billcoe

"When you ride your bike, you're working your legs, but your mind is on a treadmill. When you play chess, your mind is clicking along, but your body is stagnating. Climbing brings it together in a beautiful, magical way. The adrenaline is flowing, and it's flowing all the time." — Pat Ament.

[video:youtube] The Beer Bike is coming to America! "Those crazy Dutch. Not only do they have hash bars and street urinals, they also have "beer bikes." Amstel Light's contraption is essentially a rolling bar that includes a working tap when stationary. After the 8-10 riders have had their fill of their light beer, they must peddle in unison to get the beer bike rolling. (Not an easy task, one would think.) The bikes are part of the brand's continued effort to "bring a taste of Amsterdam to America" under its "One dam good bier" campaign. Fortunately, there is a driver on board who steers the vehicle and who presumably hasn't had any imported beer or hash." Mmmmmmmmmmm....beer....mmmmmm

I don't. Looking at Justin Thibault's (Choada Boy) continual attack posts that never have any logic, address the issue or are on topic, I just figured he must be too stupid to formulate thoughts of his own which make sense and are well argued and on topic and perhaps he's just plain mentally fucked up so this is his plea for attention. In either case, I decided to ignore him like most others on this site. Regards

What Joseph says about corporate sponsorship is true. She could be thinking all kinds of nasty, interesting things, and not say a word outside of the platitudes we hear for fear of loosing a sponsorship deal. What Jayb says is right on with Pat Ament, except some of his stuff is pretty good...it was the best of times, it was the worst of times. Her freesolos are still an amazing thing.... one loose rock falling down from above or a pulled hold...whew.

I was thinking of the time I was at the end of pitch 2 of Warriors and you free-soloed through via the Corner and you had a rope over your shoulder and a full rack in your backpack....I offered for you to join us but you declined. Piles of dead kittens heh heh

Only if I have a rope, unlike some:-)

Amazing, who was it and did he expain why he'd leave stuff at Carver?

I thought this was on the money Off. Perfect as Fuck as they say. Only adding that once I've either TR or led a route, for me, it's usually at least as enjoyable, perhaps even more as the rack and weight gets paired down, to go lead it again (as long as it wasn't a pants filling moment the first time). I love Young Warriors and SE Corner at Beacon as much now as ever, for instance. Sure, I know what pro to bring now...and still sort of forget...but it's all good.

Oh man, nailed it!!

Huh?!!! I thought she was a virgin still?

