billcoe

I think JH is admirably sticking up for a few folks who feel more strongly than him on this issue but do not post online. However, I know what he is talking about in one aspect and it goes like this: I'll try and lay it out so that you all will understand it. Origonally, climbers would orally describe routes to each other, if at all. So in the early days, you'd have to walk up to a line and determine if YOU, could climb THAT line which you were staring up at. You might have heard of someone who had climbed it or knew someone who knew someone who had climbed it, or maybe not. It is a whole different vibe. In some ways better, in some ways not. I don't want to write the book on it right here. Different. -end of that rant- So in the spirit of friendliness and climber unity. I propose that all true climbers now call Beacon Rock "Nocaeb Kcor", shhhhh - which is Beacon spelled backwards to protect the magic and mystery of the place. Do I have a second?

Business partner got a travel trailer after his divorce and started running a long multi-woman trapline. Typically parked in the Elks parking lot, until the C.B. line started to form. He'd move the trailer and not leave a forwarding address after the flowers and cards would start showing up, but before the rabbit started cooking in the pot on the stove. Things to keep in mind. BTW, I have a nice condo in the Elliot which is a smokin deal. Great bachelor pad.

two rules: 1) Don't touch other people shit. Don't. It's not yours leave it alone. 2) Don't leave your shit laying around. Ropes, draws, garbage. It pisses some people off. You want to leave shit hanging in the gym, go ahead. 3) Don't fu*ck with the rope I left hanging out 2 weeks ago. It's a near new 16 fall 11mil Black Diamond. I left it out of laziness. I was sick. Sorry Dwayner. See rule 2. The extra rule: #3, was tossed in no charge to try and make some of you feel this was a full-value post and to help you not to get yer panties in a bunch.

Of course, but whats this, someone who actually reads the spray threads? I thought we were only suppose to post on this thread and not read others posts first. IE, using others as a guide this is what it appeared to be anyway. Bump

LOVE THE NEW AVATAR. IS THAT A NAKED ANNA NICOLE WITH A FLAG? HOUND, IT RULES. NOW I GOTTA CHANGE MINE.

Bill. Is this true? Are you mean? Sad but true. _____________________________________________________ BTW, couple more dry days and some of these yahoos will be getting out to the Butte, Broughtons and (later) even Beacon after Work! . Here's the link from last year, so keep an eye open for it, titled "PDX alpine anonmys" by John cause they were getting out and dry tooling. Giving good belays are the only mandatory requirement (like page 23 or so), so feel free to join in if that's you. PDX after work workout thread It's nice to have some fairly reliable days to stay in shape with some fairly nice folks too. About that mean thing, truthfully, I'm only mean to Brian (Powderhound) cause I expect so much from him and because he's such a friggan good climber. And strong. And young. And good-looking. And smart. And nice. Dudes got the whole package. My wife and daughter coo and purr when he stops by my house after work to go climbing. It's pretty sickening.:-) They sit on the steps and preen trying to look good for him. Pretty soon I expect he'll have more money than me too, so I'm not even too mean to him really. If I was too mean to anyone else, I'd expect to get some shit belays, and everybody gives me good belays, so maybe it's not really true.

Sneaky arent you! Whoa, pretty sneaky Matt - ya almost got snowed by me there. Glad it wasn't one of the other super secret areas I'm putting up new routes in. Whew, that was close.

Yeah, just teasing ya Brian. My wife accuses me of being a smart ass all the time. It's just my way. I'm pretty harmless really. Are you a new climber or just new to the site? Welcome to the site either way.

TITLE EDIT.

When does this come out? Can you describe it? _________________________________________________ I am only guessing here: comes out "soon". Described as "fantastic". You are welcome. Bone, wasn't the title of your post DONE? As one definition (Miriam Webster dictionary says, "to come to or make an end : ".

