billcoe

Paul, you and Kay must be swimming in scratch! Gasp....they list for $89.50 EACH!!!! Hopefully you are getting personalized thank you notes from folks showing up to lap your routes. This is what I've been using. It's equivalent to their $39.95 unit now. They're the old style Fixe Sport anchors that rated to 30 kn. 2 per rap station - they are 100% stainless steel although I've hit the visible ones with a light grey primer to keep the reflection down and reduce visibility, installed them with a 7" long stainless wedge anchor. I think that I have over 32 in place now. I like the thicker rod stock of the biner utilized on the ones you linked, but I see that the carabiners alone are $ 29.95 USD each for the Stainless steel! I should share this: since I've installed the one in the top picture -where the biners do not touch when weighted, I've learned from Jim Titt at Bolt Products in Germany that if the bottoms of the biners can touch, it radically reduces oscillation and via less materiel loss improves the life of the unit, so they are being installed closer now, like the bottom unit. It makes me nervous to have both bolts so close (@ 8 inches now) however, the rock doesn't have shear planes like normal basalt and although weaker and easier to drill, is very difficult to fracture and tougher when hammered on and better adapted to closer spacing.

Not at all. I feel lucky if I can spell my own name correctly some days and I drink to excess constantly as well with the attendant accuracy issues which accompany that. This writing approach, almost inviting corrections, gives any and all web know it alls a chance to say, "no you dumb fu*ing idiot, it's spelled...." ____" or it's this that or the other" without looking like jackasses. See, I do it for you, my bros, to keep you lookin good.

Hah hah! (spoken in a sing-songy/yet snarky with hints of whining voice) I told you so! I told you so! No one listens to me. I take solace in the fact that at least the dogs listen to me....sometimes anyway. Thanks for the Permadraw link Matt m. Those look awesome! Ugly, but awesome. http://climbtech.myshopify.com/products/permadraws I've figured out that if I clipped one of those to each of the recent bolts I've put in on bolted routes, it would cost somebody @$4,189.38. Perhaps I could finance it by the sale of hummocks to city folks who need table decorating? My son Shaun (not spelled Shawn), who also often doesn't listen to me either.

Lets see some pictures Dan! Preferably like Nate's up there with granite for a backdrop. (Howe sound?)

Bring yer kid pictures here. My son trundling hummock session last Tuesday.

So by asking him to undervalue these to a "bro" you're asking him to give someone he doesn't even know some money: ie, the difference between what they are worth and what you think he "should" be selling them for. By not sending us some of your money Crillz, you are fucking us over and ripping us off. How about we all give YOU our address's and you can just send us all some of that money burnig a hole in your pocket? samesame, but different. See?

...or the father for that matter...

Shit, that looked washed out once uploaded. Nother try. Little better. Hope that's not too large. There was pretty good rime on the Steel Cliffs on Hood last weekend, the summit here might be looking good for 2 tools too.

It's melting well at under 5,000 feet but looks like lots of snow higher up yet. Haydar and Shaun framing Mount Jefferson last Saturday. North Ridge route is near the left skyline for reference.

I would have guessed California from the title. He'll get about 8-10 votes...that is, if his parents are still alive.

...and a very good writer as well. Big props to the man on the professional level.

I'm hearing: ...hmmm....this might help you Mark WWW.CascadeSportClimbers.com ?

naughty librarian look ?

Your post reminds me of the prediction: "It's going to rain, unless it doesn't....we'll see."

Thanks for the heads up Pope. Dons other work was a very good read. On a similar note, I have to add how nice it's been that you guys are not hanging here around trashing on bolts repeatedly. So thank you for both the heads up on the book and the restraint.

Rad, I can't answer the question, but I was wondering what kind of scratch is this going to set you back? On the fixed draw thing, to me, if it's just for convenience, then your basically littering and pissing off a large group of your peers. I don't mind the visual myself, but I know lots of others do so if it was me, I'd only leave them if it was very, very difficult to unclip them afterwards. In the end, this is your call. You might wait till some other folks climb it and see what they say as none of us knows a darn thing about your place. Good luck.

A thread on the technical data, wire size, sourcing, etc etc etc. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1201080&msg=1201720#msg1201720 of particular note:

I bumped into some Portland Mountain Rescue folks and asked them. All they had was what was in the news.

Finally!

I'm a rappeller - every time if I can (unless I just installed the stuff and it's easier of course as I'm a lazy person hrk hrk) , but I understand that there are some places where they lower a lot and just actively replace the last link on a chain as lowering is easier and safer at times. I believe that is at steeper overhanging hard sport climbs as you lower off and pull draws. I hope to someday be strong enough to do those routes.....sigh.....until then....

A woman was very distraught at the fact that she had not had a date or any sex in quite some time. She was afraid she might have something wrong with her, so she decided to seek the medical expertise of a sex therapist. Her doctor recommended that she see Dr. Chang, the well-known Chinese sex therapist, so she went to see him. Upon entering the examination room, Dr. Chang said, "OK, take off all you crose." The woman did as she was told. "Now, get down and craw reery, reery fass to odder side of room." Again, the woman did as she was instructed. Dr. Chang then said, "OK, now craw reery, reery fass back to me." So she did. Dr. Chang shook his head slowly and said, "Your probrem vewy bad. You haf Ed Zachary Disease. Worse case I ever see. Dat why you not haf sex or dates." Worried, the woman asked anxiously, "Oh my God, Dr. Chang, what is Ed Zachary Disease?" Dr. Chang looked the woman in the eye and replied, "Ed Zachary Disease is when your face rook Ed Zachary rike your ass." Keep and eye on that Sobo, it's taken out 2 of my friends.

Interesting that everyone who doesn't agree with jb is either a Nazi or a McCarthyite goon. I was looking for a shirt that say you say TOMato I say tomMATO but all I found was this. Evidently its an epidemic on this saying out there.

Melanoma? PS did they need a lawn mower to shave your back?

Yeah Rob this isn't funny you rightwing meathead interrupting disruptive regressive progressive Nazi goon. Guess you got told! Hah ha Hah ha! jb, vanguard of the Flame Warrior proletariat is trying to insult everyone, don't interrupt and don't sit in the back of the room interrupting your intellectual superiors cracking jokes either! This is important. - Wait....? Is jb's "The Point" how much better he can insult or to complete and flesh out the display of Blowhardishness or is it just an open display of an upsidedown heirachy of needs??? Both? jus' musing.... wonder what Freud would suggest here...?hmmm?.....