There's an account of Mozy below I copied and pasted which makes it look fairly poor at restoring. " { 2009 03 19 } Mozy: Great, Until You Need to Restore This is the second and final part of my account of my experiences with the on-line backup service offered by Mozy. The first part is here. As I related in my last Mozy-related post, I started using the on-line backup service in late 2007, and all went reasonably well at first. The initial backup took well over a month, but — once it was complete — it was a great load off my mind to know that I had 30 gigabytes worth of photos, music, personal and work-related documents, and applications and settings saved remotely. My data was protected against both machine failure and — because my data was spread out all over Mozy’s servers — theft, fire, or tsunamis. Then my hard drive failed. I had Computer ER, a computer-repair shop here in Missoula, replace it with a new one, and looked ahead to restoring my files quickly and easily from my Mozy backup. There are several methods of restoring from a Mozy backup, but the company’s tech support told me that the ideal method for my situation was what is called a “web restore” (i.e., downloads, as opposed to using the Mozy application on the desktop, which didn’t seem able to find all of the files I had specified for backup). I signed onto the Mozy web site and began my web restore. I selected the files that I wanted restored (which turned out to be far from all of them) and submitted my request. In a few hours, I received an email from Mozy indicating that my requested files were now available for download. Following the link, I found a web page with about seven downloadable files, each named something like “download 1” and each containing about 1 GB of data. I also learned that these downloads would only be available for seven days, at which point I would need to start the web restore process over from scratch. Over the next few days, I downloaded all of the seven files, which turned into “disk image” files on my desktop. These had names like “restore_2009_02_27_17_23_572237.dmg”; when I expanded these files, they generated “mounted disks” with names like “345802.2.dmg.” As I explored the various mounted disks, I discovered that fully five of them contained a folder named Documents, none of which were complete. * One version of Documents contained the subfolder “writing” but nothing else; another version of Documents contained a version of “writing” and several other subfolders, etc. * My Documents subfolder “Clients” was available in several versions, none of which contained all of my original Clients subfolders. * In turn, one version of my Clients folder would contain the subfolder for a given client but only some of the completed projects that should have been in that folder; the rest were scattered across several other versions of the Clients folder, in turn contained within several versions of “writing,” within several versions of Documents, etc., ad nauseam (and I do mean nausea). What all of this meant was that I could not easily drag and drop the contents of the restored files back into the proper locations on my hard drive. If I dragged Documents from one mounted disk onto the hard drive, the next version of Documents I dragged in would erase the first one. I couldn’t even drag and drop the first level of subfolders, since, for example, I had several versions of the subfolder “writing,” each containing different files. After mucking about in disbelief for a while, I determined that the only way to reassemble the files and hierarchies I had before would be to go folder by folder, starting at the lowest level of subfolder and working backwards to the main folder, combining files as I went. For my Documents folder alone, this would have meant having five finder windows open at once in order to be able to compare the contents of the various subfolders, so as to ensure I wasn’t leaving anything out. At a rough estimate, this would have taken me days and days. I quickly gave up on this method. Too hard to monitor, too hard to be sure I was being complete, too much time wasted. Instead, I pulled all of the versions of the contents of my various restored fragments of my Documents folders into specially named folders on my hard drive. It’s all there, and I should be able to find everything by using my laptop’s search function, but I can’t just navigate through folders to an old project like I could before.* To say this is not the outcome I’d been expecting from a restore would be an understatement. Thinking maybe I’d missed something, I checked the Mozy web site. Nope, they do advertise their service as being “easy to use,” and — as far as I can find — there is no fine print reading “unless you actually need to restore anything” or “but of course your file hierarchy will be left in smoking ruins.” The site also presents a list of snarky alternatives to Mozy (as in, only an idiot wouldn’t use Mozy), such as “pay $200/year for an online backup service that uses old, mediocre software.” In fact, after this experience, it is difficult to imagine software more mediocre than Mozy’s, at least when it comes to the actual restore process. My upgraded hard drive has approximately four times as much space as my old one. Looking ahead to the kind of shambles that would result from this sort of restore of that much more information, I quickly decided that there must be a better way and decided to cancel my Mozy account. This put me on the radar of the company’s Customer Retention department; a representative contacted me, writing: ”We would love the chance to work with you to resolve any issues you have and to make sure your experience with Mozy is positive. If you like, I can escalate your issue and get any problem or concern is resolved quickly.” In response, I explained the problems I’d been having in essentially the same terms as above, and — saying that I felt that Mozy was advertising more than it was capable of delivering — I reiterated my desire to cancel my account and requested all of my money back ($5 a month for about a year, so around $60). I take it as a final verdict on Mozy that the next contact from Customer Retention was not an explanation of how I’d gotten something wrong, how the restore process is really easy if you just take these additional steps, etc. Nope. The next contact simply advised that my account had been cancelled and a whole $5 had been refunded to my account, and expressed the “hope that we can do business in the future.” Not likely. _____ *I also discovered that I had apparently not saved all the files necessary to restore my calendar; that was my fault, not Mozy’s, but it’s a good word to the wise that even backing up requires some technical knowledge to do well. " from http://www.marginnotes.net/2009/03/19/mozy-great-until-you-need-to-restore/

I'm getting some pictures accumulated, and generally have them on 2 computers. Wondering about online backups. Anyone recommend any?

She soloed the Diamond 4 times. Amazing stuff for sure. Here's a great story. http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07f/newswire-solo-diamond-steph-davis Derek Hershey, seen below years before, was the only other free soloist to do this line.

No shit: here is the rock representation of General George Washington gets Fellatio. This was happening as late as only last weekend.

