billcoe

The tooth count around here is actually higher than the spelling would indicate. No so with the Central wa threat I believe. _______________________________________________________ From that thread Powderhound directs you to, in case you missed it on P22, ...alwasy worth repeating. "Short technical note: I figure that posting my rant thing here for everybody, just once, might be better than PMing everyone. As it’s a new year, with new folks, I want to restate my terms and conditions. Sorry if you heard this before. I don’t know the skill levels of people tomorrow so I’ll repeat. I only have 1 major issue. Safety. As such, I give and expect 100 percent perfect belays. 100 percent perfect means: good communication, ground checks for every climber/belayer, and brake hand on the rope ground to ground round trip for any climber off the deck who thinks they are on, or should be on, belay. If you've ever seen a person dropped by their belayer, you witnessed a less than perfect belay. Might have been a 99 percenter, hard to say, but it was less than 100 percent. 1 really don't give a rats ass if you can outclimb me, welcome to a huge club if like most people you can. I don't care. I don't want to hear anyone say it's just top roping either. I choose to be safe and as part of that refuse to climb with anyone who expects to do less. If you don’t like what I’m saying here, don’t show up. Last year the rescue crews were called out for 10 cliff incidents, most in the area we will be in. Every Fucking one of which was avoidable, except that somebody chose to not be safe. Don’t think this can’t or won’t happen to you. I once carried out one of the most experienced Oregon climbers who had just finished the easy White Rabbit 5.3 down climb and while turning on relatively flat ground, banana-peeled on the wet mud and seriously pitched. The hospital stay was like a month or so with the broken ribs, punctured lungs, surgery to remove the spleen and permanent pins added to the wrist a week into the stay with more surgery. No one is immune and it’s a choice we can make. I free solo out here sometimes and it always shocks and surprised that rare person who sees me toping out - I’m fine with you doing so too, best not this time of year with this group please, let’s let it dry out and clean off some. I don’t want to teach belays either. If you don’t have your Sh*T together, don’t come out expecting that somebody will help you to get it together. Make arrangements with somebody else some other time, I’d rather solo. I like to get set up efficiently and rapidly to get maximum time to get pumped. That might mean running up 3 laps in a row without untying and/or down climbing. Given the time constraints, it’s not a good time to be dogging a route unless you have a belayer who’s toasted out and done in, and nobody is standing at the base: rock shoes on foot tapping hoping for another shot before dark. You want to smoke a bowl or drink some beers, pretty common and fine by me, stay in control and don’t get sparks on my rope or (more) glass on the ground is all I've ever asked. If you haven’t choked and blown spit on your screen due to my arrogance thus far, I’m driving from Beaverton and should be there @6 pm. Directions to Silver Bullet are thus: as John said: After 3 speed bumps the road bends slightly right and passes a big tan dome building. Park past the big tan dome building, @ 100 years before the hard right turn, and cross the road to the north into the woods and walk c. 100’ east paralleling the road. You should immediately pass a tunnel on your right that goes underneath the road, @ 20 steps further there is a trail that branches left, head left out to the cliff edge (another 25 feet or so) and you should be able to gaze down to some anchors below. (Going straight is a very safe and gentle walk to the bottom. You could curve around and meet up with folks below if you don't want to jump on the fixed line). Communication from the top to the bottom is very difficult. There is some white water rapids or something further below, and the continued roaring sound never abates and is very difficult to overcome. The hand signal for advising a belayer that you are over the edge, tied in safe and can be taken off belay is a wave of the hand for instance. Planning the hand signals in advance is a good idea. If my finger points down and makes a circular motion after I've topped out, that means please lower me. A fist means stop. Might want to clean some crap off so your trip up is cleaner, or perhaps reclimb a section that felt particularly great or difficult. As there is plenty of slippery wet mud, leaves and winter moss buildup, I suggest we tie off a fir and rap to the ledge below, set up the climbs and then rap the same line the rest of the way down. I rarely do this at this location, but this would be the time to rap IMO. It might be dry, but probably not. I have beater rope and don’t mind getting sap on it. You show up and see a light blue Maxim tied to a fir, feel free to rap on it, don’t ask permission. Side note: out here it's common to see a single party have 2, 3 or 4 climbs set up, tradition is that you can climb on their ropes. Nice to ask first. If you feel insecure on a single line rap and want a fireman’s belay, glad to do it, flip the rope around till some enquiring person at the base walks over below you and looks up, point or shout and we’ll pull on it to slow you down if you have a crappy rap device and/or hate single rope raps. Tossing an identical sized 2nd carabiner in most atc devices helps slow you down too. As this had been a active rock quarry, many of the anchors are into large blocks. We had a winter with some freezing; I always, but especially now, like to back up all the anchors with a backup rope tied solid to a fir or a rock further back. I have plenty of sections of retired ropes to do this. Bring your climbing ropes and personal gear, some lockers and such if you have it. Should be plenty of gear and ropes if you don’t own that stuff, so no worries. If you want to warm up bouldering, you might drive to the top and jump on some of the short man-made stuff up there. It's pretty good. Have fun, be safe, and see you tomorrow. PS, 2-4 is a great number of folks, I usually bag off if I see lots of cars and it's a big group, please don't be offended if that occurs. It's me, not you." ____________________________________________________ Side note to update, 2 weeks ago I was standing behind a guy who was busy yammering and not paying attention and did not see that the person right in front of him about to rap the rope had only run the rope through the rap device and a carabiner, it was not clipped onto the harness in any way. A quick throat clearing and "you might look at that again" was all it took, but had I been listing to that mindless yammering, instead of paying attention..... a lean back to rap would have been fatal...or ugly at the least. Reminder to all of us to pay the fuck attention. Even on easy ground.

