billcoe

How is it that the cc.com brain trust has been unable to resolve this important question lo these many years? ______________________________________________________________ Everest is gettin' there.

Well, Ivan registered before you did Kev, AND has many many more actual climbing related posts, yet you have more posts. As your posts are NON-climbing related, AND you don't post but the rare climbing picture -you obviously lead Ivan as a sprayer by a long shot. Yet Chuck_Norris (Member #9789) has 9987830 post it says. So I'll go with Chuck. The whole picture here link ______________________________________________________________ reference post

Donkey Fellator? Haha, now thats capricious! ...or HeeeeHahhhh as it goes.

I thought is was pretty good, note the comment at the bottom though. LOL! "John Stossel Entrepreneurship Helps Make America Great For all its problems, America is a great place. And one thing that makes America great is its prosperity. Yes, some people have suffered during the recession -- but compared to all the other countries in the history of the world, America is rich. Why? One reason is that America is a good place to do business. Dinesh D'Souza, author of "What's So Great about America," points out: "In most other societies, the businessman has been looked down upon. He's been seen as a kind of sleazy guy. But then American founders specifically put protection for patents and trademarks in the Constitution. And suddenly, the entrepreneur is taken from the bottom of the heap and brought to the front." Today, Asian students crush Americans on standardized tests, but it's Americans who invent things like the transistor and the integrated circuit and go on to win disproportionate numbers of Nobel Prizes. Our culture of entrepreneurship turns that science into wealth. TV pitchman Anthony Sullivan is from Britain, but he says his business didn't thrive there. "I found in England if there's 10 reasons you could do something, there's 20 reasons why you couldn't do it, you shouldn't do it, " says Sullivan. "I found in the States that people will give you a shot." One sign of this attitude is that it's relatively easy to start a business here. I opened one in Wilmington, Del. I named it the Stossel Store. It was just a table from which I pitched my "Give Me a Break" book and Fox merchandise. I picked Wilmington because our research showed that Delaware and Nevada make opening a business easier than other states. It still took me a week to get legal permission, but it would have taken much longer in Europe. "I have started businesses in the U.K. and India. It takes at least a month or more just to open doors," A.J. Khubani, president of TeleBrands, says. Unfortunately, bureaucrats are threatening this good part of America. I had to register with the Delaware Secretary of State and the Division of Corporations, get a federal employer identification number, buy commercial liability insurance, register with the Delaware state Department of Finance, etc. I didn't even try to open a business in my hometown, New York City, because the bureaucracy is so ferocious. The fastest-growing cities of the world make it easier. In Hong Kong several years ago, I got a business permit in just one day. It's a reason Hong Kong is rich. Entrepreneurs are encouraged. But at least America is a close second. America also has a different idea about failure. The Stossel Store was a bad idea. I lost money. D'Souza says that in other places, that would be evidence that I am a complete failure. I tried to make a profit, failed and so shouldn't try again. That's the attitude in most of the world, says D'Souza. "You say: 'You know what? I tried my hand at business. It didn't work. Now, let me take a salary job where I'll have some security." He says that's not true in America. "An American will start a company. It'll fail. Pretty soon, he's starting a newspaper, or he's now trying to export fish to Japan." We know that Thomas Edison invented the light bulb, but Edison failed much more often than he succeeded. He had hundreds of failures. He was fired by the telegraph office, and lost money on a cement company and an iron business. Henry Ford's first company failed completely. Dr. Seuss' first book was rejected by 27 publishers. Oprah was fired from her first job as a reporter. A TV station called her unfit for television. "There's something in the American temperament that says, 'Gosh, I lost seven times but that's OK,'" D'Souza says. "And I think that that's a resiliency of the American spirit." It's one of several great things about America." (In the comments section) The first transistor was invented by a Canadian and the first integrated circuit by a Brit."

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Ditto for both Rob and Eagle. I miss having little kids around, but confess that it's nice getting driven home by your adult kid and not worrying about a DUI after a few cocktails too.

