billcoe

My bad, partner asked me if I was bringing my camera and when I said yes he left his behind. Sooooo, I had it in the car but my Big Wally had maybe 65-70 lbs in it already including 2 ropes strapped to the top and in the hubbub of grabbing all the crap and a Maddox too I forgot to stuff the camera in. So, I have no climbing pics from the weekend. Damn. Anyone else have any pics they will share?

Welcome to the dark side! You'll find that with cam placements, often, a slight pocket, constriction or nubbin can be found within seconds and within inches of your placement if you look for it. Larger cams tend to walk more than smaller for me, and slinging a marginal cam placement is always a good idea as well. You'll find that when you get into hard fingercracks, the best and only finger lock is often the best nut placement as well, and you can sit and fiddle to get your fingers out of the perfect lock so you can slot a nut in the constriction while you pump out, or you can instantly plug and go a perfect green or yellow alien small mastercam right under or above the neck down spot where your fingers and your bodyweight are residing. Thats when one really starts loving cams.

Ditto, it would be nice to know what make, model and size the hangers were and have pictures as well.

It would be nice to know what make, model and size the hangers were. Perhaps pictures as well. Glad it wasn't worse for you. Whew!

Yeah dude, you got my sympathy for sure. I don't know jack about it. So go with the medical 2nd look thing. When I was in high school, bunch of us built a big, bad-assed jump up on the Mile at Timberline. I had what may have been a perfect jump going (In my mind) with some massive air, highest of the day. Things went awesome until the landing. I was a tad too far forward so that when I came down, both skiis popped off. That would have been fine except the right knee smacked onto the ski. Still gives me trouble till this day, in fact, it hurts more sleeping on it than climbing. Good luck!!!

"I use to have it all: eggs, garbage, grubs, bitches..... what happened!"

Dberdinka: short answer is yes! Jmace, I've heard of that happening in the desert while rapping, on sandstone after a rain and the sand is a slurry. Never seen it myself fortunately. Holy crap, I totally forgot about taking a shot at soloing up on that rope until I read this. I remember now what a F*ing rush that peeler was!!! Now, in retrospect, trying to climb on that rope in that location ....crazy. Here's the spot on that rope.

Yeah, but you're saving some money having some illiterates host it I'd imagine. [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8DKgxsVWhg

I mostly find it interesting that someone would sink so low for ratings, usually the flames get bigger after the Presidents been in office for a while and folks want something new, so this could get ugly in a few years as Obama is just starting. Anyway, this seems to be flying way below the publics radar for some strange reason, don't know if this is going to be a Don Imus, dude needs a new job thing....

I most highly recommend it. Plenty of more knowledgeable posters have better details above. My experience is way dated: I helped teach the Advanced climbing school for a couple of years like @ 1984-5 or 86 or somewhere in there. Now they have split that up to high angle snow and ice and Advanced rock I hear. I'm not a Mazama although I've climbed with plenty as recently as 2 weeks ago and bump into them all over creation here and there, sometimes the full classes even. From what I have seen, you can learn via hard knocks and hopefully survive that, maybe with the help of a good mentor or 3, or take some classes. These are the most through, cost effective classes I've ever seen anywhere around here for climbing, and I guided and ran trips for both Portland Parks and Portland State University that involved teaching for many years. I know someone who just finished the basic, which I would have steered him away from that into something like the intermediary or advanced as he's doing first ascents to 5.10b on his own time (follows in the 5.11 or so range), but he was happy he did it. I hear 95% good about the Mazamas teaching programs. They are through and high quality if even at times a bit slow and a time suck. Do it Will.

http://gearx.com/beal-edlinger-10-2mm-60m-std-rope.html $119.99 "Beal Edlinger 10.2mm 60M Std Rope Representing the perfect balance between durability and low weight, the Edlinger is sure to give you wings on your next project. With a 10.2 mm diameter, this cord travels smoothly over rock and through carabiners, providing a lightweight, easy-to-clip connection to the stone. So, if you're looking for a rope that's not too thin, yet not too heavy… the Edlinger is your ticket. Specs: Diameter: 10.2 mm Treatment: Standard Fall Rating: 8 Impact Force: 8 kN Weight: 65 g/m"

ya know it's true cause Glen Beck says so. I don't believe this myself, it's too stupid to be true and there is no evidence. http://www.mediabistro.com/tvnewser/fnc/glenn_beck_off_this_week_vacation_or_something_more_124727.asp However, Fox might not be able to take the heat so they appar to have given him a week off to think it over. LOL!!!! What a dick, not even close to as big of a dick as Michael Savage, but still....this might be a reason to start listening:-) Don't these people know that their shows are all about getting the advertisers money? Here's the quote... {Tipsters inside Fox News tell us Glenn Beck's vacation this week from his Fox News show was not planned. We hear Beck was told to take this week off to let some of the heat surrounding him die down. That heat began July 28 on "Fox & Friends" when Beck said he thought Pres. Obama has "a deep-seated hatred for white people," adding, "This guy is, I believe, a racist."........"