On the very top, man-made walls.

I'll be there @ 5:45pm, feel free to show up anytime Bryan. If you're early, go boulder, if you're late just jump right in.

It's a lot like a train wreck that way, very entertaining. Marty, not bad, how about the next one has the Beverley Hillbillys song for a backdrop tune?

Yawwwnnnnnn: I think I already saw that recipe for Monkee on the Pirates forum.

Vertical Therapy is @ 20 right of Toothpick (11A/B) as you look at the wall. You'll get pumped on Toothpick, if not, I'll let you carry a 50 lb packpack to simulate what I'm experincing or ..."On the edge" is 15 feet left of that, it should be on your list of 12's. VT will be a good warm up so you don't blow any tendons.

Skip the gym I need a belay:-) This is for Tuesday .....right? (for today, try to touch base with Robert Bundy above) I killed the wasps over the weekend (I think) so Vertical Therapy is now available. Done that one? How about that offwidth next to Phylynx, that's good for a workout. Or anything you want is fine.

Anyone doing anything after work?

you beat me to it.

sort of: web page

Sorry dude, It's true I'm old: but I'm all about 3/8" now. No bolts, no 1/4" hand drill - BUT, I think I might still have some old 1/4 hangers at the bottom of my aid shitpile I could scrounge up if you need them.

Hi Wayne! It's heading that direction for sure. Should be ready next year. You have any info on Opal Creek?

I just invited you along on the Beacon thread. You around Aug 12-13th? Contingnet on my *cough* cough * wife's approval. Interested?

I'll admit that I've mellowed and am less strident. I'd like to think I've always tried to treat others well, even when I was young, but suspect thats not true. My comment wasn't meant to offend you or anybody, just teasing JH some. You into an Opal Creek Death march Aug 12-13th?

Let me be the first to flame you: "Cleaning will only encourage people to come out and climb em asshole." Hope that takes care of the obligatory Joseph flame for everyone.

Well if you guys talk as good as you climb there must be some serious routes getting kicked in the ass. I'd have wet dreams thinking of September and Granite. But I'll be stuck in Tibet staring at the North Face of Everest, so what the hell do I know about scheduling. Swear to God I'd rather be in Levenworth with ya all. Have fun !

Love to get any info you have Kevin. Thanks RBW, Shake Wayne awake and have him post something eh? . I don't have his number. Heck, I don't even have his ex-wife's number anymore. (joking Wayne, just a joke - whooaa big fella)

I'm looking to do something outback or unusual rarely climbed points beyond weekend of Aug 12-13. Anyone have any info on Opal Creek Wall ?

It's all good Mike, I mean ...as long as it's your pump that gets cut into! Nice to meet your lady too, she seems nice. Notice, I pussed out on killing the wasps. Got dark.

No, the book is wrong, always has been. First time I heard 12 was from a 5.13 climber who tried it. Try it and see. Then we'll talk. I use to be able to run up the thing. Not anymore. 12 for sure. Or I'm just old. And Fat. Just do hold elimations Sean. Use 1 arm or 1 foot. See you folks later. I have Wasp spray for huffing afterwards. Lets party.

Just a note: for the naysayers who don't do anything in the belief that fate is fixed and there is nothing you can do to effect change. 2 words: Madrone Wall. Just trripped over this letter: __________________________________________________________ Bill Coe xxxxx Portland, Or 97xxx July 5th 2005 Clackamas County Board of Commissioners Hon. Commissioners Bill Kennemer, Martha Schrader and Larry Sowa 2051 Kaen Road Oregon City, Oregon 97045 Re: Preservation of and Access to Publicly-Owned Madrone Wall Dear Board of Commissioners: I understand you are soliciting public input for your upcoming decision regarding the future of the Madrone Wall, and I wish to relay an economic reason why protecting that area will have a powerful economic enhancement to the Clackamas County people, and take a moment to say something about quality of life for current residents as well. When companies which to relocate or move into an area, many things are on it’s list of important criteria. High on the list for all companies are “What is the quality of life? ” And in addition to hiring qualified employees, can we also induce qualified employees to move into that area? Of the former, Clackamas comes out high on the list. Citizens of the country are generally well schooled and intelligent. Of the latter, for highly technical jobs of the kind Intel or Tektronix produce: quality of life is highly important. Currently Clackamas County has open spaces a plenty. Having lived in the area formerly, I saw, as you undoubedly have, many changeds in density and characteristics over the years. As the population continues to grows outwards, keeping and maintaining public parks and spaces is critical to maintaining the livability of the area, even if the econimic incentives were not there to entice future companies relocation choices. As such, protecting the Madrone Wall area for future generations of Clackamas County residents would greatly improve the quality of life, to help a bit in maintaining the rural and non-crowded feel to the area currently, and be a wise decision which your children and great grandchildren would thank you for generations from now. Sincerely, Bill Coe ___________________________________________________ Thanks to everyone who took a swing, but especially the Access Fund. My check is in the mail to those fine folks.

Bout friggan time. You still climb? I figured I'd done you wrong about sumptin and you were avoiding me like some of my old girlfriends till they get mace.

There's that 11 slab in the middle. 10c crack....ummmm, seriously I can't even spell 12. You need to get on WR Buttress Sean. see you tonight.

Silver Bullet, 5:45-6 pm bring ropes. Mike, Me, Mikes gurlfriend will be there.

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