billcoe

DAAAAAHHHH BEACOOOONNNNN!

I thought that Black diamond had test some of those old biners but couldn't find it. Found this re: "MICROFRACTURES" From http://www.onrope1.com/Myth1.htm "Myth #1: You should replace a dropped carabiner because of undetectable "Micro-Fractures". This is the biggest myth we know of, and was probably created by unscrupulous salesmen to get you to buy more carabiners. CarabineerTruth: In a test by Steve Nagode, an engineer at the REI quality assurance laboratory, 30 carabiner bodies (half ovals, half D’s) were each dropped six times onto a concrete floor from a height of 33 feet. Following the drops, their open-gate strength was measured and compared to 30 control samples from the same production batch and which had not been dropped. The statistical result showed "no loss of strength.” Inspect any piece of dropped equipment carefully, checking for proper function. Cast metal products are most vulnerable to damage, fractures and cracks. To my personal knowledge, this happened once to a gray cast metal Jumar ascender in the 1970's. To my extensive knowledge: Drop forged carabiners (and similar gear) have not exhibited this problem. Note: OEM Petzl says: 1mm of wear or gouge is serious enough wear or damage to require replacement. -and- BD Worn biner tests: http://web3.bdel.com/scene/beta/qc_kp_archive.php#040606

nah, maybe...Sarah Palin Hawt.... Is that hawt?

Of course, elsewhere it may be a different matter...

I defer all my bolting questions to Jim. Then I would start asking others.

My understanding that that was suppose to be taken up by the swing shift... ...they might be unionized so perhaps they took a safety break before they even started and ever got to it!?

sick Remember the good old days when Porter was always posting the "rate my poo" pictures? What ever happened to them, the site went off line?

Straighten these guys out Kevin!

Yup! One of many Paul. I'm drinking wine and packing right now for a solo tomorrow. Salethe = Salathe - got missed by the spel checkur. The bros renamed the place Coethedral too, so unless someone did a search of Cathedral - it's buried. I'm having a hard time calling it the new name, I like it, but my mind is not shifting gears quickly:-) ps, how about that corn post? Got the Rooster all hot and bothered. No one else gives a shit! Hah hah! _________________________________________________________ Retro edit re: your post immediately below - The Rooster has got to be Porter:-) It should be fine, but thanks! If I do git myself kilt, at least these shitty-assed pictures and retroposts will finally stop! LOL! ________________________________________________________ One more edit -earlier, the Tappets and I played hookey, took off Thursday and went up to play. Finished the last 100'+ or so of Gratitude to the rim with Geoff leading the FA. Here's some pics of that day. Geoff marking the bolts for P2 of Gratitude Back on Terra Firma - Geoff leading while Kyle Belays him on Coecoenut Bridge Kyle on rappel with the Old Witch Pinnacle as a back drop. BTW, the solo (new route) yesterday kicked ass, but carrying all the other crap you need for bolting (drill, bits, hammer, etc etc) filled up my backpack to the point where I barely could fasten the lid down. It was staggeringly heavy to carry that shit up and rap in with it. I installed 29 big-assed 1/2" x 7" long stainless steel bolts (like this) and 2 rappel anchors (so carried up 4 Fixe anchors ass well) (These) Climbing, while tired, cramping, having dust blow into your eyes while trying to stay stanced and toss some shit off your next handhold that you missed when you had just TRed it is just as bad. Damn it just makes me feel old. There's still some loose stuff and poor clips that need hammering, my arms were both cramping and barely able to hold a hammer so I polished off my water and went home and said "Fawk it", let someone else clean it.....I am such a wuss. Pulled a muscle wrestling the pack out of the car, tore one of my fingernails partially off (it hurts like hell to just type), both hands are barely able to close the finger from the arthritic thing flaring up from beating the hell out of them, every muscle is sore and I burned the inside of my upper arm with the drill bit. I think I might have actually heard a sizzling sound, it's all marked up where the blister broke and the blood dried and there's now a red infection ring around the scab....Sigh.....a wuss I say..... Update: talked to Ujahn about the bolts I'd put in in Pitch 2 of The Dragons Spine earlier and how I had resisted the temptation as detailed above. He said he'd have given my permission (I knew he would) that he had literally sunk into a pit of extreme sickness and couldn't had gone out then no matter what, but that NOW he has the roof torn off his house and needs to get it back on- and thus can't go finish the pitch this weekend. He says it's my lead when we do though finally get out there.......Said it was OK to go solo the 2nd pitch of Ujahns Delight though! Woot! When I was up there with Tappetts we left our extra bolts like 200' off the deck, so I don't have to haul as many in there! Extra Woot! Ujahns delight could finish right where those bolts are if I so choose. Hey Dwayner, the bolt count is over 300 now and going UP! In fact, 354 1/2 x 6-1/4 and 7" long stainless wedge anchors, and 40 Fixe SS Carabiner style anchors. (20 rap points.

It's how I roll. It avoids the unpleasantness so common elsewhere and I just find it humorous. Truthfully, no one gives a shit anyway - so I just post some banal-ass thing in spray. Once folks stop reading the thread and it's dead I go edit it with climbing info I would find interesting. It's put a few historical tidbits out there someone might search for or find interesting some day. Or not. Search on "Corn" for instance. Take care Paul!

Hah hah! Yes, hell would then be stuck inside, not climbing at all, in this circle jerk of a forum calling each other names?!!! _________________________________________________________________ Too funny!!!! Was that you raising your kid to multitask and be an alpinist John?

