billcoe

Sorry, I have images turned off for solicitation emails. Went back and looked: Photo by John Frieh Do I get multiple guesses now? :-) Nice John:-) BTW, I tried to put it here and couldn't. Hmmm, need to brush up on my shitty posting skillz I suppose.

Some news from Climbaxe: (they sent it via email and I'm sharing). "And now the moment you’ve all been waiting for.........drum roll please...... IT’S A BOY!!! On May 8th, Kristen and Darren welcomed Kenneth Wolfgang Stone into the world at a whopping 7 lbs 4 ounces. We are pleased to announce the arrival of a beautiful, healthy baby boy to the Climb Max crew! YOWEE!!! We would also like to announce the arrival of some new lines that we have picked up in the shop: Acopa climbing shoes (John Bachar’s brainchild), Dahlgren alpaca socks (yes! So nice and warm and no pilling!), and NAZ climbing holds (made by our local boys in Salem!). Also, come on in and check out our climbing shoe sale. We’ve got a variety of La Sportivas, Mad Rocks, Montrails, and Five Ten shoes on sale for $30 or $60. You may be surprised with a screaming deal on your favorite pair of shoes! We finally have set the dates for this summer’s four Climb Max evening clinics. The clinics are open to anyone who would like to attend, free of charge. Clinics will start at 7 pm here at the shop and will be held outside (dress appropriately for weather). After each clinic we will have the shop open for special deals on any equipment featured that evening. Please mark your calendars for the following nights: Thursday, June 21st Thursday, July 19th Thursday, August 23rd Thursday, September 13th The topics covered will be: “Escaping Belay,” “A0, Climbing Bolt Ladders,” “Proper Clipping Techniques for the average Sportster,” and “Anchors 101.” (Sorry, we have not yet figured out the order for these topics, but we’ll keep you posted). Here’s a look at what’s happening in the community… Arno Ilgner is coming to town to do a slideshow and some clinics: The Warriors Way: The Power of Mental Training, sponsored by the Mazamas. The slideshow will be held on Wednesday, May 16th from 7 - 9 pm at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. There will be a suggested donation of $10 at the door with proceeds going to the Access Fund. Don’t miss out on the raffle prizes! Two local clinics with Arno Ilgner will be held at Club Sport fitness center on Sunday, May 13th and Wednesday, May 16th from 12 - 4 pm for $65 per person. There are six spaces available for each session so please sign up early. A clinic will also be held out at Smith Rock on Monday and Tuesday, May 14 -15 from 9 am - 4 pm for $199 per person. Only six spaces will be available. Transportation, food, and lodging will not be provided, so please plan ahead. For more information on Arno’s visit please visit: http://www.mazamas.org/." There was more if anyone wants it, now go get some Acopas:-)

I saw that as well Blake. As part of the new QC measures which they instituted, they most assuredly said that they would tensile test each unit before it leaves the factory. The cables never have had an issue, it was manufacturing of the cams at the CCH plant and poor QC that was the issue all along. Perhaps they really are only testing the cables, they do show that process on the site, and not the testing of the units. BUT, I remember them saying they would tensile test, and mark each unit as such, before it left the factory. It looks like the Purple unit was not stamped "tensile tested". From the CCH website: "It has been recently reported to CCH that the main cable broke on an Alien. We were e-mailed photos of the cam, however it isn't possible to make any conclusions from a photograph. We have asked the individual to forward the cam to a certified metallurgist for analysis, as of today April 27th, 2007 it has not yet been received by the lab. We will post the results as soon as we receive them from the metallurgist. ....................... Its been over a month since the Souders Crack incident. No report has been issued from a metallurgist that we are aware of. Only analysis of the piece by a lab can begin to answer all the questions and speculation that exist, we hope a report will be issued soon."

