billcoe

You might take a moment to add up your own stuff Toast, I bet if most of us did that, we'd be shocked. I suspect some of these folks have that much tied up in knicknacks. It's sure nice to have ins. when some jackass steals your stuff.

Ditto on the reminder thanks Jon. The worst part of this whole trip is that we are paying to have these non-productive parasitical members of society do this non-productive, intrusive, and unwanted chore. I wonder how many millions this sh*t is costing us that could be better spent? Hmmm, I have to be wrong about that. I must be radically mistaken about this....it must be due to the fact that all of the murderers, rapists, thieves, killers, baby molestors have been rounded up and taken care of...finally. I must not have heard about it though. I'm sure I'll hear that good news later though. -so- Good job guys, glad our money is going somewhere productive after all. Finally ALL of the important things have been finished and you can start in on the bulls*t that means nothing TO ANYBODY. Bill ______________________________________________________ thats my editorial for the day: if you disagree, that's OK, but please post your address and we'll send the bulls over to your house to kick the door in for you.

No answers? Am I going to have to beg, or pay for it ? Whats the office pool say? bill

If there is no rain today, who would want to belay me on a few laps after work? @5:30pm. Anyone........anyone?..........would it make it better if I said I lost 4-6 lbs in Yos so catching my lard ass won't be as painful? cya: Bill

Sorry, I should have more fully explained. It was almost word for word exactly what happened (to another climber) a year ago. Based on what I saw in person and what the news reported Sat night. My story was a combo of what I saw, and what the news reported. So I copied/massaged and pasted from a fall in the same location a year ago. Anybody who knows me will tell you I'm lazy, this is just another opprotunity for me to reinforce that idea:-) - DOHHHH, Sorry Brian. Coulior: The full story is I was going to do some bouldering at the top, as I drove by the fire truck/ambulance folks were still talking to a young girl who was in the process of taking off her harness. After bouldering, I swung by to try and find somebody to climb with. I saw a red truck parked there, so I walked back and the place was deserted except for their rope and setup. I figured that the red truck/gear owner rode the ambulance and would be back for the schizzel the next day or so. I didn't climb there Sunday but went elsewhere, so the gear might be there yet for all I know. The rest of the info came from Kgw. Regards: Bill

PORTLAND -- Portland Fire and Rescue responded Saturday afternoon to a rock climber who plummeted over 60 feet at the popular Rocky Butte State Park. The victim, a male in his 20s, was climbing with some other young people shortly before 2 p.m. on the northeast side of Rocky Butte in the "Video Bluff" area when he fell. They had the 11A route "Damaged Circuit" clipped with a single locking carabiner in each chain, then 2 doubled up sewn runners stretching to 1 locker which the rope ran through. THEY HAD NO BACKUP ROPE OR SLINGS. Meaning they were unroped during the dangerous scramble to the lip of the cliff to clip the chains. The rope and setup remained and appeared in good condition after the evacuation. The victim was transported to a local hospital and treated for non life-threatening injuries whch were judged to be serious (not critical). Anyone who decides to climb at Rocky Butte should be aware that the northeast side of the butte is in shade most of the day and therefore the rocks are covered with moss, making them slippery. It is not uncommon to see gym climbers arrive expecting that reaching over the edge to clip the 2 or 3 little chains, to be acceptable. Being unroped at the top of a cliff is a recipe for disaster, a disaster which the news announced happened a surprising 10 times last year. Given that the TV news showed the fire crews at the lower trail, it can be surmised that the fall could have most commonly happened from one of 3 places: 1) The top of video bluff while setting up or getting to the cliff edge to rap. 2) While belaying (stepping off of the flat base "trail" could be just as catastrophic as falling off the top. 3) Falling on the descent/ascent trail just to the NE by the tree. Ok Ok, I confess. I lifted most of that from a 2004 accident and added a bit. Channel 8 showed this on the news last night. Where's Brian Barker, he works for that station and they had a camera crew there. That is some help, but I'm not sure where or why the guy fell. The news mad it sound like he'd recover OK, that could mean anything. Here's wishing a speedy recovery dude! Thats what I know Ryland, anyone want to add anything? Regards: Bill

