billcoe

It's how I roll. It avoids the unpleasantness so common elsewhere and I just find it humorous. Truthfully, no one gives a shit anyway - so I just post some banal-ass thing in spray. Once folks stop reading the thread and it's dead I go edit it with climbing info I would find interesting. It's put a few historical tidbits out there someone might search for or find interesting some day. Or not. Search on "Corn" for instance. Take care Paul!

Hah hah! Yes, hell would then be stuck inside, not climbing at all, in this circle jerk of a forum calling each other names?!!! _________________________________________________________________ Too funny!!!! Was that you raising your kid to multitask and be an alpinist John?

We could have rigged it without the bolts. But that wasn't how it got done. Period. End of story. Yesterdays news. Driving while looking in your rear-view mirror. Crying over spilt milk. My cousin, "Fast Freddy" use to work mine rescues for many years. (Typically Coal) He was on the "A" team, which responded to all the mine disasters and they would be the first ones in. If they were occupied there was a "B" team what went instead, otherwise, they'd be packing one day for West Virgina and another for Utah. He said something to me that stuck to me. He said that going in to save these stuck or dead guys was close to suicide. See, the best laid plans, technology and care to be safe had radically and unexpectedly failed when the collapse or explosion had occurred, and that now no one in the world short of God really knew what the geology and situation truly was. Certainly whatever caused the collapse or explosion the first time would certainly still be present: in spades, until the shaft got looked at by engineering teams, reworked and re-supported. It was basically luck and pluck that pulled you through it, and you needed to Fast yes, but extra extra cautious. Freddy got his name from leading his team into one of these hell holes, and when some creaking was followed by some crashing, he was also (although it was not known how this occurred in the darkness and the dust)the first one out and greeted each team member as they hit the exit. Somehow in the dark he had crawled right pass full line of dudes whom were also scrambling to the exit as fast as they could without being seen by a single one of them. Then he became "Fast Freddy". Although is it only slight similarity, whatever caused such a massive chuck of rock to fall off the face there, exposed some underlying weakness. For you to say a cam is bomber, or not, is a supposition you make, or choose not too, from the safety and warmth of your computer. It is what is is. I generally am very displeased with any additional bolts at Beacon. Let me toss out one more thing for consideration. It pisses me off to see these bolted convenience rap lines get put in everywhere. I don't run around yelling about them or chopping. However: I feel it removes some of the risk and skill needed, and lowers the challenge for us all. We can be better than that. Beacon and Royal Arches both come to mind. Yet on the other side of the coin, imagine if you are on the Skamania County SAR and get called out to lower off some gumbies who cratered 1/2 way up on YW. Having some of these out of the way bolts up there mapped out for them might be of some small or great value. These JH bolts are not in anyone's way, and I was surprised Ivan even saw them. He's as adventurous as a chipmunk I suppose. If they are visible from the YW route, I'd vote to get rid of them ASAP....are they? Can you guys speak to that? As far as the outrage Kev, feel free to yank them, think of it as your contribution to a better world. Go. Do it. More action Jackson. We can get up there with a static line and a tree for an anchor next time, est ist mox nichts to me. It's all good bros!

KICK ASS GENTLEMEN! KICK ASS! BIG PROPS AND DEEP RESPECT! WOOT! That fawking line itself it probably better the 10 best lines all added up together around here...droool!!!! Good call on thinking of the others who will follow. A++ Gentlemen! A++ I can see the parts which will be wet from the pic. Nice job on pre-planning and being considerate of others! P7 = "Wet like your wife!!! " LOL! (btw, as an aside, folks can rebuild batteries I hear)

Nobody is taking Plaidmans record. I'm thinking of inviting my son and going up with Jimmy, and we can give it a shot though.

Nice, you'll get your times down if you keep working on it, don't stress on it as it's still early in the training season. BTW: did you chop any bolts? No?........TOLD YA SO TOLD YA SO TOLD YA SO! lol! Where's my $100! Did I make that call or what?!!! Hah ha ! Some dawgs some dawgs just bark bark bark. For myself, sure I bark my ass off, but do things on occasion, like chase a squirrel or scratch my nutz..:-)

What's the pay like?

Hey bone, I don't have sound, can you just give me the summation of those 2 hours?