That was last time Jmace. These 2 Aliens which fell apart are both POST RECALL. ie, they were supposed to be correctly made and tensile tested before leaving the factory. From the site: "The window of the recall was 11-04 to 12-05, thus any Alien cams date coded during this period should be tested, dimpled or not. " One was a Yellow, one was a purple. BOTH WERE RECENTLY MFG. AND WERE SUPPOSE TO BE TENSILE TESTED UNDER THE NEW QC PROTOCALL YET FELL APART ANYWAY they have dates later than the recall dates. The purple has a tensile test of 3500 lbs, how do you suppose that it missed the testing? Damn this shit is getting old. How long till some poor bastard looses his life cause of these MF slackhounds? ??

Heres 2. #1 - if you are going to ride my ass at least pull my hair. #2) (Tagged on a large SUV) I SUCK ARAB GASS. the G was a lighter color, so it read like "I SUCK ARAB ASS"

Neither one of us really knows Kev, but I can say that it took a couple of hours to get to that point where I stopped to pee, and it was someplace in Skamania County, Wa. When we finally got back to the main dirt road, we were amused to see 3- 4 x 4 trucks with trailers unloading those little ATV's to head up the road we were coming down. They all stopped and stared as we drove by.

Yes, they tell me that I dented the shit out of the oil pan and slamming it down has created a leak on the seal for the torque converter. They want $990 to fix it. (probably not on this trip) I should have posted a pic of some of the rocks we crawled over. I know the oil pan is good as I changed my oil last weekend and it wasn't leaking. (It's how I saw the other leak) I'm driving to Yos tomorrow with 2 others and packed to the gills, should be interesting. PS, thats Rats old A5 haul pack in the back seeing another adventure in case anybody here knows him. That things almost as old as Jim.

A horror story which involves coming back from a road trip and seeing that the the F*ucken cows ate all the plants, which had small finger diameter stems at that stage. You mean like that?

Which is the recommended method of belaying Ivan as well when he's leading at his limit Blake.

Back on top, 2 recent failures in 2 different states, sad to say these are POST "we fixed the issue's" Aliens. 1 dude got mess up bad.

link to the link

Link to Supertopo One poster on RC.com posted a failure which lead to a fall that resulted in a near fatality. On the Supertopo thread discussing that failure of what was a new, Non-Dimpled Alien, there was a brand new report by reputable folks of a Purple (should test to 3500 lbs) failure, no injury. This just sucks. Big.

If Tim Braun still runs Portland Parks and Rec, he'd be the guy to approach with this. #1 dude, real good guy, if we could get him behind something.....? Ideas? thoughts? Approaches? I don't think suggesting drilling into the Interstate bridge will fly by the engineers. I had an old climbing buddy who said that there was hot and cold running heart attacks in the engineering dept over there after they had built the friggan Fremont Bridge (I-405): no one had run a design simulation of what would happen if, during below freezing temps, an accident happened and traffic came to a wall to wall standstill ON THE BRIDGE. Too much weight and too cold as it turns out: and it would collapse is what they determined one cold winter long after it was built. Total failure. Fit and Retro-fit were sitting on a fence, Fit fell off: RETROFIT. Kind of like when they build that fancy Expo center with the acres of pretty glass. No design accomodation for how they were to get up there and clean it. RETROFIT! So I wouldn't think you'll get to drill holes into the thing, even itty bitty 3/8 or 1/2 diameter. But......

Kirby, is that you? Hey, the Railroad built one for us in Lake Oswego. In the fine tradition of "if you bolt it they will come, and come they did". BTW, the center right route only has 1 good bolt for the anchor in case you're over that way with a drill and a bolt. John can give you the "tour de frieh" if you need directions. BTW, I always figured that Salem would be a canditate for this, and I think someone told me that they had built something?

REI link You can buy the entire draw for signifigantly cheaper than you can get 2 carabiners. $9.93/ea Going fast, currently they have the Heliums and the Eclipse for lightweight stuff. Edit: going fast, Only the short DMM Eclipse are left.