Jury acquits snowboard maker in Mt. Bachelor death 12:06 AM PDT on Monday, May 30, 2005 Associated Press In what is believed to be the first liability verdict in the nation involving a snowboard manufacturer, a Multnomah County jury ruled a Swiss company was not to blame for the 2002 death of a young woman on Mount Bachelor. file photo Mt. Bachelor. Frank and Ellen Svitek of Ambler, Pa., sued Nidecker of Rolle, Switzerland, after their daughter, Kate Svitek, 22, was trapped in a well of deep snow surrounding a tree and died on Feb. 8, 2002, at the central Oregon ski resort. The trial centered on the snowboard's bindings. Unlike ski bindings, which automatically release in a fall to prevent injury, snowboard bindings do not release. The Sviteks' attorney, Joseph Chaiken of Philadelphia, argued that nonreleasable bindings increase the risk of death if a snowboarder falls into a well of deep snow that typically forms around a tree trunk. Unable to kick off the board, a rider can become trapped in the snow and suffocate. But the attorney for Nidecker, Brad Stanford of Portland, argued nonreleasable bindings are safer overall because they allow the snowboard to act as an anchor when a rider falls. Releasable bindings can also cause injuries if only one foot releases from the board, Stanford said. The Multnomah County Circuit Court jury agreed with Stanford and Nidecker on Friday, although the verdict was not unanimous. Three jurors lingered in a hallway outside the courtroom to tell Svitek's parents that the snowboard industry should pay more attention to product safety. Stanford, however, said the manufacturer felt that the verdict "reaffirms that these nonreleasable bindings are safe." "Given the industrywide implications of a negative verdict," Stanford said, "we are very happy." Chaiken told The Oregonian after the Friday verdict that challenging the standards of a big sports industry was always "a tough case." He said Svitek's parents knew they were breaking ground with their lawsuit. A search of legal databases by the Portland newspaper showed that a product-liability case against a manufacturer of snowboard bindings had never gone to a jury in the United States. The young woman's parents said they still believe their daughter could have kicked off the board and escaped if manufacturers offered releasable bindings. Despite the odds against victory in court, the Sviteks sued Nidecker for $15 million. "This may sound corny," Ellen Svitek said, "but I didn't want Kate to die in vain." Thats the whole story from here: http://www.kgw.com/business/stories/kgw_052905_biz__snowboard_verdict.2c3da5b28.html

That's amazing. (insert mouth gaping open pic here), really amazing.

Awesome idea Ducknut! Spicoli: if your going for strength, take a 9mil rope and tie off to the front of your hummer. It's already got a d ring and everything. Double that up if you need it . Hope that helps.

Lot of statistics posted earlier. The real truth is that 80 percent of the time 45 percent of the previous posters are incorrect in 60 percent of their posts......... ...........what the hell was the question? Oh- Chains? What chains? You guys need to get out and do some real climbing. We don't need no stinking chains man. Wait, the probable correct answer is "try not to."

Is that 5.12+ rating for a pink point or a redpoint Cobra? Awesome schizzel BTW, keep on sir, and may I add that it sounds like you need to keep with the Gri Gri.

Hmmm, next time you might consider blowing up your water wings while softly humming "Nearer my God to Thee" as you calmly wait for that glass of wine.

I'm sure I speak for all in congratulating Chaps on what may be the biggest CC.com troll yet. So it turns out that Chaps must live on Minnesota STREET in like BELLINGHAM. Whadda say? Congrats Chaps and mega more power Kudos for a job well trolled. Bill

Wow, pretty harsh cappellini dude. Overlooking the joke and moving on, I was at a Chinese wedding reception while back. They served (of many, many dishes) something that looked just like a cooked blackened starling head. No joke! Just the head of these small birds, species which was unrecocnisable to me -ohhh, yes I ate one to try it. So, I wanted you to know in advance, so that you don't accidently get surprised at one of these receptions and start trying to stuff blackened cooked birds heads up the brides fathers asscheeks or some other equally strange netherworldly region of one of the other hosts. Seriously. Cheerrio!

But with a Michael jackson smile on his face I bet.

Cobra - you sidestepped Chaps question. Interesting eh? bill

errrr.....I was only saying that aggro is only a mouse click away - I'm glad it's not here.

isn't this like 2 year old news?

You want aggro conflict Michael? Here ya are: www.assclensionist.com opps,mean http://www.ascensionist.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=8846&an=0&page=0#8846 Where the thread starts out innocently enough as "I copied this from a thread on another site asking for partners to climb East Buttress Direct on SEWS. When I questioned that he would climb this route with someone he didn't know this is the response I got: " Besides, it's bolted. Also, washington pass isn't THAT alpine. " Ah, the hubris of youth: no mention of the two 5.9 chimneys which I hear are no giveaway. Anyway, I thought it was humorous. Serious route, no question. " then quickly deginerates with this from Trask about you sir: " He asked wrong. Layton knows the proper way to find a partner -- classic: Need partner for SEWS East Buttress Direct 8/15. Any of you clownpunching spray hording mouthbreathing windowlickers not too busy jackin' off to gay porn or giving beta on the tooth, then PM me and I will select one of you the rest can go Fuck yourself. " Enjoy, now you have a place to be cranked and spit at and on! Bill