I got $100 bill that says that the bone didn't chop jack shit at Beacon today......ha ha! What say Bone? Lets see the Trip report.

hmmmm

OMG Slacker sighting! Los Dos Tappetts! Yesterdays events: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/965803/Fun_graphic#Post965803 BTW, I have hierthro been posting some banal thing in spray, like "nice graphic dude", and then later re-editing it with additional text and pictures as needed like this example link above. After all, this is a forum for bitching and Beacon, so I generally haven't been sharing any of this shit except with you dudes and a few other gentle folks. LOL

Holy shit, from here that looks dicey......congrats on surviving it. Wow! Nice work with the photos too!

WTF? One of the few things that draw business to our area is the outdoors and our acceptance and enjoyment of all those things. Kayaking, trail running and biking, and climbing. If the city is closing the butte to climbing, even if it's just the top: that sends a clear signal to companies who are thinking of relocating here. The message is: Move to Salt Lake City instead.

Bullshit jb, this post of Fairweathers isn't a racist expression. you merely show your own small minded intolerance by screaming and ranting like a dick that it is or that anyone that doesn't agree with you is a Nazi or a racist. You may be a nice prson in person, and please don't take this the wrong way: but these kinds of responses which you continually make as your knee jerks up and slams your own chin just makes you out to be a man-spirited, intolerant, small minded, prick.

Now this, this is real art and humor mixed into short concise words: much like a Cristo exhibit.... ...all he needs is the bubuska....

So I'm a racist....sure thing. A racist and a traitor to my race to boot (per the Turner Diaries) Guess "you can't please everyone, so ya, got to please yourself" (Ricky Nelson) Sieg Heil jb! There, hope you feel better.

I have to quit drinking wine...it's going to ruin some relationships. Ujahn and I were going to go do a new route today, the 2nd pitch of a route we did earlier: it was to be the finish up to the top of the Dragons Spine Pinnacle. but yesterday he called me to bow out as he was very sick. So I started drinking and musing what I should go do, was thinking Beacon but figured it would be crowded. So I decided "What the hell" and to go solo the route Ujahn and I were going to do. I ran around packing and racking and all kinds of things, basically getting giddy with excitement. Killed most of a bottle of wine and was totally focused on the days procedures and plans when I wasn't focused on hitting the bottle. Last night's post Wake up early today all fired to go solo and wham! it hits me upside the head like when you are slapped there with a cold carp: I'm like: holy crap, that's just a damn low thing to do, just ignore your buddy. So my first thought is I think I'll call him and get permission. But it's early and I'll be waking him up for this permission and that seems even more selfish as I know he'll wake up feeling like shit and say OK anyway cause he's such a nice dude. So I'm really feeling like a turd and moping around totally torn between still being fired up to go do it....figure I can't do this to my friend. But I sus out the opposite opinion as well (oh yes, it must be done! She MUST be mine). It was like I had the devil on one shoulder and the angle on the other - totally at odds and raging their thoughts inside of my head. I knew what the right thing to do was and that was to give up the ascent and keep my friend. Even after deciding I was close to changing my mine and firing it off anyway. To help me resist the temptation to grab the new route solo I toss my new LaSportiva TC Pro Shoes down the stairs with my Cilocear rope solo pack in disgust. Grab the rest of the crap and head out before I change my mind. Figure that I'll just go solo up another route to the top (the only route) and knock some rocks off and put in some bolts on the front. Then Ujahn and I can come back and do it together. Rap anchor: It went well, wish I'd had my rock shoes instead of climbing with my approach shoes as the climbing I did do, but ces't le Vie. I soloed an existing line to the top of the pinnacle and rap bolt the front while kicking off the loose boulders and I got her done and back to the car @ 3 pm feeling like a pretty good guy who got the job done without stabbing his buddy in the back. BTW: I'm drinking grape juice - non-alcoholic right now. Really:-) __________________________________________________________ And the green bag was still there from the Tappett day 180' of so off the deck as of yesterday! I snapped a shot of me and it turned up in the picture background. See it there off to the right and lower? BTW, do either of you Tappetts remember my serious talk about making sure that rap points were short enough to be available to some dumb asshat with a short rope? And do you also remember showing me my core shot/little off the end 11M rope, that is, the core shot you dudes caused showed me *cough* cough* ? Well, I cut that end off at night and took the same exact rope out and said fucking rope didn't reach the next rap anchor from this picture. Imagine! It got interesting at the rope end having a 50-60 lb pack hanging off my harness while staring at the rap anchors 10' or so and the deck 100' below me: Mr. Asshat. LOL! Proving that talking is only half of communication: listening being the other *cough* cough*. Not that this would had mattered, but in trying to pare weight, I had stashed both my wallet and my cell phone in the car -ha ha! I'll have that rap point fixed soon though, no worries. Fortunately the sac is "GREEN" and folks can't bitchin' on "GREEN". LOL! Hasta la vista amigos

Well it's true that jb's got all the outrage, lack of tolerance to others viewpoints, and self-righteousness of any good Nazi. However, the Nazis were an entire organization while jb is just a single dick.