"Then the Eiger birds start flocking in"

You make salient points Ivan. However, the unknown is would the Nazis had gone down that road at all if they had faced more than a unarmed, peaceful, non-resistance? ? Hmmm ? It is but one example of what I am discussing. The one with guns gets to make the rules. The rule in China is no dissent. Which would include arresting you for this very discussion (OK, maybe me, not you) or unfurling a banner with a few words on it requesting freedom. ___________________________________________________________ To anyone interested in the warsaw uprising and the handful of Jews who scrounged some weapons and held off the German army for a brief moment in time: "In the summer of 1942, about 300,000 Jews were deported from Warsaw to Treblinka. When reports of mass murder in the killing center leaked back to the Warsaw ghetto, a surviving group of mostly young people formed an organization called the Z.O.B. (for the Polish name, Zydowska Organizacja Bojowa, which means Jewish Fighting Organization). The Z.O.B., led by 23-year-old Mordecai Anielewicz, issued a proclamation calling for the Jewish people to resist going to the railroad cars. In January 1943, Warsaw ghetto fighters fired upon German troops as they tried to round up another group of ghetto inhabitants for deportation. Fighters used a small supply of weapons that had been smuggled into the ghetto. After a few days, the troops retreated. This small victory inspired the ghetto fighters to prepare for future resistance. On April 19, 1943, the Warsaw ghetto uprising began after German troops and police entered the ghetto to deport its surviving inhabitants. Seven hundred and fifty fighters fought the heavily armed and well-trained Germans. The ghetto fighters were able to hold out for nearly a month, but on May 16, 1943, the revolt ended. The Germans had slowly crushed the resistance. Of the more than 56,000 Jews captured, about 7,000 were shot, and the remainder were deported to killing centers or concentration camps." It may seem to you to be ancient history, but it is not. You are paying, with your taxes. to hunt down Nazis still, to this very day. In my opinion, many of you are much too trusting of people who have violated too many trusts to be trusted. I'll go with what the framers wanted to try and balance and check that power at least a bit, which may in fact make all the difference.

Ae you suggesting we are going to have to wait for dinner? Or can we just come over now? Planting a garden is a good feeling which unfortunately conflicts with my climbing time, another good feeling. I was out yesterday helping the wife dig weeds to prepare, I don't like that.

Are you stuttering?

I wanna wait to see how Kevbone answers this before I even try and take the question on. Not that I really understand what in the hell you're saying, but I've only read it 3 times so far.

There was a study which indicated a slightly higher level of prostrate cancer with those who had vasectomies, but it was later learned not to be accurate.

Not as fucking stupid as somebody who would bring that to the table. Screw you. If it makes you feel any better, I used the term "retarded" rather than "stupid." I guess I was edited or something. Well it does...thats too funny! You must have the PC thought police on yer ass Dt.

Not as fucking stupid as somebody who would bring that to the table. Screw you. These are deeply held beliefs which I feel very strongly about. I believe in letting others live as they see fit. That means nutjobs don't get guns, and if and when they do and they act up, they do not get second chances like the last jackass in Oregon who after getting out of prison for serving 8 years for murdering 2 women (when they caught him sexually molesting their son), then proceeded to murder like 4 or 5 more young adults after sexually molesting them(remember lil Adam from the back of the milk cartons?) and by his admission, sexually molested an estimated 75 more very young children whom he did not kill but would have like too. They probably would have let him live with another life sentance as there was a huge outporing of people who thought that this poor lost soul should get still another chance, except the dude stepped up, declared of those who wanted him to get a 2nd chance idiots, and proclaimed that he needed to be put down as he couldn't control it and would kill again.

First, agree only that nut jobs should be restricted. Fer sure. When I was up working at the VA Hospital, I worked with some Section 8s (ie "Nutjobz" in Ivan parlance) on and off here and there for almost 4 years. No arguement. Concerning the rest of your arguement. Nope. The oppression of subhumans was in full swing........note these 2 words: 2 words for the graduate. Warsaw Getto. Never forgive, never forget. Life free or die.