billcoe

I have to quit drinking wine...it's going to ruin some relationships. Ujahn and I were going to go do a new route today, the 2nd pitch of a route we did earlier: it was to be the finish up to the top of the Dragons Spine Pinnacle. but yesterday he called me to bow out as he was very sick. So I started drinking and musing what I should go do, was thinking Beacon but figured it would be crowded. So I decided "What the hell" and to go solo the route Ujahn and I were going to do. I ran around packing and racking and all kinds of things, basically getting giddy with excitement. Killed most of a bottle of wine and was totally focused on the days procedures and plans when I wasn't focused on hitting the bottle. Last night's post Wake up early today all fired to go solo and wham! it hits me upside the head like when you are slapped there with a cold carp: I'm like: holy crap, that's just a damn low thing to do, just ignore your buddy. So my first thought is I think I'll call him and get permission. But it's early and I'll be waking him up for this permission and that seems even more selfish as I know he'll wake up feeling like shit and say OK anyway cause he's such a nice dude. So I'm really feeling like a turd and moping around totally torn between still being fired up to go do it....figure I can't do this to my friend. But I sus out the opposite opinion as well (oh yes, it must be done! She MUST be mine). It was like I had the devil on one shoulder and the angle on the other - totally at odds and raging their thoughts inside of my head. I knew what the right thing to do was and that was to give up the ascent and keep my friend. Even after deciding I was close to changing my mine and firing it off anyway. To help me resist the temptation to grab the new route solo I toss my new LaSportiva TC Pro Shoes down the stairs with my Cilocear rope solo pack in disgust. Grab the rest of the crap and head out before I change my mind. Figure that I'll just go solo up another route to the top (the only route) and knock some rocks off and put in some bolts on the front. Then Ujahn and I can come back and do it together. Rap anchor: It went well, wish I'd had my rock shoes instead of climbing with my approach shoes as the climbing I did do, but ces't le Vie. I soloed an existing line to the top of the pinnacle and rap bolt the front while kicking off the loose boulders and I got her done and back to the car @ 3 pm feeling like a pretty good guy who got the job done without stabbing his buddy in the back. BTW: I'm drinking grape juice - non-alcoholic right now. Really:-) __________________________________________________________ And the green bag was still there from the Tappett day 180' of so off the deck as of yesterday! I snapped a shot of me and it turned up in the picture background. See it there off to the right and lower? BTW, do either of you Tappetts remember my serious talk about making sure that rap points were short enough to be available to some dumb asshat with a short rope? And do you also remember showing me my core shot/little off the end 11M rope, that is, the core shot you dudes caused showed me *cough* cough* ? Well, I cut that end off at night and took the same exact rope out and said fucking rope didn't reach the next rap anchor from this picture. Imagine! It got interesting at the rope end having a 50-60 lb pack hanging off my harness while staring at the rap anchors 10' or so and the deck 100' below me: Mr. Asshat. LOL! Proving that talking is only half of communication: listening being the other *cough* cough*. Not that this would had mattered, but in trying to pare weight, I had stashed both my wallet and my cell phone in the car -ha ha! I'll have that rap point fixed soon though, no worries. Fortunately the sac is "GREEN" and folks can't bitchin' on "GREEN". LOL! Hasta la vista amigos

Well it's true that jb's got all the outrage, lack of tolerance to others viewpoints, and self-righteousness of any good Nazi. However, the Nazis were an entire organization while jb is just a single dick.

It didn't happen unless there are pictures dude!

Nope: You are a presumptious dick and a serial namecaller....period. Please don't take that the wrong way, but your opinion of yourself is obviously skewed! Of course, Fairweather, she could have just as been a Christian, which make you a presumptious dick as well......which probably just makes me a hater....hmmm. ______________________________________________________________ Breaking newz! Wait, checking another story does call her a "Devout Muslim" {The devout Muslim mother claimed Aminat came at her with a knife in her sewing room, where she prayed several times a day. } So the updated CC.com version of this story makes me misinformed...and a hater, Fairweather well read, and jb is still a dick. Todays analyst is a happy camper anyway. TA ta all. !

This is true, not just the hiking trail has been open the whole time. Didn't Shane P free a new 5.12 (old aid line) or something over this way this winter? Too far right to see but you can see other folks on routes: The March? parade pic above but closer up: Earlier that whatever that was, on a route. time for Ivan shoes:

Yup, sad as hell. Too bad. This isn't my last post and testament, but it will be someplace. ..Hey SOSOB whut time is it?!!!

Last Wednesday Alex. Now you're back in! and please, I think that (from all accounts and as you can see for yourself) this forum was set up exclusively for bitching only....bitching only...so if you could please stay on task sir.....

There are lots of them...they usually start out, "I was dropped by a GriGri in a gym....." invariably followed by the description of some dude taking his girlfriend out to belay him and how "I showed her how to do it....blah blah...." Actually, I did read of an instance where a sharp rock wedged into a grigri and chopped a rope in half. I don't know what to attribute that too. Belayer error? Rope failure? Bad luck?