LOL Sorry dude, but given that this was suppose to be a child, if this is true (and we have yet to see it) that a childs scribblings were even remotely considered as a Native American graphic, then THIS IS NUMBER 1 BABY!!!! I think we all would support protecting any and all info we can about the earlier people who trod this area. However, what most of us see in these kinds of instances, is professional bloodsuckers living off the dole with these cushy Government jobs using their jobs to protect and expand their own importance and paychecks as they utilize the "find" to empire build. They do this by starting a conflict whereby a closure and then the ensuing mandatory public process guarantees that someone has to answer the outraged letters and letters of support. Someone has to have public meetings to discuss the new closure. Someone has to hire more folks to work the new conflict. It all makes me in particular so jaded.

I wonder who it is

uhhhh....these dudes probably don't need that kind of provocation to get started.... BTW, I don't consider it an insult to be called a Fanboi. The chick rocks. As far as the comment above about people who have posted on this thread being able to freesolo that stuff.....lets hear and see it.

No one here questions how amazing this is (I think), but think of it much like guys watching the Miss Universe contest and critiquing a mole on an amazing girls' thigh.....I think it's part of human nature to observe things not easily discernible. For myself, it is nothing short of amazing to the point I'm nearly speachless when an Alex Honnold free solos a Moonlight buttress (V 5.12d) or something like this gets done. Joesph, great link. The filming must have been terribly difficult yet they pieced together a nice short film there.

Better than Gatoraid: it's the Paul Newmans "Newmans Own" empty Grape juice bottles for the large sizes but the Stainless packs and fits into the little spots in the freezer.

Shaken, not stirred, you are suggesting? My son assures me that the chemistry and inertness of stainless steel means these are safe to drink out of, but my suspicions on the taste which develops after a few days means that you aren't getting pure water, but water which may have chromium and nickel leaching into it. ...not that there is anything wrong with that.....guess we're all gonna die at some point. The Romans who were rich way back when and had money got the best they could afford as well. Lead pipes and storage vessels. You should all know how that worked out. http://www.epa.gov/history/topics/perspect/lead.htm http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_pipe http://chestofbooks.com/crafts/scientific-american/sup4/The-Water-Supply-Of-Ancient-Roman-Cities-Part-3.html

Bammm! Nailed it! LOL!!!!!

If I can summarize a few others views. I'm not sure everyone is signing on that it's the Governments place to get in and be mom and dad here. Perhaps I can illustrate by asking this way: Can we not all agree that food and water are basic and critical necessities and more important than health care? Does it then not follow that the Gov't is responsible for making sure everyone is fed ?

You talkin about the teeth marks on the big one up there?

Place I go has a spring coming out of the side of the mountain. When my knees are co-operating I load up on water and freeze it for later consumption. My first SS water bottles suggested that I give a little more room for expansion than the poly bottles needed.

Yup, great story, Fowler was so unassuming on that stuff. I think it originally had another name, and when Charlie freesoloed it, they all changed the name to the "Casual" route.. at like 5.10 which at the time was a hard grade. I think he did the DNB in Yosemite in a similar, non-chestbeating manner. Just casually replied to someone who asked what he had climbed that day....

Fu*k Petzl. I'm boycotting their ropes for the reasons which Jeff points out above (Hemp22) Do a search. Read this link to start. http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=1785716;page=1;mh=-1;;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC This one was used for "five top rope climbs". Some of the folks are saying they had it look like that in a week or 2. If it was just a single instance, OK. But it was many many people who had their Zephrys fall apart and Petzl just ignored them all. I'd stick with someone who takes care of their customers well like New England Ropes, Mammut, etc: screw Petzl.

It's a serious consideration Mark, especially since the only other climber to do that very route free solo later died free soloing. Makes you wonder what kinds of odds one is getting. I had a friend once tell me that people commonly die every winter freesoloing in Joshua Tree and yet it never makes it further than the local news down there. Activity Deaths per 100,000 Participants/ Deaths per 100,000 days of participation SKIING 0.26 / .039 SWIMMING 1.6 .05 HUNTING 0.55 .037 SKYDIVING 8.7 .79 SNOWMOBILING 1.04 .12 SCUBA DIVING 3.5 .47 BICYCLING 0.94 .018 RIDING IN PASSENGER CAR 8.5 .023 RESIDENTIAL FIRE 0.89 .0003