Good call.

Paul, you and Kay must be swimming in scratch! Gasp....they list for $89.50 EACH!!!! Hopefully you are getting personalized thank you notes from folks showing up to lap your routes. This is what I've been using. It's equivalent to their $39.95 unit now. They're the old style Fixe Sport anchors that rated to 30 kn. 2 per rap station - they are 100% stainless steel although I've hit the visible ones with a light grey primer to keep the reflection down and reduce visibility, installed them with a 7" long stainless wedge anchor. I think that I have over 32 in place now. I like the thicker rod stock of the biner utilized on the ones you linked, but I see that the carabiners alone are $ 29.95 USD each for the Stainless steel! I should share this: since I've installed the one in the top picture -where the biners do not touch when weighted, I've learned from Jim Titt at Bolt Products in Germany that if the bottoms of the biners can touch, it radically reduces oscillation and via less materiel loss improves the life of the unit, so they are being installed closer now, like the bottom unit. It makes me nervous to have both bolts so close (@ 8 inches now) however, the rock doesn't have shear planes like normal basalt and although weaker and easier to drill, is very difficult to fracture and tougher when hammered on and better adapted to closer spacing.

Hah hah! (spoken in a sing-songy/yet snarky with hints of whining voice) I told you so! I told you so! No one listens to me. I take solace in the fact that at least the dogs listen to me....sometimes anyway. Thanks for the Permadraw link Matt m. Those look awesome! Ugly, but awesome. http://climbtech.myshopify.com/products/permadraws I've figured out that if I clipped one of those to each of the recent bolts I've put in on bolted routes, it would cost somebody @$4,189.38. Perhaps I could finance it by the sale of hummocks to city folks who need table decorating? My son Shaun (not spelled Shawn), who also often doesn't listen to me either.

Bring yer kid pictures here. My son trundling hummock session last Tuesday.

...or the father for that matter...

Shit, that looked washed out once uploaded. Nother try. Little better. Hope that's not too large. There was pretty good rime on the Steel Cliffs on Hood last weekend, the summit here might be looking good for 2 tools too.

It's melting well at under 5,000 feet but looks like lots of snow higher up yet. Haydar and Shaun framing Mount Jefferson last Saturday. North Ridge route is near the left skyline for reference.

I would have guessed California from the title. He'll get about 8-10 votes...that is, if his parents are still alive.

...and a very good writer as well. Big props to the man on the professional level.

I'm hearing: ...hmmm....this might help you Mark WWW.CascadeSportClimbers.com ?

naughty librarian look ?

Your post reminds me of the prediction: "It's going to rain, unless it doesn't....we'll see."

Thanks for the heads up Pope. Dons other work was a very good read. On a similar note, I have to add how nice it's been that you guys are not hanging here around trashing on bolts repeatedly. So thank you for both the heads up on the book and the restraint.

Rad, I can't answer the question, but I was wondering what kind of scratch is this going to set you back? On the fixed draw thing, to me, if it's just for convenience, then your basically littering and pissing off a large group of your peers. I don't mind the visual myself, but I know lots of others do so if it was me, I'd only leave them if it was very, very difficult to unclip them afterwards. In the end, this is your call. You might wait till some other folks climb it and see what they say as none of us knows a darn thing about your place. Good luck.

A thread on the technical data, wire size, sourcing, etc etc etc. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1201080&msg=1201720#msg1201720 of particular note:

I bumped into some Portland Mountain Rescue folks and asked them. All they had was what was in the news.

Finally!

I'm a rappeller - every time if I can (unless I just installed the stuff and it's easier of course as I'm a lazy person hrk hrk) , but I understand that there are some places where they lower a lot and just actively replace the last link on a chain as lowering is easier and safer at times. I believe that is at steeper overhanging hard sport climbs as you lower off and pull draws. I hope to someday be strong enough to do those routes.....sigh.....until then....