So much for the dudes vow of secrecy. Tom Frost rules.

check spray

Nailed that on the cams. BTW, to flesh it out some more, add a set of wired nuts or 2(I like DMM as they are the lightest/strongest-others like BD/Smiley or Wild country), and the 4 larger hex sizes in either BD/Chouinard or Wild Country-I'd buy the hexes and nuts used, for sure. Buying the sets sounds good, but you wind up with more small nuts than you can stand. My first gear purchased were some carabiners and the 5,6 and 7 Chouinard Hexes (had to sling my own rope) to flesh out a buddies rack for a local route. 1972. Still have them. Still use em all the time for setting up Toperope routes. Nuts/hexes work signifigantly better to TR where you don't have bolts cause they stay put. I still carry hexes on some routes at Smith (like White Satin and Trezler, where the constrictions take a hex better than a cam. That is rare for granite though.

Arch, I think the "later" part indicated he would in fact, be back "later". Which must be now. Kev's back! BTW, He posts better climbing pics than 90 percent of you here, I think you should consider that when you're talking smack on the guy. Ie, dissing on him or his bad or weak posts may be easy, but his good posts are better than your good posts. I include myself in that statment as well 'cause I have so few pictures or TR's, but I'm trying to turn that around and you who live in spray should consider that as well.

Wayne don't lie. _________________________________________________________ Kev, you're back! Thought you were a gonner. BTW, can I borrow your Beacon topo?

yeh yeh yeh JH, now get in line with the rest of the hosers who didn't want it to be done to buy yours. You know the rest of those guys will all have one soon. :lmao:

Thank Jim!

too much snow. fer sure.

Dan, I forgot all about the Great Roof on Brogan. We use to go do laps on it when it rained (this was all nuts-before cams)......all the friggan time. I forgot all about it. Probably been 20 years. It most likely has some big, shiney new bolts on it too as what's her name just freed it like a year ago or so. Bubbas on Picnic lunch wall.

Good to hear you did a U-turn on the road to hell. What happened Oly?

Bring back some pics and a TR though for those of use who don't get out and just walked in the rain and/or did a ski run or 2 this weekend. Even if you just repeat the Pioneer route again. OK? Thanks...........enjoy- I suspect you'll like any Monkey route you jump on.

AT Smith, I think all the long routes that summit Monkey Face are great. Maybe the best in the state that I've tried. Like Frank said, Beacon has some great lines too but you'd have to sit in the rain and stare at them for 3 months till it opens. Doing the East Face of Monkey clean would be more likely to see a grounder happen than any of the other Monkey routes, but it is much more interesting as well. If it's cold, the West Face is always good but your partner only gets a bolt ladder if you get P 1. The N face and NW passage are great and might be warm enough is you wear a coat or it's a warmer day. My personal fav is the N face started from the east face ledge but I find that I get on the West Face about twice as often. This may only be due to laziness, too lazy to walk around the thing. Th N face has the bolts down low, can be broken into 2 pitches (the traditional, regular length rope way) and has the interesting nutting up high where its safe and not a chance of hitting the deck. You can free the gym moves at 11B or aid bolts to the summit from the neck cave and there are 2 separete lines now for both, if you are freeing, clip the ones on the left. I think on a good day you could do 3 of those lines on the same day and finish the day pretty beat too. Maybe not right yet cause daylight is at a premium still. I want to take a shot at that maybe this year to see how it would go. Maybe the East, North and West faces in a day would be good. There are a couple of routes on Steins piller which can be safely aided you'd most like find interesting as well.

I've been suffering some serious back pain and have not even been able to sit in front of the computer. Yesterday I had an MRI and started a dose of steroids so, as long as the steroids hold anyway, I may be able to post here. Steroids? WTF? Matt, assuming the MRI turned up nothing, check this: No steroids needed

Pink probably bumps into CG as they live fairly close to each other. I've never met him, but to me, CG was what was wrong with climbing in the 80's. Some people trying to rap bolt a hard line, much to the anger of the old guard, and then milking the controversy which follows for PR and to make themselves famous and rich. I suspect CG is probably a pretty good guy once you get past his reputation.

........without the 'bone, they quickly turned on each other......tearing and ripping each other.....