Jump to content

billcoe

Members
  • Posts

    11895
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by billcoe

  1. $7K, whew! Dude we need to talk. I MADE both of our rings......Out of SILVER. Do you think it mattered to either of us? Nope.
  2. I only have @ an hour and a half Tue evening, showing up at approx 6pm, so for me, if I want to pick up garbage I'd just stay at home and clean the living room...... so I'll be climbing. Joseph, I think if you just wrestle it down to Skidmore to the fixed garbage can, I suspect that the PDX people will get to it eventually.
  3. You been talkin to my wife again? Its the internet. Like the Wild Wild West without any manners.
  4. Kevin, Rocky Butte Tue and/or Wed. real climbing. See Events thread. PS, I have a Misty Mountain Cadillac you can try if you want to show up. (Not for sale, it's new) You doing one or all of Gents classes? Say hi for me. _______________________________________________________ Oh, sorry, theres 2 bills here and that was for the other one. Dohhh.
  5. Shit, you not only don't even answer the thing: in fact didn't come close to answering the question, ya just come off sounding like a dick. Ya have to put a smiley face at the end if you are trying to be funny Carl, or it comes off wrong. Like this To answer your question, it's probably cause he's addicted to skiing and wants to maximise his experince. Thats my answer anyway, I'm looking to toss one into my quiver too. I already have a great ski for groomed trails, want something where the tip stays up in the wet slush and the width keeps me on top off trail. But thats my answer to your question anyway. ___________________________________________________________ Trying again: I want to see the answer to this question. I want to know what is a good Phat all mountain ski, and since some of you are experts and have researched the holy F*uck out of it, and probably tried 20 different demo models as well in all kinds of conditions, why the hell would I want to reinvent the wheel when I can just ask. Post away with the answers brothers....
  6. I love online stuff too, and these guys do online stuff as well: but for a harness, especially a wall harness - the fit is very important so you still have good movement AND comfort. It's best to physically try it on and hang as long as you can stand it. And why not support local climbers who have a kick-assed gear store ANDwho through many ways are supporting us? Like the last Rocky Butte cleanup, that was their beer and hamburgers we were eating and drinking. They didn't charge anyone a dime. I want to pay em back if possible.
  7. Picklejuice, good to meet you as well. I took so long to do my post (got interuppted by 5 games of ping-pong, it's pretty serious around here), that I didn't see your reply about Wednesday. Hope you can make it Tuesday?
  8. Tuesday will be great John. I'll be there at 5:50 pm approx. Great, we'll get a report - either one of of those areas will be good, but for early in the year, maybe silver bullet for some easier routes for out of shape folks, like your new improbable looking 5.7 one over there on the right of Fandango with the improperly spaced bolts. Thanks, I really appreciate the offer, but I have some cool people I live with that have priority for me over drinking with strangers, even if they're cool ones who climb hard. Appreciate the offer though. Maybe have em bring harness's and they can belay my old and fat ass up a 5.6, give em something different to laugh about for the next slideshow?
  9. Kevin: don't cheap out here, get thee to ClimbMax immediately and see Darren, Logan and the other dude. Buy new. Best chance to support these guys and you will also benefit. Put on the harness, hang from the roof, quite a while. Don't shortcut it. Repeat as necessary, you don't want to cheap out on this one Kevin (this is coming from the master of cheap) . I was shocked that my phyiology was such that it rejected a Black Diamond harness that looked IDENTICAL to a Misty Mountain. When I use to go hang all day in my Petzel, I'd have chaffing and bruises on my inner thighs. No more bruises. They've got a good selection of harness's you might like, the big Metolius safe tech, both the Misty Mt Cadillac and the Titan, plus a couple of Yates big wall harness's. Your balls will thank you later. The only true climbing shop in PDX, owned and run by climbers!) 928 NE 28th St. 1 blk N of Sandy Blvd _____________________________________________________ ps, I'll sell you my 10 year old Petzl Jump which I refuse to use any more . It's "Like new" but cheaper, and you don't have to break it in like a new one. Maybe sew a new loop on the front where the frayed, Todd Skinner style webbing is. (I got that "like new" off ebay, it was a "like new U-stem Camalot:-0) . It has been up a couple of walls. $45 $30. This is an true authentic Petzl harness, one of the top manufacturer of any climbing gear in the world. That may be it wrapped around my wide ass on the sig pic below, once again rubbing both sides of it against a multipitch chimney. I recently retired it. *shock* No returns if it squeezes your testicals when you are 14 pitches up on a sling belay.
  10. You can't go wrong on any of the choices. I'd go where my headspace would be best. Only you know how you feel on this. Yosemite has a times 9 better feel for goodness of heart than Smith for me, but if you don't have a campsite lined up in advance it can be real F*ed. Later summer Touleme. You could swing right by Donner summit/Lovers Leap on the way back and crank some classic lines.
  11. It's that time again: Sunset is approx 7:30pm which gives ME (it's all about me) an hour and a half at the Butte. So my special question is: Who wants to do Tue or Wed after work. Who's down with Tue OR Wed, or would you want Tues AND Wed? Show of hands and vote on the day (s). I want 1 day only, Tue prefered - but I think JFrieh is only available Wed, and I'll gladly trade off Tuesday so I climb with him. Both days are suppose to be OK, but they are talking 62degrees Tue and 68 Wed for the high temp.
  12. Well, I figured since Wayne was around back when and probably one of the few people strong enough to get up something like that, someone would have given him the beta and encouragement to do the route. It seems to me like it's been there for maybe 15-18 years...I'm not sure, but it seems like it's been there a long time. I've never even tried it as mono pocketed overhangs conflict with my fat ass and weak finger combonation. Figured it would be a recipe for meaningless tendon destruction for me, and really have to Sgt Schultz this one. (I know notzinggggg! ) didn't mean to sound too flippant on my first post. This is the only route I know of thats seen drilled holds. But of course about everthing out there has seen modifications, from trundling 500 lb death blocks, to nailing (so the cracks unintentionally get clean and turn into great fingerlocks ala Blackberry/WRabbit/Birds) and shoveling and scraping dirt out of the cracks (ever route out there) it all modifies the natural nature of the routes. I've done my share of all of that and the end result is that the place is a better place (IMO). Last think I'd want to see is some poor bastard take a ride to the ground hanging onto a 500 lb block which had been loose. Given some of the other crazyness out there, on a scale of 1-10 of things that piss me off or bother me, given the area, this isn't even on the chart. In an area where everything has been modified, someone (via a conventional ethical lapse) put up a damn difficult route which looks nice and stays dryer than the rest of the place. It appears that they didn't touch anything else out there before or after in this manner. Anyway, I suspect that a quick preview of the book will get you an answer. _______________________________________________________ Mike topos of this route are available for $10 $15 for you.
  13. OMG, that just sounds horrible. My advise is to keep looking for and to get his draws back. Monkey might have been just lying like some people do on the internet, maybe he never ever was in the area. He said, she said. Nobody should be messing with your buddies stuff, conversely, some people don't think you should be leaving stuff like that up except in rare occasions. I hope he gets it back. It's bullshit no matter what. __________________________________________________________ BTW Pope, they've done tests on real old draws - they are stronger than you think. This is the internet, search it out and you'll see it's the truth, this should get you started. Black diamond breaking tests OMG, Pagetop. Edited to add to POOP, hey dude, yeah, I'm talkin out my ass, anyone who knows me knows that just the way it is. So what? BTW, I clip all kinds of manky crap. Thats how I roll. Try to back it up...but sigh...sometimes....sometimes ya just have to slam in a couple of new bolts with the old Bosch Annilator....
  14. billcoe

