing? It's a serious question, I don't want to put it in and have it yanked out the next day just cause it's a new bolt. No yelling, quiet resonses only please. Bill

Well-it's 2005, time to get the expedition on the move.