We could have rigged it without the bolts. But that wasn't how it got done. Period. End of story. Yesterdays news. Driving while looking in your rear-view mirror. Crying over spilt milk. My cousin, "Fast Freddy" use to work mine rescues for many years. (Typically Coal) He was on the "A" team, which responded to all the mine disasters and they would be the first ones in. If they were occupied there was a "B" team what went instead, otherwise, they'd be packing one day for West Virgina and another for Utah. He said something to me that stuck to me. He said that going in to save these stuck or dead guys was close to suicide. See, the best laid plans, technology and care to be safe had radically and unexpectedly failed when the collapse or explosion had occurred, and that now no one in the world short of God really knew what the geology and situation truly was. Certainly whatever caused the collapse or explosion the first time would certainly still be present: in spades, until the shaft got looked at by engineering teams, reworked and re-supported. It was basically luck and pluck that pulled you through it, and you needed to Fast yes, but extra extra cautious. Freddy got his name from leading his team into one of these hell holes, and when some creaking was followed by some crashing, he was also (although it was not known how this occurred in the darkness and the dust)the first one out and greeted each team member as they hit the exit. Somehow in the dark he had crawled right pass full line of dudes whom were also scrambling to the exit as fast as they could without being seen by a single one of them. Then he became "Fast Freddy". Although is it only slight similarity, whatever caused such a massive chuck of rock to fall off the face there, exposed some underlying weakness. For you to say a cam is bomber, or not, is a supposition you make, or choose not too, from the safety and warmth of your computer. It is what is is. I generally am very displeased with any additional bolts at Beacon. Let me toss out one more thing for consideration. It pisses me off to see these bolted convenience rap lines get put in everywhere. I don't run around yelling about them or chopping. However: I feel it removes some of the risk and skill needed, and lowers the challenge for us all. We can be better than that. Beacon and Royal Arches both come to mind. Yet on the other side of the coin, imagine if you are on the Skamania County SAR and get called out to lower off some gumbies who cratered 1/2 way up on YW. Having some of these out of the way bolts up there mapped out for them might be of some small or great value. These JH bolts are not in anyone's way, and I was surprised Ivan even saw them. He's as adventurous as a chipmunk I suppose. If they are visible from the YW route, I'd vote to get rid of them ASAP....are they? Can you guys speak to that? As far as the outrage Kev, feel free to yank them, think of it as your contribution to a better world. Go. Do it. More action Jackson. We can get up there with a static line and a tree for an anchor next time, est ist mox nichts to me. It's all good bros!

KICK ASS GENTLEMEN! KICK ASS! BIG PROPS AND DEEP RESPECT! WOOT! That fawking line itself it probably better the 10 best lines all added up together around here...droool!!!! Good call on thinking of the others who will follow. A++ Gentlemen! A++ I can see the parts which will be wet from the pic. Nice job on pre-planning and being considerate of others! P7 = "Wet like your wife!!! " LOL! (btw, as an aside, folks can rebuild batteries I hear)

Nobody is taking Plaidmans record. I'm thinking of inviting my son and going up with Jimmy, and we can give it a shot though.

Nice, you'll get your times down if you keep working on it, don't stress on it as it's still early in the training season. BTW: did you chop any bolts? No?........TOLD YA SO TOLD YA SO TOLD YA SO! lol! Where's my $100! Did I make that call or what?!!! Hah ha ! Some dawgs some dawgs just bark bark bark. For myself, sure I bark my ass off, but do things on occasion, like chase a squirrel or scratch my nutz..:-)

What's the pay like?

Hey bone, I don't have sound, can you just give me the summation of those 2 hours?

I got $100 bill that says that the bone didn't chop jack shit at Beacon today......ha ha! What say Bone? Lets see the Trip report.

hmmmm

OMG Slacker sighting! Los Dos Tappetts! Yesterdays events: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/965803/Fun_graphic#Post965803 BTW, I have hierthro been posting some banal thing in spray, like "nice graphic dude", and then later re-editing it with additional text and pictures as needed like this example link above. After all, this is a forum for bitching and Beacon, so I generally haven't been sharing any of this shit except with you dudes and a few other gentle folks. LOL

Holy shit, from here that looks dicey......congrats on surviving it. Wow! Nice work with the photos too!

WTF? One of the few things that draw business to our area is the outdoors and our acceptance and enjoyment of all those things. Kayaking, trail running and biking, and climbing. If the city is closing the butte to climbing, even if it's just the top: that sends a clear signal to companies who are thinking of relocating here. The message is: Move to Salt Lake City instead.

Bullshit jb, this post of Fairweathers isn't a racist expression. you merely show your own small minded intolerance by screaming and ranting like a dick that it is or that anyone that doesn't agree with you is a Nazi or a racist. You may be a nice prson in person, and please don't take this the wrong way: but these kinds of responses which you continually make as your knee jerks up and slams your own chin just makes you out to be a man-spirited, intolerant, small minded, prick.

Now this, this is real art and humor mixed into short concise words: much like a Cristo exhibit.... ...all he needs is the bubuska....

So I'm a racist....sure thing. A racist and a traitor to my race to boot (per the Turner Diaries) Guess "you can't please everyone, so ya, got to please yourself" (Ricky Nelson) Sieg Heil jb! There, hope you feel better.