billcoe

SUMMATION I hope that helps salvage the thread for you fellas.....

Holy crap, victim is still alive after 80 percent of his face was ripped off by this douchbags teeth.

My little brother crated up and shipping a jingle pedi-cycle home form Nepal for my big bro. Had the pictures of Bollywood movie stars and everything. Big hit in LaGrande with all the rednecks ...Not. LOL. I think the damned thing crated up weighed like 700 lbs. Glad all is well Sobo! Keep them coming, we all love to see whats up, even if we may be speechless. Denali Dave: funny stuff!!!!

Excellent post DPS. Bingo. And avoid injury while doing it. Trust me on this: "TODAY IT'S YOUR KNEES TOMORROW IT'S SOMETHING ELSE". Really. In his book, Mike Layton gives some great workout things to consider, but he specifically advises avoiding the classic sitting leg extension on the universal machine, and overhead press which we all do. Avoiding injuries should be our #1 goal (I'm injured and not climbing today due to a banana peel slip on snow 14 mo ago, I didn't fully recover and then I reinjured it in Yosemite @ a week ago being stupid doing things I knew would reinjure it - ie aid climbing) this one: I give what he says great credence, but it's easy, fast and measurable: so what I do is not stress (go all out) when on that machine. Use of a trainer who climbs or a good book should be incorporated as part of any training you do. John Frieh and folks like that are walking examples on how the use of crossfit and exercise should be to strengthen so as to avoid injuries while climbing. As a practicing armchair internet hack with no credentials other than being exactly where you are today (only more like at age 30) I'd recommend seeing a doctor. It's possible that a simple surgery may fix it. If that's out of the question: I'd suggest you cease the activity which causes the hypertension immediately as it will only get worse, strengthen the joint via a long and carefully examined well structured strength training program, and gradually re try it. Maybe some real experts will weigh in. Dr Laytons book: http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Stronger-Faster-Healthier-Beyond/product-reviews/1439231982/ref=cm_cr_dp_see_all_btm?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1&sortBy=bySubmissionDateDescending Damn, good luck.

Exactly, but I'm sure we both disagree with the idea. It's wrong and something I'd condemn, however, of all the wrong things to get outraged and worked up all red in the face over in the world (political, financial, warfare, etc etc) this is near the bottom of the pile. Oh, Dwyaner, re. your tirade on bolts, next time I do Crest jewel in Yosemite (did it last week via Royal Arches approach), I want you leading. Finding those "3" special bolts on a full pitch on a big route, where they are all but invisible until you are feet away, makes you long for more of them -not less: wilderness or not.

Got to be one burly confident dude to ski corn moguls buck naked. A wipe out would be excruciating.

2nd ascent in progress and calls the style of the FA into question: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1827613/Look-Out-Danger-Or-Look-Out-Weak-Sauce

YEAH - THAT LYING SAC OF SHIT, WHAT ROUTES DID HE PUT UP ANYWAY?

Good on you for reporting it. I was figuring Lost Cam Kenny would fill this void and step up with a post, as I understand that he loses cams everywhere. A guy could make a career following him and just racking the lost cams I've heard. Seriously, nice good deed. Not mine but I wish I was out climbing there.

Can I gets me the free gear if I post hear?

Holy shit that worked out for you! Whens the retirement partaaaayyy? Any and all unemployed lawyers will be jumping on Morgan Stanley and JP Morgan now in what will be one of the biggest shareholder lawsuits ever seen. They changed horses mid-stream. Which is illegal as it turns out. Down another 5% today.

Crikies- lookin good. I remember hiking through that area years back after a soft winter, camping at Pamilia Lake and realizing to my horror that in order to go light: I had forgone my fishing pole, whereas the catch limit at the lake was 45 trout...and everyone seemed to be limiting. Compare to June 2010 in the background, Haydar and Shaun representin: Shaun sporting the Cilogear Hauly

Can't add much to that! ...maybe...?