Another work:

Probably an AaaaaRab:-) But what skillz.... http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/washington/2009/08/obama-joker-artist.html "Obama Joker artist unmasked: A fellow Chicagoan August 17, 2009 | 6:29 pm When cryptic posters portraying President Obama as the Joker from "Batman" began popping up around Los Angeles and other cities, the question many asked was, Who is behind the image? Was it an ultra-conservative grassroots group or a disgruntled street artist going against the grain? Nope, it turns out, just a 20-year-old college student from Chicago. Bored during his winter school break, Firas Alkhateeb, a senior history major at the University of Illinois, crafted the picture of Obama with the recognizable clown makeup using Adobe's Photoshop software. Alkhateeb had been tinkering with the program to improve the looks of photos he had taken on his clunky Kodak camera. The Joker project was his grandest undertaking yet. Using a tutorial he'd found online about how to "Jokerize" portraits, he downloaded the October 23 Time Magazine cover of Obama and began digitally painting over it. Four or five hours later, he happily had his product. Obama-joker-time On Jan. 18, Alkhateeb uploaded the image to photo-sharing site Flickr (shown at right). Over the next two months, he amassed just a couple thousand hits, he said. Then the counter exploded after a still-anonymous rogue famously found his image, digitally removed the references to Time Magazine, captioned the picture with the word "socialism" and hung printed copies around L.A., making headlines. Alkhateeb's original Flickr page surpassed 20,000 views. The Times found his Flickr site last week thanks to a tip left by a loyal reader of The Ticket. By Friday, the page had been taken down. On Alkhateeb's page, a manipulated image condemning fellow Chicagoan and White House Chief of Staff Rahm Emanuel (captioned "epic fail") was mixed in with parodies of the "Guitar Hero" game franchises -- dubbed Quran Hero -- and of Napoleon riding a motorcycle (pictured after the jump). Flickr had removed the Joker image due to copyright-infringement concerns, Alkhateeb says the company told him in an e-mail. A Flickr spokeswoman declined to comment due to a company policy that bars discussing inquiries about individual users. Alkhateeb says he wasn't actively trying to cover his tracks, but he did want to lay low. He initially had concerns about ... ... connecting his name with anything critical of the president -- especially living in Chicago, where people are "very, very liberal," he said. "After Obama was elected, you had all of these people who basically saw him as the second coming of Christ," Alkhateeb said. "From my perspective, there wasn't much substance to him." "I abstained from voting in November," he wrote in an e-mail. "Living in Illinois, my vote means close to nothing as there was no chance Obama would not win the state." If he had to choose a politician to support, Alkhateeb said, it would be Ohio Democratic Rep. Dennis Kucinich. Napoleon Possibly becoming a villain in his home city wasn't his only worry. Time's cover and the Joker obviously aren't Alkhateeb's copyrights to fool around with. Concerned about a lawsuit, Alkhateeb, an unnamed superstar whose nationally recognized artwork had stunned friends and family, was relieved that the situation had floated for months without any major news organizations discovering that he was the man behind the paint. After we contacted him, he hesitantly agreed to an interview. If it's any consolation, the Electronic Frontier Foundation, a nonprofit organization that defends digital rights, says Alkhateeb has a strong fair-use defense if Time or DC Comics decides to take him to court -- that is if one even does file a lawsuit. "You really want to think twice about going after a political commenter," said Corynne McSherry, a senior staff attorney at the EFF. In Time's case, "a news organization probably doesn't want to be in the situation of pursuing political criticism." Perhaps the strongest case for anyone, McSherry said, is for Alkhateeb to claim money derived from people selling T-shirts with his picture. Is it worth pursuing? "It would be nice, but it's not that big of a deal," Alkhateeb said. Although Alkhateeb claims he was making no political statement with the artwork, he's plugged into the Washington debate. Though born in the United States, his Palestinian family closely follows Middle Eastern politics. "I think he's definitely doing better than Bush was," Alkhateeb said of Obama. Alkhateeb's views on foreign relations align with the Democrats, he said, while he prefers Republican ideals on domestic issues. Alkhateeb's assessment of Obama: "In terms of domestic policy, I don't think he's really doing much good for the country right now," he said. "We don't have to 'hero worship' the guy." Someday, Alkhateeb hopes to be a history teacher and high school football coach. He won't be pursuing a full-time career in art, but he'll continue playing with Photoshop on the side. He's honored by Shepard Fairey's assessment of his Joker picture, but disagrees with some of Fairey's comments criticizing the message of the Socialism poster. "He made a picture of Bush as a vampire," Alkhateeb said about Fairey. "That's kind of speaking with two faces." Regardless, Alkhateeb does agree with the Obama "Hope" artist about "socialism" being the wrong caption for the Joker image. "It really doesn't make any sense to me at all," he said. "To accuse him of being a socialist is really ... immature. First of all, who said being a socialist is evil?" -- Mark Milian"

Yeah, startling statistic Eric, my 23 daughter told me that one last year. I was all like: "WHERE THE HELL IS MINE"!!!!!

