billcoe

Hi Kevin: I think that generally, these kinds of comments which don't address the subject at all but are just placed to trash a thread get put anywhere in "Spray". It helps to keep the flow of what others might feel is an important topic that is happening elsewhere off of the "spray" threads, about real subjects which are occasionally important. So an off "spray" version might be something like this: Then put in at least one of these---> Or 2 Then somebody will come back an tell a tale of a Green Zero ripping on a 40 footer and how they will never use one again.....back and forth.

Thanks for the heads up Bryan. Maybe John will roadtrip there next and invite me along? Sounds great.

Salright dude, no worries I still respect ya. You canceled, Ujahn had the flu, John was going to Smith, about everyone else wanted to sleep in till noon it seems. But I got @ 2000' of mileage in anyway. Legs are sore today. I'm old. See you next week.

link? it was tough for me too. the whole time i was at the hot springs i just wanted to tell all of you about the nekkid girls, and the waves were not there for the surfing. LINK It WAS Infinite, it was NOT Bliss. Now where that trip report with the pics of nekked girls?

Don't you ever leave again! In your absence many of the normally sane posters on this board turned in whiney, sniveling, crybaby Beyotches. Don't make us have to pay you to stick around godamnit!

So true. HealyJ was all over CCH on that one, I think the best they could come up with was stoney silence for some time. Not very inspiring. That was the Orange one, even more interesting is a user on RC.com posted pictures of digitally measuring his new Grey Alien which had cams identical in size to the Yellow. It was a Yellow in everything but sling color. Wondering if the cam hole alignment may have been an issue here. Of course, as long as those guys have been climbing, it could have been a 20 year old piece. Not likely, but it could be. CCH says that they are testing eveything which has left the factory, and this most likely is a pre-test Alien: but if I was Peter Mayfield and had my hands on the piece, I think I'd be measuring the various parts of that pro to see if it conforms to what other Yellow Aliens are. Then at the end of the day, you can say that the placement just failed. We all know they do, even to real experienced people. For all that I was out today plugging mine in with wild abandon and no thought till now that they might let me down. Although I backed up a couple with nuts I noticed, not a common occurance for me. Must be in the back of my mind.

Crackers, I don't know how you did it, but you quickly killed off this thread.

Tell her that she's #2 on your priority list dude, we gotta go climbing.

Alpine start eh? My post to Sean discussed it being 93 tomorrow and Blownout being full on in the sun all day............. we might be wilted, burnt to a crisp and having a microbrew by the time you wake up

pm

Beacon tomorrow, like some easy cracks for finger recovery. Hows Blownout for you, I'll give you the easy pitch and JH is talking about being out there too. Oh, tape might be Aid, but expect to see me covered from elbows to tips. I'm a wuss.

Dude! I thought you wanted to be pushing yourself on the hard 11's and 12s so I blew you off. Shit, you wind up doing 5.9 and 10a fingercracks, hell I could have climbed with you. My fingers really needed a break though from the last 2 times I was hanging with you and got all beat up, I wake up at 3 am and they hurt. Later they loosen up as the day goes on... not that you give a rats ass as long as you get a belay:-) You should try wisdom tooth to the right of Birds of Paradise, it's probably a 12. I haven't been on it for years (since I got old and fat) and have never ever seen anyone else on it, so it might be dirty. Good lead too, it will take those new cams pretty good. Word to the wise- I'd try and pull that obvious flake right below the crux off on rappel first, it was slightly loose years ago, God only knows what it's thinking of doing now.

Soooo, it would be a Grade V for you then? What with the grizziles and your bringing a waterbed and all?

Check under your windshield wiper dude. I didn't have your phone number and didn't see you, just your car (saw folks on Vertical therapy). Did the lite bouldering and saw no crackman btw.