OK, I just got a partner cancellation (whopping cough it sounded like:-) on tomorrows climb. It turns it into a casual romp to a serious endeavor if I can stick it out. Basically I want to go try and solo this pinnacle. That's the Dragons Spine Pinnacle up there taken from the side view. The other side and going up the front, and what would be the second pitch to the top, is badass and needs to be done. Myself and 2 other fine dudes had done the only route to the top just the other day via a a route which you can see in this pic. But I'm talking a different line. I think I'll take a shot at a solo. No support. No buddies. No phone reception. No helicopters. Just Me...and rock. That's it. ...and a harness...that's it. ....and my rock shoes...that's it. ...OK, a rope as well but that's it...OK, I'll bring some bolting shit. Looks easy from the armchair. Just climb up them loose knobs and be done with it. The fall to the dirt is @ 300+ feet. Ask Tappet #2 how that sound is as the Cilogear Big Wally took a 200 footer there and angered into the dirt yesterday which I heard from up the cliff through my ear muff protectors! If I don't come back, this would have been the way I would have wanted to go, that is, if I was like 100 and ten fucking years old and sucking my last rattling breath and not a young 56. Fortunately, going quick has it's rewards....not as good as a 2% cash back credit card, but it could be worse. Ask someone with terminal cancer. So todelloo all - remember that the Golden Rule isn't the Golden Shower, and you should really treat others as you would like to be treated. This means you too Pat- you dickhead. LOL! Seriously, lets top off a pint together sometime, without fisticuffs I mean. If we don't get to it first and I check out tomorrow, feel free to quaff one without me and then piss on my grave, I'll be cracking up if ya do. I'd gotten lucky on this one below earlier. I'd also put that TR in spray, where most of my good stuff wound up anyway. Hey Dwayner, we stuck in some rap bolts to get off of it for the 2nd ascent and so far it's seen 4 ascents. So you missed out, go back to whacking your pud online instead of climbing. I invited you. Pope too. It's a great route: The Salathe Highway. No bolts, pins or anything of substance for the FA. You'd have like it. Then we put in the bolts for a rap anchor. (insert sad face here....NOT!) Here's a great dude, highly recommended guy: Adam Winslow on the 2nd ascent which he kindly let me follow. That one up there is on the left in the lower pinnacle. I'm hoping to be on the one on the right by the fir tree mid-center there. As it involves carrying lots of shit, like 60-70 lbs, and dieing if I screw up, my inner puss may come out and it might not happen. In Witch case we can laugh together ha ha ha ha ha ha. Overview

"Because it's there" has been used already....hmmm, let me consider it. OK, here: "Because it must be done." Yes, thats it. "I enjoy it" was taken earlier of course:-)

I saw a bumpersticker on a large jacked up pickup truck with 2 redneck dudes inside which said (really it said this) "SHOW ME YOUR TITS". At first I though "How fucking gauche"....but then I figured, hey, what the hell, I'll play...I pulled my shirt up to my neck and when they didn't notice me I honked at em. They looked right over but surprisingly they did not appear pleased with all this, in fact the reverse, they looked annoyed or even pissed. Sadly, the light changed just as I started caressing my silky ...hot... bare skin for them boyz....... That was @ 5 years ago, now I'm heavier so these dayz I'd have more of a set to show them:-) 2 weeks ago.

You wish: the war will be over food instead, wherein you raging regressive neo-hitlerian conservatives try and finally take over the world... Sorry, I was actually trying to paraphrase JB there, but couldn't take it as far as he so easily does.

That's some great stuff! Congrats. Man, given the heat, it makes you wonder if that stuff on the Spider will even want to be sticking to the wall above Newton-Clark. You guys might keep an open mind on it, and bail off to either side if you have the slightest concerns. We did get some significantly nice late snowfall above 6-7 thousand feet, but it's July now you know:-)

Hmmm, maybe you need the Mel Gibson line wherein he rages at ex-girlfriend Oksana Grigorieva for falling asleep before they could go to the Jacuzzi to have sex. “I should’ve woken you up and said f----- blow me bitch!” he yells. “I should’ve f----- woken you up and said blow me! You would’ve liked that better, yeah? But you need the goddamn sleep!” This was apparently a point of contention, as he yells at another point, “I deserve to be blown first! Before the f----- Jacuzzi! OK, I’ll burn the goddamn house up, but blow me first! How dare you!??!”" They looked so happy in public too. Sobo, I think she's possibly available now. She apparently likes old guys. Seen here sucking in her gut.....

Awesome sounds like a mild description of your trip!

Meh, it probably won't stand out with all the other shit that gets posted in spray.

DUDE! Poooolise!!!! You aren't going to start in describing that measuring the movements weight contest now are you?

Yer obviously cornholefuzed again - I wasn't drillin rock, I was drillin yer mom.

I guess if you'd really wanted to know you would have shown up and helped now, wouldn't ya? Guess you'll have to climb Josephs route, "Lost Warriors" at 5.11C to go see for yourself as we were on the topout for it. But you were not there so I'm not saying, go figure it out on your own. BTW, you're welcome.

Your posts are clear evidence that you were dropped on your head as an infant.