[video:youtube] "Ifff you do not have za big biceps, I recommend a can of Red Bull!"

This use to be my belief and practice just to walk up and climb. If I went up to try it and fell, even if it later became a hard 5.11-5.12 that someone else totally dawged into submission so as to claim a FA, it didn't matter and I walked away. (this was generally always cracks as I don't care for face climbing on bolts generally, it has to be totally unique or special) I don't mind toproping anything though, but they use to be different things for me. I am no longer that way and often tr then lead a new route now, it's all good, just be honest with our policies and practices : and what does that matter anyway? Pope, you didn't answer the question on the Gorge trail...would you not find that fun to ride?

And that's because they're hypocrites. No, that's not fair, I think they just haven't fully thought through their position. I suspect that our views are truly much closer than they are apart. Of course, perhaps an extra picture of what we are talking about would be helpful. Here I am drilling a rap anchor for "The Dragons Spine" out at Cathedral Formation right after Ujahn and I had (FA) climbed it. This is strictly so that one can get down with a single rope, not 2. Kill me for thinking of others and buying and leaving 2 (TWO) Fixe Stainless Steel carabiner style hangers for those who will follow. The route goes just to the left of me, up the spine for a full 200'. It is an amazing line, one you couldn't do without bolts. Perhaps Don can point out or show us a single bolt that he finds visually offensive? Just one Don, there are 24 on this pitch. The close up of one of them is this. They are monster 1/2" x 6-1/4 long Stainless steel wedge anchors with stainless steel 1/2" 40 KN rated hangers so that folks can enjoy themselves for the next 50 - 100 years. They were properly torqued with a new torque wrench to 53 foot lbs. (Mfg spec is 50-60) and loctited so that asswipes don't disturb them. You can't see them from the ground 15 feet away can you? Not unless there is an extreme close up. Didn't think so. Let alone from the car where you start to hike in. The chalk marking the x locating the best spot for pro has already washed away. If you don't want to come and climb the most amazing knobs in the state anywhere, better than anything I've ever seen, done or heard of at Smith Rocks, I'm OK with that. Stay home, whine and bitch. Go Mountain biking like you do and continue to tear up the trails and the environment: keep killing plants in sensitive areas like you do. Go ahead and do that. But for you to pontificate or even mention environmental destruction is total bullshit when not only is there noe involved, but they are putting in a 53 million dollar trail in the Colombia River Gorge strictly so folks can recreate. I support them doing that, I support us doing this. I like this form of recreation. Love it (especially cracks and gear climbs). Only in this case we are doing it with significantly less impact than the trail builders. So I'm calling bullshit on your F**ed Up bullshit.

LOL! Maybe start by not saying "Developer" Checat, substitute the word "Climber". Realistically though, that is highly area dependent, there are some amazing lines in places, I'll use Smith as an example, which could not be climbed with out bolts. For me, I'd rather climb the cracks and gear routes when I go there, but understand wanting to soar up some of the faces as others do so capably.

Yeah, saw you get needlessly flamed for it too. Bet it kicks ass...keep it secret from the dark side I would....

Wait wait wait just a damn minute, back the F up here! What the hell is a "cunt debtor" anyway? Even Google is letting me down on that one. I'm not moving past it so we might as well stop and examine it right now. Besides, it's said that the site noted in the title has been taken down by the Whitehouse.

2 different areas, routes and conversations Checat. They were both about bolts though:-)

__________________________________________________________ next point: On related news, one of the greatest American climbers of all time and early climbing ethicist and clean climbing advocate, Royal Robbins, has just logged onto Supertopo. Username = Royal Robbins). Has an autobiography (or maybe 6) coming out and the pre-orders are now. John Long, one of the best climbing writers alive, gave it 5 of 5 stars after reading an advanced copy. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=924898&tn=0&mr=0 http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=931436&tn=0&mr=0