It didn't happen unless there are pictures dude!

Nope: You are a presumptious dick and a serial namecaller....period. Please don't take that the wrong way, but your opinion of yourself is obviously skewed! Of course, Fairweather, she could have just as been a Christian, which make you a presumptious dick as well......which probably just makes me a hater....hmmm. ______________________________________________________________ Breaking newz! Wait, checking another story does call her a "Devout Muslim" {The devout Muslim mother claimed Aminat came at her with a knife in her sewing room, where she prayed several times a day. } So the updated CC.com version of this story makes me misinformed...and a hater, Fairweather well read, and jb is still a dick. Todays analyst is a happy camper anyway. TA ta all. !

This is true, not just the hiking trail has been open the whole time. Didn't Shane P free a new 5.12 (old aid line) or something over this way this winter? Too far right to see but you can see other folks on routes: The March? parade pic above but closer up: Earlier that whatever that was, on a route. time for Ivan shoes:

Yup, sad as hell. Too bad. This isn't my last post and testament, but it will be someplace. ..Hey SOSOB whut time is it?!!!

Last Wednesday Alex. Now you're back in! and please, I think that (from all accounts and as you can see for yourself) this forum was set up exclusively for bitching only....bitching only...so if you could please stay on task sir.....

There are lots of them...they usually start out, "I was dropped by a GriGri in a gym....." invariably followed by the description of some dude taking his girlfriend out to belay him and how "I showed her how to do it....blah blah...." Actually, I did read of an instance where a sharp rock wedged into a grigri and chopped a rope in half. I don't know what to attribute that too. Belayer error? Rope failure? Bad luck?

OK, I just got a partner cancellation (whopping cough it sounded like:-) on tomorrows climb. It turns it into a casual romp to a serious endeavor if I can stick it out. Basically I want to go try and solo this pinnacle. That's the Dragons Spine Pinnacle up there taken from the side view. The other side and going up the front, and what would be the second pitch to the top, is badass and needs to be done. Myself and 2 other fine dudes had done the only route to the top just the other day via a a route which you can see in this pic. But I'm talking a different line. I think I'll take a shot at a solo. No support. No buddies. No phone reception. No helicopters. Just Me...and rock. That's it. ...and a harness...that's it. ....and my rock shoes...that's it. ...OK, a rope as well but that's it...OK, I'll bring some bolting shit. Looks easy from the armchair. Just climb up them loose knobs and be done with it. The fall to the dirt is @ 300+ feet. Ask Tappet #2 how that sound is as the Cilogear Big Wally took a 200 footer there and angered into the dirt yesterday which I heard from up the cliff through my ear muff protectors! If I don't come back, this would have been the way I would have wanted to go, that is, if I was like 100 and ten fucking years old and sucking my last rattling breath and not a young 56. Fortunately, going quick has it's rewards....not as good as a 2% cash back credit card, but it could be worse. Ask someone with terminal cancer. So todelloo all - remember that the Golden Rule isn't the Golden Shower, and you should really treat others as you would like to be treated. This means you too Pat- you dickhead. LOL! Seriously, lets top off a pint together sometime, without fisticuffs I mean. If we don't get to it first and I check out tomorrow, feel free to quaff one without me and then piss on my grave, I'll be cracking up if ya do. I'd gotten lucky on this one below earlier. I'd also put that TR in spray, where most of my good stuff wound up anyway. Hey Dwayner, we stuck in some rap bolts to get off of it for the 2nd ascent and so far it's seen 4 ascents. So you missed out, go back to whacking your pud online instead of climbing. I invited you. Pope too. It's a great route: The Salathe Highway. No bolts, pins or anything of substance for the FA. You'd have like it. Then we put in the bolts for a rap anchor. (insert sad face here....NOT!) Here's a great dude, highly recommended guy: Adam Winslow on the 2nd ascent which he kindly let me follow. That one up there is on the left in the lower pinnacle. I'm hoping to be on the one on the right by the fir tree mid-center there. As it involves carrying lots of shit, like 60-70 lbs, and dieing if I screw up, my inner puss may come out and it might not happen. In Witch case we can laugh together ha ha ha ha ha ha. Overview