    broken

    Nuff, thats strange that you break so easily. You have calcium deficits? Shit, I had to pull a small boulder off right down on my foot to break it. Then my buddy says "you heading out now? How bout a belay before ya go?" So I belayed.
  15. Yeah, I don't know, sorry. It's been that way for a long time. I suppose if you look it up in "Portland rock climbs" guidebook, the FA info in the back will tip you off. Interestingly, Gary and I did the line to the left about halfway up the wall on aid once.
  16. Steep and cheap snowlad. Mr Phil is right, but I couldn't resist. While I was out drinkin I missed the flow snowboard bindings too. &$#@()%
  17. Glad they did so well. This does, however, explain why I was the ONLY person (give or take 3) out climbing.
  18. Oh Oh, sounds like th fixed draws on the route inhibited the send and the sh*t is about to hit the fan? I thought for sure the 113# gorilla would have sent.... Stand back.... Wayne1112, can you field this one? Maybe Olsen. BTW Wayne, is the 1112 your birthday: ie 11-12.
  19. Maybe ya need to put the bong down and find the damn sheep. Get yer priorities straight will ya. baa
  20. God forbid we have to slow down our consumption eh?
  21. Seems like this fire burned out quickly.
  22. I hesitate posting this here for several reasons, but what the hell. www.steepandcheap.com has the higher end Toko Wax irons for only $45.95 and they have 235 left as of right now. If you want to hot wax yer skis and boards, this is an amazing price.
  23. billcoe

    the queens of spray

    OK, sorry, I was reflecting on the start of the threads title before it was changed to "Gods Lovely creatures", it was "Hot climbing Chics". I can pull all the pics if you want. Picklejuice and Knottygirl are (semi) regulars.
  24. Help, I got a f*cken hook sunk deep in my cheek and I'm being tractor-beamed in. Alpinemonkey, tell me it ain't so dude. Damn.
  25. OMG, uhhh, no. I'm being serious about that too.
×
×
  • Create New...