I think we owe Joseph some thanks for organizing and analy double checking all the rigging and making the officials happy in advance. Try hauling 3 ropes, bolting crap and all the other gear needed, not just up the trail, but then down solo to the top of the SE Corner top out sometime if you want to check how that feels. I could have helped with the rigging, but seriously dislike all the organizational things. So I got off lucky and all I did was shovel. The job was larger than the pics look, they are seriously forshortened, I'm thinking it may have been close to 60-70 feet down in actuality, and not the 30' or so it appears in the pics. Kenny and Hanme were great on ground spotting, critical to the enterprise and a thankless task: thanks all! Jim showed up and with Kenny, tried to get on these routes to clean the mess, but I was home nappy nap by then and missed that action. Here's what I saw, this is close to directly above Young Warriors pitch 2/3 and the SE Corner tree: Scar Before: Scar After See Hanmi down there by the tracks? Hi Hanmi! Thanks so much!!!!!!! It looks, from the big root which was left of that huge mature Doug Fir that probably measured 3-4 foot diameter across and stood on the corner of the rock, that a winter storm came in sometime when it was closed to us climbers, and ripped out that entire tree and root system and any rock that was nearby or supporting the root ball. It was F*ing huge. Our task was to get any loose shit cleaned off so as to take any potential hits in a single day: and not see it dribbled out over the year where the railroad could see rockfall all year, possibly even potential seconds from when a train full of noxious material was speeding by - or worse to us but perhaps not as deadly overall, a climbing party killed. As much as we could, the rocks and blocks were eased over to the East Face and away from the tracks. A few smacked hard and broke apart with frag's heading to the tracks anyway despite our best efforts, once taking out a RR warning wire. As you can see in these pictures, we did the job. Thankless, dirty task such as it was. Fun as well. We left 2 loose blocks, one which would not move without prybars and the other single large unattached flake which we believed could have directly hit the tracks had we trundled it. We did not feel it would move, short of another winter storm, upon it's own volition - so we left it. As JH says above, there is a lot of loose stuff still on routes, so be wary as you run out there early season. Maybe Kenny can check in with how it went for Jim and himself. They were going to rap in and down to the base and try to get the rock on the routes off of it as they went. For myself, I'd like to see someone contributing to the knowledge base of science by trying to take on or initiate a scientific study that details climber/Peregrine interactions with a closer (to the scrape) climbing zone: rather than a full closure. So it basically is left open for climbing to study interactions. Just tossing that out to everyone for further thought. Edited for speling......

Nice of you to display the brilliance and self-centered whiteness which claims that Native Americans are not discriminated against. They'll be happy to hear that they are getting a fair shake in the white mans court room, finally. Bigot. http://www.vpc.org/studies/blackhomicide10.pdf As far as the black thing goes, no one has explained why their murder rates are so much higher than whites. Is that that we prosecute them but not white people? No.

I quit calling it Gothic, as no one else was calling it that. I still call it Cathedral forgetting the new name which I actually like better. I saw JT the other day, he was all ecstatic on "Coethedral". Cracks me up. I was out there yesterday with 2 fine gentlemen and they started looking at and talking about the upper pitches to your route: I explained that you had both claimed the FA of that route, and that although I'd told you then that it was first come first served please stay off it so you can do it:-) Almost in harmony their eyes started drifting up the hill to the Steeple. Thanks for the heads up on the dates, are you up in Washington doing real climbing or is that all PDX? I'll PM you some ideas but of course you can climb and camp there. Lets coordinate it so no one gets killed. ps, update: the Dragons Spine top was ticked for the first time yesterday and the Salathe Highway also saw it's 4th ascent with 2 new #2 cam placements dug out and discovered. I missed the Highway climb, having rapped down and hiked out. I was back in the car nappy nap about then. Got a shot or 2 with the camera I can post later. I've finished digging the driveway here and at some point the procrastination needs to end here and I need to go pour some cement so Jasmine is happy when she gets back....shit, some rest day, 18 60lb sacs of cement to mix and put down. Send me the dates you are here, looking forward to it.

Good on you for resisting the temptation and not draining it in the sink when you didn't see a urinal! 5 or 6 beers in ya could have been a different story altogether. Whew! Nice trick they have going there. This is as disconcerting as the first time trying a unisex bathroom. This is not where the sign on the door has both a picture of a man and a woman and whomever gets there gets to lock the door behind them. No, I'm talking a larger bathroom which multiple stalls and no door lock. It doesn't matter what sex you are, this is the bathroom to be shared equally by all, at the same time. I use to live in a large older complex downtown where this was policy. The disconcerting feeling of dropping a major deuce and a half: that is, one which is undoubtedly already breaking the waterline and you know will need 2 perhaps 3 flushes (and the accompanying aroma and loud noises) as you watch a pretty pair of hot looking ankles over feet wearing some sweet lookin black F*-me pumps click by under the stall door and head next to you is not to be fully given justice by mere words. Needless to say, once you've used one a few times you get use to it pretty quick and it feels as normal as men and women only bathrooms. Sort of like going to nude beaches. Once you do it it quickly seems normal.

...uhhh, sure....and Palestine has excepted the country of Israel and the Lion has laid down with the Lamb too....