The Dmm Bugette weighs about what a piece of light tinfoil does and works that size. (7.5mm min) http://www.amazon.com/DMM-Bugette-by/dp/B000T034ZE When I bought my 9.1 I bought 2 and clipped them to the rope bag. Since then, other devices are able to handle that sized rope better. The newer BD ATC guide has the autolocking thing, for instance, and is an excellent device which goes down to 7.7mm http://www.amazon.com/Black-Diamond-ATC-Device-Assorted/dp/B000T9FBEM/ref=sr_1_sc_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1337606506&sr=1-2-spell

Regardless of the issues, I'd like to see the schools continue and expand. It's cheap, effective and powerful juju. As far as this: Krakauers earlier attacks and lies against Anatoli Boukreev, no matter if written in ignorance or ineptitude, were enough for me to never be too concerned with believing his integrity and truthfulness of his later stories. I think you can still read and enjoy them, but as far as them being truthful...uhhh. No. regards to all:

Closest to PDX with bolt clipping even in marginal weather is probably Broughtons Bluff or Ozone. Both have some descent gear routes too and are real close since you only have 1 day.

That put a smile on my face. Thanks for sharing it Rudy! It was enjoyed:-)

meh, they lost me at

Awesome is utilized too much these days, but that's awesome! Thanks for sharing it with us. Wow!

Meh, it least it appears he can afford a nice shop vac.....sayin' that "manually" is in his rear view mirror now and he's entered the modern age.... take care all....

It's like this classic song Bryan. Older than dirt perhaps, still germane. Hope the info was useful. [video:youtube] More: Oly sent this in the 60's TILT!!!! Tilting the camera to make it look hard has been happening for years. Hey Lucky G -sorry dude, it's just a big MFing ground squirrel that wants to be a gopher when it grows up and it's sayin', "I sent that RIGHT after I built it beotches!" Shhhh, secret Oregon project, still virgin:-)

Oh, one more thing you should know. REI has 20% off coupons. So $95 is actually high $70 something. LOL, not doing the math and don't remember.

Hey Wastrel, I'm not fully sure what you are saying about going to Napa. Do they have some kind of ulta-light bearings with the concave we all like so that the rope tracks in it? And we should go get that? It weighs less than 2oz? Can you post a link and a picture of this so the rest of us can get up to speed. As far as your statement that you can't be backing off one of these in a Z-pulley situation, why couldn't you just pull the rope a fraction of an inch up and easily just release the cam to lower so that your buddy doesn't get his head whacked on the lip of the crevasse, as you say? I will admit I just got mine and have only used it 2 times, neither to pull a dude out of a crevasse:-)...hopefully never have too...but I didn't even try to set it up for that either. Why can't you release just the cam? I'm not clear on that either. Have you actually used this? Seem to me that the friction you'd get would be crazy high. To the point where you'd just unrope and leave yer buddy stuck upside down in the crevasse. If that's the case, it might be better to map out a route that doesn't involve any big crevasses and leave all this junk at home? Or be like John Frieh and go so fast (and light) over them that the crevasses don't feel yer weight:-)

LOL, like Frank Sacherer in aggro mode. The story goes: "On one occasion he was way above Beck's belay stance without a single intermediate piton. Beck anxiously called up to him to put in a piton. Sacherer spat back, 'Shut up, you chicken sh#t.'" Or on yelling at Tom Gerughty who had been climbing for about a month and was trying to follow him up "Crack of Despair" in Yosemite: "GERUGHTY, IF YOU STEP ON THAT BOLT I'M GONNA PULL YOU OFF GODDMANIT". BTW, you handled that great. I use to love to fight. But as you age, you learn it gets much more serious than on the schoolyard, and you are but inches or moments away from serving a life sentence in the penitentiary. It makes you tend to reevaluate. And it gets there quickly. It is (hopefully) likely that this guy will hear about his horrible behavior from his buddies, and the next time he sees you he will feel both grateful and happy that you acted as you did in not kicking his ass.

We are all picking option C Rob: you have the reading skillz of a 3 year old.