I have on some pretty steep slopes, not 45-50 degree slopes, but more than once although icy is a subjective thing as you know. One time with 3 people tied in behind me. But I thought he's doing the south side of Hood. It's not 45-50 degrees, I hear it's 35 degrees at the steepest, and in July it would be doubtful that it is icy at all. Think slushy. Somewhat in agreement. If you can slam the shaft of your ice axe straight down, and in July you will, you're going nowhere. Better to focus on both perhaps? Your althletisism from doing long climbs-hikes and balance which you've got from rock climbing will help you a lot. Not sure I agree with that self arrest in a day statement Sean. Answering the tent question. For what you are going to do, your tent should be fine. If the weather is so bad you need a 4 season tent, you shouln''t be going up, but heading to the Rams Head (?) (bar inside of Timberline lodge) and drinking a couple of Spanish Coffees. http://www.timberlinesymposium.com/HTML/venue.html Hmmmmm......Spanish Coffees.......mmmmmmmmmmmmm If you decide to pitch the tent for any amount of time, not just overnight, you might look around for a little valley or low spot to put it in, there's high spots and low spots all over the slopes. Most likely any serious wind will be coming in from the west that time of year, so plan accordingly. Just pay close attention to the weather reports. If it's stable extended weather you may have little problems other than potential rock fall as Iain warned. I've climbed that mountain at least once in every month of the year. July-August and on can have some interesting rocks come down: not like in a rock climbing area where most commonly you'll see some 1"-2" rocks, but sometimes real big-assed rocks. You'd think the slushy snow would stop them dead, but occasionally you'll get these head-sized rocks whiz right by you so fast you can barely see them. It's amazing that more people don't get smacked by them IMO. Maybe as the date gets closer, check in here and see if somebody is heading up there and you can hook up with them. You should be fine though, and you'll have a great time if the weather co-operates.

Chaps - I would apologise for everybodys behavior, but we all know you are really Dru. Of course, so are about 1/2 of the Avatars on this site. People in the NW are really different than Minnisotans. Minnisotans are nice. If you really aren't Dru, I'm sure nobody wishes you any harm, sorry some of the folks here stirred up a ruckus over there, it's probably just boredom. Its been raining some lately and if people can't go climbing they like to talk about it. I will say that if you look around this site: you will notice that the heading for this thread is "spray". Like spray from ones mouth. It might not have anything to do with anything: even climbing. Maybe that will help explain it for you. Anyway, good climbing, and luck on Rainier: Bill

I think most of us would be happy with that nickname.

Fuenos nailed it with the learn to self arrest comment. That alone is the greatest single skill you can posess on a slog like this. As Iain said, there is only 1 crevase and in July its very visable, and stay the hell out of the Fumerole that will most likely be very interesting looking at that time of year. You might consider just hiking up a bit from Timberline with a tent and overnight gear, and practicing self-arrest on one of the minor snow slopes that has a safe runout. Spend an extra day practicing and hanging out, then fire the route early (by following the other 2000 people heading up that day). Wearing a helmet (Re-read Iains part about the rocks twice if you need to) and good eye protection/sunscreen/lipscreen is a must. I've seen people up there in july in tennis shoes, with a walking stick and no more: climb to the top in a tank top and shorts. But I don't recommend it. I've been on rescues of people who were very prepared and a damn good thing they were as bad weather screwed their plans and they got stuck for a while. Good luck

Fuenos you cow tipper. Winona? dude, I spent part of summer 1977 there and in rushford with my old Army buddies Randy Laumb and Al Schley. They bouth wound up marrying Winona girls (but I don't know their last names), they were sisters though. Randy was origonally from Rushford MN, home of lots of Laumbs and Al was from @ 20 miles further down the road. I gotta get up and turn the stero down as it's playing "it's a small small world" disruptively. If you go to Rushford and check out the bank there, I painted the top 10'-12' or so part of that. Yeah, people used to just come by and watch me up on that 40 foot ladder painting. It was like the prime recreation for the town for awhile, people would stand down there for an extraordinary long time. Randys son Alex is graduation form High school this year, I just go the notice.

Wow! I just did a quick check for Lyme disease and saw that it can lead to vertigo, which is what caused my old climbing partner Bob to retire from climbing @ 3-4 years ago after like 25 years. He never found the cause of the vertigo though despite helth care and extensive internet searches. I'm on it, I'll let you all know the results later when Bob gets back to me.