billcoe

I just bought the last deal that floated through here (think that was you too Hemp, thanks !!) They were $59 and $69 and the damn things, for some types of routes, absolutely rule IMO. There has been a report of 1 linkcam having the rivets fall out (with no falls or stress placed on it) posted on RC.com. Linkcam people are all over examining it. If you only have scratch to buy 1 of the sizes, the #2 is the way to go.

Not....for me.

Ypu've never taken a highball bouldering fall Commando style/sans crashpad I'd bet, or you get and keep those fellas snugged up good and tight. I'm not kidding. Anywhoooo, commando is a young mans game.

The longegevty is shit. Check Josephs thread on dynema slings. Same thing on ropes. I apologise as I read this somewhere earlier, then couldn't find the link for you, but I thought it was one of the Black Diamond fellas who did a test on one of his old lines and the results displaying the weakness of that rope were nothing short of shocking.

Washinton, the real one, not DC.

I thought you could take a left on Big Lou lane and drive straight down the Fred Beckey Memorial highway directly to it?

God I love Granite. _________________________________________________________________ That was my lead: I remember thinking of what a Mensch Robbins was to show up in shit (by our standards) shoes, a heavy rack of pins and a hammer, and just did it anyway.

Got out but my crack climbing skills sucked so bad I was trying to forget about it. Unless you enjoy hearing how big of a wussie I am.

I have. ____________________________________________________________ BTW, Sean can confirm the flake size in this story, he and I spent part of a day cleaning around a smaller version of the flake you described (basalt). It made for what looked like decent pro behind it, but I never fell on it. I was out there with Ujohn a while later and he noted a big assed loose block right on route. I went out there later by myself, (new route) kicked that block (approx 2' x '2 x 3 feet high) off with my toe while on rappel. It hit the flake, it peeled off and went too: then the whole thing swept the face. It would have killed anyone underneath. If you can rap down with a crowbar.....

Nice TR Mike, thanks for sharing - love the pics to, great exposure in them.

Are you going to trash and burn the snowcats in the Mt Hood wilderness area next? Just to clarify: no one would complain if a hand drill was used to replace the bolts?

There were 37,000 nailgun injuries which required emergency room visits last year.

What does "Hair Pie" (assuming I understand the translation) have to do with this?

Well, I for one wanted to get on it and shouldn't have put it off. I don't feel like JH or RDawg. I suspect it's (was) a pretty good route. But, Kev, anyone who feels they can toss a bolt in somewhere they have no ownership too should also be aware that the next person has as as much, or more, right to yank it right out for the same (and additional) reasons. For some, the "Graffti" is the bolts themselves and the cure is to remove em. Not climbing the route makes it no less of an affront to them. JH, I was hoping the steep upper slabs still have bolts, if not, that could be real, real, spicy. To say nothing of the effects of not summiting and leaving a shitload of gear to get off. Does one bring a handdrill for that eventuality. Is putting in a handdrilled bolt to replace an origonal bolt a bad thing to you? Given how you feel about the bolts and all.... doing the lower part with gear will only get you to the upper bolted parts which you still find objectionable. I'm assuming that the first 5 pitches were the only ones affected. I would not want to participate in pulling any bolts and climbing it on gear, but to climb the route and hope it is possible to find the origonal bolts on the difficult upper part. It may not be possible - unfortunatly.

Troll... Go find out for yourself, buddy. Route doesn't exist anymore. The route exists even if you peeled some bolts. Ken4ord, Nolse and I will go try it on gear here soon enough I expect.

See, I was telling ya all this on the third post. It was just a matter of time until a grownup showed up and reinforced it:-) Happy pissing on each other. Strange that I really don't find myself agreeing with about anyone here. Later Bill

This thread is like a kickintthenuts nightmare. You dudes are saying that 50 is old, I'm 52 but not old. Check my pic over to the left if you are a doubter. It feels like a very difficult and tenuous position. I wonder when old really is? I think Fred is old. I'm not. Old is.....old is....well, it's somewhere else isn't it? So there

PM sent. LMAO!

Tell me you're just trolling for Joseph again.... aren't ya?

Yup, everybody is "tough" till they have to step up and squeek out their real name: so keep yer eye out for an anonomys large hulking angry gay climber guy coming up behind ya and eyeing your ass and yer ponytail.

I'd definitely be the man in that little escapade. I can see it now, pulling on his stupid pony tail. He's screaming "oh, harder, harder! Deeper deeper!!" Holy mother of ch***t, so it is true what they say about Alaskans!!? Damn......

If you're so bummed about the scene up here, why don't you fuck the hell off? All you've done as far as I can see is come up here, talk shit about folks who don't have it coming, burn bridges with the best mountaineering group up here, spend all your time talking shit on some forum, climb a few halfway decent lines and pretend you're some sort of god for doing so, and then get indignant when folks don't want to climb with you. Trust me artard, it ain't because there's a lack of serious climbers up here, its because people hate your mother-loving guts and won't give you the time of day 'cause of all the shit you talk all the goddamn time. Maybe if you stopped talking nonstop shit, you'd find more partners and less people who'd love to beat your ass. Or maybe you could go back to the Tetons and stay the fuck out of AK. Bitch. Please, don't hold back. What are you really trying to say? I'm sensing hostility.

Holy shit thats a spicy meatball! Thanks for doing that one so I can vicariously enjoy it from the comfort of home and thus save my weak ass for something more sane:-) GRREEEEAAATTTTT TR and love that photo sequence Frosty!

Nahhh uhhh, CBS really stands for Crazy Bitch Syndrom, my brothers wife has it thats how I know all this. I'm not going near anyone with CBS, sorry. End of that story Willis. Wall

You'd think you could do something of great interest and importance with those expensive programs like make my dick be a true 6" instead of the sad 1-1/2 reality shows it to be". BTW, I bought both of those programs and was very unhappy with the results.