G-spotter said: Well you didn't say where you plan on locating this stuff. Certainly an isolated spot in the desert would be different than a heavily trafficed area west of the mountains in the rain zone. -But- Last anchor stuff I did was maybe 3/8" or possibly 5/16" type 316 stainless steel. Rock and Ice did a pull test and suprisingly found out that short toproping falls could generate forces up to 1300 lbs in their tests. Don't you think that if you had a heavier person like Ivan falling and dogging you could just about yank that 3/16" chain apart? Unless you are planning on linking 5 or 6 of them together or haivng hangers with links to connect the chain to them that is, so people can clip the hangers, but then you don't need the chain. Peole can clip off with draws. I think that 5/16 diameter stainless chain should be about the minimum for any new anchor application, unless traditionally at that specific location people have been putting in their own gear, and then you should just leave it alone and use gear like everyone else. But if you are doing a new line, don't you want it to last and no one to get injured in 5 years when that thin chain has rusted about 1/4 way through? An alternative is to use the thick Metolius hangers which you can rap directly off of. Here's a chain link...so to speak, listing strengths, for you to peruse. chain proof load link Good luck!

Well, not really - in a whiteout, then you really want a topographical map an altimeter and a compass.

linky I didn't see the "how come ropes are so damn expensive thread", but here you go if you need a rope. I'm especially encouraging Tim to go get one, as anyone whos been out with him knows, his old 11 mil feels like steel cable. How the hell can you make a rope that stiff thats not actually a Goldline anyway? Timmmmmmmyyyyyyyyyyy.....................

No trouble? No trouble for Bill? You miss the part about my tendons in my fingers screaming at me this morning?? Lite bouldering sounds good, I might join in, I left my shoes at home- and I can pick up Seans new Tricam.

That shit will wash right off, mfg of ropes do recommend Woolite. Cold water, extra rinse wouldn't hurt either.

Shit, from this armchair it looks even easier than that. I think us internet warriors should collectively downgrade it to 5.9 Grade II. No A0 and NO 5.11. In fact lets just call it 5.7, probably not any harder than that. That way it seems easier, and we don't actually have to get on it or even leave town to confirm the actual grade. What say. Wait, I'm looking at the pic differently now, I'll have to say that you are all correct, it's 5.9 Grade III with a spot of 5.10 MAYBE....but no aid hey? There, that was easy. Whew. This is a lot less dangerous too, I think they have Grizzlies in Idaho don't they?

I'm out for tonight, finger tendons have requested a rest day.

Trying to change the title to Ephenedrine in 4 hours later

Yes grasshopper...errrr, flyingpig: at 50 posts you're ready to post a new topic - go free solo so to speak. But no swearing or calling anybody names till you've hit 200 posts is the rule I believe. Then you're hooked. One rainy day somebody who is in a suny state will have rock and rolled up a 1000' granite first ascent and as the rain pounds down your window, you are starin incredulously at this beautiful, sunny, amazing climb these guys just sent. Pretty soon all you will do is talk about climbing instead of actually doing some climbing like some of these guys. For instance, after Trask got kicked off this board, after like half a million posts, Mike Adamson reported that Trask was not a climber and never had climbed! Anything evidently. Shit, I may a pussy but at least I still put my own pro in and get out and enjoy myself occasionally. So as you get sucked in and enter this dark tunnel called the internet, don't forget that major point, that there is still a thing called Nature outside the window, and sometimes we all need to re-connect. Well, not Trask apparently. All he could do was run his mouth off and call people names, and boy could he do that well..... Take care BTW, how did you like the way I just arbitrarily changed the title to make myself smile? I like it too. Take care. Bill

No flames from me Wayne, you're right to ask. I'd volenteer but 30 miles 7000' elevation gain you'd be carrying me along with everything else. I will say to any strong young pups listening, take this most exellent opprotunity to hang with Wayne. And carry his stuff. Send it Wayne. Hey, might look into Llamas if you can't hook any pups. Standing back for sheep jokes now in ...1.....2......3........

Missing