snoboy

This is too freaky - just ask Pandora...

Blah Blah Blah...

I like floating away Hello Kitty in the end. I also am Chris C...

Crosspost from the acces forum. Please keeps comments there - thanks.

I drove down from Whistler the other day and noticed a few things. 1) They have begun roadwork right in front of Rogues Gallery. This will likely make for access issues. 2) There was a sign on the highway that said "All climbs in this location closed until Sept 30." It was posted above the access to Star Chek, but common sense would dictate that it also applies to the other climbs that are nearby, but accessed from the lower trail. There may be other signs to that effect that I did not see. 3) Paving is moving along quickly in the canyon proper. Hopefully this means that access to Chek and to the Rehabs will soon be freed up.

1) Read this thread. 2) I have the MEC Ferrata "Tights" and like them, They are worn for skiing, work, MTB, and climbing/moutaineering. They won't wear out, and they are cheap 3) No experience here 4) I like my wiregates. You won't like them if you have really small fingers. 5-7) Try other peoples's gear first to find out what you like, and read lots of threads in the Gear Critic Forum.

I generally like registers, I don't always sign them, sometimes I do. I do think they should be unobtrusive though; you should have to look for them. Hut logs are usually more better reading, and I like those too.

I like Super Chalk.

no, the pack is clean, no side straps, read the post two above yours. I have overnighted with this pack, and as long as you go light, it is very comfortable. I have figures out 2 wicked ways to carry skis though.

In Canada: That would be the 11th...

Vote!

Shouldn't this be in the "I'm changing my vote thread," somehow it seems related??

yup

I'd say you start with the whole story behind that...

There's a couple of query threads on that very line, and a couple recent Trip Reports. Lots of recent info there.

You better watch what you say buddy, you are treading awful close to the bannination line for spouting blasphemy like that in the *freshiezone*. Just kidding. (I think )

What's the best excuse that you have used to get out of work to go climbing/skiing/biking/having fun??

I guess you got what you need, but the memory card used for digicams, and an accompanying card reader could be a good, and very small, option. The card would be small, the card reader is a bit bigger, but many people and computers already have them these days, so depending on your situation...

In the last example cited on cj's link, the force on the anchor (ceiling) would be 125 lbs so yes, it would be higher, but it is a sum, not a multilple. Maybe the easiest way to explain this is that each rope that goes to the load (to a moving point) shares an equal portion of the load. In a z-drag, there are three ropes sharing the load - one goes to the rescuer's hand, the other two go to the ratchet/pulley on the anchor. The total load is divided equally between those three, so the anchor holds only 2/3 of the load while the rescuer is hauling. When the rescuer releases his pull, the load is fully on the ratchet, and the anchor supports 100% of the climber's weight. Of course these loads are theoretical, and will be increased by friction. Note in the first example on cj's link, that the anchor is actually taking 200lbs! That would be the classic redirected belay setup on a multipitch. In the second one it is taking 150... In each case the pulley to the right does nothing except change the direction of pull, and increase the load on the anchor...

Hell, if Danny boy can get to the top in 2-1/2, then you sorry sacks of s%^& should be able to get to Muir in less than 4. I heard they are doing a major refit of the Muir Hut this summer.

^Bump^ and Grind...

Blatant plug for carolyn who said:

Nahh, I suck, grover obviously 0wnz me.

The supersecret moderator's view of who's online says it's a bunch of Yahoo 'bots...